Extend steerer on threaded fork?

[garage sale GT]

Anyone know how to add about 30mm to the steerer on a threaded fork? Is there maybe some sort of adapter sleeve that would thread on to the old threads? I want to swap a fork over to a frame with a longer steering bracket. It's a 25.4mm threaded fork.

 

[daveornee]

Anyone know how to add about 30mm to the steerer on a threaded fork? Is there maybe some sort of adapter sleeve that would thread on to the old threads? I want to swap a fork over to a frame with a longer steering bracket. It's a 25.4mm threaded fork.

I don't think such a thing exists. If it did, I wouldn't know how it would work or if it worked how reliable it would be. I just can't visualize a marketable and reliable solution.... but I will standby to learn.
I think a swap out is called for. I know I have now 3 forks sitting around looking for a home... not anything that will help you on this one, but maybe we should start a "fork exchange" to give people a chance to find what they need without having to buy new and/or switching from threaded to unthreaded, etc.
Having all the fork tools (and sometimes extra headset parts) required is a major expense. Crown race pullers, Crown Race setters, etc. are something that most don't invest in as they costs so much and are used so infrequently.

 

[garage sale GT]

Thanks much for the help. You're a wheelbuilder, right? i.e. in the business, see lots of bikes, etc.

 

[daveornee]

Thanks much for the help. You're a wheelbuilder, right? i.e. in the business, see lots of bikes, etc.

Yes, I build lots of wheels.
I see lots of spokes, nipples, rims, and hubs.
I see quite a few bicycles.
If on had the steerer tube extension on it I wouldn't know.
I think it would be hidden, but I don't see how it cound be reliably assembled.

 

[gclark8]

I have seen replacement Crowns and Steerer Tube assy for MTBs, nothing for road bikes.

 

[daveornee]

Yes, I build lots of wheels.
I see lots of spokes, nipples, rims, and hubs.
I see quite a few bicycles.
If on had the steerer tube extension on it I wouldn't know.
I think it would be hidden, but I don't see how it cound be reliably assembled.

I think whatever viable solution you could find would require some welding or brazing. Anything that you could thread together would interfere with assembly.

 

[bobbyOCR]

I think you are outta luck. Even a brazed or welded tube isn't going to be as reliable as the original. Never heard of such a thing either.

 

[nerdag]

Anyone know how to add about 30mm to the steerer on a threaded fork? Is there maybe some sort of adapter sleeve that would thread on to the old threads? I want to swap a fork over to a frame with a longer steering bracket. It's a 25.4mm threaded fork.

One possible solution may be to swap the headset for a 1" threadless headset, and then stick a 1" threaded to 1" threadless adapter onto it, and then use standard threadless stems.

Profile Design make one, IIRC, and a few eBay sellers sell them.

Won't be as stiff or tough as an intact steerer tube, but i have done this on an older bike which I converted to a fixie (don't have it anymore, unfortunately).

Of course, it will depend on whether you can get enough length from the adapter to meet your needs.

n

 

[bobbyOCR]

One possible solution may be to swap the headset for a 1" threadless headset, and then stick a 1" threaded to 1" threadless adapter onto it, and then use standard threadless stems.

Profile Design make one, IIRC, and a few eBay sellers sell them.

Won't be as stiff or tough as an intact steerer tube, but i have done this on an older bike which I converted to a fixie (don't have it anymore, unfortunately).

Of course, it will depend on whether you can get enough length from the adapter to meet your needs.

n

Maybe, but. I don't think a threadless adapter could accomodate a star-nut needed for compression. I may be overlooking some things, but I'm not sure if that is a great idea.

 

[nerdag]

Maybe, but. I don't think a threadless adapter could accomodate a star-nut needed for compression. I may be overlooking some things, but I'm not sure if that is a great idea.

What I did was put a sh!tload of weight on the front end when I was tightening the adapter's wedge. Its not easy to get the load on the bearings right, but once done, you shouldn't have to touch it, and it works well enough.

Having said that, though, I wouldn't be screaming down a hill at 60km/h on it.

There's a reason I used it on a fixie conversion!

n

 

[bobbyOCR]

What I did was put a sh!tload of weight on the front end when I was tightening the adapter's wedge. Its not easy to get the load on the bearings right, but once done, you shouldn't have to touch it, and it works well enough.

Having said that, though, I wouldn't be screaming down a hill at 60km/h on it.

There's a reason I used it on a fixie conversion!

n

I know what you mean. The headset on my fixie conversion is permanently loose, I just can't be bothered taking a wrench to it. I am proud of my 4 minute can't-find-a-cable-hanger-so-I'll-drill-the-stem to use my canti brake.

 

[garage sale GT]

I know what you mean. The headset on my fixie conversion is permanently loose, I just can't be bothered taking a wrench to it. I am proud of my 4 minute can't-find-a-cable-hanger-so-I'll-drill-the-stem to use my canti brake.

If there's a hole in your stem there may soon be a hole in your sternum. I hope you check that thing for cracks frequently!!!!

 

[artemidorus]

If there's a hole in your stem there may soon be a hole in your sternum. I hope you check that thing for cracks frequently!!!!

Back in the canti era, stems were commonly drilled through to hang the brake cable. I don't think that they were especially reinforced, although they were usually steel.

 

[bobbyOCR]

If there's a hole in your stem there may soon be a hole in your sternum. I hope you check that thing for cracks frequently!!!!

mate...I know what I'm doing.....Mechanics for T-mobile drilled Deda Newton alloy stems for PR. This is a tank of a steel stem.

 

[garage sale GT]

Thanks for the help everyone but when considering a kluge job you have to say to yourself "is what I am saving worth it vs. getting it done right?"

A new fork is on the way.

 

[Bigbananabike]

I think you are outta luck. Even a brazed or welded tube isn't going to be as reliable as the original. Never heard of such a thing either.

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A welded join(not brazed) will be as strong as the original steerer. It all depends on how its done. If it has a sleeve inserted in the inside it will be even stronger.

 

[garage sale GT]

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A welded join(not brazed) will be as strong as the original steerer. It all depends on how its done. If it has a sleeve inserted in the inside it will be even stronger.

Probably not, unless you find a way to heat treat the steerer tube without ruining the aluminum fork crown.

 

[Bigbananabike]

Probably not, unless you find a way to heat treat the steerer tube without ruining the aluminum fork crown.

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If its steel using a MIG welder is a isolated heat way of welding(don't have to use wet bags etc to isolate the heat to that area), if its aluminium then the rest of the fork can be in a water bath or have wet bags on it.

 

[garage sale GT]

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If its steel using a MIG welder is a isolated heat way of welding(don't have to use wet bags etc to isolate the heat to that area), if its aluminium then the rest of the fork can be in a water bath or have wet bags on it.

What does that have to do with heat treating the welded area, as well as the region around it which is softened by the heat of welding? I guarantee a steerer tube is either heat treated or cold drawn.

 

[Bigbananabike]

What does that have to do with heat treating the welded area, as well as the region around it which is softened by the heat of welding? I guarantee a steerer tube is either heat treated or cold drawn.

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I give up - I'm not having a battle of wits with an unarmed opponent....