fork for old steel frame



M

mtb Dad

Guest
Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks
 
In article <[email protected]>,
mtb Dad <[email protected]> wrote:

> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks


Hincapie's fork was a low-end Trek fork with a metal body, steel or
aluminum I can't recall. I think they used it for better (mud) clearance
around the tire and brakes.

As for the CF fork, you can probably find an older one with CF legs and
a threaded steel steer tube: I have such a beast (a Trek) on one of my
old steel bikes.

In fact, I found a more suitable fork for that bike, so make me an
offer...

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
 
mtb Dad wrote:
>
> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks


That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
threadless headset and stem at the same time.

What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
threadless headsets.

Chalo
 
On May 11, 4:11 pm, Ryan Cousineau <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> mtb Dad <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> > that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> > I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> > fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks

>
> Hincapie's fork was a low-end Trek fork with a metal body, steel or
> aluminum I can't recall. I think they used it for better (mud) clearance
> around the tire and brakes.
>
> As for the CF fork, you can probably find an older one with CF legs and
> a threaded steel steer tube: I have such a beast (a Trek) on one of my
> old steel bikes.
>
> In fact, I found a more suitable fork for that bike, so make me an
> offer...
>
> --
> Ryan Cousineau [email protected]://www.wiredcola.com/
> "I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
> to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos


Hincapie's head tube was aluminum. Poor guy.

/s
 

> That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
> threadless headset and stem at the same time.
>
> What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
> there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
> steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
> experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
> they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
> tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
> carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
> Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
> threadless headsets.


http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/

I put Martec in google and found raves about their obsession with QA
so I bought an M2 and an M8.

-dl
 
mtb Dad wrote:
> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer?


If it is "older", I presume it is a 1" headset. I don't like the idea
of 1" carbon steerers.

I love my Wound-up forks. I had to get one when I damaged the old fork
drilling out a stuck stem, and liked it so much I got another for my
fixed gear. Solid, strong, stiff. I like the appearance, though some
don't. Not cheap, but I think it was worth it and I am unusually cheap.

These may be available with an aluminum steerer, but I went for steel
for strengh. The crown is "lugged", which might blend better with the
old steel frame than some fake-aero bladed thing.

--

David L. Johnson

"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds, adored by
little statesmen and philosophers and divines." --Ralph Waldo Emerson
 
> mtb Dad wrote:
>> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
>> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
>> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
>> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks


Chalo wrote:
> That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
> threadless headset and stem at the same time.
>
> What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
> there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
> steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
> experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
> they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
> tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
> carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
> Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
> threadless headsets.


Mostly right.

We actually weighed forks and found that a CrMo top/CF blade fork is
about average, not light, compared to handmade steel forks. An aluminum
column puts you among the lightest steel forks.

So, yes, a carbon fork _can_ be lighter, not all are.

Threaded carbon forks are no longer produced, suddenly rare.

I agree that unless something's broken the original fork's best.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
A Muzi wrote:
>
> Chalo wrote:
> >
> > Old-fashioned lugged
> > steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
> > experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
> > they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though.

>
> Mostly right.
>
> We actually weighed forks and found that a CrMo top/CF blade fork is
> about average, not light, compared to handmade steel forks. An aluminum
> column puts you among the lightest steel forks.


I can't say as I've had much experience with light handmade steel
forks. I'm not sure I'd trust one if I had one, either. The road
forks I do have some experience with are OEM Tange lugged forks and
the like. They work OK for me as long as the front braking is kept
modest.

> So, yes, a carbon fork _can_ be lighter, not all are.
>
> Threaded carbon forks are no longer produced, suddenly rare.


Why do neither of these things surprise me?

Chalo
 
On May 11, 11:56 am, mtb Dad <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks


Profile makes steel threaded carbon forks as does Wound-up. Or any
aluminum steerer for threadless. I wouldn't not get an aluminum
steerer because of the fork thing at Paris Roubaix. Just about
everything 'bike', of any material, has broken there at one time or
another.
 
On May 11, 6:44 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> > mtb Dad wrote:
> >> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> >> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> >> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> >> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks

> Chalo wrote:
> > That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
> > threadless headset and stem at the same time.

>
> > What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
> > there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
> > steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
> > experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
> > they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
> > tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
> > carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
> > Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
> > threadless headsets.

>
> Mostly right.
>
> We actually weighed forks and found that a CrMo top/CF blade fork is
> about average, not light, compared to handmade steel forks. An aluminum
> column puts you among the lightest steel forks.
>
> So, yes, a carbon fork _can_ be lighter, not all are.
>
> Threaded carbon forks are no longer produced, suddenly rare.


Think Profile and Woundup still make 'em. I have one of each on my
Gunnar and Moots(yes with inserts to use a 1 inch threaded HS..for all
of you that will want to say, " I thought the headtube was 1
1/8inch...etc..did it for ti quill stems I have")
>
> I agree that unless something's broken the original fork's best.
> --
> Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
> On May 11, 11:56 am, mtb Dad <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
>> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
>> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
>> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks


Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> Profile makes steel threaded carbon forks as does Wound-up. Or any
> aluminum steerer for threadless. I wouldn't not get an aluminum
> steerer because of the fork thing at Paris Roubaix. Just about
> everything 'bike', of any material, has broken there at one time or
> another.


Didn't know Wound Up made them, thanks.
I bought every single Profile threaded fork last July when they
discontinued the product, 3 left.

Agreed, all goes to dust eventually. Some things more painfully than others.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
> I love my Wound-up forks.

Same here. Have one on my old Co-Motion single espresso and wouldn't
hesitiate to use it again. I think the Wound-up fork looks great on
both steel and TI bikes.

http://www.advancedcomposites.com/woundup.htm

Has 2006 MSRP listings and other details. The 1" diam steel steerer
fork goes for about $300 which is not cheap but not crazy expensive
for this type of product.

Mark
 
In article <[email protected]>,
A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:

> > mtb Dad wrote:
> >> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> >> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> >> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> >> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks

>
> Chalo wrote:
> > That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
> > threadless headset and stem at the same time.
> >
> > What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
> > there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
> > steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
> > experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
> > they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
> > tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
> > carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
> > Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
> > threadless headsets.

>
> Mostly right.
>
> We actually weighed forks and found that a CrMo top/CF blade fork is
> about average, not light, compared to handmade steel forks. An aluminum
> column puts you among the lightest steel forks.
>
> So, yes, a carbon fork _can_ be lighter, not all are.
>
> Threaded carbon forks are no longer produced, suddenly rare.
>
> I agree that unless something's broken the original fork's best.


What is the mass of recent forks? I'll start with a
5 year old Columbus steel, 1 in threadless fork at 850 gram.

--
Michael Press
 
In article <[email protected]>,
Michael Press <[email protected]> wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>,
> A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > mtb Dad wrote:
> > >> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
> > >> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
> > >> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
> > >> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks

> >
> > Chalo wrote:
> > > That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
> > > threadless headset and stem at the same time.
> > >
> > > What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
> > > there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
> > > steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
> > > experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
> > > they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
> > > tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
> > > carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
> > > Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
> > > threadless headsets.

> >
> > Mostly right.
> >
> > We actually weighed forks and found that a CrMo top/CF blade fork is
> > about average, not light, compared to handmade steel forks. An aluminum
> > column puts you among the lightest steel forks.
> >
> > So, yes, a carbon fork _can_ be lighter, not all are.
> >
> > Threaded carbon forks are no longer produced, suddenly rare.
> >
> > I agree that unless something's broken the original fork's best.

>
> What is the mass of recent forks? I'll start with a
> 5 year old Columbus steel, 1 in threadless fork at 850 gram.


My carbon leg/Al steer tube CX fork (Nashbar house brand) is listed as
722g with an uncut 1-1/8" steerer. 32g less in 1".

The high end of the market is roughly defined by something like an
Easton EC90 SL, which is 340g. I think there's an SLX model as well, but
I'd say that 450g (a pound) is a pretty decent dividing line between
high-end all carbon forks and run-of-the-mill all-carbon forks.
Nashbar's offering is 515g, for example, roughly defining the bottom of
the all-carbon fork market (er...).

Nashbar will also sell you a touring/CX steel fork with canti posts and
a disc mount. It's 1332g, which probably represents the heaviest
mainstream road fork available, though I don't doubt there are hi-ten
cheapie forks out there with even greater mass.

I'd go with the guideline that one pound forks are light, and three
pound forks are heavy.

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
 
"Scott Gordo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On May 11, 4:11 pm, Ryan Cousineau <[email protected]> wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> mtb Dad <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
>> > that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
>> > I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
>> > fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks

>>
>> Hincapie's fork was a low-end Trek fork with a metal body, steel or
>> aluminum I can't recall. I think they used it for better (mud) clearance
>> around the tire and brakes.
>>
>> As for the CF fork, you can probably find an older one with CF legs and
>> a threaded steel steer tube: I have such a beast (a Trek) on one of my
>> old steel bikes.
>>
>> In fact, I found a more suitable fork for that bike, so make me an
>> offer...
>>
>> --
>> Ryan Cousineau [email protected]://www.wiredcola.com/
>> "I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
>> to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos

>
> Hincapie's head tube was aluminum. Poor guy.
>

You mean steerer tube...
 
The steel fork for my Rivendell custom (built for day riding, not touring)
weighs 840g. That's with long blades (57mm reach brakes with the brake
blocks at the bottom of the slot) and a 275mm long threaded steerer: the
frame is 63cm with a 2 degree upslope on the top tube and a 2cm extension on
the head tube and a 20mm spacer between the headset top cup and locknut.

Nick

"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> What is the mass of recent forks? I'll start with a
> 5 year old Columbus steel, 1 in threadless fork at 850 gram.
 
Michael Press <[email protected]> writes:

>What is the mass of recent forks? I'll start with a
>5 year old Columbus steel, 1 in threadless fork at 850 gram.


40-year old Davis-crowned fork from a Raleigh Competition. Pencil
stays, eyelets, full chrome. 710 grams.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
>>> mtb Dad wrote:
>>>> Any suggestions for a CF fork for an older steel frame? Maybe one
>>>> that suits the older asthetic. I know I'll need a new headset unless
>>>> I go threaded. Also, should I look for a steel steerer? Hincapie's
>>>> fork incident made me wonder about the newer materials. Thanks


>> Chalo wrote:
>>> That will be tricky to find unless you are willing to switch to a
>>> threadless headset and stem at the same time.
>>> What's your objective here? Do you just need a replacement, or is
>>> there some improvement you are trying to make? Old-fashioned lugged
>>> steel forks are hard to beat for ride quality and reliability, in my
>>> experience. They are also comparatively forgiving in the ways that
>>> they fail. CFRP forks are a lot lighter, though. For a 1" steer
>>> tube, steel is best-- aluminum is much more flexible and crack-prone,
>>> carbon/plastic is easily damaged by normal installation techniques.
>>> Both aluminum and carbon/plastic steer tubes are compatible only with
>>> threadless headsets.


> A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Mostly right.
>> We actually weighed forks and found that a CrMo top/CF blade fork is
>> about average, not light, compared to handmade steel forks. An aluminum
>> column puts you among the lightest steel forks.
>> So, yes, a carbon fork _can_ be lighter, not all are.
>> I agree that unless something's broken the original fork's best.


Michael Press wrote:
>> Threaded carbon forks are no longer produced, suddenly rare.

> What is the mass of recent forks? I'll start with a
> 5 year old Columbus steel, 1 in threadless fork at 850 gram.


Steel top Profile carbon, Kinesis steel top aluminum, Bianchi ELOS
unicrown 565 grams.
Anything with a crown is going to weigh more than a 'unicrown' CrMO fork.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
On May 13, 11:38 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:


> > What is the mass of recent forks? I'll start with a
> > 5 year old Columbus steel, 1 in threadless fork at 850 gram.

> Steel top Profile carbon, Kinesis steel top aluminum, Bianchi ELOS
> unicrown 565 grams.
> Anything with a crown is going to weigh more than a 'unicrown' CrMO fork.


To that precision should you not specify what length?

Sergio
Pisa
 
[email protected] (Donald Gillies) writes:

40-year old Davis-crowned fork from a Raleigh Competition. Pencil
stays, eyelets, full chrome. 9 inch steerer for 24.5" frameset. only
710 grams.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 

Similar threads

H
Replies
4
Views
474
R