D
David L. Johnson
Guest
On Sun, 09 May 2004 21:01:33 -0400, Michael Press wrote:
> Yes, I'd prefer a lockring even though I'll keep the brake(s). I've
> also discovered since my original post that the bike actually has
> "semi-horizontal" dropouts - much closer to horizontal than vertical,
> so I'm defintely going forward with this.
If there is room to move the wheel forward or backward about 1/2", that
will do nicely. Forget, though, the tensioner. If you only have 1/4" of
forward/rearward motion, you can still make it work. You may not need
this if the numbers work out in your favor, but you can get extra
flexibility by getting a half-link. These are only available for 1/8"
chain, which you can use.
>
> Can you give more detail on this - what's a bottom bracket lockring? Is
> that from an old-style bottom bracket?
Yes. The old, non-cartridge bottom brackets use a separate lockring on
the left side to secure the left cup. On English thread bottom brackets,
that lockring will fit on the hub threads of an old freewheel-style hub.
I do suggest that a real track hub is better, but....
I recall the last BB
I installed
> (a few years ago), a cartridge-type, each half of the BB screwed in on
> opposite sides, but I don't recall a lockring. Can this still be bought
> or do you have to scavenge an old BB?
Should be available, but not easy to find. Easier to find an old bike --
cheaper to buy the bike for the lockring than to order it special. Seems
a waste, but you can put a cartridge bottom bracket on the old bike,
maybe.
>
> Also, does the lockring screw into the hub threads after the cog? If
> not, what do you mean by Locktiting "overtop of the cog"?
If you are not using a track hub, which has left-hand threads for the
lockring, some sort of goop to hold the lockring and sprocket in place is
a good idea.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | What is objectionable, and what is dangerous about extremists is
_`\(,_ | not that they are extreme, but that they are intolerant. --Robert
(_)/ (_) | F. Kennedy
> Yes, I'd prefer a lockring even though I'll keep the brake(s). I've
> also discovered since my original post that the bike actually has
> "semi-horizontal" dropouts - much closer to horizontal than vertical,
> so I'm defintely going forward with this.
If there is room to move the wheel forward or backward about 1/2", that
will do nicely. Forget, though, the tensioner. If you only have 1/4" of
forward/rearward motion, you can still make it work. You may not need
this if the numbers work out in your favor, but you can get extra
flexibility by getting a half-link. These are only available for 1/8"
chain, which you can use.
>
> Can you give more detail on this - what's a bottom bracket lockring? Is
> that from an old-style bottom bracket?
Yes. The old, non-cartridge bottom brackets use a separate lockring on
the left side to secure the left cup. On English thread bottom brackets,
that lockring will fit on the hub threads of an old freewheel-style hub.
I do suggest that a real track hub is better, but....
I recall the last BB
I installed
> (a few years ago), a cartridge-type, each half of the BB screwed in on
> opposite sides, but I don't recall a lockring. Can this still be bought
> or do you have to scavenge an old BB?
Should be available, but not easy to find. Easier to find an old bike --
cheaper to buy the bike for the lockring than to order it special. Seems
a waste, but you can put a cartridge bottom bracket on the old bike,
maybe.
>
> Also, does the lockring screw into the hub threads after the cog? If
> not, what do you mean by Locktiting "overtop of the cog"?
If you are not using a track hub, which has left-hand threads for the
lockring, some sort of goop to hold the lockring and sprocket in place is
a good idea.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | What is objectionable, and what is dangerous about extremists is
_`\(,_ | not that they are extreme, but that they are intolerant. --Robert
(_)/ (_) | F. Kennedy
