Front derailler adjustment

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Yum, Oct 3, 2004.

  1. Yum

    Yum Guest

    I have a bike with Shimano SRX STI. Tripple chainrings.
    I am not able to shift to the largest chainring.
    I need to click twice to move chain from smallest to middle, and then shift
    down once to make derailer properly aligned to the middle. However, I can
    never shift to the largest ring. I have it adusted at LBS, but it lasted
    only few weeks. I adjusted limit screws, but that does seem to move the
    derailer cage far enough for the lagest chain ring. How can I fix this ?
    TIA
     
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  2. daveornee

    daveornee New Member

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    It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:

    <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
     
  3. Yum

    Yum Guest

    >
    > It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
    > sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
    > cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
    >
    > <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
    >
    >
    > --
    > daveornee
    >


    You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
    advice.
    Thanks a lot !
     
  4. John Everett

    John Everett Guest

    On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:59:34 -0700, "Yum" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >>
    >> It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
    >> sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
    >> cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
    >>
    >> <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
    >>
    >>
    >> --
    >> daveornee
    >>

    >
    >You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
    >advice.
    >Thanks a lot !


    While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
    several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
    (including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
    adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
    the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
    side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
    reattaching the cable at the derailleur.

    Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
    generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
    compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
    stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
    cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
    things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
    compensate.


    jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3
     
  5. Yum

    Yum Guest

    "John Everett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:59:34 -0700, "Yum" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    > >>
    > >> It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
    > >> sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
    > >> cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
    > >>
    > >> <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
    > >>
    > >>
    > >> --
    > >> daveornee
    > >>

    > >
    > >You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
    > >advice.
    > >Thanks a lot !

    >
    > While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
    > several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
    > (including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
    > adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
    > the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
    > side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
    > reattaching the cable at the derailleur.
    >
    > Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
    > generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
    > compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
    > stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
    > cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
    > things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
    > compensate.
    >

    Yes, it is RSX. Sorry. Thank you for a good suggestion. For some
    reason, I am not able to turn
    the adjuster barrel in either direction. Does it mean the cable tesion too
    high ?
    I also want to ask how to replace brake and derailler cables. How can
    remove them the from shifter ?
    Do I have to remove hex screw in front ot the shifter ? Thanks.
     
  6. John Everett

    John Everett Guest

    On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 19:32:58 -0700, "Yum" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >
    >"John Everett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    >news:[email protected]
    >> On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:59:34 -0700, "Yum" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >>
    >> >>
    >> >> It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
    >> >> sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
    >> >> cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
    >> >>
    >> >> <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
    >> >>
    >> >>
    >> >> --
    >> >> daveornee
    >> >>
    >> >
    >> >You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following your
    >> >advice.
    >> >Thanks a lot !

    >>
    >> While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
    >> several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
    >> (including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
    >> adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
    >> the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
    >> side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
    >> reattaching the cable at the derailleur.
    >>
    >> Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
    >> generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
    >> compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
    >> stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
    >> cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
    >> things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
    >> compensate.
    >>

    >Yes, it is RSX. Sorry. Thank you for a good suggestion. For some
    >reason, I am not able to turn
    >the adjuster barrel in either direction. Does it mean the cable tesion too
    >high ?


    No, cable tension would not be sufficient to prevent the adjuster
    barrel from turning. It's probably corrosion in the threads. The first
    thing I'd try is backing it out with a pair of pliers. Be careful
    though since on the RSX group (at least on mine) the adjuster is
    plastic.

    >I also want to ask how to replace brake and derailler cables. How can
    >remove them the from shifter ?
    >Do I have to remove hex screw in front ot the shifter ? Thanks.


    No, on STI shifter/brake levers both cables can be removed without
    taking anything apart. To remove the shifter cable first get the lever
    into the gear with the least cable tension. On both front and rear
    this is accomplished by clicking the inner lever a bunch of times. If
    you've already disconnected the cable from the derailleur, pull on the
    cable while you're doing this. Then squeeze the brakes and look into
    the exposed innards, opposite where the shifter cable housing enters
    the lever. You'll see a hole out of which the cable can be removed.
    Pushing on the cable where it enters the downtube boss should cause
    the little knob at the cable end to pop out of the hole.

    Brake cables are also removed with the lever squeezed. Release the
    lever on the brake that's used when you remove a wheel, or on
    cantilever brakes detach the cable at the brake. Alternatively,
    disconnect the cable at the caliper. This will allow you to squeeze
    the lever fully. Look into the innards of the lever from the front and
    you'll see where the knob at the end of the cable seats in the lever.
    Pushing the cable into the housing at the other end should push the
    knob out of the lever.



    jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3
     
  7. Yum

    Yum Guest

    "John Everett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 19:32:58 -0700, "Yum" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    > >
    > >"John Everett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    > >news:[email protected]
    > >> On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 22:59:34 -0700, "Yum" <[email protected]> wrote:
    > >>
    > >> >>
    > >> >> It sounds like you will need to shift to the smallest ring and make
    > >> >> sure your shifter is "all the way down", then detatch/tighten
    > >> >> cable/re-attach. See details and illustrated instructions at URL:
    > >> >>
    > >> >> <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front>
    > >> >>
    > >> >>
    > >> >> --
    > >> >> daveornee
    > >> >>
    > >> >
    > >> >You are absolutely correct. I could fix the problem by following

    your
    > >> >advice.
    > >> >Thanks a lot !
    > >>
    > >> While I'm not familiar with Shimano's SRX group (see OP), I have
    > >> several other Shimano groups installed on my bikes. Each of them
    > >> (including my RSX...was that a typo in the OP?) has a cable tension
    > >> adjustment where the cable enters the downtube shifter boss. Turning
    > >> the adjuster counterclockwise (when viewed from the cable housing
    > >> side) will increase tension. This is the same thing you acomplished by
    > >> reattaching the cable at the derailleur.
    > >>
    > >> Cables typically need readjustment after some period of use. This is
    > >> generally due to housing ends bedding in their recepticles or housing
    > >> compression. This is sometimes erroneously refered to as "cable
    > >> stretch". For this reason it's a good idea when installing new
    > >> cables/housings to crank the adjuster barrel all the way down. As
    > >> things get "bedded in" there will be plenty of adjustment available to
    > >> compensate.
    > >>

    > >Yes, it is RSX. Sorry. Thank you for a good suggestion. For some
    > >reason, I am not able to turn
    > >the adjuster barrel in either direction. Does it mean the cable tesion

    too
    > >high ?

    >
    > No, cable tension would not be sufficient to prevent the adjuster
    > barrel from turning. It's probably corrosion in the threads. The first
    > thing I'd try is backing it out with a pair of pliers. Be careful
    > though since on the RSX group (at least on mine) the adjuster is
    > plastic.
    >
    > >I also want to ask how to replace brake and derailler cables. How can
    > >remove them the from shifter ?
    > >Do I have to remove hex screw in front ot the shifter ? Thanks.

    >
    > No, on STI shifter/brake levers both cables can be removed without
    > taking anything apart. To remove the shifter cable first get the lever
    > into the gear with the least cable tension. On both front and rear
    > this is accomplished by clicking the inner lever a bunch of times. If
    > you've already disconnected the cable from the derailleur, pull on the
    > cable while you're doing this. Then squeeze the brakes and look into
    > the exposed innards, opposite where the shifter cable housing enters
    > the lever. You'll see a hole out of which the cable can be removed.
    > Pushing on the cable where it enters the downtube boss should cause
    > the little knob at the cable end to pop out of the hole.
    >
    > Brake cables are also removed with the lever squeezed. Release the
    > lever on the brake that's used when you remove a wheel, or on
    > cantilever brakes detach the cable at the brake. Alternatively,
    > disconnect the cable at the caliper. This will allow you to squeeze
    > the lever fully. Look into the innards of the lever from the front and
    > you'll see where the knob at the end of the cable seats in the lever.
    > Pushing the cable into the housing at the other end should push the
    > knob out of the lever.
    >


    Thanks for a detailed instruction. This is very helpful.
     
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