P
Peter Clinch
Guest
Richard wrote:
> Shirley it's an (almost) worst case scenario
A factor 2[*] fall is *the* worst case scenario, and that's why it's
used as the test.
> protection (pitons, through which the rope is passed) periodically.
Point of order, m'lud: pitons (pegs) are very rare these days in rock
climbing, and not /that/ common in winter climbing. Protection more
typically takes the form of wedges or cams placed in cracks, and these
are linked to the rope by karabiners (clips that spring shut).
But pitons or wedges or cams can only be placed if there's anywhere to
put them: a blank wall doesn't allow anything.
> get to the length of the rope, and then fall, and every piton comes
> loose without stopping you -
If they slow you down a bit before they rip that may help, or just give
another jerk to rattle your body a bit... ;-/ Just because the rope
won't fail doesn't mean it ain't gonna hurt... :-(
Pete.
[*] distance fallen divided by length of rope between faller and anchor
IIRC. It doesn't have to be the whole rope length.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
> Shirley it's an (almost) worst case scenario
A factor 2[*] fall is *the* worst case scenario, and that's why it's
used as the test.
> protection (pitons, through which the rope is passed) periodically.
Point of order, m'lud: pitons (pegs) are very rare these days in rock
climbing, and not /that/ common in winter climbing. Protection more
typically takes the form of wedges or cams placed in cracks, and these
are linked to the rope by karabiners (clips that spring shut).
But pitons or wedges or cams can only be placed if there's anywhere to
put them: a blank wall doesn't allow anything.
> get to the length of the rope, and then fall, and every piton comes
> loose without stopping you -
If they slow you down a bit before they rip that may help, or just give
another jerk to rattle your body a bit... ;-/ Just because the rope
won't fail doesn't mean it ain't gonna hurt... :-(
Pete.
[*] distance fallen divided by length of rope between faller and anchor
IIRC. It doesn't have to be the whole rope length.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/