Okay, the difference between 72.74 & 75.5 is significant IF one of the current Easton seatposts won't set your saddle back far enough for you ...
BTW. I'm not sure what your idea of a proportionally shorter arm & torso are. To be properly fitted for a frame with a 52cm top tube, you need to be in the 5'5" +/- height range. Is that right?
When you are seated
on a hard kitchen-type chair AND sitting straight, what is the measurement to your shoulder bone? What is the measurement of that bone to the crook between your thumb and the rest of your hand?
Regardless, the Specialized Roubaix Elite is not going to be a good deal for you if the frame's geometry doesn't work for you ...
BUT, in that regard, you should read
Keith Bontrager's article "The Myth of K.O.P.S." and/or Sheldon Brown's article on frame sizing:
FWIW. Regardless of the frame size (seat tube & top tube) of my various ROAD bikes (and, it varies greatly), the variation is probably less than a half-inch from the bike with the most forward reach to the least. I establish my saddle's position according to the crank (I prefer 175mm, but have 172.5 & 170mm on some ... and, have some 180mm cranks that I just haven't gotten around to fiddling with [generally, more leverage == less "strain" ... apparently, based on hearsay, the benefits of leverage are diminished with/by KOPS] ... I don't use KOPS), and then I choose the stem length accordingly (some handlebars have a variation in the reach which is why there is a slight deviation from my preferred setup on some of my bikes).
That's a wordy way of suggesting/saying that you want to replicate the position of the bike(s) which you find to be most/more comfortable to ride AND eschew fashion.
A "touring" frame will probably give you the slacker angles you want ... the FUJI & TREK touring bikes are in the $1000-to-$1200US range. For the difference to whatever the Specialized Elite costs (MSRP of 2x by my reckoning), you can swap the components you aren't keen on with whatever you would like OR use the drivetrain that I would recommend for your intended ride -- a Campagnolo "group" ... Veloce or Centaur (better), or a "mix" of Veloce & Centaur components ... a "compact" crank (I don't think there is an Ultra Torque triple) and a 12/13-29 cassette. Campagnolo ERGO shifters downshift flawlessly under load (i.e., you're already on an incline and want to access a larger cog in the rear!), IMO ... I was going to say that the Campy shifters downshift BETTER, but then all the proponents of Shimano (whom I love for what they have done for cycling AND who have superior customer service & great components) & SRAM (who have inferior customer service, IMO; but, interesting components) would feel that they need to chime in to defend their component selection.
A HYBRID frame will almost certainly give you the frame angles you want, too.