Quoted post said:Originally Posted by cfgrs [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
I'd like to start picking up parts to upgrade it slowly, eventually swapping out the frame for something a bit more "serious". New rims are kinda at the top of my list. Basically wondering, exactly how possible is it to start collecting new parts on an old Raleigh, and eventually switch frames? I don't know how interchangable parts can be on a road bike.
The relevant parts will be interchangeable UNLESS you are reckless in your purchases ...
Pre-1976 Raleigh Record frames continued to use Raleigh's proprietary BB threading; and, while it is inconvenient to work with, it is not impossible.
The easiest way to tell YOUR particular frame has a Raleigh threaded BB is to determine whether it has a STEEL crankset or an ALLOY crankset.
If your Raliegh's frame has a steel crankset, then the only things which you probably want to spend money on are:
- the saddle (unless you are satisfied with the way it fits you + condition
- the rear Freewheel + rear derailleur
- the shifters ... Campagnolo 10-speed shifters because they can be indexed to a variety of drivetrains
If your Raleigh's frame has a steel crankset, then it probably has 27" wheels ... and then, 700c wheel are almost impossible to install with the Weinmann center pull brake calipers which the bike would probably have due to the rather long "reach" which the calipers would need to have.
- replacement calipers would allow you to use 700c wheels in a Raleigh frame designed for 27" wheels
- FWIW. here is my early 70s vintage Raleigh Grand Prix frame fitted with 700c wheels + MAFAC calipers (the gimbal'd holders on the MAFAC calipers allow the pad holders to be canted downward enough to reach the brake surface on the 700c rims, otherwise the brake pads would not reach the rims):
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If your Raleigh's frame has an alloy crank and/or 700c wheels, then your budget is your greatest limitation & the parts which will not transfer are:
- seatpost (your Raleigh probably uses a 25.4mm seatpost)
- stem (new bikes do not use quill stems)
- headset (few new bikes will use a 1" threaded headset)
BTW. Depending on the vintage of your Raleigh Record, it will have 120mm -- possibly 126mm -- rear spacing ...
You will want to respace the rear to 130mm ...
Respacing is easier on some frames than others ... or, put another way, more difficult on some frmes than on others ...
Sheldon Brown recommends using a 2x4 for leverage!! I disagree since this requires many more steps & time (IMO) than simply pulling outward on the two dropouts simultaneously AND THEN repeating several times as necessary.
AFTER the 130mm spacing is achieved, the dropouts need to be aligned -- a large adjustable wrench or pipe wrench + scrap wood sandwiched around the dropouts can be used.
