first step to my first fixie...

Discussion in 'Australia and New Zealand' started by Kim Hawtin, Sep 5, 2005.

  1. Kim Hawtin

    Kim Hawtin Guest

    Hi guys,

    wrangled with my old 10speed Repco 27" roadie last week.
    its now a single speed =) nice chainline between the ~42 front and ~15 rear..
    no more mangled deraluer front or rear...

    i've chopped a good six inches out of the chain and its a bit loose,
    but taking out one more link means the rear hub has almost no dropout
    to bite into when done up...

    was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

    anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

    cheers,

    kim
     
    Tags:


  2. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    Kim Hawtin wrote:
    > Hi guys,
    >
    > wrangled with my old 10speed Repco 27" roadie last week.
    > its now a single speed =) nice chainline between the ~42 front and ~15 rear..
    > no more mangled deraluer front or rear...
    >
    > i've chopped a good six inches out of the chain and its a bit loose,
    > but taking out one more link means the rear hub has almost no dropout
    > to bite into when done up...
    >
    > was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >
    > anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?
    >
    > cheers,
    >
    > kim



    Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
    wheel spins freely.

    See what the chain tension gnome says:
    http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2633

    And of course Sheldon:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedb.html#tension


    Now the really good news - you can just screw a track cog onto that hub,
    fix the spacing and redish the wheel and you've got a fixed gear.

    --
    Nick
     
  3. Kim

    Kim Guest

    NoZX6R wrote:
    > Kim wrote:
    >> was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >>
    >> anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

    >
    > Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
    > wheel spins freely.


    not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

    > See what the chain tension gnome says:
    > http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2633
    >
    > And of course Sheldon:
    > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedb.html#tension
    >
    > Now the really good news - you can just screw a track cog onto that hub,
    > fix the spacing and redish the wheel and you've got a fixed gear.


    ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

    and the track cog screws onto the hub?

    hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)
    this is fun!

    cheers,

    Kim
     
  4. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    Kim wrote:
    > NoZX6R wrote:
    >
    >>Kim wrote:
    >>
    >>>was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >>>
    >>>anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

    >>
    >>Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
    >>wheel spins freely.

    >
    >
    > not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)
    >
    >


    If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
    it's _really_ loose.

    >
    > ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?
    >
    > and the track cog screws onto the hub?
    >

    yep

    > hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)


    yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
    sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

    > this is fun!
    >
    > cheers,
    >
    > Kim
     
  5. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    Kim wrote:
    > NoZX6R wrote:
    >
    >>Kim wrote:
    >>
    >>>was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >>>
    >>>anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

    >>
    >>Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
    >>wheel spins freely.

    >
    >
    > not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)
    >
    >


    If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
    it's _really_ loose.

    >
    > ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?
    >
    > and the track cog screws onto the hub?
    >

    yep

    > hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)


    yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
    sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

    > this is fun!
    >
    > cheers,
    >
    > Kim
     
  6. Resound

    Resound Guest

    "Kim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > NoZX6R wrote:
    >> Kim wrote:
    >>> was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >>>
    >>> anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

    >>
    >> Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
    >> wheel spins freely.

    >
    > not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)
    >
    >> See what the chain tension gnome says:
    >> http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2633
    >>
    >> And of course Sheldon:
    >> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedb.html#tension
    >>
    >> Now the really good news - you can just screw a track cog onto that hub,
    >> fix the spacing and redish the wheel and you've got a fixed gear.

    >
    > ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?
    >
    > and the track cog screws onto the hub?
    >
    > hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)
    > this is fun!
    >
    > cheers,
    >
    > Kim


    I screwed my cog on by hand and tightened it by dint of going for a good
    stomping ride. Worked a treat.
     
  7. Koon Yong

    Koon Yong New Member

    Joined:
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    If you're using you're old road wheel, you need a bottom bracket lockring not a track one. They have different diameters. Lockring and locktite are a good idea. However, if you can't be bothered just make sure you use your brake alot and try not to resist the pedal motion too often.

    With chain tension, generally you need about 1/2 inch of movement when you hold the middle of the top line of your chain. This is assuming that your ring and cog are perfectly round. You might need to loosen abit more depending on whether there are any tight spots through the rotation of drive. What Nick says is spot on ... definately check out those sites.

    koon
     
  8. Kim Hawtin

    Kim Hawtin Guest

    NoZX6R wrote:
    > Kim wrote:
    >> NoZX6R wrote:
    >>> Kim wrote:
    >>>> was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >>> Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
    >>> wheel spins freely.

    >> not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

    > If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
    > it's _really_ loose.


    had a play with it this mornen, theres about an inch and a half of travel =/

    i got myself a good chainbreaker/unbreaker, so putting it in is no problem,
    so maybe a half-link?

    >> ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?
    >> and the track cog screws onto the hub?

    > yep


    too easy. whats one of those gunna cost? =)

    >> hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

    > yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
    > sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.


    i have a similar vintage bike in the shed that can donate its lock ring =D

    cheers,

    kim
    ~ wonder if gemma has any of track cogs laying around she would like to part with ;)
     
  9. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    Koon Yong wrote:
    > NoZX6R Wrote:
    >
    >>Kim wrote:
    >>
    >>>NoZX6R wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>Kim wrote:
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>>was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
    >>>>>
    >>>>>anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?
    >>>>
    >>>>Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that

    >>
    >>the
    >>
    >>>>wheel spins freely.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)
    >>>
    >>>

    >>
    >>If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
    >>it's _really_ loose.
    >>
    >>
    >>>ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?
    >>>
    >>>and the track cog screws onto the hub?
    >>>

    >>
    >>yep
    >>
    >>
    >>>hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

    >>
    >>yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
    >>sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.
    >>
    >>
    >>>this is fun!
    >>>
    >>>cheers,
    >>>
    >>>Kim

    >
    >
    > If you're using you're old road wheel, you need a bottom bracket
    > lockring not a track one. They have different diameters.


    oops :)
    Well I must admit, I've never actually fixed a freewheel hub myself.
    Thanks for the correction.

    --
    Nick

    > koon
    >
    >
     
  10. NoZX6R

    NoZX6R Guest

    Kim Hawtin wrote:
    <snip>
    >
    >
    > too easy. whats one of those gunna cost? =)


    Last track cog I bought was a Dura Ace and cost $45.

    You can buy cheaper ones but there's not much choice in Aus.

    <snip>
    >
    > cheers,
    >
    > kim


    --
    Nick
     
  11. Koon Yong

    Koon Yong New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2003
    Messages:
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    0
    Dura Ace is a good bet. Easy to get in either 3/32 or 1/8 chain width. Not a bad price depending on which shop you go to ($40-50). You're quite limited in cog sizes though (13 to 16 teeth). If you don't want to change the front ring of your bike, I'd sugguest go with a 3/32 width so everything matches.

    Crap no name cogs are about $15. I've bought some before and trust me, you don't want to use them. The only advantage of the crap cogs is that you can get them in 18T.

    You can also try sugino, campy and miche. Most track friendly shops should be able to get them, but I've no experience with those brands.

    Cheers
    Koon
     
  12. Brian Watson

    Brian Watson Guest

    Koon Yong wrote:
    [..snip..]

    > Dura Ace is a good bet. Easy to get in either 3/32 or 1/8 chain width.
    > Not a bad price depending on which shop you go to ($40-50).


    Ouch - you have expensive shops down there. I have bought 2 Dura-Ace
    cogs in the last year or so. Both were about $30 (maybe $32), one
    included postage from a shop a few suburbs away 'cos I couldn't be
    bothered driving there and one was ordered in special from Shimano by my
    LBS.

    Brian
     
  13. hippy

    hippy New Member

    Joined:
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    They appear on ebay from time to time too. Gemma has/had a shopfront setup and there's some international sellers that will surely have them. No idea on prices though - that's your job. :)

    hippy
     
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