Durable Rims for Road Wheels - Recommendations?



S

Steve Sr.

Guest
I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
wheels with today?

BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
rough but not too many potholes to hit.


Thanks,

Steve
 
Steve Sr. said:
I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
wheels with today?

BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
rough but not too many potholes to hit.


Thanks,

Steve
Velocity Aerohead with Aerohead OC in rear makes a good combination for someone your weight.
I suggest Sapim Laser 14/17 DB spokes front and left rear + Sapim Race 14/15 DB spokes right rear.
I just built another pair that way and they work very well.
 
In article <[email protected]>,
Steve Sr. <[email protected]> wrote:

> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>
> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
> wheels with today?


Actually newer clincher rims that manufacturers present as
their best rims are heavier than the best rims available
20-25 years ago. Those older clincher rims were light,
fully socketed, box section, un-anodized, not welded, not
`machined', and inexpensive. Clincher rims are one bicycle
part that are in every regard worse than they used to be.

As for a recommendation, see if you can find some Torelli
Master rims.

--
Michael Press
 
Michael Press wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Steve Sr. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
>> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
>> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>>
>> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
>> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
>> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
>> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
>> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
>> wheels with today?

>
> Actually newer clincher rims that manufacturers present as
> their best rims are heavier than the best rims available
> 20-25 years ago. Those older clincher rims were light,
> fully socketed, box section, un-anodized, not welded, not
> `machined', and inexpensive.


and many modern rims are lighter, higher profile and therefore stiffer,
available with double eyelets just like before, box section just like
before, anodized so they don't corrode for those of us that ride when
the sun's not shining, welded for strength and consistency and balance,
machined for more consistent braking performance and at $65 for an open
pro, inexpensive. the double-eyeleted replacement rims for my mavic
cosmos wheels were $60 the /pair/. how much were you paying for an ma2
20 years ago and what's that worth in todays money?

> Clincher rims are one bicycle
> part that are in every regard worse than they used to be.


untrue, by any logical metric.

>
> As for a recommendation, see if you can find some Torelli
> Master rims.
>
 
Steve Sr. wrote:
> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>
> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
> wheels with today?
>
> BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
> rough but not too many potholes to hit.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>

how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
- if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
fine - your measly #160 is no problem.
 
"Steve Sr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>
> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
> wheels with today?
>
> BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
> rough but not too many potholes to hit.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>




Velocity rims and Sapim spokes.
http://www.velocityusa.com/
http://www.sapim.be/

Built a pair with the Deep-Vs and Velocity hubs and laced each with 36
Lasers. Like 'em.

mC
 
daveornee wrote:
> Steve Sr. Wrote:
> > I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
> > suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
> > light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
> >
> > While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
> > suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
> > remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
> > more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
> > light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
> > wheels with today?
> >
> > BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
> > rough but not too many potholes to hit.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Steve


Velocity Fusion or Aerohead
Mavic OpenPro of CXP-ss
DT-1.1

Fusion or CXP-33 fronts-28 2 cross, Rev spkes. All rears, 14/15/3cross
brass. DT, Aerohead and OpenPro front 32 3cross, Rev spokes...

Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.
> Velocity Aerohead with Aerohead OC in rear makes a good combination for
> someone your weight.
> I suggest Sapim Laser 14/17 DB spokes front and left rear + Sapim Race
> 14/15 DB spokes right rear.
> I just built another pair that way and they work very well.
>
>
> --
> daveornee
 
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:

> Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.


thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
rim and hub combo).

D'ohBoy
 
D'ohBoy wrote:
> Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>
>> Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

>
> thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
> rim and hub combo).
>
> D'ohBoy
>


$50 or more per wheel!?! Are they that much better than DT?


Robin Hubert
 
While you guys are on the topic of rims, what about open pros versus
MA3? MA3 is cheaper, heavier, single eyelet, but the extrusion has 3
boxed sections and I believe I saw it was listed as suitable for use as
a touring rim? So would this be a stronger rim than open pro?

thanks,
Ernie
D'ohBoy wrote:
> Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>
> > Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

>
> thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
> rim and hub combo).
>
> D'ohBoy
 
Ernie wrote:
> While you guys are on the topic of rims, what about open pros versus
> MA3? MA3 is cheaper, heavier, single eyelet, but the extrusion has 3
> boxed sections and I believe I saw it was listed as suitable for use as
> a touring rim? So would this be a stronger rim than open pro?


You definitely don't want an MA3, but I doubt you'd find any. They were
replaced with the Open Sport which is a bit heavier, but till single
eyelet. The MA3 had problems with spokes pulling through.

The Open Pro has sockets (a.k.a. double eyelets) and are lighter.

Art Harris
 
Steve Sr. wrote:
> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>
> ......
>

Sun CR-18, half the price of a Mavic Open Pro, at least as durable, and
a whopping 50 grams heavier (probably less than the Open Pro's
manufacturing tolerance).

Good luck,
Tom
 
On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Steve Sr. wrote:
>> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
>> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
>> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>>
>> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
>> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
>> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
>> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
>> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
>> wheels with today?
>>
>> BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
>> rough but not too many potholes to hit.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>>

>how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
>- if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
>wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
>and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
>hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
>fine - your measly #160 is no problem.


Jim,

So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
sealed pre-built wheels?

After all of the talk and answers I have been hearing was that if you
wanted wheels that met these criteria you pretty much had to have
them custom made out of select components.

The pre-built wheels seemed to be pretty much like the Real Design
Supersphere "boutique" wheels I currently have. Low spoke count and
inferior components at rip-off pricing. The only thing I have found
good about these wheels is the sealed bearings. The freehub isn't
sealed hardly at all and now at 4000 miles the rear rim has cracked.

I would definitely be interested in looking at complete pre-built
wheels if they meet the well sealed and durable 32 or 36 spoke
criteria. You specifically mentioned the Mavic Cosmos are there others
as well that I should be considering?

It looks like my other option would be to go with Phil hubs and work
up from there since no one has much regard for the sealing on
Shimano's road hubs and I don't think you can put a 10 speed road
cassette on an MTB freehub.

Thanks,

Steve
 
Steve Sr. wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Steve Sr. wrote:
>>> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
>>> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
>>> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
>>>
>>> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
>>> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
>>> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
>>> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
>>> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
>>> wheels with today?
>>>
>>> BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
>>> rough but not too many potholes to hit.
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>

>> how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
>> - if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
>> wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
>> and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
>> hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
>> fine - your measly #160 is no problem.

>
> Jim,
>
> So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
> sealed pre-built wheels?


that's been my experience, yes. i only bought some to see if all the
negative hoopla here on r.b.t was accurate, and have found my
pre-built's to be perfectly reliable. [with the exception of trashing
rims on a giant pothole at least - but that's not the wheel's fault.]

>
> After all of the talk and answers I have been hearing was that if you
> wanted wheels that met these criteria you pretty much had to have
> them custom made out of select components.


sure. a good quality hand built wheel can be a joy, but two factors
stand against them:

1. it's /very/ hard to find a good builder. i've tried about 6
different highly reputable builders here in the san francisco bay area
and only one has proven to me that he can build a wheel that stays true
under my weight. that's len at the bike nook in sf.

2. i was also surprised to discover that low spoke count wheels can be a
substantial benefit when riding in strong cross winds. i proved that to
myself again the other weekend. had a flat so quickly grabbed a spare
32 spoke wheel and used that on my commute across the golden gate
bridge. it was startling how much difference the extra spoke count made
to cross-wind handling. next day, back to normal, 24 count front on the
mavic cosmos, much less wrestling required. try that for yourself some
time.

>
> The pre-built wheels seemed to be pretty much like the Real Design
> Supersphere "boutique" wheels I currently have. Low spoke count and
> inferior components at rip-off pricing. The only thing I have found
> good about these wheels is the sealed bearings. The freehub isn't
> sealed hardly at all and now at 4000 miles the rear rim has cracked.


stick to major brands and make sure they haven't been "helped".

>
> I would definitely be interested in looking at complete pre-built
> wheels if they meet the well sealed and durable 32 or 36 spoke
> criteria. You specifically mentioned the Mavic Cosmos are there others
> as well that I should be considering?


i only mention the cosmos because i have direct personal experience of
them and their hub seal proficiency. i weigh #205 and have found them
to remain perfectly true straight out of the box. they do have the
lower spoke count, but if they work with my weight, they'll /definitely/
work with yours. i've also got a pair of shimano r540's which i've
found reliable, but i wouldn't' recommend them for wet stuff because
they just have standard shimano seals.

>
> It looks like my other option would be to go with Phil hubs


sure. while they'll be just dandy, you'll still be using j-bend spokes
and be dependent on finding a competent wheel builder.

> and work
> up from there since no one has much regard for the sealing on
> Shimano's road hubs and I don't think you can put a 10 speed road
> cassette on an MTB freehub.


i'm pretty sure that if they're both shimano, you can. the freehub
bodies are identical afaik. it's only the 10-speed d/a that can't take
the 9-speed cassette. check sheldon's web site - i think he's got a
cross-compatibility chart.

>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
 
"Steve Sr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
> sealed pre-built wheels?
>


I doubt it. Possible exception: Campagnolo wheels. Big $$ though.

Modern rims are generally poor, as anodizing, machining, seam welding and
the lack of nipple sockets are all major problems. Oh, and the current
generation rims weigh a ton.

I find older rims such as MA2s, Sun M14s and Ambrosio Elites to be clearly
superior.

I get my rims from the basements of older bike shops. I've never paid more
than $35 for a rim. Actually, I rarely pay this for an entire wheel.

Mate the older rims with Shimano cassette hubs, double-butted stainless
spokes, and most importantly a good wheelbuilder, and you have the parts for
a perfect set of wheels.
 
On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:20:15 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
wrote:

[snip]

>2. i was also surprised to discover that low spoke count wheels can be a
>substantial benefit when riding in strong cross winds. i proved that to
>myself again the other weekend. had a flat so quickly grabbed a spare
>32 spoke wheel and used that on my commute across the golden gate
>bridge. it was startling how much difference the extra spoke count made
>to cross-wind handling. next day, back to normal, 24 count front on the
>mavic cosmos, much less wrestling required. try that for yourself some
>time.


[snip]

Dear Jim,

My almost flat, non-aero front rim (not even box section) and 700c x
26 front tire and rim are about 38mm thick.

Most posters would have thicker tire and rim combinations.

At a circumference of about 2100mm, that's 38 x 2100 = 79,800 mm^2 of
tire and rim, as viewed by a side wind.

With about 290mm of my 36 straight 2mm spokes exposed, that's 36 x 290
x 2 = 20,880 mm^2.

Some crude theoretical calculations:

290mm 2mm 38mm 36 32 28 24
spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
36 20,880 79,800 100,680 100.0% 102.4% 104.8% 107.4%
32 18,560 79,800 98,360 97.7% 100.0% 102.4% 105.0%
28 16,240 79,800 96,040 95.4% 97.6% 100.0% 102.5%
24 13,920 79,800 93,720 93.1% 95.3% 97.6% 100.0%

So on my front wheel, it looks as if the simple sideways area changes
only about 5% between 32 and 24 spokes.

My wheel, of course, maximizes this difference with thick 2.0mm
straight spokes and thin rim+tire combination.

With thinner spokes and a thicker box-section or even aero rim, the
effect on area of a spoke count reduction from 32 to 24 would be even
smaller.

With straight 1.8mm spokes (a rough approximation of the kind of thin,
butted spokes often mentioned) and a rim+tire thickness of about 45mm
for a modest box-section with mild aero profile, reducing the exposed
spoke-length to 283mm (like a wheel hanging in my garage) . . .

2100 x 45 = 94,500 mm^2 rim+tire side-view area

36 x 1.8 x 283 = 18,338 mm^2 spoke area

283mm 1.8mm 45mm 36 32 28 24
spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
36 18,338 94,500 112,838 100.0% 101.8% 103.7% 105.7%
32 16,301 94,500 110,801 98.2% 100.0% 101.9% 103.8%
28 14,263 94,500 108,763 96.4% 98.2% 100.0% 101.9%
24 12,226 94,500 106,726 94.6% 96.3% 98.1% 100.0%

This suggests that most posters would see a 3.7% drop in side-view
front wheel+rim+spoke area if they dropped from 32 to 24 spokes (or
gain 3.8% if they added 8 spokes to a 24-spoke wheel).

Aerodynamics is a tricky matter, so raw side area may somehow be
deceptive

But the 8-spoke count reduction sounds like less than a 3% change.

Moving from one kind of rim to another in my poorly stocked garage can
reduce side area from 94,500 mm^2 to 79,800 mm^2, which is 8.4%.
almost three times as much.

The winds on the Golden Gate vary more than that much every day. They
also blow sideways against the handlebars, fork legs, levers, hands,
and arms of the rider.

So I'm curious what the spoke thicknesses and exposed lengths are on
the two wheels that you rode, as well as how thick the tire plus rim
is on each wheel.

The weight would be interesting, too. At speed, a heavier tire and
wheel have more angular momentum and should be more stable in gusting
winds.

Maybe someone will have a link to wind tunnel tests, or an explanation
of how the spokes have a much greater effect than would be expected.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
Steve Sr. wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Steve Sr. wrote:
> >> I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
> >> suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
> >> light as possible without sacrificing the durability.
> >>
> >> While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
> >> suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
> >> remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
> >> more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
> >> light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
> >> wheels with today?
> >>
> >> BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
> >> rough but not too many potholes to hit.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Steve
> >>

> >how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
> >- if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
> >wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
> >and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
> >hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
> >fine - your measly #160 is no problem.

>
> Jim,
>
> So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
> sealed pre-built wheels?
>
> After all of the talk and answers I have been hearing was that if you
> wanted wheels that met these criteria you pretty much had to have
> them custom made out of select components.
>
> The pre-built wheels seemed to be pretty much like the Real Design
> Supersphere "boutique" wheels I currently have. Low spoke count and
> inferior components at rip-off pricing. The only thing I have found
> good about these wheels is the sealed bearings. The freehub isn't
> sealed hardly at all and now at 4000 miles the rear rim has cracked.
>
> I would definitely be interested in looking at complete pre-built
> wheels if they meet the well sealed and durable 32 or 36 spoke
> criteria. You specifically mentioned the Mavic Cosmos are there others
> as well that I should be considering?
>
> It looks like my other option would be to go with Phil hubs and work
> up from there since no one has much regard for the sealing on
> Shimano's road hubs and I don't think you can put a 10 speed road
> cassette on an MTB freehub.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve


I've had good luck with my custom wheels that were built by Colorado
Cyclist. They've got Ultegra hubs, 36 14ga spokes laced in a cross-3
pattern, and Mavic CXP-33 rims. I haven't had to lay a spoke wrench on
them in over three years, including some rough gravel road riding. I'm
not sure how well sealed they are, though. I haven't done much rain
riding with them.

Smokey
 
D'ohBoy wrote:
> Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
>
> > Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

>
> thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
> rim and hub combo).
>
> D'ohBoy


BUT the supplier of Sapim in the US-KHS(not the MTB KHS) does not have
all lengths. If I'm going to stock up on sapim spokes, to replace the
5000 or so I have in DT, I'll want to pay wholesale, thanks.
 
Dave Mayer wrote:
> "Steve Sr." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
>> sealed pre-built wheels?
>>

>
> I doubt it. Possible exception: Campagnolo wheels. Big $$ though.
>
> Modern rims are generally poor, as anodizing, machining, seam welding and
> the lack of nipple sockets are all major problems. Oh, and the current
> generation rims weigh a ton.


anodizing protects, machining ensures consistency, welding ensures
strength, consistency and better weight distribution, and the eyelet
thing is a complete red herring. i'm surprised you didn't try to say
that machined rims are thinner:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/121453841/

>
> I find older rims such as MA2s, Sun M14s and Ambrosio Elites to be clearly
> superior.


er, weight of the ma2 vs. open pro please?

>
> I get my rims from the basements of older bike shops. I've never paid more
> than $35 for a rim. Actually, I rarely pay this for an entire wheel.
>
> Mate the older rims with Shimano cassette hubs, double-butted stainless
> spokes, and most importantly a good wheelbuilder, and you have the parts for
> a perfect set of wheels.
>
>
 
[email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:20:15 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
>> 2. i was also surprised to discover that low spoke count wheels can be a
>> substantial benefit when riding in strong cross winds. i proved that to
>> myself again the other weekend. had a flat so quickly grabbed a spare
>> 32 spoke wheel and used that on my commute across the golden gate
>> bridge. it was startling how much difference the extra spoke count made
>> to cross-wind handling. next day, back to normal, 24 count front on the
>> mavic cosmos, much less wrestling required. try that for yourself some
>> time.

>
> [snip]
>
> Dear Jim,
>
> My almost flat, non-aero front rim (not even box section) and 700c x
> 26 front tire and rim are about 38mm thick.
>
> Most posters would have thicker tire and rim combinations.
>
> At a circumference of about 2100mm, that's 38 x 2100 = 79,800 mm^2 of
> tire and rim, as viewed by a side wind.
>
> With about 290mm of my 36 straight 2mm spokes exposed, that's 36 x 290
> x 2 = 20,880 mm^2.
>
> Some crude theoretical calculations:
>
> 290mm 2mm 38mm 36 32 28 24
> spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
> count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
> ----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
> 36 20,880 79,800 100,680 100.0% 102.4% 104.8% 107.4%
> 32 18,560 79,800 98,360 97.7% 100.0% 102.4% 105.0%
> 28 16,240 79,800 96,040 95.4% 97.6% 100.0% 102.5%
> 24 13,920 79,800 93,720 93.1% 95.3% 97.6% 100.0%
>
> So on my front wheel, it looks as if the simple sideways area changes
> only about 5% between 32 and 24 spokes.
>
> My wheel, of course, maximizes this difference with thick 2.0mm
> straight spokes and thin rim+tire combination.
>
> With thinner spokes and a thicker box-section or even aero rim, the
> effect on area of a spoke count reduction from 32 to 24 would be even
> smaller.
>
> With straight 1.8mm spokes (a rough approximation of the kind of thin,
> butted spokes often mentioned) and a rim+tire thickness of about 45mm
> for a modest box-section with mild aero profile, reducing the exposed
> spoke-length to 283mm (like a wheel hanging in my garage) . . .
>
> 2100 x 45 = 94,500 mm^2 rim+tire side-view area
>
> 36 x 1.8 x 283 = 18,338 mm^2 spoke area
>
> 283mm 1.8mm 45mm 36 32 28 24
> spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
> count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
> ----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
> 36 18,338 94,500 112,838 100.0% 101.8% 103.7% 105.7%
> 32 16,301 94,500 110,801 98.2% 100.0% 101.9% 103.8%
> 28 14,263 94,500 108,763 96.4% 98.2% 100.0% 101.9%
> 24 12,226 94,500 106,726 94.6% 96.3% 98.1% 100.0%
>
> This suggests that most posters would see a 3.7% drop in side-view
> front wheel+rim+spoke area if they dropped from 32 to 24 spokes (or
> gain 3.8% if they added 8 spokes to a 24-spoke wheel).
>
> Aerodynamics is a tricky matter, so raw side area may somehow be
> deceptive
>
> But the 8-spoke count reduction sounds like less than a 3% change.
>
> Moving from one kind of rim to another in my poorly stocked garage can
> reduce side area from 94,500 mm^2 to 79,800 mm^2, which is 8.4%.
> almost three times as much.
>
> The winds on the Golden Gate vary more than that much every day. They
> also blow sideways against the handlebars, fork legs, levers, hands,
> and arms of the rider.
>
> So I'm curious what the spoke thicknesses and exposed lengths are on
> the two wheels that you rode, as well as how thick the tire plus rim
> is on each wheel.
>
> The weight would be interesting, too. At speed, a heavier tire and
> wheel have more angular momentum and should be more stable in gusting
> winds.
>
> Maybe someone will have a link to wind tunnel tests, or an explanation
> of how the spokes have a much greater effect than would be expected.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Carl Fogel


thanks carl. believe me, the most surprised person on this subject is
me. when i first compared these wheels, i took them both [same rim
profile and tires] and swapped back and forth on the same day same test
route. no doubt about it - the 24-spoker is /much/ less of a wrestle.
the comparison is that when i ride the 32, i have to be alert to both
sudden steering changes as well as balance due to wind on my body,
particularly rounding the northern pylon, with steering being the
dominant concern. on the 24, the dominant issue is balance, not
steering. if you find yourself in sf, i'll loan you the two wheels so
you can try for yourself. oh, and it's also noticeable when riding with
others. two people same place, same wind gust, you can see one deviate
much more than the other.
 

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