First commute on road bike.



S

Simon Mason

Guest
Since I was on 0800 -1600 today and it was sunny, decided to
take the new road bike to work. I had to take a different
route than when I use my hybrid as I was obsessed with
avoiding glass and the off roads paths I use are covered
with the stuff. Riding position took some getting used to as
did the Campy Ergo levers.

Spent most of the time staring at the road surface on the
lookout for glass as I am used to puncture proof tyres such
as the Schwalbe Marathon Plus and these were 21 mm
Vredestein Ricotta cheese, or whatever.

Seemed a lot of people wanted to take me on, commuters on
MTBs with knobbles on and roadies. Couldn't see 'em off as I
wasn't confident on the bike re gears and handling and I was
on my way to work and didn't want to arrive early - well
that's my excuse.

Good news was that the docks road had been completely
renewed and the tarmac was very smooth and fast, bad news
was there are 20% HGVs on that road and I had to negotiate
four very fast roundabouts that usually avoid by using a
converted railway line.

Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot of
weight on the hands, something that will limit long distance
rides and I can't put the bars any higher to reduce load.

Still, didn't get a flat even though the back tyre nearly
got a snake bite - those tyres bottom out easily compared
to a 36 mm tyre and once I'd decided to relax and stop
worrying it started to become enjoyable.

There seemed to be a buzzing around the bottom bracket when
spinning fast which is worrying. Once I've got used to it I
think I'll commute on it all summer long, excepting rain as
I'm not putting guards on it.
--
Simon Mason Anlaby East Yorkshire. 53°44'N 0°26'W
http://www.simonmason.karoo.net
 
Sounds like you are not dissappointed with your new
purchase. You'll get used to the new position given time.
 
> Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot
> of weight on the hands, something that will limit long
> distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
> reduce load.

That's the thing that anmoys me a bit about my drop bars.
The cheapo gloves I got from Lidl help a lot tho - the hard
padding on the heel of the hand spreads the weight a bit. On
the plus side ebery time there's a head wind you forgive the
drop bars all their faults :)
 
On Thu, 25 Mar 2004 19:31:07 -0000, "Simon Mason"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Since I was on 0800 -1600 today and it was sunny, decided
>to take the new road bike to work. I had to take a
>different route than when I use my hybrid as I was obsessed
>with avoiding glass and the off roads paths I use are
>covered with the stuff. Riding position took some getting
>used to as did the Campy Ergo levers.
>
>Spent most of the time staring at the road surface on the
>lookout for glass as I am used to puncture proof tyres such
>as the Schwalbe Marathon Plus and these were 21 mm
>Vredestein Ricotta cheese, or whatever.
>
>Seemed a lot of people wanted to take me on, commuters on
>MTBs with knobbles on and roadies. Couldn't see 'em off as
>I wasn't confident on the bike re gears and handling and I
>was on my way to work and didn't want to arrive early -
>well that's my excuse.
>
> Good news was that the docks road had been completely
> renewed and the tarmac was very smooth and fast, bad news
> was there are 20% HGVs on that road and I had to negotiate
> four very fast roundabouts that usually avoid by using a
> converted railway line.
>
>Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot of
>weight on the hands, something that will limit long
>distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
>reduce load.

Depending on how high the bars are to begin with[and you
could always get an adjustable stem for that bike anyway],
you might want to consider 'aero bars' to resolve that
problem. I got a pair for my tourer[if I can call it that]
and wouldn't be without them. Numb hands are not my idea of
an enjoyable time.

garryb

> Still, didn't get a flat even though the back tyre nearly
> got a snake bite - those tyres bottom out easily compared
> to a 36 mm tyre and once I'd decided to relax and stop
> worrying it started to become enjoyable.
>
>There seemed to be a buzzing around the bottom bracket when
>spinning fast which is worrying. Once I've got used to it I
>think I'll commute on it all summer long, excepting rain as
>I'm not putting guards on it.
 
Simon Mason wrote:

> Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot
> of weight on the hands, something that will limit long
> distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
> reduce load.

I've got to be honest, I think the bike is far too small for
you. I'm the same height and ride a 60cm road bike. I hope
you'll manage to get comfortable on it somehow, or perhaps
eventually swap it for a larger one without loosing too much
money. Good luck anyway.

~PB
 
Simon Mason wrote:
> Still, didn't get a flat even though the back tyre nearly
> got a snake bite - those tyres bottom out easily compared
> to a 36 mm tyre

Shouldn't get anywhere near to bottoming out if they're
pumped up properly, even on terribly bumpy roads. I think in
this case you should pump rear tyre to the max pressure
stated on the sidewall, using a track pump with a gauge,
then try lower pressures in future if ride feels too harsh.

> There seemed to be a buzzing around the bottom bracket
> when spinning fast which is worrying.

If nothing is rubbing, it could just be the natural noise of
the chain on chainring amplified by the frame, which might
happen to be much louder than what you're used to on other
bikes. I can't get over how loud the transmission is on my
road bike is. The exact same stuff was hardly audible on my
previous frame. Trivial things like bottle cages or cables
can often cause alarming buzzes and clicks as well.

~PB
 
Sorry I didn't combine all these replies but I keep thinking
of more points....

Simon Mason wrote:
> Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot
> of weight on the hands, something that will limit long
> distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
> reduce load.

If sticking with the frame, it's gotta be worth doing
something about the bar height. Judging from the pics, the
position might be okay for some wickedly fast short rides or
time trialing (if stem reach is long enough that is). Forks
with a longer steerer and a different stem might do the job
for longer distances.

~PB
 
"Pete Biggs" <pclemantine{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sorry I didn't combine all these replies but I keep
> thinking of more points....
>
> Simon Mason wrote:
> > Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot
> > of weight on the hands, something that will limit long
> > distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
> > reduce load.
>
> If sticking with the frame, it's gotta be worth doing
> something about the bar height. Judging from the pics, the
> position might be okay for some wickedly fast short rides
> or time trialing (if stem reach is long enough that is).
> Forks with a longer steerer and a different stem might do
> the job for longer distances.

Thanks for all the advice - I'll persevere with it for a
while, like the other chap said, I might get used to it.
About the frame size, it is a fair bit smaller than the
hybrid, but I note that a lot of road bikes are compact now
anyway and you tailor it to your size by adjusting the seat
height and bars, so didn't think it was *that* much of a
factor, the frame size.

I shall have to get a better pump though, the one I've got
now won't get enough air in to stop the things hitting the
rim. Other than that it's a very nice ride, except I'm
having to get used to not being able to go off road.
Cheers, Simon M.
 
"Pete Biggs" <pclemantine{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Simon Mason wrote:
>
> > Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot
> > of weight on the hands, something that will limit long
> > distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
> > reduce load.
>
> I've got to be honest, I think the bike is far too small
> for you. I'm the same height and ride a 60cm road bike.

I agree, I'm afraid. It would probably be about right for
little old me at slightly under 5' 7''.

--
Dave...
 
Simon Mason wrote:

> "Pete Biggs" <pclemantine{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote in
> message news:[email protected]
> berlin.de...
>
>>Sorry I didn't combine all these replies but I keep
>>thinking of more points....
>>
>>Simon Mason wrote:
>>
>>>Soon got sick of hand position on the bars, seemed a lot
>>>of weight on the hands, something that will limit long
>>>distance rides and I can't put the bars any higher to
>>>reduce load.
>>
>>If sticking with the frame, it's gotta be worth doing
>>something about the bar height. Judging from the pics, the
>>position might be okay for some wickedly fast short rides
>>or time trialing (if stem reach is long enough that is).
>>Forks with a longer steerer and a different stem might do
>>the job for longer distances.
>
>
> Thanks for all the advice - I'll persevere with it for a
> while, like the other chap said, I might get used to it.
> About the frame size, it is a fair bit smaller than the
> hybrid, but I note that a lot of road bikes are compact
> now anyway and you tailor it to your size by adjusting
> the seat height and bars, so didn't think it was *that*
> much of a factor, the frame size.
>
> I shall have to get a better pump though, the one I've got
> now won't get enough air in to stop the things hitting the
> rim. Other than that it's a very nice ride, except I'm
> having to get used to not being able to go off road.
> Cheers, Simon M.
>
>
>

I'm no expert (by a long way) but I would have thought that
a small frame would have a small top tube as well, so the
bars would be a lot closer to you than normal - something
you can't really adjust for with stem/seat height.

Velvet
 
"Velvet" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Simon Mason wrote:

> >
>
> I'm no expert (by a long way) but I would have thought
> that a small frame would have a small top tube as
> well, so the bars would be a lot closer to you than
> normal - something you can't really adjust for with
> stem/seat height.
>
> Velvet

garryb (above) mentioned aero bars as a way around
that problem.

Simon
 
Simon Mason wrote:
> "Velvet" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:vaT8c.3431$7N5.30936134@news-
> text.cableinet.net...
>
>>Simon Mason wrote:
>
>
>>I'm no expert (by a long way) but I would have thought
>>that a small frame would have a small top tube as
>>well, so the bars would be a lot closer to you than
>>normal - something you can't really adjust for with
>>stem/seat height.
>>
>>Velvet
>
>
> garryb (above) mentioned aero bars as a way around that
> problem.
>
> Simon
>
>
Ah, now I meant to reply to that post... what are aero bars,
and how are they different to normal drops (assuming they're
still drops)?

Velvet
 
"Simon Mason" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> garryb (above) mentioned aero bars as a way around that
> problem.

A recent discovery of mine with regard to this problem was
to try holding the vertical part of the drops. I find that
it keeps the wrists straight and stops you from locking your
arms which does reduce the discomfort (At least on short
journeys, I haven't tried it over distance yet).

The other possibility is to move up onto the top of the
bars. For long straights it's very comfortable (Although not
as aero!) and you can very quickly get down to the drops if
you need to. In fact, moving around the bars can be a good
thing anyway. On my compact Giant I tend to ride a lot on
the brake hoods as a half-way position to the drops.

Try adjusting the angle of the bars themselves, flipping the
stem (Assuming it's not already angled up) or getting a
shorter / higher stem.

Have you tried sprinting hard yet. You should find that
you'll be very quick off at the lights! ;-)

Jon

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-
virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.624 /
Virus Database: 401 - Release Date: 15/03/2004
 
On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 10:30:59 GMT, Velvet wrote:

> Ah, now I meant to reply to that post... what are aero
> bars, and how are they different to normal drops (assuming
> they're still drops)?
>
> Velvet

They're the 'horns' you see on triathlon and time trial
bikes that position the hands close to the centre line of
the bike and make it more aerodynamic.

To me it seems rather strange to suggest fitting these to
any bike in order to improve its fit - particularly if it's
going to be used for commuting.

--
Michael MacClancy Random putdown - "They never open their
mouths without subtracting from the sum of human knowledge."
- Thomas Brackett Reed www.macclancy.demon.co.uk
www.macclancy.co.uk
 
"Velvet" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:D[email protected]...

> Ah, now I meant to reply to that post... what are aero
> bars, and how are they different to normal drops (assuming
> they're still drops)?
>
> Velvet

Go to Google.com, type in "aero bars" and click on "images"
and then "Google search" and lo and behold :) Simon M.
 
"Jon Senior" <jon_AT_restlesslemon.co.uk> wrote in message
>
> A recent discovery of mine with regard to this problem was
> to try holding the vertical part of the drops. I find that
> it keeps the wrists straight
and
> stops you from locking your arms which does reduce the
> discomfort (At
least
> on short journeys, I haven't tried it over distance yet).

I've tried various positions Jon and find that on the
vertical part of the drops my hands tend to go backwards,
ie palms facing way from each other. Don't know why.

> The other possibility is to move up onto the top of the
> bars. For long straights it's very comfortable (Although
> not as aero!) and you can very quickly get down to the
> drops if you need to. In fact, moving around the bars can
> be a good thing anyway. On my compact Giant I tend to
> ride a lot
on
> the brake hoods as a half-way position to the drops.

On top of the bars is where I feel most pressure as it
turns out. I haven't gone down on the drops much yet as I
was on my first commute and wanted to get used to things
first. When I get a bit more confidence I can have an extra
15 minutes in bed :)

> Try adjusting the angle of the bars themselves, flipping
> the stem
(Assuming
> it's not already angled up) or getting a shorter /
> higher stem.

Yes, I'll tinker around a bit and see what works.

> Have you tried sprinting hard yet. You should find that
> you'll be very
quick
> off at the lights! ;-)

Yes, once you get used to the Ergo shifters it's like
wotsit of a stick, especially since I've got 25 000 miles
on a 42 lb hybrid in my legs, heart and lungs :) On a
newly laid fast A road you can actually feel it instantly
shifting forward with each pedal stroke -whereas on the
hybrid I suppose the frame irons that feeling out.

Simon M.
 
"Michael MacClancy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 26 Mar 2004 10:30:59 GMT, Velvet wrote:
>
>
> > Ah, now I meant to reply to that post... what are aero
> > bars, and how are they different to normal drops
> > (assuming they're still drops)?
> >
> > Velvet
>
> They're the 'horns' you see on triathlon and time trial
> bikes that
position
> the hands close to the centre line of the bike and make it
> more aerodynamic.
>
> To me it seems rather strange to suggest fitting these to
> any bike in
order
> to improve its fit - particularly if it's going to be used
> for commuting.

It's not really for commuting, I find no problem doing only
12 miles, it's when I want to do 100 or more that it might
be useful to have somewhere to park my hands to relieve the
pressure by stretching out.

Simon M.
 
Simon Mason wrote:

> "Velvet" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:DDT8c.3448$6Z5.31067187@news-
> text.cableinet.net...
>
>
>>Ah, now I meant to reply to that post... what are aero
>>bars, and how are they different to normal drops (assuming
>>they're still drops)?
>>
>>Velvet
>
>
> Go to Google.com, type in "aero bars" and click on
> "images" and then "Google search" and lo and behold :)
> Simon M.
>
>
Pffft. It was far too early in the morning for me to be
thinking of sensible ways to find out :p

Velvet
 
"Simon Mason" <[email protected]>typed

> Still, didn't get a flat even though the back tyre nearly
> got a snake bite - those tyres bottom out easily compared
> to a 36 mm tyre and once I'd decided to relax and stop
> worrying it started to become enjoyable.

What pressure are you running in your tyres? I don't think
you should be bottoming ot...

--
Helen D. Vecht: [email protected] Edgware.
 
"Jon Senior" <jon_AT_restlesslemon.co.uk> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> The point with the compact frames was to reduce frame
> weight, by taking advantage of the MTB long seat posts and
> stems and making a small frame.

Not really. The point of compact frames is to reduce costs
for the manufacturer by allowing them to produce a smaller
range of frame sizes. The weight saving is an illusion as
the extra seat post weighs as much as the missing tubes.

> There is a lot of adjustment possible with them and
> they do tend to be smaller than a standard frame for a
> given rider.

There is a lot of adjustment, it's true. Simon will probably
be able to get the bike to fit him by experimenting with
long seat posts and stems (I hope so anyway) but I still
think he would have been better off with a larger frame in
the first place. I don't think compact frames really have
any advantages for tall riders. They can benefit very short
riders, however, by offering a greater standover clearance.

--
Dave...
 

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