Exploded diagrams Shimano components?

  • Thread starter Mike Rocket J Squirrel
  • Start date



M

Mike Rocket J Squirrel

Guest
The damp coastal air here in SoCal does quite a number on non-stainless
fasteners. The hardware on my wife's road bike is pretty rusty and I want
to replace as much of the bits with stainless fasteners from such places
as loosescrews.com, etc. I reckon I could take her brakes and stuff apart
and make a shopping list, but I was wondering if there were exploded parts
diagrams or fastener lists of the various Shimano ders and brakes and
levers and things? Be a lot easier to order the parts ahead of time
instead of disassemble, measure, make list, assemble, order, wait,
disassemble, replace, assemble again.

--
Mike RJS
 
Mike Rocket J Squirrel said:
The damp coastal air here in SoCal does quite a number on non-stainless
fasteners. The hardware on my wife's road bike is pretty rusty and I want
to replace as much of the bits with stainless fasteners from such places
as loosescrews.com, etc. I reckon I could take her brakes and stuff apart
and make a shopping list, but I was wondering if there were exploded parts
diagrams or fastener lists of the various Shimano ders and brakes and
levers and things? Be a lot easier to order the parts ahead of time
instead of disassemble, measure, make list, assemble, order, wait,
disassemble, replace, assemble again.

--
Mike RJS
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/RD/EV-RD-5600-2452_v1_m56577569830609120.pdf


Many listing like the one above in bike.shimano techdocs exploded view for the particular component you want.
 
On Mar 6, 3:21 pm, Mike Rocket J Squirrel
<[email protected]> wrote:
> The damp coastal air here in SoCal does quite a number on non-stainless
> fasteners. The hardware on my wife's road bike is pretty rusty and I want
> to replace as much of the bits with stainless fasteners from such places
> as loosescrews.com, etc. I reckon I could take her brakes and stuff apart
> and make a shopping list, but I was wondering if there were exploded parts
> diagrams or fastener lists of the various Shimano ders and brakes and
> levers and things? Be a lot easier to order the parts ahead of time
> instead of disassemble, measure, make list, assemble, order, wait,
> disassemble, replace, assemble again.
>
> --
> Mike RJS


wire rotary brush in lectric drill then linseed oil or liquid rubber.
tried the linseed tool trick?
linseed, AKA flax seed grown by those poor Inidan dirt farmers?
according to David Johnson, polymerizes.
Take ur $2 walMart tools, place in superdupree plastic grobag, pour in
rational amount linseed to cover. Fumble tools around in bag with
linseed and/or squish around and into say box end wrenches ID. Tie bag
off and place in sun. Wait one week and open. Wallllooooahahahahah
polymerized Wal tools
rustproof natural plastic coating.

you prob is prob dew point condensation. Coastalwise, DPCon occurs
insdie the toolbox placed inside the car, and off course in the
vehicle's boxed frame memembers.
Linseed will stop salt deposits from DPCon, on ura sockets!!! and
fasteners.
check ura saltinoid on ura salter?
 
On Mar 6, 8:21 pm, Mike Rocket J Squirrel
<[email protected]> wrote:
> The damp coastal air here in SoCal does quite a number on non-stainless
> fasteners. The hardware on my wife's road bike is pretty rusty and I want
> to replace as much of the bits with stainless fasteners from such places
> as loosescrews.com, etc. I reckon I could take her brakes and stuff apart
> and make a shopping list, but I was wondering if there were exploded parts
> diagrams or fastener lists of the various Shimano ders and brakes and
> levers and things? Be a lot easier to order the parts ahead of time
> instead of disassemble, measure, make list, assemble, order, wait,
> disassemble, replace, assemble again.
>
> --
> Mike RJS


Better check the screw lengths. I was horrified to find my Cyber Nexus
groupset has several non-standard length screws in it. And of course
they're the ones that screw into blind holes... I wanted only to
replace four crossheads with hex socket heads, but i spent the entire
afternoon filing the bolts to length.

Andre Jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE & CYCLING.html
 
"Andre Jute" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:59bc1068-fe03-4235-b5a2-ec6d74176530@n75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

>Better check the screw lengths. I was horrified to find my Cyber Nexus
>groupset has several non-standard length screws in it. And of course
>they're the ones that screw into blind holes... I wanted only to
>replace four crossheads with hex socket heads, but i spent the entire
>afternoon filing the bolts to length.


I would say angle grinder, but that's probably overkill - an abrasive disk
on a power drill does the job in no time. A common leftpondian answer is
"Dremel", but they're less popular over here.

That assumes you're only taking a bit off - more than a few mm and a hacksaw
is the correct tool. Leave a nut or two on to clamp to and tidy up the
threads afterwards.
 
> "Andre Jute" <[email protected]> wrote
>> Better check the screw lengths. I was horrified to find my Cyber Nexus
>> groupset has several non-standard length screws in it. And of course
>> they're the ones that screw into blind holes... I wanted only to
>> replace four crossheads with hex socket heads, but i spent the entire
>> afternoon filing the bolts to length.


Clive George wrote:
> I would say angle grinder, but that's probably overkill - an abrasive
> disk on a power drill does the job in no time. A common leftpondian
> answer is "Dremel", but they're less popular over here.
> That assumes you're only taking a bit off - more than a few mm and a
> hacksaw is the correct tool. Leave a nut or two on to clamp to and tidy
> up the threads afterwards.


Mechanics normally just add a washer of appropriate thickness under the
bolt head, for example on a rack mount to keep the end of the bolt out
of the chain.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On 3/6/2008 4:27 PM datakoll wrote:

> On Mar 6, 3:21 pm, Mike Rocket J Squirrel
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> The damp coastal air here in SoCal does quite a number on non-stainless
>> fasteners. The hardware on my wife's road bike is pretty rusty and I want
>> to replace as much of the bits with stainless fasteners from such places
>> as loosescrews.com, etc. I reckon I could take her brakes and stuff apart
>> and make a shopping list, but I was wondering if there were exploded parts
>> diagrams or fastener lists of the various Shimano ders and brakes and
>> levers and things? Be a lot easier to order the parts ahead of time
>> instead of disassemble, measure, make list, assemble, order, wait,
>> disassemble, replace, assemble again.
>>
>> --
>> Mike RJS

>
> wire rotary brush in lectric drill then linseed oil or liquid rubber.
> tried the linseed tool trick?
> linseed, AKA flax seed grown by those poor Inidan dirt farmers?
> according to David Johnson, polymerizes.
> Take ur $2 walMart tools, place in superdupree plastic grobag, pour in
> rational amount linseed to cover. Fumble tools around in bag with
> linseed and/or squish around and into say box end wrenches ID. Tie bag
> off and place in sun. Wait one week and open. Wallllooooahahahahah
> polymerized Wal tools
> rustproof natural plastic coating.
>
> you prob is prob dew point condensation. Coastalwise, DPCon occurs
> insdie the toolbox placed inside the car, and off course in the
> vehicle's boxed frame memembers.
> Linseed will stop salt deposits from DPCon, on ura sockets!!! and
> fasteners.
> check ura saltinoid on ura salter?


Great tip re linseed oil, will try on new, unrusted parts. These hardware
bits have their chrome (or whatever it is) all rusted through already. The
plating is gone.

--
Mike RJS
 
On 3/6/2008 2:51 PM daveornee wrote:

> Mike Rocket J Squirrel Wrote:
>> The damp coastal air here in SoCal does quite a number on non-stainless
>> fasteners. The hardware on my wife's road bike is pretty rusty and I
>> want
>> to replace as much of the bits with stainless fasteners from such
>> places
>> as loosescrews.com, etc. I reckon I could take her brakes and stuff
>> apart
>> and make a shopping list, but I was wondering if there were exploded
>> parts
>> diagrams or fastener lists of the various Shimano ders and brakes and
>> levers and things? Be a lot easier to order the parts ahead of time
>> instead of disassemble, measure, make list, assemble, order, wait,
>> disassemble, replace, assemble again.
>>
>> --
>> Mike RJS

> http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd.../RD/EV-RD-5600-2452_v1_m56577569830609120.pdf
>
>
> Many listing like the one above in bike.shimano techdocs exploded view
> for the particular component you want.
>
>


Perfect! Thanks.

--
Mike RJS
 
On Mar 7, 3:06 am, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> > "Andre Jute" <[email protected]> wrote
> >> Better check the screw lengths. I was horrified to find my Cyber Nexus
> >> groupset has several non-standard length screws in it. And of course
> >> they're the ones that screw into blind holes... I wanted only to
> >> replace four crossheads with hex socket heads, but i spent the entire
> >> afternoon filing the bolts to length.

> Clive George wrote:
> > I would say angle grinder, but that's probably overkill - an abrasive
> > disk on a power drill does the job in no time. A common leftpondian
> > answer is "Dremel", but they're less popular over here.
> > That assumes you're only taking a bit off - more than a few mm and a
> > hacksaw is the correct tool. Leave a nut or two on to clamp to and tidy
> > up the threads afterwards.


Thanks, Clive. I don't have a problem working out such simple
procedures -- I used to build one-off cars from scratch, and turned
several old Bentley into sports cars. But it takes me a while to
assemble all the tools from various places; I don't keep a tap and die
set in my bike toolbox, for instance.

> Mechanics normally just add a washer of appropriate thickness under the
> bolt head, for example on a rack mount to keep the end of the bolt out
> of the chain.


> --
> Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971


Sure, I add plain and spring washers routinely where there are none,
but in this case the plastic part was indented and the hole only big
enough to hold the socket head, no space for washers.

I really cannot understand how a firm like Shimano can order a special
length screw rather than redesign the plastic fitting to use a
standard length screw; in fact, I fail to understand how they so
misdesigned it in the first instance. I dropped one of the originals
and it was gone. That could be very irritating to some poor sod
without the tools or the time to shorten a locally available screw,
not to mention that sockethead screws are available only in a limited
range of sizes at a single hardware store in a fifty mile radius (he
got them in for me for something else). It isn't either as if the
wretched little brown plastic part will be aesthetically ruined by
being made half a millimetre thicker.

Andre Jute
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE & CYCLING.html
 
"Andre Jute" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Mar 7, 3:06 am, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > "Andre Jute" <[email protected]> wrote
>> >> Better check the screw lengths. I was horrified to find my Cyber Nexus
>> >> groupset has several non-standard length screws in it. And of course
>> >> they're the ones that screw into blind holes... I wanted only to
>> >> replace four crossheads with hex socket heads, but i spent the entire
>> >> afternoon filing the bolts to length.

>> Clive George wrote:
>> > I would say angle grinder, but that's probably overkill - an abrasive
>> > disk on a power drill does the job in no time. A common leftpondian
>> > answer is "Dremel", but they're less popular over here.
>> > That assumes you're only taking a bit off - more than a few mm and a
>> > hacksaw is the correct tool. Leave a nut or two on to clamp to and tidy
>> > up the threads afterwards.

>
>Thanks, Clive. I don't have a problem working out such simple
>procedures -- I used to build one-off cars from scratch, and turned
>several old Bentley into sports cars. But it takes me a while to
>assemble all the tools from various places; I don't keep a tap and die
>set in my bike toolbox, for instance.


Who said anything about tap and die set? The nut cleans up the threads -
pretty standard practice IME.

I did wonder how you'd managed to take all afternoon over it - do you not
have your tools assembled in one place, commonly known as a workshop?
Certainly that's where my tools live, both bike and non-bike. And even with
my stunning disorganisation, I could take a few bolts down in a few minutes.

clive
 
Andre Jute wrote:
> [...]
> not to mention that sockethead screws are available only in a limited
> range of sizes at a single hardware store in a fifty mile radius (he
> got them in for me for something else).[...]


There is a whole isle devoted to threaded fasteners at my local Farm &
Fleet store, including every normal "English" and "Metric" size hex-head
bolts.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
On Mar 8, 7:50 am, Tom Sherman <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Andre Jute wrote:
> > [...]
> > not to mention that sockethead screws are available only in a limited
> > range of sizes at a single hardware store in a fifty mile radius (he
> > got them in for me for something else).[...]

>
> There is a whole isle devoted to threaded fasteners at my local Farm &
> Fleet store, including every normal "English" and "Metric" size hex-head
> bolts.


Lucky you. I can get overnight delivery from RS in Dublin.

Andre Jute
A phone is also an engineering tool
 
> Andre Jute wrote:
>> [...]
>> not to mention that sockethead screws are available only in a limited
>> range of sizes at a single hardware store in a fifty mile radius (he
>> got them in for me for something else).[...]


Tom Sherman wrote:
> There is a whole isle devoted to threaded fasteners at my local Farm &
> Fleet store, including every normal "English" and "Metric" size hex-head
> bolts.


Unless your Farm+Fleet is flooded, that was an aisle.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On Mar 8, 3:46 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Andre Jute wrote:
> >> [...]
> >> not to mention that sockethead screws are available only in a limited
> >> range of sizes at a single hardware store in a fifty mile radius (he
> >> got them in for me for something else).[...]

> Tom Sherman wrote:
> > There is a whole isle devoted to threaded fasteners at my local Farm &
> > Fleet store, including every normal "English" and "Metric" size hex-head
> > bolts.

>
> Unless your Farm+Fleet is flooded, that was an aisle.


Now, now, boys, no fighting between the pews. If the choirboys cannot
manage to be angelic, they should at least be good.

Andre Jute
Dean
St Edward Dolan the Doleful
Upper Chipping Sodbury
 
Andre Jute wrote:
> [...]
> Andre Jute
> Dean
> St Edward Dolan the Doleful
> Upper Chipping Sodbury
>

Interesting signature line.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful