Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Frame/component quandry

Started by photogy · · Last activity · 5 posts · 1,174 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
13 May 2005
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13 May 2005
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photogy
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  1. I am just getting back into biking after a eight year hiatus. I'm a budget, but have a serious need to upgrade, and should know better than to try to do things on a shoe string, but here it is.

    I have two old bikes. One is a Diamondback interval that I purchased in 1994, rode it for many miles, but always felt that I was lugging a weight around. The bike is still stock with Shimano 300ex. The other is a Centurion Iron Man that I purchased this spring at a garage sale with a Suntour rear derailuer on a six speed cassette, shimano 105 crank and front derauleur. The seatpost is aluminum, and the headset is Richey along with upgraded stem (Profile Design) and graphite handlebar that is too wide for me. The wheels are UKAI, and I suspect very light. The problem is that after riding the Iron Man for some time, I realize that it is too small for me. The top tube is one inch shorter than the Diamondback that I have ridden for years, and the wheelbase is a full two inches shorter. In short, I am cramping in my back and neck. I love the weight of the Centurion, it's a feather.

    Are all steel frames the same in terms of weight (the Centurion appears to be made of smaller tubing probably making it lighter). Would it make sense to trade components by moving the lighter components to the Diamondback? Would it make sense to keep the original crank on the Diamondback or go through the trouble of trading the crank and bottom bracket as well? Ultimately, would I end up with a bike that would be light enough to satisfy me...similar to the Centurion only better in size? Would the centurion then ba saleable (the previous owner re-painted and put in corrosion resistor because he hated the wild color scheme of the original bike, so it has no decals left on it)?

  2. photogy said:

    Are all steel frames the same in terms of weight (the Centurion appears to be made of smaller tubing probably making it lighter). Would it make sense to trade components by moving the lighter components to the Diamondback? Would it make sense to keep the original crank on the Diamondback or go through the trouble of trading the crank and bottom bracket as well? Ultimately, would I end up with a bike that would be light enough to satisfy me...similar to the Centurion only better in size? Would the centurion then ba saleable (the previous owner re-painted and put in corrosion resistor because he hated the wild color scheme of the original bike, so it has no decals left on it)?

    Steel frames vary consideraably in weight.Diameter doesn't matter alot either as the larger tubes may be drawn thinner and butted where smaller diameter tubes could be thicker straight gage. I think you may be kidding yourself about saving meaningful weight on this swap. The centurian being repainted with no decals has alot less value than an original might have had. It's probably beater material. Why not sell em both and start over.

  3. boudreaux said:

    Steel frames vary consideraably in weight.Diameter doesn't matter alot either as the larger tubes may be drawn thinner and butted where smaller diameter tubes could be thicker straight gage. I think you may be kidding yourself about saving meaningful weight on this swap. The centurian being repainted with no decals has alot less value than an original might have had. It's probably beater material. Why not sell em both and start over.

    I second that, why waste your time and energy on the old gear! There's so many nice bikes out there. Why not set aside some money each month for your 'new bike fund'.

  4. boudreaux said:

    Steel frames vary consideraably in weight.Diameter doesn't matter alot either as the larger tubes may be drawn thinner and butted where smaller diameter tubes could be thicker straight gage. I think you may be kidding yourself about saving meaningful weight on this swap. The centurian being repainted with no decals has alot less value than an original might have had. It's probably beater material. Why not sell em both and start over.


    I think that the two might bring a total of $300 (liberal assumption, casue I was dumb enough to give $150 for the Centurion). It's a long way between $300 and the $1100 or $1200 that a new bike with 105 components will cost me and a long summer. Having been out of it for about nine years, and having crossed the 40yr mark in the process (I am now 44), weight seems to matter more now. I have thought about buying through bikesdirect.com, but given my recent experience, I am concerned about buying without riding first. Should I stay away from the Sora line? Bikes equiped with Sora are significantly less than with 105. Is it only the crispness of the shifting that I am giving up, or is there something else?

    My thinking on the component swap was that the gear on the Centurion; headset, stem, seatpost, crank, wheels, pedals (graphite handlebars have got to go as they are too wide for me), are significantly lighter that what is on the Diamondback.

  5. photogy said:

    I think that the two might bring a total of $300 (liberal assumption, casue I was dumb enough to give $150 for the Centurion). It's a long way between $300 and the $1100 or $1200 that a new bike with 105 components will cost me and a long summer. Having been out of it for about nine years, and having crossed the 40yr mark in the process (I am now 44), weight seems to matter more now. I have thought about buying through bikesdirect.com, but given my recent experience, I am concerned about buying without riding first. Should I stay away from the Sora line? Bikes equiped with Sora are significantly less than with 105. Is it only the crispness of the shifting that I am giving up, or is there something else?

    My thinking on the component swap was that the gear on the Centurion; headset, stem, seatpost, crank, wheels, pedals (graphite handlebars have got to go as they are too wide for me), are significantly lighter that what is on the Diamondback.

    Sora shifts fine if set up right. DA shifts like [censored] if it's not. Sora is bottom of the barrel,and so is about everything on a sora bike,but they are functionaql and work for many.you can get a good hosing buying on line if you don't know the size you need in the model you are buying..... If you have the tools and know how, swap till you puke.It's only your time involved and maybe the result will be what you are looking for.

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