"Ken M" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:
[email protected]...
> Johnny Sunset wrote:
>
>> Ken,
>>
>> Since you mention aerodynamic drag on longer rides as a deficiency of
>> riding an upright bicycle with higher handlebars, it is my opinion that
>> a CLWB may not be the best bicycle for you. CLWB bikes with the
>> relatively high seat, low BB and upright seating position are not that
>> aerodynamic, and may be no better than riding a drop bar upright "on
>> the hoods".
>>
> Well I think my diamond frame rides even higher, more upright than a road
> bike "on the hoods".
>
>> I am not suggesting that you need to get a lowracer, highracer or fully
>> faired bike, but a SWB bike with a reasonably high BB and seat recline
>> will do much better in windy conditions. A LWB bicycle with a front
>> fairing can also perform well.
>>
Ken, don't forget that this is only your first bent. Don't overthink this
too much. Buy something you like the looks of, and if you have the chance to
ride it so much the better. If you want something with the potential for
speed, it's gonna cost. OTOH I know a guy who rides a Rebike and terrorizes
the lycra kit boys. Of course he looks like a Studabaker on the outside, but
he has a souped up Caddy engine inside.
If you'd be satisfied with something more utilitarian, a little less sporty
and heavier, it's gonna be a LOT cheaper. Used bents happen (see
www.recumbents.com for a good selection of used bents. If you buy a used
bent that doesn't blend with your objectives, sell it and try something
else. You should be able to recover your investment less freight.
> Well I know that some swb bikes have a lower frontage area, due to higher
> bb and more reclined seat. I experimented with a home-brew swb last
> winter. Due to my lack of knowledge of frame geometry it was a bit
> unstable, plus heavy steel frame made it weight in at over 40+pounds, and
> I had gearing problems as well. But OTOH I did get to ride it enough to
> appreciate the swb layout, which is my I inquired in an earlier post about
> swb bikes for beginners. I don't know much about fairings,except that I
> have read that they improve aerodynamic efficiency.
>
>> The used market may be the better alternative. Bikes such as the RANS
>> Rocket and Vision R-40 (1999 and later R-40's are better) are/were made
>> in relatively large quantities, and if not damaged by crashing or
>> abuse, will likely only require minor work to be fully functional.
>> There are other less common SWB models that occasionally show up on the
>> used market.
Good advice. See link above for a source.
>>
> Well the lbs here that is a dealer for both SUN & CYCLE GENIUS supposedly
> also has some used models. I will inquire about them on Tuesday when I go
> for a test ride.
>
>> There are also some older LWB bikes (e.g. RANS Stratus, Easy Racers
>> Tour Easy) that may fall into your price range. Just be aware that
>> since these bikes were expensive when new, those selling for less than
>> $1,000 will be quite old. The main concern here will be that they might
>> be equipped with things like 6-speed freewheels, so upgrading to modern
>> drive trains could be expensive.
Of course, when these were new, they were state of the art, and probably
work well enough for a first time bike. You can still buy six (6) speed
chain.
And of course, with any older
>> bicycles, the frame should be inspected for signs of damage and fatigue
>> cracking. Also, these bicycles perform much better with front fairings,
>> so I would look for a used bike with the fairing included.
>>
>
> Thanks for the advise.
>
> Ken
> --
> [T]he bicycle is the most efficient machine ever created: Converting
> calories into gas, a bicycle gets the equivalent of three thousand miles
> per gallon. ~Bill Strickland, The Quotable Cyclist
>
> Homepage: http://kcm-home.tripod.com/
>
>
>
Just buy a Tailwind, dude!
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