Fixing punctures



T

Tim Woodall

Guest
With three punctures in a week (slow in the rear went flat overnight
then slow in the front ditto and then tonight a roadside change for the
rear) I've patched some innertubes for the first time in years. As I was
changing the tires I decided I might as well and then keep some new
tubes for the next puncture and put some patched tubes in now.

But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on
paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't
get the backing paper off. The first one I tried to get it off after
sticking the patch on the tube, gave up, but it was too late and I had
to pull the patch off the tube and start again.

So I've left the paper on.

What do others do?

Tim.


--
God said, "div D = rho, div B = 0, curl E = - @B/@t, curl H = J + @D/@t,"
and there was light.

http://tjw.hn.org/ http://www.locofungus.btinternet.co.uk/
 
On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 00:09:51 +0000 (GMT), Sandy Morton
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>,
> Tim Woodall <[email protected]> wrote:
>> So I've left the paper on.

>
>> What do others do?

>
>Leave the paper/film on - saves time.


But if you feel you _must_ get the paper off, place finger at 12
o'clock and thumb at 6 o'clock on the newly applied patch, Squeeze,
such that the patch folds along the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock line. This
will cause the paper to crack, allowing ot to be carefully removed
working from the middle out.



Tim
 
Tim Woodall wrote:
> But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on
> paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't
> get the backing paper off. The first one I tried to get it off after
> sticking the patch on the tube, gave up, but it was too late and I had
> to pull the patch off the tube and start again.
>
> So I've left the paper on.
>
> What do others do?


It's better to remove the backing when you can because that allows the
patch to stretch more easily, but no big deal if any of it is stuck as it
will eventually disintegrate of its own accord.

I tend to use patches with a cellophane rather than paper backing. This
is easy to peel off cleanly after snips have been made at the sides.

~PB
 
Tim Hall wrote:
> On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 00:09:51 +0000 (GMT), Sandy Morton
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>> Tim Woodall <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>So I've left the paper on.

>>
>>>What do others do?

>>
>>Leave the paper/film on - saves time.

>
>
> But if you feel you _must_ get the paper off, place finger at 12
> o'clock and thumb at 6 o'clock on the newly applied patch, Squeeze,
> such that the patch folds along the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock line. This
> will cause the paper to crack, allowing ot to be carefully removed
> working from the middle out.
>
>
>
> Tim

agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or
more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch
slid off!! :-(
 
Tim Woodall wrote:

> But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on
> paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't
> get the backing paper off.


The new patches aren't all bad though, at least there is no need to
carry a blow-torch to vulcanise the repair anymore...
 
turkeytickler wrote:
> agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or
> more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch
> slid off!! :-(


10 minutes! I usually leave it overnight before trying to remove the
backing (unless it's an emergency on-the-road repair, of course, but I
usually have a spare tube for those occasions).

d.
 
turkeytickler wrote:
> agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or
> more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch
> slid off!! :-(


That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still
wet!
 
LSMike wrote:
> turkeytickler wrote:
>
>>agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or
>>more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch
>>slid off!! :-(

>
>
> That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still
> wet!
>

yes :-|
 
On 30 Nov 2005 01:54:31 -0800, "LSMike" <[email protected]> wrote:

>turkeytickler wrote:
>> agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or
>> more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch
>> slid off!! :-(

>
>That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still
>wet!


Or used grease instead of glue...


Tim
 
On 30 Nov 2005 00:48:45 -0800, "sothach" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>Tim Woodall wrote:
>
>> But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on
>> paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't
>> get the backing paper off.

>
>The new patches aren't all bad though, at least there is no need to
>carry a blow-torch to vulcanise the repair anymore...



Or a small boy to operate the bellows (obviously _not_ allowed in the
TdF).



Tim
 
Tim Woodall wrote:
> With three punctures in a week (slow in the rear went flat overnight
> then slow in the front ditto and then tonight a roadside change for the
> rear) I've patched some innertubes for the first time in years. As I was
> changing the tires I decided I might as well and then keep some new
> tubes for the next puncture and put some patched tubes in now.
>
> But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on
> paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't
> get the backing paper off. The first one I tried to get it off after
> sticking the patch on the tube, gave up, but it was too late and I had
> to pull the patch off the tube and start again.
>
> So I've left the paper on.
>
> What do others do?
>
> Tim.
>
>

I gave up with these type of patches and now use self sticky ones.
Several people seem to have trouble with these but I have always found
them to be reliable. The make to go for is Park.

--
Regards, Kenneth.
www.kmiles.co.uk
 
in message <[email protected]>, Tim Hall
('[email protected]') wrote:

> On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 00:09:51 +0000 (GMT), Sandy Morton
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>In article <[email protected]>,
>> Tim Woodall <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> So I've left the paper on.

>>
>>> What do others do?

>>
>>Leave the paper/film on - saves time.

>
> But if you feel you _must_ get the paper off, place finger at 12
> o'clock and thumb at 6 o'clock on the newly applied patch, Squeeze,
> such that the patch folds along the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock line. This
> will cause the paper to crack, allowing ot to be carefully removed
> working from the middle out.


Alternative method: when the glue has /firmly/ set, stretch the
tube /across/ the patch. The tube will stretch, the patch will stretch,
the film will not stretch, hence it will tear and come off easily. Works
with Tip-Top brand patches, which in my experience are the best.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
Ring of great evil
Small one casts it into flame
Bringing rise of Men ;; gonzoron
 
in message <[email protected]>, turkeytickler
('[email protected]') wrote:

> LSMike wrote:
>> turkeytickler wrote:
>>
>>>agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or
>>>more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch
>>>slid off!! :-(

>>
>>
>> That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still
>> wet!
>>

> yes :-|


Don't. Let the glue dry before you put the patch on. It can't dry after,
because it dries by evaporation of volatiles and the patch is
impermeable.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

<p>Schroedinger's cat is <blink><strong>NOT</strong></blink> dead.</p>
 
"Simon Brooke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Alternative method: when the glue has /firmly/ set, stretch the
> tube /across/ the patch. The tube will stretch, the patch will stretch,
> the film will not stretch, hence it will tear and come off easily. Works
> with Tip-Top brand patches, which in my experience are the best.


Tip-Tops have the film slightly perforated to help with this.

(and I'll second the recommendation)

cheers,
clive
 
Clive George wrote:
> (and I'll second the recommendation)


and I'll third it

d.
 
Kenneth Miles <[email protected]> wrote:

> I gave up with these type of patches and now use self sticky ones.
> Several people seem to have trouble with these but I have always found
> them to be reliable. The make to go for is Park.


<fx: Recalls experiences with these on the Rural South 300. Froths at the
mouth. Gibbers uncontrollably>

I bung the newly-repaired tube in the "spares" bag and remove the paper the
next time the P+nct+r+ Fairy requires the installation of an Unholey tube.

--
Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
Is it an Audi A4?
 
I overheard in the bike shop that the self-stickies aren't any good for road
tyre pressures.
Can't remember exactly but maybe over 80 PSI?
Or maybe it was just a particular brand.

>>

> I gave up with these type of patches and now use self sticky ones.
> Several people seem to have trouble with these but I have always found
> them to be reliable. The make to go for is Park.
>
 
POHB wrote:
> I overheard in the bike shop that the self-stickies aren't any good
> for road tyre pressures.
> Can't remember exactly but maybe over 80 PSI?
> Or maybe it was just a particular brand.


It's a myth, I think. With whatever sort of patch, the higher the
pressure, the harder it is effectively pressed against the tube by the
tyre casing. This must be a good thing.

I've had Giyo glueless patches take 130 psi, I've had them fail at 40 psi,
and vice versa. "Normal" patches are much more consistant and reliable,
IME. Maybe Park's are better, I dunno.

~PB
 

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