archermd said:
i have not put my money into anything
not yet
just got back from rounds at the hospital
may shop later
what was it you wanted from your posts alfeng?
were you looking to bait someone else into the discusion?
were you trying to get others to ofer advice for or against specialized?
i appreciate your time and efforts helping me, i really do
if you have a reason why i should avoid the specialized
i will listen
hey, once told something valid a rational guy listens
i would not hang out with that moron in the news with tb any more than i would buy a bike that someone more experienced has reasons for me to avoid
so, tell me what to do, or not do, and i will heed your advice
i may go to the raliegh guy later
but his cx bike is a double
i thought i wanted a triple
i may seek a surly after all
god this is taking so long!!!!
I have to remind you that there is nothing sacred about the way a bike is set up when you receive it from a shop/wherever. Just as you can change the tire size, you can change almost every component that is on a bike frame.
As an example, many people change the saddle within a few weeks, if not immediately.
You can change the bars, later ... or, not. Some people choose to change the drop/ROAD bars on their bike to FLAT bars, and vice-versa. Some people change the drop bars on their road bike to one that is shaped differently OR wider/narrower.
A lot of people never change anything on a bike (except replacing the tires/tubes/cables when they "wear out").
Parts you may put on your "first" new bike upon returning to cycling can be removed, and the original parts put back on the bike ... so, if you get things worth keeping (e.g., Campagnolo shifters) which may not come on a subsequent road bike, then you can install them on your next bike when the time comes.
Sometimes brand loyalty is good, sometimes it isn't. Regardless, it really isn't for ME to tell anyone what bike OR component(s) to buy, or not buy ...
Now, if the ONLY problem you are having with the
Raleigh that you were looking at is that it has a double instead of a triple, well THAT is easily remedied ... now, or later. You may actually find that a road double (53/39) & "standard" (whatever
that is!) gearing (usually, something like a 12-25 cassette, BTW) to be more-than-sufficient.
One immediate-or-future option is to have the shop install a so-called "compact" crank (usually 50/34) and/or an 11-32 cassette. This may, of course cost, but if the bike is in-stock AND they discount for end of the season, the final cost shouldn't be more than the bust-out retail cost. To make a Shimano rear derailleur handle a rear cog larger than the spec'd 27t, you simply have to change the upper 11t pulley wheel to a 10t pulley wheel ($10, maximum).
MANY shops will often change the cassette on a new bike
without an upcharge ... particularly, if you are paying close to the MSRP. Same for stem length and/or handlebar width (on a road bar).
FWIW. Another, simpler option if the bike you prefer has only a double is to simply have the dealer install an XT-or-LX rear derailleur (XTR if you feel like spending more money) + an 11-34 rear cluster. Depending on what he has, there may be a charge -- if the upcharge is equal to what it would cost you for the cassette & derailleur, then buy them yourself via mail order AND install them yourself (much easier to do than you might think) ... keep the orignal "stuff" for later OR sell it on eBay.
If the shifters are 9-speed, so much the better. If they are 10-speed, then I have found that the
hubbub.com alternate anchor position for the rear derailleur cable (normally used to index a 10-speed Campagnolo shifter to a 9-speed Shimano cassette) should also work in theory to make a 9-speed Shimano rear derailleur act like a 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur when mated with a 10-speed Shimano shifter & 10-speed cassette -- that is, to "simulate" the hubbub.com anchoring, I briefly installed a 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur with its normal anchoring, and it
SEEMED to work on a non-road, workstand test ... your results (and, my subsequent results!) may vary.
A road double (e.g., 53/39) & an 11-34 will give you almost as low a gearing as a triple (52/39/30) with a 12-27 cassette. Shimano doesn't make a 10-speed 11-34, yet, but SRAM supposedly has one, now, AFAIK.
Don't be put off by the generalized & unglamorous nature of a(ny) HYBRID bike -- a HYBRID can be thought of as a (quasi-)touring bike with an aluminum frame & flat handlebars. And, as I noted before, a 29er (very fashionable) can be thought of as either a glorified HYBRID (i.e., even fatter tires + nicer components) or an overgrown MTB.
Drop bars + Campagnolo shifters + handlebar tape + misc. will cost you between $200-to-whatever/($500-or-more-if-you-want) and can be retrofitted on a bike which initially comes with a flat/MTB handlebar.
BTW/FWIW2. I "love" Shimano components AND their North American customer service has been great whenever I have contacted them, but Campagnolo shifters are superior because they can downshift effortlessly when under load (already going uphill). Supposedly, this has been remedied with the 10-speed Shimano shifters. I don't know (yet). I do know that with the 8-and-9-speed Shimano shifters, "learning" to pre-shift before starting an ascent was almost essential. All this is moot for a Flatlander ... but, Flatlanders don't need wide gear ratios OR use triples, either.
BTW2. The next time you are in a bike shop, ask to see a REALLY EXPENSIVE frameset (without components -- a MOOTS would be a great example) ... the visible difference may not be obvious when you first look at it, but if you compare the "quality" of the welding on the high-zoot frame to a low-end (under $1000) TREK (for example) ... one should be close to flawless, the other utilitarian. Sometimes, you pay more for the latest-and-greatest technology, better craftsmanship, or better components ... but, if you don't need any of them (not everyone drives a Bentley), then why spend the money right now even if your budget will allow you to spend more UNTIL you really know what kind of bike(s) you want? It's just my opinion, but I don't think that Specialized bikes, for example (but, I feel the same about Cannondale & Pinarello), warrant any premium for what you are getting.
I've said it before, there are only two groups of people (IMO) who shouldn't do (but, at least know how to do) their own bicycle maintenance -- surgeons & hand models for whom a "slip" might endanger their livelihood. Everyone else should be capable of doing "stuff" on the side of the road on their bikes as needed EVEN if someone else (e.g., spouse) ultimately does it.