Eurus first US shipped version (2002 mid year) rear hub rebuild

[Chris M]

I just love these wheels. I Love them so much I want to get the newest
version too, in spite of the aluminum spokes. I think their design
ideas are brilliant. It is easy to see why they deployed this G3
pattern (2 drive spokes for each non-drive) on all new designs since
2002 on the mid-v and deep-v wheels.

Anyhoo, I have the hub broken down and ready to repack (well, not
really "pack" but as per Campag re-greasing) and the non-drive side
bearing race seems to be very slightly out of plane. I thought getting
it seated cleanly would be enough and that any slight corrections would
occur as I re-assemble. The pawls are perfect but the mentioned bearing
seem gritty though they look and feel perfect when everything else is
removed. I did not remove the green gasket holding the race inside
while the axle is removed. I am concerned that if I do I might damage
it and I don't have a replacement in hand. If I can't figure out what
the deal is I might need to risk damaging it to get a better look at
what is happening. I thought I would mention it here to see if any of
you folks have run in to this and have a now obvious-to-you ez fix.

TIA

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Chris M wrote:
> I just love these wheels. I Love them so much I want to get the newest
> version too, in spite of the aluminum spokes. I think their design
> ideas are brilliant. It is easy to see why they deployed this G3
> pattern (2 drive spokes for each non-drive) on all new designs since
> 2002 on the mid-v and deep-v wheels.
>
> Anyhoo, I have the hub broken down and ready to repack (well, not
> really "pack" but as per Campag re-greasing) and the non-drive side
> bearing race seems to be very slightly out of plane. I thought getting
> it seated cleanly would be enough and that any slight corrections would
> occur as I re-assemble. The pawls are perfect but the mentioned bearing
> seem gritty though they look and feel perfect when everything else is
> removed. I did not remove the green gasket holding the race inside
> while the axle is removed. I am concerned that if I do I might damage
> it and I don't have a replacement in hand. If I can't figure out what
> the deal is I might need to risk damaging it to get a better look at
> what is happening. I thought I would mention it here to see if any of
> you folks have run in to this and have a now obvious-to-you ez fix.
>
> TIA

Record based hub. Take the aluminum axle out, along with the freehub
body attached. 'Nut' at end of the freehub body is left
threaded-righty-loosey. Take that off as well and see if the freehub
beraings are still smooth. On the left side, pop the thin seal out,
take the bearings out(5/32 in a cage-15 of them). Clean it all out.
When you took the left apart, you saw a silver saluminum retainer and
then the dark cone. After you have cleaned and regreased(repack is
fine, cannot use too much grease. Not a ton on the freehub side but the
seal there will keep a lot of greaae from getting around thwe pawls).

When you reassmble, the cone will seat as long as the bearings are in
the corrct direction(balls out) and the seal is in the slot for it.
Reassemble and then adjust, everything will center.

 

[Chris M]

You know, I had thought that the roughness came from the non-drive side
but it is actually the race on the drive side. It appears a little
pitted. I guess I need to order a few parts so now I wonder if there is
a kit for rebuilds that has races, bearings and gaskets. What parts
would you replace if you had to order (and wait) for that race already?
Are the BBs cheap enough to replace "to be safe" or should I only
replace the gaskets and what is clearly worn?

Another thing I noticed now that I have nearly every piece torn apart
(I forgot these puppies have real grease ports on the hub shell), the
only parts remaining together are the cassette carrier and the pawl
carrier. There was a small alan nut that seemingly held it together but
removing it did not help my attempts to remove the 2 parts from each
other.

That reminds me of the other question. Do I treat the pawls with oil or
anything? I remember a long time ago someone saying that they grease
the pawls to make it quiet but that seems wrong. OTOH, mine had grease
on them from "grease drift" I guess and they still worked. I would
rather out a little White Lightning on them and keep them as clean as
possible.

Thank you

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Chris M wrote:
> You know, I had thought that the roughness came from the non-drive side
> but it is actually the race on the drive side. It appears a little
> pitted. I guess I need to order a few parts so now I wonder if there is
> a kit for rebuilds that has races, bearings and gaskets. What parts
> would you replace if you had to order (and wait) for that race already?
> Are the BBs cheap enough to replace "to be safe" or should I only
> replace the gaskets and what is clearly worn?

Cones are sold separately($22 per), I use grade 25 bearings(5/32, need
15in the cage-$.10 per, no need to change the seal unless it's torn-but
we have those also for $2 per). If the cone is pitted, change the
bearings as well.

>
> Another thing I noticed now that I have nearly every piece torn apart
> (I forgot these puppies have real grease ports on the hub shell), the
> only parts remaining together are the cassette carrier and the pawl
> carrier. There was a small alan nut that seemingly held it together but
> removing it did not help my attempts to remove the 2 parts from each
> other.

Those are hooked together at thew factory. The teeny allen screw in the
body is for injecting grease into the faces of the two cart bearings
inside.
>
> That reminds me of the other question. Do I treat the pawls with oil or
> anything? I remember a long time ago someone saying that they grease
> the pawls to make it quiet but that seems wrong. OTOH, mine had grease
> on them from "grease drift" I guess and they still worked. I would
> rather out a little White Lightning on them and keep them as clean as
> possible.

Clean them, I use a tooth brush and a wee bit of WD-40-let dry and I
oil the pawls themselves with Mobil One motor oil. A slight wipe of
grease onto the toothed ring around the pawls, grease onto the bearings
underneath the freehub body, in the bearings of the hub body.
>
> Thank you