Fitting a Road Bike



Jaguar27

New Member
Sep 19, 2003
648
0
0
I am new to this Game, so sorry for the Daft questions...but...

About 3 months ago, I bought a Felt Road Bike from Supergo, I'm about 5' 10" tall, I test rode and bought a 54cm, when I stand over the Bike I have less than an inch clearance between the Top Bar and my "best friends"...

Anyway, I've done about 300 miles on the Bike, and as I was riding today I got some grating from the Gears etc, so decided to take the Bike into my LBS, a Guy I really trust, he's an ex-pro and has been selling/repairing high-end Bike for 25 years...

Anyway, he's going to re-true the Wheels, re-set the Brakes, the durailleurs etc...a full tune-up...

But he says the Bike is too small for me...I should have bought a 56 :confused:

The Bike is VERY comfortable, I have the peddle circle sorted out, although he said he's going to move the Brakes further up the Bars so I can reach the Pods better etc...and re-wrap the Bar tape...

But am I correct in thinking the first thing that must fit on a Road Bike is the stand over height? I know I probably couldn't stand over a 56, but I did stand over a 56 Cannondale in his shop, but Felts come big, right?

can 2cm really make that much difference anyway?

Any help is appreciated, I intend to trade-up later this year and don't want to make the same mistake again :(
 
Originally posted by Jaguar27
I am new to this Game, so sorry for the Daft questions...but...

About 3 months ago, I bought a Felt Road Bike from Supergo, I'm about 5' 10" tall, I test rode and bought a 54cm, when I stand over the Bike I have less than an inch clearance between the Top Bar and my "best friends"...

Anyway, I've done about 300 miles on the Bike, and as I was riding today I got some grating from the Gears etc, so decided to take the Bike into my LBS, a Guy I really trust, he's an ex-pro and has been selling/repairing high-end Bike for 25 years...

Anyway, he's going to re-true the Wheels, re-set the Brakes, the durailleurs etc...a full tune-up...

But he says the Bike is too small for me...I should have bought a 56 :confused:

The Bike is VERY comfortable, I have the peddle circle sorted out, although he said he's going to move the Brakes further up the Bars so I can reach the Pods better etc...and re-wrap the Bar tape...

But am I correct in thinking the first thing that must fit on a Road Bike is the stand over height? I know I probably couldn't stand over a 56, but I did stand over a 56 Cannondale in his shop, but Felts come big, right?

can 2cm really make that much difference anyway?

Any help is appreciated, I intend to trade-up later this year and don't want to make the same mistake again :(

I would see if your friend at the LBS will fit you correctly... In the mean time if you are curious try these 'fit kits' online:

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/ (Click on "fit calculator" located just below the pix of the fork).

or heres another one,

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm


(Smaller frames worked for Sean Kelly for all those years).

:D
 
There are certainly different ideas and systems for fitting the person to the machine. It can be useful to get advise and help, but at some point just riding the bike and see how it feels becomes important. It is also useful to measure out the bike's position. As you then change saddle angle/height, stems, etc., you can track what changes are helpful or not. See
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/roadposition.shtml
 
Originally posted by Jaguar27


But he says the Bike is too small for me...I should have bought a 56 :confused:

The Bike is VERY comfortable, I have the peddle circle sorted out, although he said he's going to move the Brakes further up the Bars so I can reach the Pods better etc...and re-wrap the Bar tape...

But am I correct in thinking the first thing that must fit on a Road Bike is the stand over height? I know I probably couldn't stand over a 56, but I did stand over a 56 Cannondale in his shop, but Felts come big, right?

can 2cm really make that much difference anyway?

Any help is appreciated, I intend to trade-up later this year and don't want to make the same mistake again :(
Maybe this guy is a moron, and maybe he just wants your money. Why is he moving the Shifters to you can reach then easier, but trying to sell you a bigger bike?? The important part here is the fact you are comfortable on the bike. Asuming you have adequate standover, and 1" is ok, then toptube length is most important and can be adjusted somewhat with stem length. Keep in mind that frames are measuerd c-c, c-t and c-top of extended seattube and all 56s are not the same.they don't all have the same TT length or seat angle either,both of which are important....Why buy a bike with he idea of trading up in the same year.Makes no sense.Ride the bike long enough to get some fitness and develope your own sense of whether it is right or not and what you might need in the way of adjustments or different size.
 
I could be wrong but I think custom fitting a bike are only guide lines but many people take it so seriously like bankers contract to the dot! I notice a lot of riders in TDF are much bigger than thier bikes they look like they're cycling kids bike if they're suppose to fit to the exact size then don't you think the factory bike would have custom frame made to thier size? what do you guys think?
 
Originally posted by skareb
I could be wrong but I think custom fitting a bike are only guide lines but many people take it so seriously like bankers contract to the dot! I notice a lot of riders in TDF are much bigger than thier bikes they look like they're cycling kids bike if they're suppose to fit to the exact size then don't you think the factory bike would have custom frame made to thier size? what do you guys think?
I think the TDF guys ride what works for them and are not the average cyclist. The top riders often do get custom,but the look will still be the same. There is the 'Euro Trash' look, and the Rivendell/Grant Perersen spin on fit. Most recreational riders would be better off with the latter,but that is not what the bike makers are pedaling.
 
Originally posted by boudreaux
Maybe this guy is a moron, and maybe he just wants your money. Why is he moving the Shifters to you can reach then easier, but trying to sell you a bigger bike?? The important part here is the fact you are comfortable on the bike. Asuming you have adequate standover, and 1" is ok, then toptube length is most important and can be adjusted somewhat with stem length. Keep in mind that frames are measuerd c-c, c-t and c-top of extended seattube and all 56s are not the same.they don't all have the same TT length or seat angle either,both of which are important....Why buy a bike with he idea of trading up in the same year.Makes no sense.Ride the bike long enough to get some fitness and develope your own sense of whether it is right or not and what you might need in the way of adjustments or different size.

Thanks for the reply boudreaux, I really like and respect our LBS Guy, I bought a Giant for my wife from him, she loves it..
But when I decided to buy a road Bike he recommended a $2000 Cannondale, he told me if I bought that Bike I'd be totally happy with it, and I must admit, it's a superb Bike, but I wasn't ready to spend $2000 on my first Bike, so I got the Felt for $456, on sale, I'm delighted with it but it was obviously put together in a hurry, so when I get it back from his tune-up and re-build it should be even nicer...

I'm already doing what you suggested, building up my fitness...I ride between 30 and 90 miles a week, depending on time constraints, but, when I first did the 30 mile run I couldn't walk properly for 3 Days, now I can do it in 1hr 30mins and do it again the next Day...I know it's not much but I'm really happy with how I've progressed...now I need someone to ride with and take some different routes with more Hills etc...

The reason he's moving the Brakes is because when I have the drops rotated in the most comfy position the Pods are too far away for comfort, does that make sense? So he's going to re-position them further up towards the Flats, this involves new Cables and re-wrapping the Bars with new Tape...the original Tape kept on seperating anyway....

But I love riding, and I think near the end of the year I'll beable to invest $2-3000 in a Bike with confidence and hopefully know exactly what is right for me...

But thanks for listening


;)
 
Different people have varying opinions on this subject and I don't doubt that if the guy that's giving you the advice is an ex-pro, that he is pretty firm on his opinion. However I know many people that will say that "as a rule of thumb, buy the smallest frame that doesn't sacrifice fit". It's stiffer and lighter.

An inch between the tube and the boys does not sound too small. To make you feel a little better, I'm 6 feet tall and I ride a 56cm. I can promise you my bike fits. I never knew it, but after measuring everything out, it turns out my torso is a little longer then average and my legs a little shorter then average for someone that is 6 feet tall. But that isn't to be confused with my dimensions being uncommon. The point is that there are so many body types/dimensions that an "average" is just a number. Very few people have average dimensions.

So, the fact is you've already given the bike the ultimate test. You've put on a good base of miles and know it feels great. After passing that test I wouldn't have let him change anything.
 
Originally posted by Postie
Different people have varying opinions on this subject and I don't doubt that if the guy that's giving you the advice is an ex-pro, that he is pretty firm on his opinion. However I know many people that will say that "as a rule of thumb, buy the smallest frame that doesn't sacrifice fit". It's stiffer and lighter.

An inch between the tube and the boys does not sound too small. To make you feel a little better, I'm 6 feet tall and I ride a 56cm. I can promise you my bike fits. I never knew it, but after measuring everything out, it turns out my torso is a little longer then average and my legs a little shorter then average for someone that is 6 feet tall. But that isn't to be confused with my dimensions being uncommon. The point is that there are so many body types/dimensions that an "average" is just a number. Very few people have average dimensions.

So, the fact is you've already given the bike the ultimate test. You've put on a good base of miles and know it feels great. After passing that test I wouldn't have let him change anything.

Hi Postie, Thanks for the reply....

As I've been riding and making adjustments I noticed I could never get a happy medium between rotating the drops to the right position and having the Brake Pods not point away from me towards the Road, when I took the Bike in, the second thing my LBS Guy told me was "The Brakes are in the wrong place"
So he moved them up towards the Flats, now I have the Drops in the right position and the Brake Pods are still parallel to the Road, I knew there was something amiss...

But anyway, he practically re-built the Bike, adjusted the (Tiagra) Gears, re-set the Brakes...trued the wheels, moved the Brakes and re-wrapped the Bars with new Tape...

I went for a 10 mile ride today and I have to say it feels like a different Bike, much better...

As my LBS Guy said when I stopped to thank him "You didn't KNOW any better"

So, after a few more months, with the help of Guys like you and other great People on this Board I'll beable to plonk a good chunk down on a Bike I'll keep for years....

Just gotta start saving and riding more I guess....
;)
 
I'd agree with Postie and boudreaux...,

The smallest frame that fits properly is best, and be keen on how different frames are measured at the top tube. I'm 6' tall, and all my frames are 55/56, depending on the manufacturer. Also, the seat tube length can vary as well, so keep this in mind. If you're 5'-10', then a 54/55 sounds about right.

As long as you feel comfortable, then it's likely not something to worry about. And when it comes time to purchase your dream bike, set aside a few dollars and have yourself fitted by a professional shop. Then you'll know without doubt. Good luck and ride safely.
 
Originally posted by Jaguar27
I'll beable to plonk a good chunk down on a Bike I'll keep for years.... [/B]


Nawwww. You'll want a new one at least every 2 years ;)

WANT is the key word here :D

ha!

C-
 
Originally posted by need11@46
I'd agree with Postie and boudreaux...,

The smallest frame that fits properly is best, and be keen on how different frames are measured at the top tube. I'm 6' tall, and all my frames are 55/56, depending on the manufacturer. Also, the seat tube length can vary as well, so keep this in mind. If you're 5'-10', then a 54/55 sounds about right.

As long as you feel comfortable, then it's likely not something to worry about. And when it comes time to purchase your dream bike, set aside a few dollars and have yourself fitted by a professional shop. Then you'll know without doubt. Good luck and ride safely.

Yes, they both make a lot of sense and so do you!!

I do feel very comfy on my 54cm Felt, my height was accurately measured at a health screening thing I went to yesterday and I am indeed 5' 10" tall...

I live in Southern California, so there is no "Bike season", so I have untill the end of the year to look into my next Bike, Maybe another Felt, a Cannondale, Klein....I dunno...what do you Guys think? What would you recommend for around $2K?
 
Originally posted by Jaguar27
Yes, they both make a lot of sense and so do you!!

I do feel very comfy on my 54cm Felt, my height was accurately measured at a health screening thing I went to yesterday and I am indeed 5' 10" tall...

I live in Southern California, so there is no "Bike season", so I have untill the end of the year to look into my next Bike, Maybe another Felt, a Cannondale, Klein....I dunno...what do you Guys think? What would you recommend for around $2K?

Jaguar27:

You may have a few options:

1. Purchase a complete bike in the $2K range.
2. Purchase a used bike in the $2K range.
3. Purchase a frame and fork in the $2K range and transfer the components from your current bike to the new frame.

Personally, I recommend the last option. The reason is that I feel the frame is the core of the bike. Conversely, a bad frame with the very best components does not make a great bike. You can always upgrade the components as your budget allows.

In your price range, you can get some very, very good custom made steel frames. If you can find the right buy, you might even procure a used titanium frame for this amount. Either way, I believe you'd be better off going this route.

Others may have options for you that I've not considered. Good luck.
 
Originally posted by need11@46
Jaguar27:

You may have a few options:

1. Purchase a complete bike in the $2K range.
2. Purchase a used bike in the $2K range.
3. Purchase a frame and fork in the $2K range and transfer the components from your current bike to the new frame.

Personally, I recommend the last option. The reason is that I feel the frame is the core of the bike. Conversely, a bad frame with the very best components does not make a great bike. You can always upgrade the components as your budget allows.

In your price range, you can get some very, very good custom made steel frames. If you can find the right buy, you might even procure a used titanium frame for this amount. Either way, I believe you'd be better off going this route.

Others may have options for you that I've not considered. Good luck.

need11@46 ,
Thank you for the reply and indeed, great advice...

I just bought a Cannondale, Saeco, for my wife which was built by our local LBS and happened to be her size, a 44cm...for their cost...seems like a very very nice Bike...

I am riding a relatively new Felt F85, I love it even though it's their entry level...it has Tiagra etc but Front durallieurs...but as my LBS said, I love it because I don't know any better, it's my first Road Bike...I do around 30-120 miles a week on it....

This may sound really strange, but I have hired a Pro Coach, only 2 hours per week, our first Ride is this Saturday, he's going to (try) and get me ready to ride with a local Club, I really want to ride with a group, but first of all, I need to beable to keep up and also not cause a pile-up

:(

I have a few more months to decide which Bike I really want, as you said, it might be better to buy a Complete one for $2K and be done with it...

Thanks again ;)