Fitting Campagnolo Ergos to TT Bull Horns

I'm building a set of TT bars with bullhorns and have a set of ergos ready to go. I'd like to mount them a la Christophe Moreau on his wikipedia entry (and others - see pic).

This will be for TTs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christophe_Moreau



Clearly, from the picture, it can be done, other pros have done it too.

There's no info around on how best to route the cables for it and from my mucking around so far the answer doesn't lie in using standard campanolo cables. They are too stiff.

Can this be solved with nokon?
would a bar with internal routing help?
what bar is Moraeu using in the photo?

If anyone has done this please let me know what the tricks are.

Thanks.

 

I don't know what Moreau's mechanic used, but ... YES, you can use NOKON housing to resolve the tight cable housing bend issue which you are encountering.

You definitely want internal cable routing, IMO -- mount the levers, mark the area near the end of the bar where the cable housing would enter if there were a hole AND drill a hole on each end of the bar, accordingly.

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Not sure if I like the idea of drilling holes in the bars. Never sure what that would do to the fatigue strength of the part.

So I'll now hunt down some appropritate "holey" bars.

So does anyone know what bars are on the B-Twin in the picture?

 

Merely choosing another set of cables is unlikely to solve the issue, it's a really vicious bend you have to achieve. Keep in mind that the cables have to be realigned by a full 180 degrees from where they were originally intended to go. I've had marginal success by grinding out the cable grooves in the lever base, so that I "only" had to fit a 90-deg bend in the bar.

I'm working on something to get Ergos fully functional on a bullhorn bar, but I've still got some ways to go.
Besides, the bend in the bar isn't "right" either, the one I'm building on places the lever dangerously close to the bar with an obvious risk of the lever bottoming out before getting acceptable braking power.
Flipping and chopping a drop bar will probably be better than starting from a bullhorn/TT base bar.

 

I had thought about chopping a bar but I have a bull horn at the moment which provides plenty of lever pulling room for the brakes. I also have a couple of old crash damaged lever bodies which I'd be more happy to grind out cable guides for. This sounds like a good option.

The pro-wrenches must have some kind of tight cable noodle to get that initial bend to happen smoothly.