FSA slk crankset/bb clicking

[Dennis Gunn]

I have a new FSA slk compact carbon crankset on a Merlin extralight. Cranks were fine until recently when they developed a "creak/clicking" sound which occurs only while pedaling. It seems to be coming from the bottom bracket and resonates through the frame. Megaexo bottom bracket and crank bolt was tightened again by LBS. This took care of the problem for all of 50 miles when the creak came back. Crank bolt was found to be loose again and tightened. This process has been repeated 3x cause each time the crank bolt loosens up again and the creak comes right back. Torque is done with a park tool beam type wrench using specs between what is recommended in the manual, and what is stamped on the bolt(100 kgf-cm difference between the two, don't ask me why). Was thinking of using loctite, but I'm not sure if that would void my warranty. Anyone else experiencing the same problem? Will put in a call to FSA tomorrow. That sound is driving me nuts.

I am considering buying the K-Force megaexo with the ceramic revolution BB. However, on a ride today one of my friends with the SLK megaexo BB has been experiencing the the crankarms loosening up. Has anyone been experiencing this type of problem and has it been rectified? Not sure if the creaking issues talked about are the same problem or is this another issue with FSA?

 

[eliu]

I am considering buying the K-Force megaexo with the ceramic revolution BB. However, on a ride today one of my friends with the SLK megaexo BB has been experiencing the the crankarms loosening up. Has anyone been experiencing this type of problem and has it been rectified? Not sure if the creaking issues talked about are the same problem or is this another issue with FSA?

I had sent my SLK compact crankset back to FSA. after checking it out, they said that everything looked fine but sent be a new left crank arm and crankarm bolt with loctite applied. So far so good, no creak or loosening of the crankarm. The other thing they said to make sure of is the face of your bb shell. May need to be refaced if not perfect so as to keep bb cups tight.

 

[t4mv]

Hmmm, 'very timely and interesting thread; I too have an slk compact crankset on a Merlin XL like eliu and I have an annoying minor creak that is not cyclical in nature (so I know it's not something lame like the drive arm hitting the FD cage, or some other physical contact). It does seem to happen on either ring and so far I have tried the following:
1) lubed and retightened the 5 alloy c-ring bolts. Did not overtorque
2) removed the non-drive arm and lubed the threads on the M? crankbolt and retightened the arm and bolt. Again didn't overtorque
3) Went for a 20something mile ride after 1&2 above, and no change, creak still there. It does seem somewhat sensitive to pedal pressure so I can fool myself for a little while by backing off the pedal pressure, but what fun is that?...

Though I haven't taken everything off the BB and measured like eliu has, I'm pretty sure that the shell width is within reason of 68mm, and the faces are parallel. I have a brand new SRAM 9-speed FW and a relatively new Shimano 9 spd chain (<100 mi when mated w/ the crankset from hell). The rear wheel discussion is a possibility as I have 10 YO Mavic Cosmics with the funky (IMO) cones, so maybe I should take the rear wheel off and back the cone off and see if I can juuust get the rear wheel to be snug w/ the QR tightened and no slop in the hub.. Alternatively I could try throwing another rear wheel on the bike and see if the creak goes away. It's just pretty annoying because the other bike that the test wheel would be coming from currently has a Gossamer compact on it, with the same chain (model, not physical chain), and Shimano 9-speed FW, and it's like buttah, so it's a bit disappointing for an SLK/MegaExo setup to be, uhm, lacking.

There are a couple more things I could still try, but, thanks, everyone, for chipping in with your helpful suggestions, I appreciate the thought and tenacity you guys put into this. I'll silence this thing yet!

 

[free_rideman]

Had a simillar problem......

Two years ago I bought the FSA Gossamer Compact MegaExo crankset. Got it installed by my LBS, and it produced that clicking sound, but loudly! (on my trek 1200) I thought my Dura Ace pedals were busted. So the LBS tightened up the cranks and the problem was solved. But the cranks didn't spin as freely, and there was still small amounts of play.

Now about a month ago, I finished building my new custom road bike. Obviously since I was building, I was just going to do everything myself, but for some reason I let my bike shop do it. So they installed my old crankset and bb since they were fairly new. I never road my 1200 that much.

But then I realize that my crankset is super loose! And if I tighten it, it just doesn't spin very well at all. So after talking to the LBS guys, they got me a new MegaExo bottom bracket under warranty. The cool thing though, is they got me the better one: the bb-8000 instead of the intended bb-6000. (It says you aren't supposed to do that) But guess what? It worked! This time I installed it, and I actually realized that the bike shop put the o-ring on the wrong side, which probably was the reason it didn't work before.

Just one thing, when you ever tighten these things, make sure that there is no play in the cranks. Never overtighten it, or under tighten. Use logic, and no I didn't have a torque wrench, but it still worked for me! I love my cranks now. When you actually take the time to install them right, they work so well!

 

[woodchuck]

I have had the following problems with my FSA Gossamer Compact MegaExo with less than 700 miles:

1) crank arm came loose once (tightened and has not happened since)
2) play developed from side to side many times (retightened each time).
3) uneven spinning & binding when spinning the cranks
4) small creak/tinging when pedaling out of the saddle.

The LBS refaced the BB (at about 400 miles) and 2 and 3 seem to have resolved. (4) is still a problem. I removed the non-drive arm today and lightly greased pinch bolts and spindle and will try it out tomorrow.

 

[t4mv]

So spoke w/ one of the guys at FSA about some related stuff, like whether or not the drive side spider o-ring is needed or not (since mine is toast, I guess not...) and the main thing about the FSA cranksets is that you want to make sure the spacing is right on the money for what you're supposed to have. If you have an Eng BB then you want to be @ 68mm with the shell faces faced and parallel because at the end of the day you want to slap everything together and have the non-drive arm slide and tighten all the way down to the end of the splines and cinch the crankbolt to spec (and not have binding nor slop). That means the spacer for the non-drive bearing cup that goes against the BB shell is somewhat key to whether or not your spacing is going to be close or not (as eliu mentioned earlier). Theoretically it's supposed to be that easy, but, if people's cranks are loosening crankbolts and making noises, then you'd want to at least make sure the BB on your bike isn't the cause.

 

[wooliferkins]

Been trying to nail this issue at work today, Mega Exos are hung differently to trad BBs, go to the Full Speed Ahead Web site. All the torque loadings are there. Spare washers etc are available via Windwave, Spare packages on the site where i work next week (dotbike), I can only write copy so fast. FSAs drawings on the site are really clear but they need to be Pt No labelled like Campags! Youre both Italian sort it out! My Truvative crank on the fixie is doing this I think because I rushed the post delivery torqs. Keep us posted.

Well here is my update. Everything was reinstalled, initially without the left crush washer as per FSA, however, without the washer there is a 2 mm gap between the left bb cup and the bb shell. This can't be right, so I put the crush washer back on which filled up the gap. Torqued crankbolt to spec and went for a 40 mile ride. Everything was fine until mile 35 when that oh so familiar creak came back. Man this is frustrating! Yes I've tried to check for other sources, but it still points back at the crankset. Nothing is loose at this time, though I need to check the bb cup again. I was thinking of greasing all of the chainring bolts, but they were all put in with loctite and seem very snug and secure. Does anyone have any suggestions or answers. Again, the creak only occurs while I'm pedaling, seated or standing, big or small gears. As soon as it appears, it then can disappear for a few miles, then unfortunately return.

 

[99996sps]

I have had this problem for some time also initially caused by the left arm loosening(fixed using loctite) now however the problem seems terminal as the left arm is able to move on the spline, even when fully tightened i.e.bottomed out against the shoulder of the drive side spline.People here have spoken of the taper, I dont know that mine ever had any noticeable taper and thru movement now has clearance.Warranty is probably not an option for me as I bought these new from ebay and also I am in Australia.At this stage I am thinking I may have to put this one down to experience and just buy a dura ace set.....P.S. I have external bearing type crankset setups on 3 other bikes (2 shimano and a truvativ) and these have been trouble free and easy to maintain.My point of view is that the FSA system is inferior and the fact that mine is a throw away after less than 3000 miles leaves me aching in the wallet!

 

[wooliferkins]

I have had this problem for some time also initially caused by the left arm loosening(fixed using loctite) now however the problem seems terminal as the left arm is able to move on the spline, even when fully tightened i.e.bottomed out against the shoulder of the drive side spline.People here have spoken of the taper, I dont know that mine ever had any noticeable taper and thru movement now has clearance.Warranty is probably not an option for me as I bought these new from ebay and also I am in Australia.At this stage I am thinking I may have to put this one down to experience and just buy a dura ace set.....P.S. I have external bearing type crankset setups on 3 other bikes (2 shimano and a truvativ) and these have been trouble free and easy to maintain.My point of view is that the FSA system is inferior and the fact that mine is a throw away after less than 3000 miles leaves me aching in the wallet!

I dont think life is ever so bad that you have to buy Shimano. However, it sound as if your crank is biffed. I dont know of a crankset that is so precise about its torques and assembly, even too much grease on the mating faces will cause it to not seat right. We all can imagine the problems if you assemble them dry!

 

[tanggoman]

Well here is my update. Everything was reinstalled, initially without the left crush washer as per FSA, however, without the washer there is a 2 mm gap between the left bb cup and the bb shell. This can't be right, so I put the crush washer back on which filled up the gap. Torqued crankbolt to spec and went for a 40 mile ride. Everything was fine until mile 35 when that oh so familiar creak came back. Man this is frustrating! Yes I've tried to check for other sources, but it still points back at the crankset. Nothing is loose at this time, though I need to check the bb cup again. I was thinking of greasing all of the chainring bolts, but they were all put in with loctite and seem very snug and secure. Does anyone have any suggestions or answers. Again, the creak only occurs while I'm pedaling, seated or standing, big or small gears. As soon as it appears, it then can disappear for a few miles, then unfortunately return.

Just live with it! I have an FSA gossamer alum crankset and it gives a similar noise as what you're describing. Search on the web for FSA megaexo crankset and what you'll read are mostly complaints about creaking/clicking noises.

So the bottom line, as long as you can do your rides without any parts breakdown, you're good to go. Just make sure to check your bike before you ride though. Good luck!

 

[t4mv]

A month or so ago, I finally got so frustrated (because I had tried all the crank-related stuff about 3X over) with the dreaded click that I switched wheels w/ another bike, and.....the !@#$%^& noise went away! I guess it's a function of chain and cassette combo because that's the only thing that changed.


Chainline is worth a look, too, but if the shell and rear spacing (and the frame was built right!) are right, there shouldn't be any nasty noises.

 

[wooliferkins]

Just live with it! I have an FSA gossamer alum crankset and it gives a similar noise as what you're describing. Search on the web for FSA megaexo crankset and what you'll read are mostly complaints about creaking/clicking noises.

So the bottom line, as long as you can do your rides without any parts breakdown, you're good to go. Just make sure to check your bike before you ride though. Good luck!

Live with it and you'll end up like 9996 above. If you like spending money without good reason on your bike please shop with us

 

[ridinrich]

I've been riding the FSA carbon compact crank for just over one season. On my Tuesday night ride I noticed that my left foot was tilting to the outside. My first thought was I broke another pedal. Not the problem. Then I checked the cleat and finally my shoe. No luck.

At my LBS, the mechanic found that the crank arm was cracked in two directions! FSA has replaced the entire crank with the SLK compact carbon. Now I can't wait to ride and hear the clicking!

 

[woodchuck]

I have had the following problems with my FSA Gossamer Compact MegaExo with less than 700 miles:

1) crank arm came loose once (tightened and has not happened since)
2) play developed from side to side many times (retightened each time).
3) uneven spinning & binding when spinning the cranks
4) small creak/tinging when pedaling out of the saddle.

The LBS refaced the BB (at about 400 miles) and 2 and 3 seem to have resolved. (4) is still a problem. I removed the non-drive arm today and lightly greased pinch bolts and spindle and will try it out tomorrow.

Update - After many more problems with this crank, my LBS sent it back to FSA. FSA replaced the crank and the bottom bracket. It looks like they may have sent me a 2007 because the bottom bracket is a different color (but maybe not).

Everything seemed great until the last few rides (good for about 200 miles). It is loose again. I suspect the creaking/clicking will be back soon. I will try tightening this one up but it seems like it is on the same path as the previous one.

 

[hd reynolds]

Have you tried installing the cups with loctite on the BB threads or teflon on the cup threads.

 

[woodchuck]

Have you tried installing the cups with loctite on the BB threads or teflon on the cup threads.

I believe it is the crank that is coming loose and not the BB. I meant I would be tightening the left crank down a touch.

If it is the BB I would probably not try this without the blessing of my LBS. The BB and crank are still udner warrantee so I don't want to do anything that might wreck that until the period is up.

Thanks for the advice, however.

I am beginning to wonder if this is a common problem with all external bearing BB and crank combos. I looked at a lot of reviews of other external bearing-based cranks and all have someone complaining about this same problems (i.e. creaking and play). Anyone have any feedback on this???

 

[Dennis Gunn]

I am considering buying the K-Force megaexo with the ceramic revolution BB. However, on a ride today one of my friends with the SLK megaexo BB has been experiencing the the crankarms loosening up. Has anyone been experiencing this type of problem and has it been rectified? Not sure if the creaking issues talked about are the same problem or is this another issue with FSA?

2/07/07. Still having problems with my FSA K-Force mega exo crank w/ ceramic BB. If i hold the right crank arm still i can move the left crank arm about a 1/4 inch forward and back. Nothing looks stripped, it seems like the threads are not machined correctly. The left arm also has some play inward and outward. I know other people are having the same problem and i am not sure what to do. I will take to LBS and see what he says. Has anyone sent there setup back to FSA and how did you fair with solution or replacement?

 

[woodchuck]

2/07/07. Still having problems with my FSA K-Force mega exo crank w/ ceramic BB. If i hold the right crank arm still i can move the left crank arm about a 1/4 inch forward and back. Nothing looks stripped, it seems like the threads are not machined correctly. The left arm also has some play inward and outward. I know other people are having the same problem and i am not sure what to do. I will take to LBS and see what he says. Has anyone sent there setup back to FSA and how did you fair with solution or replacement?

My LBS sent my Gossamer/Exo crank (the cheaper version) back. They replaced the whole crank and bottom bracket and it has the same problem. I am just going to ride it until it dies and replace it. I have talked with two LBSs and they have both had the same problems with all the FSA, external bearing cranks.

 

[sideshow_bob]

i'd never heard of teflon tape on the cup threads and have never used it just assembling with a light application of grease.

i got a new bb the other day and instead of instantly throwing the instructions away as is my normal very bad habit, i saw they recommended 2-3 wraps of teflon tape.

does anyone else use this? does it help with bb creaking?

--brett

 

[alfeng]

i'd never heard of teflon tape on the cup threads and have never used it just assembling with a light application of grease.

i got a new bb the other day and instead of instantly throwing the instructions away as is my normal very bad habit, i saw they recommended 2-3 wraps of teflon tape.

does anyone else use this? does it help with bb creaking?

--brett

WHAT!?! How quickly you (choose to) forget ...