FSA crank arm compatability??

[CTHRUU]

I have a set of FSA Gossamer triple cranks and was wondering if the crank arm spacing is the same for a triple vs conventional.

To be more exact- there are a nice set of FSA carbon pro cranks and bb's without rings. Could I get these and us my triple rings with them?

 

[alfeng]

FYI. [COLOR= #008000]130BCD[/COLOR] has become the de facto standard chainring size for Road cranks (there are some exceptions) ...

The FSA Gossamer Triple has 130BCD chainrings (outer & middle) ...

The FSA Pro Carbon cranks also use the same size 130BCD chainrings.

So, there is a 99.99% probability that you will be able to use the outer & middle chainrings from your current FSA Triple on a FSA Carbon Pro crankset if that is what you want to do.

FSA cranks which use 110BCD chainrings are usually labeled as using such somewhere on the crank's spider ... also, other peculiarities such as Octalink, ISIS, etc. are often indicated on the spider of FSA cranks.

 

[oldbobcat]

Unless you happen to be looking at a set of Elite Carbon Pro Compact cranks, with the 110 mm BCD. I always measure when I'm not sure.

But the crank arm spacing is the same.

If these are two-piece cranks with the spindle attached to the drive side crank, spindle length will not be an issue. But if this is a three-piece setup (right crank, bottom bracket, plus left crank), you will need a shorter spindle.

You will need a front derailleur for double chainrings.

And setting up your triple front control levers for double operation will be tricky, but feasible. Basically, you need to lock out the outermost ring with the the outer limit screw, and then adjust cable tension carefully so you don't accidentally overshift and jam the lever.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by oldbobcat .

You will need a front derailleur for double chainrings.

And setting up your triple front control levers for double operation will be tricky, but feasible. Basically, you need to lock out the outermost ring with the the outer limit screw, and then adjust cable tension carefully so you don't accidentally overshift and jam the lever.

FWIW. I guess that I've been away from setting-up & using Shimano shifters for too long ... or, I've just been lucky the few times I've set up a Double when using a Triple-capable Shimano shifter ...

• because, I thnk it is pretty easy to go from a Triple to a Double ... basically, it's usually just a matter of adjusting the outer stop AFTER swapping cranksets.
• and, IMO, there is no reason to change the front (or, rear) derailleur ... the only ([COLOR= #ff0000]?[/COLOR]) disadvantage ([COLOR= #808080]again, IMO[/COLOR]) of using a Triple front derailleur is the added weight ...
• shifting should actually be marginally better when using a Triple-capable front derailleur regardless of the crankset ([COLOR= #808080]IMO[/COLOR]).
  

The ONLY caveat which 'I' would suggest with DIY changes is that you need to ensure that you do NOT change the chain-type ...

• if you've got a 10-speed on your bike, continue to use a 10-speed chain ...
• if you have a 9-speed on your bike, continue to use a 9-speed chain ...
• et cetera.

FWIW. IMO, Shimano chains are the "best buy" ...