If it's like the mold release compound on car tires, very hot soapy water will get rid of it easily. A rough cloth or brush will get the job done. No need to risk your ass on slimed tires.
GP 4000 S(hit)...
- Thread starter Volnix
- Start date
Yeah, the tyre has done a few miles; in fact, it's a bit 'square-worn', which I guess could've had something to do with it slipping. Also, perhaps foolishly, I snuck a few extra psi in there, coz I thought I was gunna do a lot of off-the-saddle mashing.
Having said all that, I raced the same course last night (with a GP4000S on the rear), and I had flashbacks that it's possible that I could've maybe possibly could've clipped my pedal..maybe possibly. Hmmm.
Either way, I won't be trusting the Pro Race 4s in corners again. They're probably fine (I've had no problems with the Pro 3s), but it would mess with my head.
Never tried the Michelin ones but GP4000s's slip like crazy on a very flat wet surface (like marble).
Also they don't do well on pavement with a thin layer of mud on them.
Maybe you just hit a spot of very flat road surface and there was some water, or oil or mud or whatever there...
They are Ok for coarse-ish clean tarmac even in the rain.
Still didn't sent them back to "Ursula" and still have one in the front... Which makess me kinda nervous since I'm gonna go to an "Alleycat"-like thing tonight and last time the speed was high and there roads where sh^t so...
Are the gatorskins much slower?
I don't really think of the 4 season ones as they are f@ckin expensive and the roads here are not suitable for nice stuff...
If I was to toss 100 euro in an hour I would go to a strip club, get a few beers and have a stripper check the traction of her boobies on my face instead of shredding 100 euro worth of tires on a single ride...
Volnix,
I found that the Gatorskins only ever flatted from sidewall damage but I didn't get decent mileage from them as the rubber was hard and cracked prematurely. The sidewalls on the GP4000s seem to be as good as those on the Gatorskins. The sidewall is their weakness but it is still good enough that I ride roads like Cuberacer posted all of the time.
I found that the Gatorskins only ever flatted from sidewall damage but I didn't get decent mileage from them as the rubber was hard and cracked prematurely. The sidewalls on the GP4000s seem to be as good as those on the Gatorskins. The sidewall is their weakness but it is still good enough that I ride roads like Cuberacer posted all of the time.
Quote by Aussie:
"Having said all that, I raced the same course last night (with a GP4000S on the rear), and I had flashbacks that it's possible that I could've maybe possibly could've clipped my pedal..maybe possibly. Hmmm."
Yeah, even a light pedal strike when you're near the limit will take a guy down. My usual is to go in too hot, like Quintana. Try a rear-steer and hope. I remember a crit that I hopped about two lines out after banging a pedal...and the screaming that followed.
"Having said all that, I raced the same course last night (with a GP4000S on the rear), and I had flashbacks that it's possible that I could've maybe possibly could've clipped my pedal..maybe possibly. Hmmm."
Yeah, even a light pedal strike when you're near the limit will take a guy down. My usual is to go in too hot, like Quintana. Try a rear-steer and hope. I remember a crit that I hopped about two lines out after banging a pedal...and the screaming that followed.
We'll I ended up getting 25 months use out of my rear tyre. It still had plenty of tread which had become pretty hard but the failure mode was a cut in the side wall obtained whilst riding a mountain that was all fire trail. Fortunately it didn't cause a flat.
If the rubber's hard, you don't wanna ride it - kinda like dried out condoms... Same outcome really, you'll probably end up f**ked when paying in the more dangerous curves...
Yeah I've played that game before, but only when the damage is limited (not all the threads have been cut) and I don't have a spare tire readily available. When using a booted tire I will also:Originally Posted by Volnix
If the cut is small maybe you can boot it. I used it for about another 1000km now with a tire boot, no problems.
1. Boot with a sandwich of duct (duck?) tape and nylon strapping tape, Strapping tape is incredibly strong and the duct tape holds it in place better. Yes I carry a small amount of both whenever I ride - cuts happen.
2. Move the cut tire to the back wheel where it'll wear faster and won't be so exciting if there's a flat. Nothing more exciting than blowing a front tire.
3. Mount the tire such that the cut (boot) is at the valve stem so I can check for bulging prior to riding.
My experience with tire cord failure has been that they give some advance warning. They start to go and create a small bulge long before they fail all together. Of course YMMV.
My experience with race tires is that the sidewall are weak. It's part of that trade-off between supple fast race tires (Vittoria, Conti, Hutchinson, others) and the heavy duty touring/commuting monsters which do a great job even with shards of glass. Higher thread count gives that light supple ride, but is more susceptible to damage from glass and hard rock hits.
This is the same dilemma for gravel bikes - the faster CX tires have light weight sidewalls which are great in mud, dirt and grass but wear and are more easily damaged in harsh gravel conditions.
If you don't want sidewall cuts, get some 600 gm Schwalbe Marathon Mondials
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