frame sizing for a short bloke!



D

didds

Guest
aplogies if this is a FAQ but I am really struggling to come to terms
with "frame sizing".

I am somewhat short - male, 45 years old but only 5'7" tall. More
pertinently my inside leg is 27".

I am trying to underdstand what sizd frame on a racing bike I would
need... according to the following website

http://www.whycycle.co.uk/sizing.htm

"Measure your inside leg measurement to the floor, subtract 3" (for
mountain bikes, or 1" for road bikes) then subtract 10" (the average
distance from the bottom bracket to the ground). This will give you
the maximum frame size that you will need."

This would imply that I would require a ((27-1) - 10) = 16 inch frame
= 40.64 cm

But that sized bike frame is putting me down in the 13 year olds bikes
bracket.

Is that really correct - I should be looking at getting a young teens
bike rather than an edult, 700cc wheel bike?


Reverse engineeriung the above, this would suggest that a 62 cm frame
sized bike would be the right sized for somebody with an inside leg of
((62+10)+1)=73 cm, indicating they have legs almost twice as long as
mine. Now, I know I am short - but I haven't met anybody who's crutch
is in line with my chest!!! So that can't be right - can it?

cheers for any advice

ian
 
didds wrote:
> aplogies if this is a FAQ but I am really struggling to come to terms
> with "frame sizing".
>
> I am somewhat short - male, 45 years old but only 5'7" tall. More
> pertinently my inside leg is 27".
>
> I am trying to underdstand what sizd frame on a racing bike I would
> need...


It's not as easy as it used to be, because where frames always used to
be pretty much the same, these days you can get "compact" frames (with a
sloping back top tube) that (a) effectively reduce the quoted size of
the frame and (b) will typically fit a wider range of riders in any
given size. So it's no longer sensible to say "ah, x inch inside leg,
that'll be a y inch frame, next please!" because the size you need will
vary with the frame style.

So how to get around this? Easy: go to a bike shop with a range of
racing bikes and staff with some Clues and sit on a load and see what
works for you. There is no better way to size up a bike than by trying it.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
On 11 Mar, 10:16, Peter Clinch <[email protected]> wrote:

> So how to get around this?  Easy: go to a bike shop with a range of
> racing bikes and staff with some Clues and sit on a load and see what
> works for you.  There is no better way to size up a bike than by trying it.


Cheers Pete - very sensible advice obviously! :)

cheers

ian
 
On 11 Mar, 10:35, didds <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 11 Mar, 10:16, Peter Clinch <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > So how to get around this?  Easy: go to a bike shop with a range of
> > racing bikes and staff with some Clues and sit on a load and see what
> > works for you.  There is no better way to size up a bike than by trying it.

>
> Cheers Pete - very sensible advice obviously!  :)
>
> cheers
>
> ian


... just gotta keep schtumm that despite all their help and advice
I'll still be buying off ebay in the end more than likely...

ian
 
didds wrote:

> ... just gotta keep schtumm that despite all their help and advice
> I'll still be buying off ebay in the end more than likely...


Such is your prerogative, but of course it'll need to be the same frame
to work in the same size, as I outlined in my previous post (if a
Compact frame fits you at 18" is quite different to a standard frame
fitting at 18", and different compacts have different geometries so you
can't assume one is just like another).

And beyond that, bear in mind that if you're a cyclist then a good
relationship with a local dealer is something that's worth having, and
if they're providing a useful service (and being able to test out a bike
before you buy it is an *incredibly* useful service) it can be in your
longer term interest to pay for it. Also remember that they'll want the
business and if you can produce a web quote for the bike you like that's
better then their offer you can try haggling, and you may end up with
the bike you want from the people that will be helping you in future for
a good price.

Audio rather than cycles, but last year I paid £100 for a pair of
headphones I could've had for £60 + p&P off the web. Sounds like a bad
deal? Probably, until one realises that I later saved £100 on an amp at
the same shop as a valued customer, and recently got a £200 trade in on
a dead and unrepairable CD player as a valued customer, so for my extra
£40 I ended up spending £300 less over the next year. There is more to
value for money than the bottom line, and on top of that if everyone
goes by bottom line alone we'll not have decent cycle shops when we need
them not too far on down the line.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
didds writtificated

> http://www.whycycle.co.uk/sizing.htm


What matters are two things:

1. Bollock clearance on the top tube
2. Reach to the bars

With your comedy short legs you'll be one of the few people that have to
bother about 1. If buying from ebay it might be worth playing it safe and
only bidding on frames with a compact geometry - the sloping top tube gives
more clearance.

For reach to the bars, I'd phone a Specialized dealer and ask their advice.
They have a big-huge folder with size charts for their bikes, tho
Specialized don't put this on t'web. This will give you a good ball park
figure - I've found it to be quite accurate. Ask for the 'actual top tube
length' and the stem length. Add these together and that's the reach
that's prolly best for you.

For your first bike I'd strongly recommend trying before you buy. Buying a
bike without trying it is like buying a pair of shoes without trying 'em
on, 'cept it could be a few hundred quid you're thowing away. That said,
once you know the reach and that you'll have knacker clearance it's a
fairly safe bet.

Good luck!
 
"Peter Clinch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> So how to get around this? Easy: go to a bike shop with a range of
> racing bikes and staff with some Clues and sit on a load and see what
> works for you. There is no better way to size up a bike than by trying
> it.
>


What Pete said.

Different manufacturers have so many slightly different frame geometries
these days the only way to really tell is to try some out.

Or go the whole hog and have a custom bike made from scratch!
 
"didds" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c3bba528-a2af-47f7-877e-f96085f4d738@o77g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On 11 Mar, 10:35, didds <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 11 Mar, 10:16, Peter Clinch <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > So how to get around this? Easy: go to a bike shop with a range of
>> > racing bikes and staff with some Clues and sit on a load and see what
>> > works for you. There is no better way to size up a bike than by trying
>> > it.

>>
>> Cheers Pete - very sensible advice obviously! :)
>>

>
>... just gotta keep schtumm that despite all their help and advice
>I'll still be buying off ebay in the end more than likely...


They're providing a service for you - do the right thing, and pay them for
it. Stock, staff, physical shop all cost money, so it's not unreasonable to
pay a premium for the ability to try it.

If there are any problems with the bike in the future, you'll get better
service from a decent LBS than a dodgy ebay sale - from the trivial things
like adjusting brakes up to full on warranty claims.

Of course if they're miserable gits then going elsewhere is fine - but if
they are helpful, give them an incentive to continue being helpful.

cheers,
clive
 
Quoting didds <[email protected]>:
>>On 11 Mar, 10:16, Peter Clinch <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>So how to get around this? Easy: go to a bike shop with a range of
>>>racing bikes and staff with some Clues and sit on a load and see what
>>>works for you. There is no better way to size up a bike than by trying it.

> just gotta keep schtumm that despite all their help and advice
>I'll still be buying off ebay in the end more than likely...


I hope you get ripped off, then. If you don't intend to buy from the shop,
don't waste their time.
--
David Damerell <[email protected]> Distortion Field!
Today is Saturday, March - a weekend.
 
On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 02:52:51 -0700 (PDT)
didds <[email protected]> wrote:

> aplogies if this is a FAQ but I am really struggling to come to terms
> with "frame sizing".
>
> I am somewhat short - male, 45 years old but only 5'7" tall. More
> pertinently my inside leg is 27".


Sounds like you're a similar age, size and shape to me. Well, I'm
fractionally taller, with a 29" inner leg (according to my trousers).
I've found 52 and 54 cm road frames good - the smaller size more
agile in traffic, the bigger one better for distance riding in comfort.
Though I don't expect that's down to frame size alone!

You might also find my "Love at first sit" post to this newsgroup
(from IIRC last October) relevant.

--
not me guv
 
Another option, if you can't find a standard frame that's right, is
something like a Moulton which combines a low stepover but highly rigid
frame with a good sporting performance (the UCI banned small wheelers
from racing so if you're after a racer for racing you may wish to check
the implications, but for just getting about fast they should be ideal.

Not something you'll find in a bargain bin though... see
http://www.tsr.uk.com/

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
Rob Morley writtificated

>> Ask for the 'actual top tube length'

>
> ITYM "effective top tube length" i.e. measured horizontally from the top
> of the head tube - the "actual" length is the length along the tube.


Ooops, good spot.
 
I don't think you are measuring your inside leg to the ground.
My wife is 5 foot nothing and rode a 19.5" frame.
Another small racing man at 5 foot 1" rode same size


"didds" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> aplogies if this is a FAQ but I am really struggling to come to terms
> with "frame sizing".
>
> I am somewhat short - male, 45 years old but only 5'7" tall. More
> pertinently my inside leg is 27".
>
> I am trying to underdstand what sizd frame on a racing bike I would
> need... according to the following website
>
> http://www.whycycle.co.uk/sizing.htm
>
> "Measure your inside leg measurement to the floor, subtract 3" (for
> mountain bikes, or 1" for road bikes) then subtract 10" (the average
> distance from the bottom bracket to the ground). This will give you
> the maximum frame size that you will need."
>
> This would imply that I would require a ((27-1) - 10) = 16 inch frame
> = 40.64 cm
>
> But that sized bike frame is putting me down in the 13 year olds bikes
> bracket.
>
> Is that really correct - I should be looking at getting a young teens
> bike rather than an edult, 700cc wheel bike?
>
>
> Reverse engineeriung the above, this would suggest that a 62 cm frame
> sized bike would be the right sized for somebody with an inside leg of
> ((62+10)+1)=73 cm, indicating they have legs almost twice as long as
> mine. Now, I know I am short - but I haven't met anybody who's crutch
> is in line with my chest!!! So that can't be right - can it?
>
> cheers for any advice
>
> ian