Giant Rainer

Discussion in 'Mountain Bikes' started by Xtc, May 1, 2003.

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  1. Xtc

    Xtc Guest

    Does anyone know if this is a good hardtail for light trail riding? Any other bikes I should
    consider in this price / quality range. Pros / Cons? Thx for any advice. Xtc
     
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  2. Loki

    Loki New Member

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    Hey.

    I was considering the Giant Rainier for my first bike, then decided to go higher-end and looked at the Giant XtC SE-2. After a bit of research and talking to a few bike shop guys they reccomended something with stronger dropouts and Hydraulic disc brakes and almost the same components as the XtC2, the Raceline Comp ($700 USD or so). I reccomend either the Rainier or the Raceline Enduro (Entry level Raceline hardtail for around $500 at a guess)


    Rainier reviews. ~$820

    Giant XtC2 Reviews. ~$800-$1100

    Remember: Always ask for a deal or discount :)
     
  3. B. Sanders

    B. Sanders Guest

    "Xtc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > Does anyone know if this is a good hardtail for light trail riding? Any other bikes I should
    > consider in this price / quality range. Pros / Cons?

    Pros: Near-perfect parts spec. Best value in its class. Giant quality speaks for itself. Cons: Feels
    very heavy. Rims could be better quality.

    I test rode a 2002 Rainier SE. Didn't like it - too heavy. Decided to build my own disc hardtail:

    2003 Weyless Easton Ultralite (black) Avid CPS disc brakes (the best) 2001 Manitou Mars Elite
    (black, w/ lockout) XTR/XT/LX/Syncros/RaceFace LP drivetrain
    XT/Ritchey/Sun 0 Deg Lite disc wheels (built them myself) RockShox seatpost (love it) WTB
    SST Ti saddle

    Weight: ~23.1 lb Total cost: ~$600 (mostly new components) I may end up going to V-brakes, because
    discs aren't really any better, IMO, and they're a *lot* heavier!. With a lighter wheelset (Alex
    A-Class), this could easily be a sub-20lb bike.

    The Giant Rainier is a *lot* less trouble, and ready to hit the trails, for not a lot more money.
    For light trail riding, it's probably overkill; but should be very reliable. You can't go wrong for
    the price.

    -Barry
     
  4. > components as the XtC2, the Raceline Comp ($700 USD or so). I reccomend either the Rainier or the
    > Raceline Enduro (Entry level Raceline hardtail for around $500 at a guess)

    Raceline doesn't sell abroad, does it?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  5. Watimena

    Watimena Guest

    I reckon it looks pretty good.... Reasonable gear on it.

    If you can afford an SE-2 I would go for that. It's outstanding value for money, very light and
    fast, and decent gear on it.

    Jeremy

    "Xtc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > Does anyone know if this is a good hardtail for light trail riding? Any other bikes I should
    > consider in this price / quality range. Pros / Cons? Thx for any advice. Xtc
     
  6. MTBScottie

    MTBScottie Guest

    "Xtc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
    > Does anyone know if this is a good hardtail for light trail riding? Any other bikes I should
    > consider in this price / quality range. Pros / Cons? Thx for any advice. Xtc

    I have a 2002 Giant Rainier that I am taking with me overy my 1000 +plus full suspension bike. I
    actually wish I had made this my first bike. Although this years model comes with clipless pedals, I
    believe my 2002 is the best equipped, with a Marzocchi Bomber air fork and avid mechanical disc
    brakes. It is a little heavy compared to the XTC 1 or 2, but you won't notice it on the trail. It is
    very light and quick feeling. People are amazed at how much I didn't pay for it when I take it to
    the trails. As far as the bigger mass producers of bikes go, I think the Rainier is probably the
    best buy you can find.
     
  7. Shaun Rimmer

    Shaun Rimmer Guest

    B. Sanders said:

    >Avid CPS disc brakes (the best)

    Then said:

    > I may end up going to V-brakes, because discs aren't really any better,
    IMO,
    > and they're a *lot* heavier!.

    So, you must have lied in the first bit - if those Avids aren't really any better than V's, they
    must be shit - QED. My Hope Mini is stacks better than any V's I've had (and I set them up
    awesomely) or any V's I've used on other's bikes (including the bikes of several pro bike
    mechanics). I can stop with the Hopes as quickly as if safe using the end of one finger on the lever
    should I choose too, and with 2 fingers, the effort required is comparatively (to V's) minute.
    That's in the wet, the dry, mud, sand - all conditions.

    Shaun aRe say ditch the Avids and get some proper discs - _Hope_.
     
  8. Mark

    Mark Guest

    "Xtc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
    > Does anyone know if this is a good hardtail for light trail riding? Any other bikes I should
    > consider in this price / quality range. Pros / Cons? Thx for any advice. Xtc

    I was considering buying the Rainer. For the money you definitly get good componants. I ended up
    getting the XTC2 instead and upgraded to the Avid disc brakes that are on the Rainer. I preferred
    the lighter weight of the XTC.
     
  9. B. Sanders

    B. Sanders Guest

    "Shaun Rimmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    >
    > B. Sanders said:
    >
    > >Avid CPS disc brakes (the best)
    >
    > Then said:
    >
    > > I may end up going to V-brakes, because discs aren't really any better,
    > IMO,
    > > and they're a *lot* heavier!.
    >
    > So, you must have lied in the first bit - if those Avids aren't really any better than V's, they
    > must be shit - QED.

    Avids are the best *mechanical disc brakes*. I think we can all agree on that. There's a whack of
    difference between "the best" and "shit". Disc brakes are heavier; but they still have some benefits
    over V-brakes. You know it, and I know it. For the kind of terrain I ride, disc brakes are overkill.
    I'll never need them except in sloppy, wet conditions. I built my wheels for V's or discs because I
    knew I might switch back to V's later. Nice to have options, isn't it?

    > My Hope Mini is stacks better than any V's I've had (and I set them up awesomely) or any V's I've
    > used on other's bikes (including the bikes of several pro bike mechanics). I can stop with the
    > Hopes as quickly as if safe using the end of one finger on
    the
    > lever should I choose too, and with 2 fingers, the effort required is comparatively (to V's)
    > minute. That's in the wet, the dry, mud, sand - all conditions.

    For XXtreme riders like you, Shaun, Hope hydros are the way to go (with Bulb hubs to match). They're
    the best hydros in existence (so it is said), and the lightest. In order to build a disc-equipped
    bike for under $600, total, I couldn't go out and spend $400+ on my brakes, now could I?

    For any kind of serious DH or FR riding, discs are the way to go. When you land hard and throw your
    wheel out of true by an inch, the discs will keep on working and get you to the bottom of the hill
    safely. V-brakes would make you carry your bike home. I'm sure nobody has ever ripped open a hydro
    line in a crash and had to walk home, have they? :v]

    > Shaun aRe say ditch the Avids and get some proper discs - _Hope_.

    Shaun aRe say spend the Mucho Bigga' Bux. No can do.

    Barry
     
  10. B. Sanders

    B. Sanders Guest

    "Anthony Sloan" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    >
    > B. Sanders wrote:
    > >
    > >2003 Weyless Easton Ultralite (black) Avid CPS disc brakes (the best) 2001 Manitou Mars Elite
    > >(black, w/ lockout) XTR/XT/LX/Syncros/RaceFace LP drivetrain
    > >XT/Ritchey/Sun 0 Deg Lite disc wheels (built them myself) RockShox seatpost (love it) WTB SST Ti
    > > saddle
    > >
    > >Weight: ~23.1 lb Total cost: ~$600 (mostly new components)
    > >
    > Hmmm. Are you sure that isn't ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~$600.00

    ~$600 means "approximately $600 USD". Not much point adding two more digits of precision when I'm
    making an estimate, is there?

    > Where do you shop? I get stuff at cost and couldnt get that component selection for that sheckel.

    I shop at Ebay, rec.bicycles.marketplace, MTBR.com, JensonUSA.com, Nashbar.com, PricePoint.com, and
    my local bike shop. Most of the parts were purchased way below dealer cost, and way below average
    Ebay prices. Examples: 2003 Weyless frame (new) $99, Mars Elite/Super fork (mint) $90, Syncros rings
    (new)$9.99 , RockShox post (new) $44.95, Real cassette (new) $17 , Sun 0 Deg Lite rims (new) $9.99
    ea, etc. The front Avid disc brake was traded to me in lieu of repairs for a bike that had minor
    paint damage from shipment (so it was the cost of a bottle of color-matched Testors model paint).
    The RaceFace LP cranks came from a mint-condition custom Kelly cyclocross bike that I parted out (it
    was too big for me). Net cost: $0.00. I look for custom bikes for cheap and part them out, keeping
    the parts I want. (I always check to make sure I'm not buying stolen merchandise.)

    Being a bargain hunter takes a lot of time; but it can be rewarding when you score great deals. This
    is only one of over a dozen sweet bikes I've built up on-the-cheap in the past 8 years or so. The
    trick is to not get hung-up on the very latest technology. Wait a year or two when everybody starts
    dumping it cheap to buy the Next Big Thing. Bike tech doesn't change much from year to year; but the
    marketing department makes it sound like it does. Bike fashion victims make my bargain hunting very
    easy. For instance, I waited until this year to switch to 9-speed drivetrains. 8-speed worked just
    fine, thank you.

    -Barry
     
  11. Xtc

    Xtc Guest

    Thx for all the input. I will buy a Giant brand bike. I'll look at the XTC 2 and give the Ranier
    another once over. I like the idea that the Ranier will sorta be over-kill for what I intend to use
    it for. Looking at all the comments, I think it would serve me better to have a little more bike
    then I need. If I get a little more aggresive the bike will handle it. Thx again for all your
    advice. I'll post what bike I get.
     
  12. B. Sanders

    B. Sanders Guest

    "Xtc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > Thx for all the input. I will buy a Giant brand bike. I'll look at the XTC
    2
    > and give the Ranier another once over. I like the idea that the Ranier
    will
    > sorta be over-kill for what I intend to use it for. Looking at all the comments, I think it would
    > serve me better to have a little more bike then
    I
    > need. If I get a little more aggresive the bike will handle it. Thx again for all your advice.
    > I'll post what bike I get.

    Sounds like a plan.

    To make the decision easier, cruise through an auto dealership and have a look at the sticker prices
    on some SUV's. Check out the monthly auto payments that are advertised in the newspaper. Then think
    about all the places your MTB will go that SUV's only dream of. Compare value: Realize that even
    high-end MTB's are *dirt cheap* compared to other things in life: College tuition, cars/trucks,
    houses/condos, health/life/auto/home insurance, income tax, real estate taxes, etc. Amortize your
    purchase over a 5 year period to see just how cheap it really is to own a nice bike. Heck, I paid a
    $300 *parking ticket* in Chicago a few years ago. (It was a scam - don't get me started on that one.
    Chicago is very corrupt.)

    Ride safely, so you won't have to find out how much hospital bills can be. Unless you're in Canada
    or the UK, then nevermind.

    Barry from the US
     
  13. Shaun Rimmer

    Shaun Rimmer Guest

    B. Sanders <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > "Shaun Rimmer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    > news:[email protected]...
    > >
    > > B. Sanders said:
    > >
    > > >Avid CPS disc brakes (the best)
    > >
    > > Then said:
    > >
    > > > I may end up going to V-brakes, because discs aren't really any
    better,
    > > IMO,
    > > > and they're a *lot* heavier!.
    > >
    > > So, you must have lied in the first bit - if those Avids aren't really
    any
    > > better than V's, they must be shit - QED.
    >
    > Avids are the best *mechanical disc brakes*. I think we can all agree on that. There's a whack of
    > difference between "the best" and "shit". Disc brakes are heavier; but they still have some
    > benefits over V-brakes. You know it, and I know it. For the kind of terrain I ride, disc brakes
    > are overkill. I'll never need them except in sloppy, wet conditions. I built
    my
    > wheels for V's or discs because I knew I might switch back to V's later. Nice to have options,
    > isn't it?
    >
    > > My Hope Mini is stacks better than any V's I've had (and I set them up awesomely) or any V's
    > > I've used on other's bikes (including the bikes of several pro bike mechanics). I can stop with
    > > the Hopes as quickly as if safe using the end of one finger on
    > the
    > > lever should I choose too, and with 2 fingers, the effort required is comparatively (to V's)
    > > minute. That's in the wet, the dry, mud, sand -
    all
    > > conditions.
    >
    > For XXtreme riders like you, Shaun, Hope hydros are the way to go (with
    Bulb
    > hubs to match). They're the best hydros in existence (so it is said), and the lightest. In order
    > to build a disc-equipped bike for under $600,
    total,
    > I couldn't go out and spend $400+ on my brakes, now could I?
    >
    > For any kind of serious DH or FR riding, discs are the way to go. When
    you
    > land hard and throw your wheel out of true by an inch, the discs will keep on working and get you
    > to the bottom of the hill safely. V-brakes would make you carry your bike home. I'm sure nobody
    > has ever ripped open a
    hydro
    > line in a crash and had to walk home, have they? :v]
    >
    > > Shaun aRe say ditch the Avids and get some proper discs - _Hope_.
    >
    > Shaun aRe say spend the Mucho Bigga' Bux. No can do.
    >
    > Barry
     
  14. Shaun Rimmer

    Shaun Rimmer Guest

    B. Sanders :

    > "Shaun Rimmer":
    > >
    > > B. Sanders said:
    > >
    > > >Avid CPS disc brakes (the best)
    > >
    > > Then said:
    > >
    > > > I may end up going to V-brakes, because discs aren't really any
    better,
    > > IMO,
    > > > and they're a *lot* heavier!.
    > >
    > > So, you must have lied in the first bit - if those Avids aren't really
    any
    > > better than V's, they must be shit - QED.
    >
    > Avids are the best *mechanical disc brakes*. I think we can all agree on that. There's a whack of
    > difference between "the best" and "shit". Disc brakes are heavier; but they still have some
    > benefits over V-brakes. You know it, and I know it. For the kind of terrain I ride, disc brakes
    > are overkill. I'll never need them except in sloppy, wet conditions. I built
    my
    > wheels for V's or discs because I knew I might switch back to V's later. Nice to have options,
    > isn't it?

    Heheheheheh..........

    > > My Hope Mini is stacks better than any V's I've had (and I set them up awesomely) or any V's
    > > I've used on other's bikes (including the bikes of several pro bike mechanics). I can stop with
    > > the Hopes as quickly as if safe using the end of one finger on
    > the
    > > lever should I choose too, and with 2 fingers, the effort required is comparatively (to V's)
    > > minute. That's in the wet, the dry, mud, sand -
    all
    > > conditions.
    >
    > For XXtreme riders like you,

    WTF!!!!!! Where did that come from?!?!? I'm about as extreme as a Sunday afternoon coffee and
    cookies session on the porch FFS - or where you being sarcastic? Heheheheheh......... ',;~}~

    > Shaun, Hope hydros are the way to go (with Bulb hubs to match). They're the best hydros in
    > existence (so it is said), and the lightest. In order to build a disc-equipped bike for
    > under $600,
    total,
    > I couldn't go out and spend $400+ on my brakes, now could I?
    >
    > For any kind of serious DH or FR riding, discs are the way to go. When
    you
    > land hard and throw your wheel out of true by an inch, the discs will keep on working and get you
    > to the bottom of the hill safely. V-brakes would make you carry your bike home. I'm sure nobody
    > has ever ripped open a
    hydro
    > line in a crash and had to walk home, have they? :v]

    Dunno, but it would be a bit silly to walk just because you had no brake, heheheheh.......

    > > Shaun aRe say ditch the Avids and get some proper discs - _Hope_.
    >
    > Shaun aRe say spend the Mucho Bigga' Bux. No can do.

    Nah Barry - sorry dude, I was just bored and mercilessly trolling because I spotted your failure to
    qualify "(the best)", followed by your "aren't really any better" comment. Just fancied a game of
    semantics ',;~}~

    Shaun aRe - not like me to be naughty, is it? Heheheheh..........
     
  15. Xtc

    Xtc Guest

    Got the Giant Rainer. I really enjoy this bike. Thx for all the input.
     
  16. "Xtc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
    > Does anyone know if this is a good hardtail for light trail riding? Any other bikes I should
    > consider in this price / quality range. Pros / Cons? Thx for any advice. Xtc

    My 2002 Rainier is good for the local stuff but would be trashed if I still lived in Colorado. I
    break a spoke in the back wheel every other ride and the clear coat? on the paint is chipping off
    more and more every day. I put another bike down on trade and paid around $400+ last year and I
    figure it's the best cheap bike I've ever had.
     
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