Ebay bike opinion sought

[killermike]

Hi all

I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate the
opinion of the group.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=350048018053&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=022

or

http://tinyurl.com/66dhxm

The bike is described as CLAUD BUTLER, CLASSIC TOURER, MAROON/PLUM FRAME.
The description says that the bike is 15 years old.

I've been cycling since 2005 and I'm interested in commuting/shopping and
cycle touring. At the moment, my mountain bike (slick tires and rear rack)
is off the road and I'm using an old shopping bike to get around. I suspect
that if I got a bike like the one in the auction, I'd have to either get
something else for riding in town or get my mountain bike repaired.

The bike is for sale in the area in which I live, so I presume that I would
be able to inspect it. On such an inspection the main thing that I'd be
looking at is the wear and tear on the drive train.

If I had to pay the buy it now price of £99, it would put me about 50 pounds
short of some of the cheapest brand new hybrid bicycles. Although, it might
go for less than that. I also like the idea of riding around on something
that doesn't look too shiny and therefore valuable. I should add that I
don't have a car so I have to buy something within cycling distance of
home.

What would other people do in my position - buy a new but cheap tourer or a
second hand older model?
--
http://www.unmusic.co.uk - about me, writing, music, gender, geek sitcom
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/amhs/ - alt.music.home-studio

 

[Dan Gregory]

killermike wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate the
> opinion of the group.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=350048018053&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=022
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/66dhxm
>
> The bike is described as CLAUD BUTLER, CLASSIC TOURER, MAROON/PLUM FRAME.
> The description says that the bike is 15 years old.
>
> I've been cycling since 2005 and I'm interested in commuting/shopping and
> cycle touring. At the moment, my mountain bike (slick tires and rear rack)
> is off the road and I'm using an old shopping bike to get around. I suspect
> that if I got a bike like the one in the auction, I'd have to either get
> something else for riding in town or get my mountain bike repaired.
>
> The bike is for sale in the area in which I live, so I presume that I would
> be able to inspect it. On such an inspection the main thing that I'd be
> looking at is the wear and tear on the drive train.
>
> If I had to pay the buy it now price of £99, it would put me about 50 pounds
> short of some of the cheapest brand new hybrid bicycles. Although, it might
> go for less than that. I also like the idea of riding around on something
> that doesn't look too shiny and therefore valuable. I should add that I
> don't have a car so I have to buy something within cycling distance of
> home.
>
> What would other people do in my position - buy a new but cheap tourer or a
> second hand older model?
Looks like a bargain to me for the type of riding you want to do.

 

[Pete Biggs]

killermike wrote:
....
> http://tinyurl.com/66dhxm
>
> The bike is described as CLAUD BUTLER, CLASSIC TOURER, MAROON/PLUM
> FRAME. The description says that the bike is 15 years old.
>
> I've been cycling since 2005 and I'm interested in commuting/shopping
> and cycle touring. At the moment, my mountain bike (slick tires and
> rear rack) is off the road and I'm using an old shopping bike to get
> around. I suspect that if I got a bike like the one in the auction,
> I'd have to either get something else for riding in town or get my
> mountain bike repaired.

The old tourer would be OK for getting around town. Userfully, it wouldn't
be too attractive to theives.

> The bike is for sale in the area in which I live, so I presume that I
> would be able to inspect it. On such an inspection the main thing
> that I'd be looking at is the wear and tear on the drive train.

The main thing I'd be looking at is the wheels. Check they're sound and
also that you're happy with the type of freewheel or cassette and the number
of sprockets, bearing in mind the availability (or not) of spares.

The BIN price looks OK considering that quite a few accessories are
included. The question is, though, whether you want to pay more for
something more modern: with more powerful brakes as well as more gears or
lower bottom gears. (Looks like single-pivot calipers on that bike).

> If I had to pay the buy it now price of £99, it would put me about 50
> pounds short of some of the cheapest brand new hybrid bicycles.
> Although, it might go for less than that. I also like the idea of
> riding around on something that doesn't look too shiny and therefore
> valuable. I should add that I don't have a car so I have to buy
> something within cycling distance of home.
>
> What would other people do in my position - buy a new but cheap
> tourer or a second hand older model?

I would consider both options, but not necessarily second-hand bikes quite
as old as this one if I was going to use it for long rides or touring (as
well as commuting and shopping).

~PB

 

[Nigel Cliffe]

killermike wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate
> the opinion of the group.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=350048018053&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=022
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/66dhxm
>
> The bike is described as CLAUD BUTLER, CLASSIC TOURER, MAROON/PLUM
> FRAME. The description says that the bike is 15 years old.

No idea where frame made or quality, being 1993, could be anything. Claud
Butler made some nice frames and some gas-pipe frames. If its one of their
nicer frames, may be worth getting.

Brake levers are old suicide type. So you probably want to change them.
Brakes are old single pivot, not as effective as more modern brakes. A cheap
set of modern brakes might be a good idea.

Gears are downtube, I guess friction shifting. Rear block will be screw-on.
Spare blocks still available, though cog choice is limited. If it is
friction shifting, a 7 speed screw-on block will fit as well as the existing
6 speed. Front rings probably 42/52 double.

Wheel size might be 27in, though by 1993 I would be expecting 700c. I might
avoid if its 27in, I have to special order tyres for 27in, whereas 700c is
available in any shop. (You can usually put 700c wheels in a 27in frame,
but its more expense).

Think it might have horizontal drop-outs from the picture, so the "fixed"
crowd will probably take the frame off you if it turns out bad (assuming
frame is not the worst gas-pipe type!).


> I've been cycling since 2005 and I'm interested in commuting/shopping
> and cycle touring. At the moment, my mountain bike (slick tires and
> rear rack) is off the road and I'm using an old shopping bike to get
> around. I suspect that if I got a bike like the one in the auction,
> I'd have to either get something else for riding in town or get my
> mountain bike repaired.

Its probably fine for town (with the brakes updated); its the sort of bike I
use everyday (though the bits are probably posher on mine).


> If I had to pay the buy it now price of £99, it would put me about 50
> pounds short of some of the cheapest brand new hybrid bicycles.

Although a decent new cheap bike might be nearer to £250 with half-decent
components.

> Although, it might go for less than that. I also like the idea of
> riding around on something that doesn't look too shiny and therefore
> valuable. I should add that I don't have a car so I have to buy
> something within cycling distance of home.



- Nigel

--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

 

[Just zis Guy, you know?]

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 15:28:40 +0100, killermike
<none@see_website.sig> said in <[email protected]>:

>If I had to pay the buy it now price of £99, it would put me about 50 pounds
>short of some of the cheapest brand new hybrid bicycles. Although, it might
>go for less than that. I also like the idea of riding around on something
>that doesn't look too shiny and therefore valuable. I should add that I
>don't have a car so I have to buy something within cycling distance of
>home.

Tough call. I have an old Butler which I love, but the tubes are
very narrow and it's too flexible to carry much load. Great audax /
communing bike, not much cop for anything else. The wheels on that
bike are Imperial, it will be difficult to source tyres.

In your position I'd spend £200 or so on a modern hybrid, budget
permitting. It'll probably be stiffer, it will have cassette
gearing not a screw-on freehub, it will have indexed gears, which
that bike probably does not, and the brakes will be more effective.

£200 these days buys you a surprisingly good bike. And of course
with a new bike you get some kind of warranty.

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

 

[Pete Biggs]

Nigel Cliffe wrote:

> Brake levers are old suicide type. So you probably want to change
> them.

The extension levers could be removed, leaving just the main levers.

> Wheel size might be 27in, though by 1993 I would be expecting 700c. I
> might avoid if its 27in, I have to special order tyres for 27in,
> whereas 700c is available in any shop. (You can usually put 700c
> wheels in a 27in frame, but its more expense).

Some decent-enough 27" tyres are available online - so that shouldn't be a
show-stopper, though I agree 700c is preferable.

~PB

 

[killermike]

Pete Biggs wrote:

>> Wheel size might be 27in, though by 1993 I would be expecting 700c. I
>> might avoid if its 27in, I have to special order tyres for 27in,
>> whereas 700c is available in any shop. (You can usually put 700c
>> wheels in a 27in frame, but its more expense).
>
> Some decent-enough 27" tyres are available online - so that shouldn't be a
> show-stopper, though I agree 700c is preferable.

Someone has just asked on the site and the reply was

"Hello there, tyres are 28" x 1 5/8" x 1 1/8", thanks for your interest,
regards Lynne."

--
http://www.unmusic.co.uk - about me, writing, music, gender, geek sitcom
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/amhs/ - alt.music.home-studio

 

[killermike]

Nigel Cliffe wrote:

> Gears are downtube, I guess friction shifting. Rear block will be
> screw-on. Spare blocks still available, though cog choice is limited. If
> it is friction shifting, a 7 speed screw-on block will fit as well as the
> existing
> 6 speed. Front rings probably 42/52 double.

I didn't notice that on the photos. TBH, that puts me off a bit. I don't
know if I'd like taking my hand off the handlebars in order change gear.

--
http://www.unmusic.co.uk - about me, writing, music, gender, geek sitcom
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/amhs/ - alt.music.home-studio

 

[Pete Biggs]

killermike wrote:

> Someone has just asked on the site and the reply was
>
> "Hello there, tyres are 28" x 1 5/8" x 1 1/8", thanks for your
> interest, regards Lynne."

Good. That size is also known as 700c (for the diameter). Confusingly, and
ludicrously, they are smaller than the "27 inch" ones. We can blame the
French and Germans.

~PB

 

[Dan Gregory]

killermike wrote:

> I didn't notice that on the photos. TBH, that puts me off a bit. I don't
> know if I'd like taking my hand off the handlebars in order change gear.

I managed for over forty years before I got ergolevers. Not a problem.

 

[Nick]

Dan Gregory wrote:
> killermike wrote:
>
>> I didn't notice that on the photos. TBH, that puts me off a bit. I don't
>> know if I'd like taking my hand off the handlebars in order change gear.
>
> I managed for over forty years before I got ergolevers. Not a problem.

You may have done but sliced bread has nothing on brake lever shifters.

 

[Pete Biggs]

Dan Gregory wrote:
> killermike wrote:
>
>> I didn't notice that on the photos. TBH, that puts me off a bit. I
>> don't know if I'd like taking my hand off the handlebars in order
>> change gear.
>
> I managed for over forty years before I got ergolevers. Not a problem.

Ahbut would you want to go back to them now?

~PB

 

[David Damerell]

Quoting killermike <none@see_website.sig>:
>Nigel Cliffe wrote:
>>Gears are downtube, I guess friction shifting.
>I didn't notice that on the photos. TBH, that puts me off a bit. I don't
>know if I'd like taking my hand off the handlebars in order change gear.

Rivendell (www.rivbike.com) and maybe even people in this country sell
bar-end pods to fit downtube shifters into. You'd also need cable stops on
the downtube.
--
David Damerell <[email protected]> flcl?
Today is Friday, April.

 

[Rob Morley]

In article <[email protected]>, Nigel Cliffe
[email protected] says...
> killermike wrote:
> > Hi all
> >
> > I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate
> > the opinion of the group.
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....m=350048018053&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=022
> >
> > or
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/66dhxm
> >
> > The bike is described as CLAUD BUTLER, CLASSIC TOURER, MAROON/PLUM
> > FRAME. The description says that the bike is 15 years old.
>
> No idea where frame made or quality, being 1993, could be anything. Claud
> Butler made some nice frames and some gas-pipe frames. If its one of their
> nicer frames, may be worth getting.

That's definitely a Reynolds sticker between the shifters, but I'm
guessing only 500/501. The bike seems comparable to the Dawes Horizon
of that periopd.
>
> Brake levers are old suicide type. So you probably want to change them.

You can just remove the auxiliary levers, you don;t have to replace the
whole lot.

> Brakes are old single pivot, not as effective as more modern brakes. A cheap
> set of modern brakes might be a good idea.

We used to get by fine with sidepulls, in fact I still use them -
they're a heavier action than dual-pivot or cantilevers, and the
modulation isn't as good, but they still stop you. Just stick some
decent blocks in them.
>
> Gears are downtube, I guess friction shifting.

I'd guess indexed, something like Exage.

> Rear block will be screw-on.

I wouldn't count on it, but it's not unlikely.

> Spare blocks still available, though cog choice is limited. If it is
> friction shifting, a 7 speed screw-on block will fit as well as the existing
> 6 speed. Front rings probably 42/52 double.

Could be 38/50 or similar - hard to tell from the picture.
>
> Wheel size might be 27in, though by 1993 I would be expecting 700c.

None of the better (i.e. not chesp ****) manufacturers was still using
27" in the early nineties.

 

[Roger Merriman]

Nick <[email protected]> wrote:

> Dan Gregory wrote:
> > killermike wrote:
> >
> >> I didn't notice that on the photos. TBH, that puts me off a bit. I don't
> >> know if I'd like taking my hand off the handlebars in order change gear.
> >
> > I managed for over forty years before I got ergolevers. Not a problem.
>
> You may have done but sliced bread has nothing on brake lever shifters.

heh yes i have a old racer with fricton down tube shifters and they are
quite a culture shock!

the bike it's self goes well, but the gears do take some nursing.

roger
--
www.rogermerriman.com

 

[Roger Merriman]

Rob Morley <[email protected]> wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>, Nigel Cliffe
> [email protected] says...
> > killermike wrote:
> > > Hi all
> > >
> > > I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate
> > > the opinion of the group.
> > >
> > >
> > >http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=350048018053&
> > >ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=022
> > >
> > > or
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/66dhxm
> > >
> > > The bike is described as CLAUD BUTLER, CLASSIC TOURER, MAROON/PLUM
> > > FRAME. The description says that the bike is 15 years old.
> >
> > No idea where frame made or quality, being 1993, could be anything. Claud
> > Butler made some nice frames and some gas-pipe frames. If its one of their
> > nicer frames, may be worth getting.
>
> That's definitely a Reynolds sticker between the shifters, but I'm
> guessing only 500/501. The bike seems comparable to the Dawes Horizon
> of that periopd.
> >
> > Brake levers are old suicide type. So you probably want to change them.
>
> You can just remove the auxiliary levers, you don;t have to replace the
> whole lot.
>
> > Brakes are old single pivot, not as effective as more modern brakes. A cheap
> > set of modern brakes might be a good idea.
>
> We used to get by fine with sidepulls, in fact I still use them -
> they're a heavier action than dual-pivot or cantilevers, and the
> modulation isn't as good, but they still stop you. Just stick some
> decent blocks in them.
> >
certinaly the old red bike i picked up from 1986 (or so the derailers
and such seem to susgest) while it's gears and what not are fairly
clunky, it's brakes are fine, at least for the size of the contact
patch!

snips

roger
--
www.rogermerriman.com

 

[killermike]

killermike wrote:

> Hi all
>
> I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate the
> opinion of the group.

Thanks for the help. I'm going to have a look at the bike today.

--
http://www.unmusic.co.uk - about me, writing, music, gender, geek sitcom
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/amhs/ - alt.music.home-studio

 

[David Damerell]

Quoting Roger Merriman <[email protected]>:
>certinaly the old red bike i picked up from 1986 (or so the derailers
>and such seem to susgest) while it's gears and what not are fairly
>clunky, it's brakes are fine, at least for the size of the contact
>patch!

Contact patch isn't so vital for brakes. Unlike tyres, where more rubber
on the road does make a difference in the way the obvious force/pressure
equations don't predict, if the brake block is smaller it does just get
pressed down with more pressure. Those fancy long Kool-Stops look good but
it's not clear they make any difference over the short ones (of course
they last longer, though...)
--
David Damerell <[email protected]> Kill the tomato!
Today is Saturday, April - a weekend.

 

[Roger Merriman]

David Damerell <[email protected]> wrote:

> Quoting Roger Merriman <[email protected]>:
> >certinaly the old red bike i picked up from 1986 (or so the derailers
> >and such seem to susgest) while it's gears and what not are fairly
> >clunky, it's brakes are fine, at least for the size of the contact
> >patch!
>
> Contact patch isn't so vital for brakes. Unlike tyres, where more rubber
> on the road does make a difference in the way the obvious force/pressure
> equations don't predict, if the brake block is smaller it does just get
> pressed down with more pressure. Those fancy long Kool-Stops look good but
> it's not clear they make any difference over the short ones (of course
> they last longer, though...)

ah sorry should of been clearer, at least in the wet, the old 80's
brakes have more than enought power for the thin tires! in the dry it's
not bad at all.

roger
--
www.rogermerriman.com

 

[killermike]

killermike wrote:

> killermike wrote:
>
>> Hi all
>>
>> I'm considering a bike that I've seen on Ebay and I would appreciate the
>> opinion of the group.
>
> Thanks for the help. I'm going to have a look at the bike today.
>

Yay! Purchased. Thanks again for all advice.

--
http://www.unmusic.co.uk - about me, writing, music, gender, geek sitcom
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/amhs/ - alt.music.home-studio