Fitting cranks to splined BB axle

Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket? All
the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push the
crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough (by
hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put the
bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle? I'm reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if
the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
expected a close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.

Cheers

Chris

 

Actually, it's relatively simple. It's better to remove the cap that covers the crankbolt. Then you
can see the splines are lined up correctly. then tighten the bolt. The non-drive crankarm is same.
Then reinstall the cap over the crankbolt. Be sure to grease the splines, the washer under the
crankbolt and the underneath of the cap. Shimano specifies a torque of 305 to 435 inch pounds for
the crankbolt, which is a fair amount. "RandomChris" <[email protected]>
wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
> the crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put
> the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle?
I'm
> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could
> trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have expected
a
> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris

 

"RandomChris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
> the crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put
> the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle?
I'm
> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could
> trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have expected
a
> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.

Sucks don't it? Who dreams up this crap? It used to be quick to install cranks on a spindle.

You won't hurt the spindle but you might easily ruin the cranks so you were right to stop and
get advice.

Remove the crank bolt covers and the bolts. Either wet the spinde or not according to your religion
Place the arms on the spindle. Grease the brank bolts and the faces of those bolts. Torque to spec
and then install the crank covers.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971

 

"RandomChris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
> the crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put
> the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle?
I'm
> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could
> trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have expected
a
> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris
>
>

Can I ask what bottom bracket you have? Not all splines are created equal, esp. Shimano ones. With
the bolt out, as you have suggested you are doing, you should have no trouble fitting the crank to
the axle. My technique for getting them started is to take a 8mm hex bit (for socket wrench) and use
just it and my fingers to turn the bolt while 'feeling' for the splines to engage. It is impossible
to apply enough force to damage anything this way. I use self extracting bolts so it is a pain to
remove the caps and bolts every time I go to install the crank. I just use this 'feel' technique and
it seems to work fine for me.

Mike

Mike

Mike

 

On Wed, 22 Jan 2003 19:14:01 -0000, "RandomChris"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket? All
>the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push the
>crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough (by
>hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put the
>bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle? I'm reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and
>if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
>expected a close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
Just to confirm- you have a shimano octalink I compatible Bottom bracket right? Not an ISIS spline?

Bob

 

RandomChris wrote:
> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
> the crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put
> the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle? I'm reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti
> and if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would
> have expected a close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris
>
>
I don't know of any BBs with splined titanium spindles for shimano cranks. Phil Wood only has square
tapered ones.

Kenny Lee

 

news-<< Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom
bracket? << Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough (by hand) for the splined parts
to come into play

Sure you have the correct BB? The road spline type, not the XT-type(ES-31), that has fatter splines?

If you have cxorrect one-look into the crank end without the bolt and extracting cap on-line up the
'hills' of the BB spline with the 'valleys' of the crank, push on(you did grease it-yes?) and then
install the bolt and washer(35 ft-lbs)-THEN, grease the inside of the cap and install.

<< I'm reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti

Ti Octolink??

Perhaps it's a ISIS-not compatible then...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

 

Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original post clear enough!

I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's just with this one it seems
difficult/impossible to get the splines to 'mesh'.

The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility issue. They are from the 25th
anniversary group, which is why the bottom bracket spindle is made of titanium (one of the
differences between standard and the anniv edition).

I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The splines appear to be lined up but
no amount of fiddling will get the splined bit of the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank
bolt at this stage and begin to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I
stopped. I thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with the crank bolts to the
correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....

Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock on! Maybe it's not a precise fit
at the end and something's snagging?

I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is difficult to replace.

Cheers

Chris

RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
> the crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put
> the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle?
I'm
> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could
> trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have expected
a
> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris

 

The standard Shimano stuff is a pretty mild press fit. Normally I can push them on far enough by
hand so the splines just start to engage. I didn't realize the aniversary edition has a Ti spindle-
perhaps the tolerances are different.

You did remove the dust caps, right? If you haven't it's just about impossible to line the splines
up visually.

I guess i'd count spline numbers, and measure the spline width to make sure it at least
looks ballpark.

Bob

On Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:40:57 -0000, "RandomChris"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original post clear enough!
>
>I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's just with this one it seems
>difficult/impossible to get the splines to 'mesh'.
>
>The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility issue. They are from the 25th
>anniversary group, which is why the bottom bracket spindle is made of titanium (one of the
>differences between standard and the anniv edition).
>
>I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The splines appear to be lined up but
>no amount of fiddling will get the splined bit of the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank
>bolt at this stage and begin to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I
>stopped. I thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with the crank bolts to
>the correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....
>
>Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock on! Maybe it's not a precise
>fit at the end and something's snagging?
>
>I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is difficult to replace.
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
>> All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
>> the crank onto the axle. I can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
>> (by hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by hand, should I just put
>> the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle?
>I'm
>> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined up 100% correctly I could
>> trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have expected
>a
>> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Chris
>>
>

 

I've checked what you suggested and all seems fine.

Actually, what seems to be happening is that the crank is getting stuck (going no further) before it
even gets near the splines! i.e. misallignment of the splines isn't the issue. It seems to be BB
axle vs hole in crank width. Seems odd??

<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> The standard Shimano stuff is a pretty mild press fit. Normally I can push them on far enough by
> hand so the splines just start to engage. I didn't realize the aniversary edition has a Ti
> spindle- perhaps the tolerances are different.
>
>
> You did remove the dust caps, right? If you haven't it's just about impossible to line the splines
> up visually.
>
> I guess i'd count spline numbers, and measure the spline width to make sure it at least looks
> ballpark.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:40:57 -0000, "RandomChris"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original
post
> >clear enough!
> >
> >I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's just with this one it seems
> >difficult/impossible to get the splines to 'mesh'.
> >
> >The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility issue. They are from the 25th
> >anniversary group, which is why the bottom bracket spindle is made of titanium (one of the
> >differences between standard and
the
> >anniv edition).
> >
> >I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The splines appear to be lined up
> >but no amount of fiddling will get the splined bit
of
> >the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank bolt at this stage and
begin
> >to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I
stopped. I
> >thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with the
crank
> >bolts to the correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....
> >
> >Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock on! Maybe it's not a precise
> >fit at the end and something's snagging?
> >
> >I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is
difficult
> >to replace.
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in
message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> >> All the instructions I've found (Park's
website,
> >> those provided with the component) say to push the crank onto the axle.
I
> >> can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
(by
> >> hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by
hand,
> >> should I just put the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the
axle?
> >I'm
> >> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined
up
> >> 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
expected
> >a
> >> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on
by
> >> hand.
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>

 

> Who dreams up this crap? It used to be quick to install cranks on a spindle.

Uh, it still is with the right technique (I assume you hard-core Campy guys don't see enough Shimano
stuff to have figured this one out? ). As noted elsewhere just start the bolt with the end of an
allen key while wiggling the crank a bit to find the splines. Really easy, doesn't need you to
remove the dust caps (unlike the good old days, when the operation took longer and needed another
tool because the dust caps had to be removed and refitted).

 

As you've noted, you can't push a splined DA crank on by hand with the bolt in it. You can if
you remove the bolt, but that's not necessary. Here's how I do it: (w/no comment on greasing -
your call)

1. Without removing the cap/bolt, place the crank over the spindle, attempting to match up with the
splines, and thread the crank bolt in *lightly*.
2. As you *lightly* continue to thread the bolt in, you will feel resistance when the crank contacts
the spindle, most likely in a mis-aligned position. Do NOT continue tightening the bolt. But
don't loosen it either, at least not more than 1/8 of a turn. The slight pressure is useful for
the next step.
3. Grab the crank arm while holding the opposite end of the spindle and rotate (or wiggle) it back
and forth until you find the proper alignment. You can feel it "slot in" as it lines up.
4. Try threading the bolt in now; if you got it right, there won't be the resistance you felt
earlier, and the crank will move onto the spindle as you tighten the bolt. If you feel tension on
the bolt immediately without the the crank moving, you don't have it aligned - try again.
5. Repeat for the other side, noting alignment with the opposite crank.

Really not that difficult if you go slow and pay attention, but not as easy as it used to be. Like
so many things... ;-)

SB

"RandomChris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original post clear enough!
>
> I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's just with this one it seems
> difficult/impossible to get the splines to 'mesh'.
>
> The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility issue. They are from the 25th
> anniversary group, which is why the bottom bracket spindle is made of titanium (one of the
> differences between standard and
the
> anniv edition).
>
> I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The splines appear to be lined up
> but no amount of fiddling will get the splined bit
of
> the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank bolt at this stage and
begin
> to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I stopped.
I
> thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with the
crank
> bolts to the correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....
>
> Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock on! Maybe it's not a precise
> fit at the end and something's snagging?
>
> I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is
difficult
> to replace.
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris
>
> RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to a splined bottom bracket?
> > All the instructions I've found (Park's website, those provided with the component) say to push
> > the crank onto the axle.
I
> > can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
(by
> > hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by
hand,
> > should I just put the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the axle?
> I'm
> > reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined
up
> > 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
expected
> a
> > close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on by hand.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Chris
> >
>

 

I can't even wiggle the crank arm once it's partially on (1-2mm before it touches the splines). It's
either on or off, it's that stiff.

I'm going to take the bike and cranks to a bike shop tomorrow - forget all this messing about and
potential crank wreckage. I think I'd rather have someone who's installed octalink cranks before do
it. That way they will definitely know if the resistance I'm feeling when trying to mount the crank
is irregular. This is a disappointment for me as I wanted to build the bike myself from scratch. I
don't think it's worth it though if I knacker some essentially non-replaceable cranks.

Next time I have the wise idea to build a bike, I'm going to make it my winter hack!

Steve Blankenship <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As you've noted, you can't push a splined DA crank on by hand with the
bolt
> in it. You can if you remove the bolt, but that's not necessary. Here's how I do it: (w/no comment
> on greasing - your call)
>
> 1. Without removing the cap/bolt, place the crank over the spindle, attempting to match up with
> the splines, and thread the crank bolt in *lightly*.
> 2. As you *lightly* continue to thread the bolt in, you will feel
resistance
> when the crank contacts the spindle, most likely in a mis-aligned
position.
> Do NOT continue tightening the bolt. But don't loosen it either, at least not more than 1/8 of a
> turn. The slight pressure is useful for the next step.
> 3. Grab the crank arm while holding the opposite end of the spindle and rotate (or wiggle) it back
> and forth until you find the proper alignment. You can feel it "slot in" as it lines up.
> 4. Try threading the bolt in now; if you got it right, there won't be the resistance you felt
> earlier, and the crank will move onto the spindle as
you
> tighten the bolt. If you feel tension on the bolt immediately without the the crank moving, you
> don't have it aligned - try again.
> 5. Repeat for the other side, noting alignment with the opposite crank.
>
> Really not that difficult if you go slow and pay attention, but not as
easy
> as it used to be. Like so many things... ;-)
>
> SB
>
> "RandomChris" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original
post
> > clear enough!
> >
> > I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's just with this one it seems
> > difficult/impossible to get the splines to
'mesh'.
> >
> > The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility
issue.
> > They are from the 25th anniversary group, which is why the bottom
bracket
> > spindle is made of titanium (one of the differences between standard and
> the
> > anniv edition).
> >
> > I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The
splines
> > appear to be lined up but no amount of fiddling will get the splined bit
> of
> > the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank bolt at this stage and
> begin
> > to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I
stopped.
> I
> > thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with the
> crank
> > bolts to the correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....
> >
> > Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock on! Maybe it's not a precise
> > fit at the end and something's snagging?
> >
> > I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is
> difficult
> > to replace.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in
message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to
a
> > > splined bottom bracket? All the instructions I've found (Park's
website,
> > > those provided with the component) say to push the crank onto the
axle.
> I
> > > can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by
> > > hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by
> hand,
> > > should I just put the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the
axle?
> > I'm
> > > reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't lined
> up
> > > 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
> expected
> > a
> > > close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on
by
> > > hand.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
>

 

"RandomChris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've checked what you suggested and all seems fine.
>
> Actually, what seems to be happening is that the crank is getting stuck (going no further) before
> it even gets near the splines! i.e.
misallignment
> of the splines isn't the issue. It seems to be BB axle vs hole in crank width. Seems odd??

I don't know how you missed it but someone else mentioned (at least once), and correctly, that you
ought to remove the dustcap/extractor before you re-install the cranks. It will then be able to
engage and you will be able to be confident about it. The technique of installing with the bolt and
dustcap in place is hazardous.

Robin Hubert

> <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> > The standard Shimano stuff is a pretty mild press fit. Normally I can push them on far enough by
> > hand so the splines just start to engage. I didn't realize the aniversary edition has a Ti
> > spindle- perhaps the tolerances are different.
> >
> >
> > You did remove the dust caps, right? If you haven't it's just about impossible to line the
> > splines up visually.
> >
> > I guess i'd count spline numbers, and measure the spline width to make sure it at least looks
> > ballpark.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:40:57 -0000, "RandomChris" <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original
> post
> > >clear enough!
> > >
> > >I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's
just
> > >with this one it seems difficult/impossible to get the splines to
'mesh'.
> > >
> > >The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility
issue.
> > >They are from the 25th anniversary group, which is why the bottom
bracket
> > >spindle is made of titanium (one of the differences between standard an
d
> the
> > >anniv edition).
> > >
> > >I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The
splines
> > >appear to be lined up but no amount of fiddling will get the splined
bit
> of
> > >the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank bolt at this stage and
> begin
> > >to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I
> stopped. I
> > >thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with the
> crank
> > >bolts to the correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....
> > >
> > >Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock on! Maybe it's not a
> > >precise fit at the end and something's snagging?
> > >
> > >I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is
> difficult
> > >to replace.
> > >
> > >Cheers
> > >
> > >Chris
> > >
> > >RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in
> message
> > >news:[email protected]...
> > >> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks to
a
> > >> splined bottom bracket? All the instructions I've found (Park's
> website,
> > >> those provided with the component) say to push the crank onto the
axle.
> I
> > >> can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far enough
> (by
> > >> hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing by
> hand,
> > >> should I just put the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the
> axle?
> > >I'm
> > >> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't
lined
> up
> > >> 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
> expected
> > >a
> > >> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them on
> by
> > >> hand.
> > >>
> > >> Cheers
> > >>
> > >> Chris
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >

 

I don't have the bolt or dustcap/extractor in place when I am trying to install! Maybe something
else I didn't make clear originally. You can't see the splines at all with the bolt through the
crank, so that would be madness.

In my previous post I noted that there was still 1-2mm for the crank to go on the BB axle before the
splines engaged (I can see this because I don't have the bolt in). The resistance felt at this point
seems to imply that the axle is somehow too big for the cranks! The only way I can get the crank
further on the BB is to THEN insert the bolt and begin to tighten it. After a half turn the only way
I can get the crank to budge further is to use the crank arm as the lever rather than the allen key.
Again, at this point I stopped because I am scared stiff of wrecking something.

I'm taking the bike and cranks to a bike shop this morning - I've had enough now! ;o)

Chris

Robin Hubert <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "RandomChris" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've checked what you suggested and all seems fine.
> >
> > Actually, what seems to be happening is that the crank is getting stuck (going no further)
> > before it even gets near the splines! i.e.
> misallignment
> > of the splines isn't the issue. It seems to be BB axle vs hole in crank width. Seems odd??
>
> I don't know how you missed it but someone else mentioned (at least once), and correctly, that you
> ought to remove the dustcap/extractor before you re-install the cranks. It will then be able to
> engage and you will be
able
> to be confident about it. The technique of installing with the bolt and dustcap in place is
> hazardous.
>
> Robin Hubert
>
>
> > <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> > > The standard Shimano stuff is a pretty mild press fit. Normally I can push them on far enough
> > > by hand so the splines just start to engage. I didn't realize the aniversary edition has a Ti
> > > spindle- perhaps the tolerances are different.
> > >
> > >
> > > You did remove the dust caps, right? If you haven't it's just about impossible to line the
> > > splines up visually.
> > >
> > > I guess i'd count spline numbers, and measure the spline width to make sure it at least looks
> > > ballpark.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, 23 Jan 2003 21:40:57 -0000, "RandomChris"
> > > <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >
> > > >Thanks all for the info, but it seems maybe I didn't make my original
> > post
> > > >clear enough!
> > > >
> > > >I'm fine with the theory of how the crank and BB fit together, it's
> just
> > > >with this one it seems difficult/impossible to get the splines to
> 'mesh'.
> > > >
> > > >The bottom bracket and crank are both Dura Ace, so nocompatibility
> issue.
> > > >They are from the 25th anniversary group, which is why the bottom
> bracket
> > > >spindle is made of titanium (one of the differences between standard
an
> d
> > the
> > > >anniv edition).
> > > >
> > > >I've greased the axle and tried pushing the crank on by hand. The
> splines
> > > >appear to be lined up but no amount of fiddling will get the splined
> bit
> > of
> > > >the crank on the axle. Even if I try the crank bolt at this stage and
> > begin
> > > >to tighten it there is too much resistence to go an further. So I
> > stopped. I
> > > >thought the crank would go all the way on by hand and tighten with
the
> > crank
> > > >bolts to the correct torque. I've tried both cranks on both sides, in different positions....
> > > >
> > > >Maybe it's something I should take a mallet to and attempt to knock
on!
> > > >Maybe it's not a precise fit at the end and something's snagging?
> > > >
> > > >I don't want to wreck either component as the 25th anniv stuff is
> > difficult
> > > >to replace.
> > > >
> > > >Cheers
> > > >
> > > >Chris
> > > >
> > > >RandomChris <[email protected]> wrote in
> > message
> > > >news:[email protected]...
> > > >> Can anyone help me figure out how to fit a pair of Dura Ace cranks
to
> a
> > > >> splined bottom bracket? All the instructions I've found (Park's
> > website,
> > > >> those provided with the component) say to push the crank onto the
> axle.
> > I
> > > >> can't do this. Neither the left nor right crank will go on far
enough
> > (by
> > > >> hand) for the splined parts to come into play. I've tried pushing
by
> > hand,
> > > >> should I just put the bolt in and let this push the crank onto the
> > axle?
> > > >I'm
> > > >> reluctant to do this as the axle is Ti and if the splines aren't
> lined
> > up
> > > >> 100% correctly I could trash the BB and/or crankset. I would have
> > expected
> > > >a
> > > >> close fit but would at least have expected to be able to push them
on
> > by
> > > >> hand.
> > > >>
> > > >> Cheers
> > > >>
> > > >> Chris
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

 

Are you SURE that you have matching splines and cranks? There are several different spline styles
that are not interchangable! The couple that I know about are LX/XT, XTR, ISIS. I'm sure that there
are more. (Hope that I have this right ), but you can't put an XT crank on an XTR spline and
vice-versa!

David

RandomChris wrote:
> I don't have the bolt or dustcap/extractor in place when I am trying to install! Maybe something
> else I didn't make clear originally. You can't see the splines at all with the bolt through the
> crank, so that would be madness.
>
> In my previous post I noted that there was still 1-2mm for the crank to go on the BB axle before
> the splines engaged (I can see this because I don't have the bolt in). The resistance felt at this
> point seems to imply that the axle is somehow too big for the cranks! The only way I can get the
> crank further on the BB is to THEN insert the bolt and begin to tighten it. After a half turn the
> only way I can get the crank to budge further is to use the crank arm as the lever rather than the
> allen key. Again, at this point I stopped because I am scared stiff of wrecking something.
>
> I'm taking the bike and cranks to a bike shop this morning - I've had enough now! ;o)
>
> Chris

 

YES.

Dura Ace BB and cranks.

Went to bike shop this morning, know the mechanic so he did it for nothing and he has more
experience than me. He said it was a tight fit for an octalink and struggled to get it over the
splines initially. Sorted now. Good riddance to that job!

David Kunz <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Are you SURE that you have matching splines and cranks? There are several different spline styles
> that are not interchangable! The couple that I know about are LX/XT, XTR, ISIS. I'm sure that
> there are more. (Hope that I have this right ), but you can't put an XT crank on an XTR spline
> and vice-versa!
>
> David
>
> RandomChris wrote:
> > I don't have the bolt or dustcap/extractor in place when I am trying to install! Maybe something
> > else I didn't make clear originally. You can't
see
> > the splines at all with the bolt through the crank, so that would be madness.
> >
> > In my previous post I noted that there was still 1-2mm for the crank to
go
> > on the BB axle before the splines engaged (I can see this because I
don't
> > have the bolt in). The resistance felt at this point seems to imply that
the
> > axle is somehow too big for the cranks! The only way I can get the crank further on the BB is to
> > THEN insert the bolt and begin to tighten it.
After
> > a half turn the only way I can get the crank to budge further is to use
the
> > crank arm as the lever rather than the allen key. Again, at this point I stopped because I am
> > scared stiff of wrecking something.
> >
> > I'm taking the bike and cranks to a bike shop this morning - I've had
enough
> > now! ;o)
> >
> > Chris

 

> And those of us that see a lot of shimano also see a lot of 'wrenches' that have put on octolink
> cranks w/o taking the cap off and have killed the splines of the crank...just take the cap off, it
> come off to start with and needs grease inside anyway..

An idiot can wreck anything. Sadly the worse sort of bike shops employ a lot of these idiots. The
technique I describe is perfectly safe for people of the most meagre common sense (as in: if you
don't feel the splines engage, stop and take the dust cap off). You are not using the bolt to pull
the crank onto the splines, just preventing the bolt from blocking the operation. Anything beyond
fingertip pressure anywhere means something is wrong.

The kind of person who would wreck Octolink splines is also going to over or under tighten some
safety critical part (front brake pinch bolt, maybe); I don't want them anywhere near my bike.

In the OP's case, I still wonder what is going on - he should have been able to engage the splines
with light finger pressure.