In article <
[email protected]>,
"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <
[email protected]>
wrote:
>"B.B." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news[email protected]...
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> [...stuck thing woes...]
>>
>> If you ever again have a destroyable round thing pressed around a
>> non-destroyable round thing, use and anvil and a cold chisel. In this
>> case set the setter on an anvil (or a vise's fixed jaw, or concrete
>> floor, even) and use a cold chisel to put score marks around the
>> outside. Ought to make little lines parallel to the tube. Do a bunch,
>> like eight or twelve, space 'em as even as you can. Thicker things need
>
>Put score marks before grinding on them?
Nope. Those score marks are actually "peening" to expand the metal
on the outside. Actual score marks are more for breaking stuff along a
line. You aren't trying to break anything, you just want to stretch it
out a bit. Wherever you leave a chisel line/dent it will slightly
compress the metal underneath, squeezing a small amount out to either
side. On a thick chunk there's more room for the metal to just compress
without squeezing out to the sides very much. On thinner stuff this
works better because the metal moves out to the sides by a larger
distance with the same amount of hammering. Grinding is just to get you
as thin a metal surface as possible, so that peening afterward is more
effective (you could peen first and grind second without hurting
anything, but you wouldn't gain anything by it).
However, that might be overkill, depending on the metal that collar
is/was made of. If it's some aluminum alloy, don't bother
grinding--just peen it. Same goes for most steels. But if it's
something really hard like a bearing race, or something springy like
titanium, you'll save yourself some pain by grinding first.
I use this to remove seals, bushings, or extremely tightly seized
bearings on farm equipment and trucks. Should work just find for
bicycles, too--you'll just need a smaller hammer.
>> more lines. If you can, grind the outside down first. THEN try a
>> puller. Sometimes it'll loosen enough to pop off by hand.
>> No chisel? Ball-peen hammer can do it too, but not quite as well.
>> Has worked for me even on big, nasty, non-bike parts.
>> Also, teach the other guy to do a stupidity check before making any
>> moves. Teach him to ask questions like "will this fly apart?" "Will it
>> stick?" "What's behind it?" "What will bend?"
>
>He's definitely going to be using a delicate touch from now on.
--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/