Quote: Originally Posted by Owboduz .
Absolutely! It is the principle of the thing! It's about holding companies to account and expecting decent workmanship and customer service.
This vendor sent me a multitool with the bike. A nice inclusion! But it didn't have a 4mm hex driver and the bike uses mostly 4mm hex bolts. I contacted them about this and they said they shipped the same multitool with all their bikes and it was bad luck that my bike used 4mm hex bolts. I pointed out that the multitool they had shipped me came with TWO 3mm hex drivers. They shipped me a new one. This is no different.
Could I "fix" that adjuster? Yes. Will I fix it in the way you suggest? Maybe. TBH, I'll probably go with whatever oldbobcat says if the vendor doesn't come through. I've agreed with what he's had to say so far:
I wish you would stop making assumptions about the situation I am in. I shouldn't have to tell you that I had a lot of tools. I shouldn't have to tell you that I had to sell many of my tools and put most of the rest in storage. I shouldn't have to tell you that I moved to another country for work and my wife and I packed everything into two pallets. I shouldn't have to tell you that with my 9-month old daughter, I have priorities other than tools. Don't tell me that I take pride in not being able to DIY. You don't know me.
It doesn't matter that a set of files isn't expensive. I'm looking at the tradeoff between filing down threads, which can go wrong, and replacing the bolt, which is pretty-well guaranteed to go right. The bolt in the barrel adjuster is a sub-$10 part. This is an obvious decision.
But maybe you're not used to ordering things with Amazon Prime. They deliver tomorrow. Guess where I would buy files? I'll take the replacement barrel adjuster, thanks.
What, I should replace my shifters because the production mechanic didn't install the derailleur correctly and jammed my barrel adjuster? That makes no sense. I am realistic. I expect things to be installed according to the dealer manual. Because, you know, they're a dealer. The manual is for them. When a company doesn't do the job right, I expect them to take responsibility for that and make amends.
Not withstanding that, I knew that the Claris groupset was the low end of the road bike groupsets. Not only that, but I don't even have a full Claris groupset; I have Tektro R315 brakes, an unbranded crankset, and an unbranded square-taper bottom bracket. I was prepared to replace some or all of the groupset if and when I was unhappy with the performance of the element(s) in question.
Currently, I am happy with shifting performance when the front derailleur is installed and adjusted properly. Despite not having full use of the front barrel adjuster, I seem to have manage to get the setup right, so I currently have smooth, perfect shifts.
That depends on the knife.
If it's a cheap knife that won't hold an edge, I go buy a new one, preferably one that will actually hold an edge.
If it's a ceramic knife, I get it professionally re-edged or I replace it.
If it's a good quality steel knife, I sharpen it.
Generally, I'm the one being kind to others on longer rides. I'm the one who takes a saddle-mount toolkit with me. I'm the one who's willing to stop for others. I'm the one with a patch kit and spare tubes. I'm not saying there aren't others who take the same view. I'm just explaining that, once again, you don't know me.
I didn't miss your point. Your point isn't relevant to the discussion, so I didn't respond to it. I'll take it under advisement if I decide to change components. Like I said, as long as my shifting performance is good when installed and adjusted properly, I have no interest in changing components.
OY!!!
Before I begin, let me say that
I am glad that you got the outcome you were hoping for ....
Now, despite your protestation, you do (
continue to) miss the point ...
YOU should NOT replace your shifters ...
- YOU made that option clearly unacceptable for you when you opted for your "new" Road bike rather than retrofitting your old Hybrid bike with Drop handlebars + Road shifters replacement components, if any, are the bike owner's prerogative
- as it was your prerogative to want a replacement for the cable adjuster whose thread is damaged BUT, you have to realize that there are lurkers in most threads for whom the posted queries & replies may be important
- so, while you may be the principal person in this thread, you are not the only reader many-or-most may follow your path
- some may agree that it is easier to remedy the problem without a return trip to an LBS or going through the process/hassle of contact + mailing the part back + re-installing such a trivial component that is, often the part needs to be sent back before a replacement is sent
- depending on your multi-tool, the file may be adequate to clean up the damaged threads on the barrel adjuster possibly, something worth investigating at some future point in time if only to determine the limits of your multi-tool
- because, I think that the file which is often found on a pair of nail clippers could be used to clean up the threads on the damaged barrel adjuster (yes, it would probably take a longer amount of time than you would want to spend unless you were desperate)
[*]regardless, I suspect that it is your expressed
Lord-or-the-Manor attitude which is stereotypical of one of the reasons why the British Empire was lost
[*]other than the earlier suggestion in the earlier thread where I suggested that you could simply install Drop handlebars + (
specifically) Campagnolo shifters (
because I perceive it as the most economical option) I was trying to indicate the fastest-and-easiest option is always (IMO) to simply replace the Shimano shifters with another brand ...
- I don't know what the Claris shifters would sell for on eBay, but I do know that the "better" Shimano Road shifters command almost when "used" shifters as a new pair of the less expensive Campagnolo shifters would cost on eBay due to a lack of demand of the latter
- so, it was-and-is a "why not?" situation, IMO because the components on a bike when it is unpacked are generally NOT wedded to a frameset
- and, there is nothing wrong with being a wise shopper
[*]so, don't worry about your shifters at this point in time, but RATHER take it as an advisement & information that there is a known design issue (
whether it is a problem or not is up to the end user) with the design of Shimano's MECHANICAL Road shifters which does not exist in the design of Campagnolo, SRAM (
which will cost MORE than an inexpensive set of Campagnolo shifters), and (
presumably) MicroShift shifters (
which I believe will cost the same-as-or-more-than a set of Campagnolo shifters).
That's a long way of reiterating the point was-and-is simply that the shifters CAN BE relevant to how readily the derailleurs function and/or can be adjusted ...
- even oldbobcat has previously expressed having had some difficulty adjusting a front derailleur (which as not connected to a Campagnolo shifter) ... at least once ... THAT may simply be a consequence of the thin air at Boulder's high altitude because two other people from the Boulder area seem to have expressed a similar sentiment in the past
- WHY struggle with a poor design once it is understood that a better option exists?
- And, as I noted, while some people have chosen SRAM (yuk!!!) for the me-too effect, SOME migration to SRAM has been for other reasons.
BTW. The person to whom you refer as the "production mechanic" is undoubtedly merely an under-paid assembler whose task is (
presumably) to ensure that a specific-and/or-ALL the component(s) (
depending on where s/he is in the assembly line) is/are included ...
As suggested by
oldbobcat, that person is probably making as little as $2-per-day ...
So, IMO, to expect the same level of "quality control" on a truly mass produced bike as one would find on a bike which might cost 10x as much which is really very unrealistic due to time constraints in the former case which are in place to ensure a price point.
AND, one of the reasons that a person theoretically benefits from buying a bike in person from a brick-and-mortar bike shop is because the shop's Wrench presumably ensures that everything on the bike is good-to-go when it rolls out the door.
- in addition to replacing "defective" components, I would not be surprised if oldbobcat has occasionally chosen to check and/or to remedy the workmanship (i.e., assembly and/or adjustments) of either his subordinates or of the work performed in the past by another bike shop from-time-to-time.
BTW2. The "unbranded" square taper BB & crank on your current Road bike are undoubtedly heavier than a crankset which could cost as much as you paid for your current Road bike ... but, presuming the crankarms on your bike don't come loose from the spindle AND are not abused by the bike being left in the elements, they (
and, the BB) can last much longer than you might currently anticipate ...
- FYI. One of the many cranksets which I have is a Campagnolo UT Chorus crankset which is currently listed as being between [COLOR=rgb(177, 39, 4) !important]$394.94 - $790.00[/COLOR] on one Amazon.com page [your apparent preferred retailer]... no, I do not recall what I paid for mine ... it wasn't even close to $790 no, I don't know why I opted to buy it or some other components which I have other than for momentary, whimsical reasons
- that is, IMO, one's aesthetic sensibility can be a valid reason for choosing-this-or-that AND would be a reason to NOT buy the current generation (V3) of Campagnolo shifters because their fugliness continues to exceed their utility!
[*]is a Chorus UT crankset really THAT MUCH better than the current crankset on your bike?
- the Chorus UT crankset is nice, BUT probably not that much better when push-comes-to-shove as long the derailleurs are mated to you-know-the-brand shfiters!!!
- would someone be foolish to pay $790 for just a crankset? Some people apparently pay MORE for Super-/Record cranksets!!
Tektro brake calipers should not be dismissed as being that much less efficient than more expensive "branded" (
e.g., Shimano & Campagnolo) calipers under most riding circumstances. In fact, Tektro brake calipers are probably better than the ultra-light, high-zoot calipers which may not be as stiff.
- As long as the pads (on any Road brake caliper) are not glazed, then ensuring that your cables are properly lubed and/or NOT kinked will go a long way toward almost any contemporary Road brake caliper being efficient at slowing-or-stopping (as is the case desired by the rider) a bike.
BTW3. I hope that if-or-when the time ever comes for new-or-different components for your bike that you continue to support Shimano rather than opt for Campagnolo shifters/components because someone has to keep that behemoth in business so that I will be able to continue to source my chains from them!
