From V-brakes to 105 road brakes on a flat bar



alig

New Member
Sep 21, 2006
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Hi all
Can I swap mini-v brakes on a flat bar (CRX3) with 105 (BR-5501 "9" speed) brakeset?

2nd Q is, is there anyway to know how much to tighten a crankset without using a torque wrench (eg. tighten until you can't go any further in one motion)

Looking down when seated, I can see the top of the chainset move out away from the frame slightly anytime I pedal hard. It moves 2-3 mm in relation to its position in the derailleur. I've fitted a 105 crankset, but don't want to thread the bolt incase i overtighten
 
alig said:
Can I swap mini-v brakes on a flat bar (CRX3) with 105 (BR-5501 "9" speed) brakeset?
Yes, apparently the Mini-V-brakes were designed to be used with "regular" ROAD brake levers.
alig said:
2nd Q is, is there anyway to know how much to tighten a crankset without using a torque wrench (eg. tighten until you can't go any further in one motion)
Well, AFAIK, the use of a torque wrench is mostly the byproduct of carbon components being crushed when tightening ...

For "regular" components, try this -- tighten the "bolt" by rotating it as tightly as YOU can using your index finger as if you were dialing a ROTARY PHONE. Then, while gripping the tool normally, tighten the bolt 15º-to-30º (dependent on how snug you were able to tighten the bolt using just your finger).

alig said:
Looking down when seated, I can see the top of the chainset move out away from the frame slightly anytime I pedal hard. It moves 2-3 mm in relation to its position in the derailleur. I've fitted a 105 crankset, but don't want to thread the bolt incase i overtighten
As far as your chainset/crankset moving laterally -- it shouldn't!

Which type of crank/BB combination are you using -- Octalink, Hollowtech II, square spindle?
 
Thanks for the reply
I am using a Shimano 105 Octalink FC-5502
Along with the matching (109.5) BB-5500
 
alig said:
Hi all
Can I swap mini-v brakes on a flat bar (CRX3) with 105 (BR-5501 "9" speed) brakeset?

2nd Q is, is there anyway to know how much to tighten a crankset without using a torque wrench (eg. tighten until you can't go any further in one motion)

Looking down when seated, I can see the top of the chainset move out away from the frame slightly anytime I pedal hard. It moves 2-3 mm in relation to its position in the derailleur. I've fitted a 105 crankset, but don't want to thread the bolt incase i overtighten

Are the mini Vs attached on 2 bosses on either side of your front and rear wheel? On the fork legs and seat stays? Then probably not unless the frame has provisions for mounting calipers rather than cantilevers.

If Octalink, grease spindle end well, remove aluminum extractor cap to ensure you have the splines lined up. Put crankarm on, tighten till it stops with a 8mm allen wrench. These are press fit..tighten till they stop and reinstall the extractor cap.
 
Peter@vecchios said:
Are the mini Vs attached on 2 bosses on either side of your front and rear wheel? On the fork legs and seat stays? Then probably not unless the frame has provisions for mounting calipers rather than cantilevers.
Allow me to expand on both my statement & Peter's ...

While the Mini-V-brakes are theoretically interechangeable with a set of "regular" ROAD calipers as far as the LEVER that is used is concerned, the odds are that you will not be able to use the 105 calipers that you are considering ...

But, it isn't because of a lack of mounting holes on the frame and/or fork BECAUSE only "track" frames/forks lack mounting holes with which a pair of ROAD calipers could be readily mounted ...

Rather, it is because the distance between the hole (which MAY simply be there to facilitate mounting a fender/reflectors/whatever) will more-than-likely be more than 49mm from the closest point to the middle of the rim's braking surface. I would just guess that the distance is in the 70+ millimeter range & the BR-5501 has a reach of between 39mm-to-49mm.

TEKTRO still makes "regular" calipers whose reach is greater than 49mm.

Regardless, there will be limited advantage (if any) to replacing your Mini-V-brakes with "regular" ROAD calipers unless you were planning to swap the frame's original fork with a "regular" ROAD fork which is something I did with a "Hybrid" bike that I had (the rear brake was left as-is) ... putting a ROAD fork on the Hybrid frame set the headtube angle at ~73º rather than the slacker angle (~72º) that the frame had with the other fork.
 
Peter
Yes they're attached to 2 bosses on either side
I've also applied plenty of grease to the spindle
I don't know what you mean by the "aluminum extractor cap", is that the crank bolt that screws into the BB

Alfeng, you're right, I measured the reach and its about 70
 
alig said:
I don't know what you mean by the "aluminum extractor cap", is that the crank bolt that screws into the BB
Peter is apparently busy ...

Your '105' cranks did not come with "self extracting" bolts, so unless you retrofitted a pair, there isn't a separate "aluminum extractor cap" that is paired with each crank bolt ... and, as you know, you need a crank removal tool to remove the crankarms from the BB spindle ...

Whereas, with self extracting bolts, the same 8mm Allen Wrench is use for both installation & removal of the respective crankarm.
 
Okay I see
Here's a crazy Q
Do the bolts need to be paired up with the correct crank arm?
ie. is there a L and a R crank bolt?
 
alig said:
Do the bolts need to be paired up with the correct crank arm?
ie. is there a L and a R crank bolt?
There isn't any difference.
 
alfeng said:
Peter is apparently busy ...

Your '105' cranks did not come with "self extracting" bolts, so unless you retrofitted a pair, there isn't a separate "aluminum extractor cap" that is paired with each crank bolt ... and, as you know, you need a crank removal tool to remove the crankarms from the BB spindle ...

Whereas, with self extracting bolts, the same 8mm Allen Wrench is use for both installation & removal of the respective crankarm.

Yep, had to go to work. Yep again, no extractor cap on 105 Octalink but they can be installed. You also need the shimano or FSA 'stub' to place into the BB spindle end before you use a standard crank puller so it has something to push against.
 
Peter@vecchios said:
You also need the shimano or FSA 'stub' to place into the BB spindle end before you use a standard crank puller so it has something to push against.
FWIW. In the States, you can use the standard crank puller + a Nickel coin ...

I don't know what size coin/slug/plug could be substituted in other countries -- you could use whatever coin you normally use on the end of a Flat handlebar under the grip.
 

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