channie said:
Thanks for the reply (even though it is a bit harsh.) I am trying to "get a clue." I am pretty sure the bike is the right size. If I get a larger frame - my problems get worse. This is actually my third bike. It is a small/compact frame. I started out on a 54" frame and now I am down to was is roughly considered a 48-50" frame. I am only 5'5". I have longer legs and a shorter torso. I am in over good shape (how that matters I don't understand) and I only have the issue on my LEFT side - wouldn't the problem be present on both sides if bike size was a issue?
I guess I should have just asked if anyone had changed the stem on this particular model of bike. I have been to all the bike shops in my town and they have not been able to recommend a replacement stem.
Based on your recommendation I need to just have a custom bike build - correct? Well that is not a financial option.
I'm glad someone gave you a bike ... but, neither said person, your riding buddies, your coach, nor the shops you have gone to apparently know very much about bicycles.
Changing a stem is only a little more complicated than changing a saddle, and easier than changing a tire.
No offense to the sales clerks or mechanics at your bike shops, but changing the stem can be done on almost any bicycle ...
If you need a shorter stem on your bike, it can be changed.
Either BMX or DOWNHILL stems generally have negligible extension -- they are available for handlebars with standard/(26.0mm +/-) center sections & OS (31.8mm) center sections. Check
www.danscomp.com for a BMX stem.
In addition to stems with different extensions, they are available with different angles.
There are Hi-Rise stems which are often used on MTBs which CAN also be used on a ROAD bike. The Hi-Rise stems have about a 90mm net extension & raise the handlebars by about an inch ... there are also extenders which sleeve onto the end of the steering column which will raise the stem & therefore the handlebar. Hi-Rise stems are available from REI (or, their on-line store), amongst other retailers.
If the fork uses a "quill" stem, it can be changed.
In addition to handlebars coming in different WIDTHS, different handlebars have a different REACH & DROP ...
SALSA makes what they refer to as a "short & shallow" handlebar.
As far as an "ergo" bar -- because the bar can be set up differently based on various factors, I suspect some orientations can probably exacerbate the situation you are experiencing.
Are you always riding with your hands on the drops?
I don't know what you those who are advising you mean by a "compact" handlebar. If they mean to suggest a narrower handlebar, they may be correct; but, a wider handlebar may also be more suitable!
Further trial-and-error with the components may be necessary than you-and-yours have attempted in the past.
Your fitness level CAN make a difference because it impacts how you sit on the bike ... your contact points are the saddle, the pedals & the handlebars ...
FYI. The function of the multiple curves of a ROAD handlebar is to provide the rider the ability to grip the bars in different ways while s/he is riding & thereby have whatever pressure that is exerted on the hands vary during the course of the ride. One thing you probably need to do is to learn to place your hands on different parts of the handlebar while you are riding.
If you are only having a problem with your left hand, then you are EITHER (and, there may be other reasons) placing too much weight on your hands (in general) and/or you may have an undiagnosed circulatory problem OR you may be holding on to the handlebar with a DEATH GRIP & thereby affecting circulation.
If the latter, initially, try wrapping the left side of the handlebars (I presume you are using a ROAD bar) with an additional layer of "cork" handlebar tape to increase the diameter & thereby preclude having as tight-a-grip on the bars. In addition to adding some cushioning from road vibration,
the larger diameter will hopefully help you to "teach" you hand(s) to hold onto the bars with a different, looser grip.
Your fitness will affect your riding position ... you may need a slightly more upright position & thereby change the weight distribution.
ALSO. While the frame may-or-may-not be the correct size, the placement of the saddle may not be optimal for YOU. Try moving the saddle BACK ... perhaps as far as it will go in the seatpost cradle ... and, try lowering the saddle height by between a half-and-full centimeter. If that helps, then incrementally move it forward on successive rides if you want to try to find the ideal position for YOU.
It sounds like you are on a HS team. Is that right? How much experience does your 'coach' actually have?
BTW. Whether you are a guy OR girl, if your upper body (specifically, your shoulder area) strength is on the low side OR your back is weak, then you will probably be placing more weight on your hands than you need to. Increasing your back and/or shoulder strength may be beneficial.
You really should post a picture of your bike as it is currently set up. How far below the top of the saddle are the stem, handlebar, hoods?
