Enthusiastic student cyclist in need of help....

[Chazzz801]

Hello everyone.

I am a student who is not very well off! However I am a ultra enthusiastic road cyclist who wants to take things to the next level. I am looking to gradually upgrade my bike....piece by piece, making it easier to pay for. At the moment I am riding a Giant OCR 4, which is/was a great entry level bike for the sport. The first thing I am looking to upgrade is the group set.

My bike uses a Shimano Sora group set, which I want to replace with the Shimano dura-ace 7900. I have noticed it’s possible to buy the parts separately for this group set. Is it possible to use two different group sets together on you bike, or is this completely out of the question? If it is possible, which parts should I replace first, and which parts should I leave until last?

My aim is to eventually end up with a bike I can race at a professional level. I don't like the idea of forking out thousands of pounds on an amazing bike.....it just doesn't seem justified, and that's without taking into account the cost. I also like the idea of my bike progressing in quality as I progress in fitness.

I am completely open to suggestion, and of course, if you think I am going about things the wrong way, I would be most grateful to hear your opinions.

Many thanks,

Charlie

 

[dabac]

Hello everyone.
I am a student who is not very well off! However I am a ultra enthusiastic road cyclist who wants to take things to the next level. I am looking to gradually upgrade my bike....piece by piece, making it easier to pay for.

Buying a bike piecemeal is absolutely the most expensive way to go about it, unless you're really skilled in bargain hunting, and have a perfect knowledge of which parts that will be compatible with your current build.

My suggestion is this:
1) ride your bike as it is, only replace parts when they absolutely break/wear out.
2) Get yourself a jar, write "new bike" on it
3) every time you get the urge to upgrade a part that's still working - empty your wallet into the upgrade jar.
4) start looking for a used higher spec bike, or look for end-of-season-specials. Bigger dealers can give heavy discounts if they find themselves burdened with a lot "old" bikes when there are new models on the way.
5) don't obsess about what you're riding on. Outright equipment failures aside, it's much more about the rider than the bike.

 

[Chazzz801]

Buying a bike piecemeal is absolutely the most expensive way to go about it, unless you're really skilled in bargain hunting, and have a perfect knowledge of which parts that will be compatible with your current build.

My suggestion is this:
1) ride your bike as it is, only replace parts when they absolutely break/wear out.
2) Get yourself a jar, write "new bike" on it
3) every time you get the urge to upgrade a part that's still working - empty your wallet into the upgrade jar.
4) start looking for a used higher spec bike, or look for end-of-season-specials. Bigger dealers can give heavy discounts if they find themselves burdened with a lot "old" bikes when there are new models on the way.
5) don't obsess about what you're riding on. Outright equipment failures aside, it's much more about the rider than the bike.

Thanks for the advice.

So from what you have said, i assume it is possible to have a mixture of groupsets, such as Sora and Dura-Ace for example?

For me its more pratical to upgrade my bike parts than buy a new bike, even if there is a disscount, the sort of standard I am aiming for requires a good quality bike. Appart from anything else I enjoy knowing exactly what goes into a bike, and since I have the chance to "start a fresh", for me it seems the most logical way forward. Where exactly are good places to look for used bikes and when? I am not completely ruling this out, if something pops up I really like.

Thanks,

Charlie

 

[giantbikeguy]

Even with upgrading all the components you will have great parts but a heavy frame with light parts on it. I second what dabac said about only replacing what breaks and saving up for a newer bike, I just got a nice screaming deal off ebay for one and just keep looking.

 

[Chazzz801]

Even with upgrading all the components you will have great parts but a heavy frame with light parts on it. I second what dabac said about only replacing what breaks and saving up for a newer bike, I just got a nice screaming deal off ebay for one and just keep looking.

Yes that's true, but then I could replace the frame, fork etc. later on. Im just trying to find a more financialy secure method of upgrading my bike. Time is really not an issue for me. Even going on ebay, the most I would want to pay for a new bike would be around the £1000 mark, and for that I don't think I would be getting the kind of standard that i'm looking for. I see where you are coming from, and I have spent a good deal of time scanning ebay for some good bargains, but from my research, although the prices are a great deal better than what you would find brand new off the market, for the standard of bike I am aiming for, it's still to expensive in one go.

Btw........I'm still searching for an answer to the question; "can you mix groupsets parts together" (eg can use Ultegra parts with Sora parts)?

I'm keeping an open mind. Thanks for the feedback so far guys

Charlie

 

[rparedes]

Thanks for the advice.

So from what you have said, i assume it is possible to have a mixture of groupsets, such as Sora and Dura-Ace for example?

For me its more pratical to upgrade my bike parts than buy a new bike, even if there is a disscount, the sort of standard I am aiming for requires a good quality bike. Appart from anything else I enjoy knowing exactly what goes into a bike, and since I have the chance to "start a fresh", for me it seems the most logical way forward. Where exactly are good places to look for used bikes and when? I am not completely ruling this out, if something pops up I really like.

Thanks,

Charlie

The OCR is not a "heavy" frame, some of the parts are ( I think the frame under 1300 grams). It has a carbon fork and carbon seatpost so its not a bad start. I think you can start with the wheels (the stock are VERY heavy; Zeros I think), then tires (switch to 23 mm) and tubes. Then I would wait until other parts wear out. You can, in fact get good prices on Ebay if you shop reeeeally hard. Look for items that end during the week and late at night, set a price and don't go over it (you can search under "completed" items and see the sold price ranges) I'd buy a book like Zinn's "the art of bike maintenance" or Park Tools Blue book and read everything you can about different groups, compatibility, installation and maintenance. I've built two bikes from scratch and saved a ton of money but it took about 1 year for each and a lot of work but it was fun.... be careful you can become addicted to it I did.

 

[genedan]

I would advise that you just wait until you have enough money to buy a complete new bike. By the time you save up enough money to buy Dura-Ace your current bike is gonna be outdated and you might as well spend the money on a nice Ultegra bike...Dura-Ace is really just a luxury and it'll only help if you're already REALLY GOOD (i.e., help you go from 2nd place to 1st place, but not from 100th place to say, 10th place).

You can probably even move from Cat. 5 to Cat. 4 with that Sora bike of yours. Anyways in the long run, as a student it'll be best for you to get Ultegra, and use the money you save from not getting Dura-Ace to upgrade the set of wheels you have on the new bike you get.

As for a gram-by-gram comparison:

Dura-Ace = 2105 grams at $2600
Ultegra = 2329 grams at $1400

Difference = 224 grams at $1200

I don't know how many pounds $1200 dollars is, but that's A LOT OF MONEY for just saving 224 grams...both the groupsets don't have all that much performance difference...only if you're already at a high level.

224 grams...you can probably easily lose 224 grams of body weight in a week, so just think about it!

Furthermore, when you buy a high-end groupset like Ultegra/Dura-Ace, the replacement parts are going to be a lot more expensive than Sora parts. So as a student, save the money, so you'll have extra cash on hand when something bad happens (chain breaks...shift levers go caput, handlebars break from crash, replacement cassette, etc.).

 

[dabac]

So from what you have said, i assume it is possible to have a mixture of groupsets, such as Sora and Dura-Ace for example?

Yes, there is quite a bit of leeway in terms of mixing groupsets. There are a few areas of conflict though. Sora will "only" go to 9 speed for instance.

For me its more practical to upgrade my bike parts than buy a new bike,

Well, it might look practical, but odds are, you will end up paying a large chunk more that way. If we ignore the bargain hunting option I'd guess you'd be looking at 30% extra cost(if not more) if you go the piecemeal upgrade route.

On top of that, most people who get in to riding in a serious way will try to keep two bikes(at least) One nice for races and fair weather rides, and one "beater" for training and rainy rides. If you save your money and go for the nice bike you'll have the training bike already sorted.

... Where exactly are good places to look for used bikes and when?

Shops tends to try to shift any remaining pricey bikes late autumn, and then desperately early spring to make room for new models.

Another option is local cycling clubs. They might even have sponsored riders who are pretty much forced to trade out their bikes at the beginning of each season.

Then there are all those who promise themselves a new and healthier you, buy a bike, go on 3 training rides before giving up. Those bikes may show up on ebay, local classifieds ads or similar anytime during summer.

 

[genedan]

SORA IS 9 SPEED NOW? Oh well that ******* blows because it'll be harder to replace the parts on my current 8 speed.

Charlie do you happen to be a college student? If you are and your college's team happens to be corporately sponsored, you might be able to get a good deal...On my team we were able to get $6000 bikes for like $2250.

Anyways if you just happen to be really good you can join a team that incorporates pro 1/2 along with good amateurs and you can get a deal that way too...or at least that's what it's like in the States. How is racing governed...wherever it is you live?

 

[wheelerw]

I'd say just buy a complete new bike. If you want to buy the parts individually, I would use ebay. Sram is coming out with a new groupset called 'Apex' in April, which looks like it will be a good group that competes with Shimano 105, but will be slightly cheaper. Maybe wait for that?

 

[dabac]

If you really get into it, bikes will come and go, so don't sink more money into them than functionally required.
If you're at a budget, spend the money on what will remain the same - you, the motor. Your are the most critical component on your bike.
Book a bike fitting session, sign up with an endurance athlete coach, have him/her write up a training program for you.
Get your heart rate and VOmax tested.
Follow the program, do something more than just ride yourself tired.
Do the intervals and the long slogs.
Track your improvements.
Maybe get a trainer and/or a powertap rear wheel to help with training.
Have a lok at your diet, tune it and adapt it to where you're at in your training program. Honor the rest periods.

Particularly the coach and the training program will do a lot more for your competitive edge than any component upgrade will ever do.

 

[Chazzz801]

If you really get into it, bikes will come and go, so don't sink more money into them than functionally required.
If you're at a budget, spend the money on what will remain the same - you, the motor. Your are the most critical component on your bike.
Book a bike fitting session, sign up with an endurance athlete coach, have him/her write up a training program for you.
Get your heart rate and VOmax tested.
Follow the program, do something more than just ride yourself tired.
Do the intervals and the long slogs.
Track your improvements.
Maybe get a trainer and/or a powertap rear wheel to help with training.
Have a lok at your diet, tune it and adapt it to where you're at in your training program. Honor the rest periods.

Particularly the coach and the training program will do a lot more for your competitive edge than any component upgrade will ever do.

Thanks dabac.

This actually makes quite a lot of sense, despite the fact it’s not really what I wanted to hear Having said this, I’m so committed to cycling now it doesn't particularly bother me what I do or buy, so long as I get on my bike each day to train, and that it doesn't lose the enjoyment factor. I think sometimes you can get so bogged down with facts and figures, and the new best products on the market, its easy to become side-tracked from your own personal fitness levels.

Cheers,

Charlie.

 

[dabac]

.... so long as I get on my bike each day to train....

Keep in mind that there's a big difference between merely "riding", and training. I've tried it, both as a cyclist and as a runner. If you haven't got a plan it's very easy to develop a habit of how hard/long you go, and to stick to it. And the only thing you find down that road is stagnation.
If you want to develop you need a plan, and it needs to contain a mix of long slogs, resting days and interval training. Regular stretching is a must, and gym sessions(or other activites) are also likely to be beneficial.

And each day isn't necessarily a good thing, particularly if you're fairly young and new to serious riding. W/o recovery periods training can be directly harmful.

 

[kdelong]

I have to agree with dabac, set a goal and develop a training plan to reach that goal. There have been some good ones in Bicycling magazine this past year. The current issue has a good 10-week plan for riding a century and they do a good mix of endurance and speed work along with every Monday off the bike and a good bit of recovery work nearly every other day. And this is in an advertisement for the Tour de Cure! I am sure that your local library has cycling books that will aid you in developing a plan or you could probably get some help from your local cycling club.

I also agree with everyone else that you should wait and save to buy a new bike instead of upgrading your bike piecemeal. Going from Sora to Ultegra or DA is not really reasonably possible nor economical. At best you will probably develop bad habits from trying to physically compensate for the lack of true compatability between the groups as you slowly make your changes.

One more little bit of advice is to go with Ultegra rather than DA. The main reason that the sponsored pros ride DA is because it is supplied by the sponsor. The only difference between Ultegra and DA is a slight weight difference and the all important bling factor. They have identical performance in my opinion and I have ridden both, 2009 vintage, one right after the other to make my own personal comparison.