Granny on my V2

[Rob Rudeski]

Hi All,

I am one of those rare folks who can't climb hills well on my 2000 V2 XL. I still have the stock
chainrings (52/42/30), but I did switch to Deore LX Rapid Fire shifters.

I want to change out the smallest chainring to something smaller. Hostel Shoppe has both 24T and
26T chainrings. So I am in need of advice, and would love to hear about your experiences doing the
same thing.

Another question: does the 2000 V2 XL have splined or square bottom bracket? The reason I need to
know that is so I can get the correct crank puller. I have the stock Shimano 105 cranks.

Any and all help and advice will be greatly appreciated.

--
Rob Rudeski Trenton, GA RANS V2

 

[Greg Dunn]

I have a V-Rex which I believe came with the same chainrings. I switched out the small ring for a
24T. It's worth its weight in gold when you encounter a big hill (or feel pooped or lazy on a
small one).

Shifting between the mid- and low gear is clunkier with the granny; the chain drops like a double
chin in a late stage of advancement; and there is the occasional annoying chain voyage right off the
rings altogether. However, this (a) doesn't come up very often, and (b) can be corrected with a
little plastic chain stop that costs a few bucks. To date I haven't bothered. Even with the minor
annoyances, it's a good trade.

Personally I'd like to have a four-sprocket front chain ring. Anybody ever seen anything like that?
--
Greg Dunn

"Rob Rudeski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:%[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I am one of those rare folks who can't climb hills well on my 2000 V2 XL.
I
> still have the stock chainrings (52/42/30), but I did switch to Deore LX Rapid Fire shifters.
>
> I want to change out the smallest chainring to something smaller. Hostel Shoppe has both 24T and
> 26T chainrings. So I am in need of advice, and
would
> love to hear about your experiences doing the same thing.
>
> Another question: does the 2000 V2 XL have splined or square bottom
bracket?
> The reason I need to know that is so I can get the correct crank puller. I have the stock Shimano
> 105 cranks.
>
> Any and all help and advice will be greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> Rob Rudeski Trenton, GA RANS V2

 

[Rob Rudeski]

Can you tell me more about the chain stop? Sources?
--
Rob Rudeski Trenton, GA RANS V2

"Greg Dunn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a V-Rex which I believe came with the same chainrings. I switched
out
> the small ring for a 24T. It's worth its weight in gold when you encounter
a
> big hill (or feel pooped or lazy on a small one).
>
> Shifting between the mid- and low gear is clunkier with the granny; the chain drops like a double
> chin in a late stage of advancement; and there
is
> the occasional annoying chain voyage right off the rings altogether. However, this (a) doesn't
> come up very often, and (b) can be corrected
with
> a little plastic chain stop that costs a few bucks. To date I haven't bothered. Even with the
> minor annoyances, it's a good trade.
>
> Personally I'd like to have a four-sprocket front chain ring. Anybody
ever
> seen anything like that?
> --
> Greg Dunn
>
>
> "Rob Rudeski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:%[email protected]...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am one of those rare folks who can't climb hills well on my 2000 V2
XL.
> I
> > still have the stock chainrings (52/42/30), but I did switch to Deore LX Rapid Fire shifters.
> >
> > I want to change out the smallest chainring to something smaller. Hostel Shoppe has both 24T and
> > 26T chainrings. So I am in need of advice, and
> would
> > love to hear about your experiences doing the same thing.
> >
> > Another question: does the 2000 V2 XL have splined or square bottom
> bracket?
> > The reason I need to know that is so I can get the correct crank puller.
I
> > have the stock Shimano 105 cranks.
> >
> > Any and all help and advice will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > --
> > Rob Rudeski Trenton, GA RANS V2
> >
> >
>

 

[Steve Christens]

In article <[email protected]>, "Rob says...
>
>Can you tell me more about the chain stop? Sources?

You can get it from the Hostel Shoppe:

http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=983898175

About $10.

Steve Christensen

 

[Cletus D . Lee]

In article <%[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> Hi All,
>
> I am one of those rare folks who can't climb hills well on my 2000 V2 XL. I still have the stock
> chainrings (52/42/30), but I did switch to Deore LX Rapid Fire shifters.
>
> I want to change out the smallest chainring to something smaller. Hostel Shoppe has both 24T and
> 26T chainrings. So I am in need of advice, and would love to hear about your experiences doing the
> same thing.
>
> Another question: does the 2000 V2 XL have splined or square bottom bracket? The reason I need to
> know that is so I can get the correct crank puller. I have the stock Shimano 105 cranks.

I am most certain that this works with Shimano 105

http://www.parktool.com/tools/CCP_4.shtml

Your front derailleur is rated for 22T range. It can manage 26T with minimal difficulty. I would not
replace the 30 with anything smaller than the 26T if you are going to keep the 52T. If your SRAM 7.0
will reach a 34T then swapping the 11-32 cassette with an 11-34 would also be a possibility.

Putting some combinations into a gear range plotter should save you some $ before you buy what you
don't need. (many on the web. My previous links are dead)

--
Cletus D. Lee Bacchetta Giro Lightning Voyager http://www.clee.org
- Bellaire, TX USA -

 

[Ken Kramer]

I have a V2 and I changed to 24-39-52 rings in front and a 11-34 in the rear. It shifts fine
although there are some combinations that I avoid and have never tried (such as 52-34) but those
aren't needed. Shifting from the 24 to the 39 chainrings is a little tricky mainly because I can't
find a 39 ring that has the "shifting steps" on it as the 42 that I replaced does. But I will put up
with that because I like the new combinations better.

I personally don't think that stock bents are geared low enough escecially for hilly terain in MHO.
You can always shift up! I have been on tours where I could have sold "my gears" for several times
what I paid for them. I also have switched to shorter cranks and therefore prefer to spin at a
higher cadence. Lower gears are essential.

 

[Review Boy]

Hi Greg -

I saw a quadruple crank in action on a mountain bike about 10 years ago. It seemed like a great idea
for a person who wants to tackle lots of steep hills and isn't in a hurry.

I found one reference to such a product on the Web at www.bikespecialties.com/parts.html. Search
that page for 'quadruple'.

Good luck.

"Greg Dunn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Personally I'd like to have a four-sprocket front chain ring. Anybody
ever
> seen anything like that?
>
> Greg Dunn

 

[Dave Is Here]

Ken If I were you I would make sure that you have enough chain so you can use the 52/34 gear.

You can file a few teeth down to about half their height on the 39 to make it shift better. dave

"Ken Kramer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a V2 and I changed to 24-39-52 rings in front and a 11-34 in the rear. It shifts fine
> although there are some combinations that I avoid and have never tried (such as 52-34) but those
> aren't needed. Shifting from the 24 to the 39 chainrings is a little tricky mainly because I can't
> find a 39 ring that has the "shifting steps" on it as the 42 that I replaced does. But I will put
> up with that because I like the new combinations better.

snip

 

[Mark Stonich]

"Review Boy" <review [email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi Greg -
>
> I saw a quadruple crank in action on a mountain bike about 10 years ago. It seemed like a great
> idea for a person who wants to tackle lots of steep hills and isn't in a hurry.

We've had a quad on our recumbent tandem for 10-12 years. Started out with 20-32-44-56, and now in
our old age have 20-28-36-46 with 153mm cranks. I use old Shimano XT front derailleurs, with nice
long parallelogram arms. With the ultra wide setup I had to extend the cage
http://bikesmithdesign.com/temp/Front_Derr_Ext.JPG and have an extra wrap-up device
http://bikesmithdesign.com/temp/Wrapup.jpg

To attach the extra ring, I replaced the spacers under the normal 1st cog (now 2nd) with an aluminum
plate with holes for 74 and 58mm bolt circles.

 

[Jerry Rhodes]

"Greg Dunn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...

>I'd like to have a four-sprocket front chain ring<

A few years ago there was an adapter that was attached to the same bolt circle that the "granny" was
bolted to. It was machined to receive a rear derailleur cog and held on with a jam nut. I have one
but I don't remember who was making it. It was one of those things that "seemed SO right" but turned
out to be the answer to a non-problem.

When the going got so tough that 19" wouldn't cut it, traction became the greatest issue. At that
point I would usually hop the whole bike up the obstacle or jump off and carry it. The "two feet"
gear was far more efficient and much faster.

Jerry

 

[Jeff Wills]

"Greg Dunn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> Personally I'd like to have a four-sprocket front chain ring. Anybody ever seen anything
> like that?

If you search for "quad chainrings" you'll probably find a variety of references to them. They're
not too hard to build, but you have to be careful about bottom bracket clearance, derailleur throw,
and cable travel.

If you're looking for even lower gears, take a look at Tom Mayer's Mountain Tamer Triple or Quad
adapters: http://www.abundantadventures.com/jemez/quads.html

Jeff

 

[Warren Berger]

Mark,

> now in our old age have 20-28-36-46 with 153mm cranks.

Glad to see I am not the only one getting old.

> With the ultra wide setup I had to extend the cage

We run 22/40/50 on our Screamer with a stock der.

If you could rotate the der. back some (perhaps one of those ders. which mount on a plate on the BB)
you may not need to extend the cage.

> To attach the extra ring, I replaced the spacers under the normal 1st cog (now 2nd) with an
> aluminum plate with holes for 74 and 58mm bolt circles.

These were actually made for awhile by two different companies. We have one on our tandem to get
that 22T granny.

Warren

 

[Don]

Rob, Try the "Third Eye Chain Watcher" made by Bicycle Safety, Inc. They work great and weigh
next to nothing. They are available from many LBSs and online stores like Nashbar. I got mine for
$7.50 at Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI). They are a small item so they frequently get hidden
in the catalogs.

My derailleurs are adjusted so I do not have a problem with chain dropping when I am shifting.
However, when I stop with the chain on the small ring, if I move the bike to park it or load it, the
chain drops off due to too much slack. Anyway, if you are chugging up a hill and need to grab the
small ring fast you don't want to have to worry about dropping your chain and pulling an Artie
Johnson. So I highly recommend the Third Eye.

"Rob Rudeski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Can you tell me more about the chain stop? Sources?
> --
> Rob Rudeski Trenton, GA RANS V2

 

[Review Boy]

If you are seriously considering buying this sort of device, I strongly suggest that you first
search the Web for "third eye chain watcher review", read the reviews, then do the same for "N-Gear
Jump Stop review".

"Don" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Rob, Try the "Third Eye Chain Watcher" made by Bicycle Safety, Inc.

 

[Rocketman58]

...If I were you I would make sure that you have enough chain so you can use the 52/34 gear...

Very good Idea, otherwise no matter how careful you are, you will end up ripping your rear deraileur
apart - usually in an emergency maneuver. (This has been my experience.) But, with that spread of
gearing, the rear deraileur may not be able to suck up enough chain slack while in the 24 tooth
gear. A better solution is a 110mm bolt patter crank with 48,36,24 rings matted to an 11x32 rear
cassette. This gives you a very low gear, a plenty usable high gear, and is within the realistic
capacity of the front and rear deraileur.

...You can file a few teeth down to about half their height on the 39 to make it shift better...

Back in the old days we didn't need no fancy shifting ramps... (opps, slipped into old-timer mode).
But seriously, while some of the older Shimano SG rings did have trimmed down teeth, I found them no
better shifting than any other good quality ring. Also, unless you place them in the correct
location, you may just ruin your chainring. I belive the Dura Ace triple has a 39 middle ring - I am
pretty sure it may be rampped and pinned. It's worth a look. (Pretty expensive as well I bet)

Rocketman58

 

[Warren Berger]

Don,

> Anyway, if you are chugging up a hill and need to grab the small ring fast you don't want to
> have to worry about dropping your chain and pulling an Artie Johnson. So I highly recommend the
> Third Eye.

I use them on all my recumbents. Some years back, I was doing a mountainous MS 150 on a 26/26 V-Rex.
I was kicking butt on the upright riders, and feeling pretty smug. On one long climb, I had just
flown past a whole pack of them, and was dropping down through the gears, as the speed blend off. I
dropped onto the granny and...plop. The chain was sitting on the BB. I had to get off and put it
back on, and adjust my der. stop screw 1/8 turn. All while the upright riders went by making the
usual comments about recumbents. I got a Third Eye at the first opportunity.

Around the same time period, I'm on a big group ride with my daughter on the back of the 26/26
Screamer. We drop into the granny, and start spinning like usual. An eternity passes before my
toasted brain figures out that we are making no headway. Can you say, "Artie Johnson"? See the last
four sentences of the above paragraph!

Der's get out of adjustment, be prepared.

Warren

 

[Perry Butler]

On my V-Rex I first replaced the 30 tooth with a 24 tooth. Did not like the drop from the 42 tooth
to the new 24 tooth. I then bought ramped and pinned 38 and 48 tooth TA rings from Harris Cyclery
(http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html). The bike shifted great and I felt I had better
gears for the way I biked.

I am currently waiting for a 165mm 22-34-48 TA crank for my Fold Rush.

Enjoy,

Perry B

"Ken Kramer" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I have a V2 and I changed to 24-39-52 rings in front and a 11-34 in the rear. It shifts fine
> although there are some combinations that I avoid and have never tried (such as 52-34) but those
> aren't needed. Shifting from
the
> 24 to the 39 chainrings is a little tricky mainly because I can't find a
39
> ring that has the "shifting steps" on it as the 42 that I replaced does.
But
> I will put up with that because I like the new combinations better.
>
> I personally don't think that stock bents are geared low enough escecially for hilly terain in
> MHO. You can always shift up! I have been on tours
where
> I could have sold "my gears" for several times what I paid for them. I
also
> have switched to shorter cranks and therefore prefer to spin at a higher cadence. Lower gears are
> essential.

 

[Edward Dolan]

"Rob Rudeski" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<%[email protected]>...
> Hi All,
>
> I am one of those rare folks who can't climb hills well on my 2000 V2 XL. I still have the stock
> chainrings (52/42/30), but I did switch to Deore LX Rapid Fire shifters.
>
> I want to change out the smallest chainring to something smaller. Hostel Shoppe has both 24T and
> 26T chainrings. So I am in need of advice, and would love to hear about your experiences doing the
> same thing.

Yup! Recumbents don't climb hills worth a darn. There is nothing rare about you at all. Welcome to
the club! It is a never ending battle to get the gearing low enough. I have finally solved the
problem at least to my own satisfaction. When I run out of low gears I get off the bike and walk it.
This not only provides a nice break from the sitting posture but also makes any other cyclists going
by feel smugly superior. It is my good deed for the day.

Ed Dolan - Minnesota

 

[Just Zis Guy]

On 5 Jul 2003 11:05:10 -0700, [email protected] (Edward Dolan) wrote:

>Recumbents don't climb hills worth a darn.

That depends on the "engine" On my recent century I reached the top before the wedgies every
single time.

Guy
===
** WARNING ** This posting may contain traces of irony. http://www.chapmancentral.com Advance
notice: ADSL service in process of transfer to a new ISP. Obviously there will be a week of downtime
between the engineer removing the BT service and the same engineer connecting the same equipment on
the same line in the same exchange and billing it to the new ISP.

 

[Rob Rudeski]

Hi All,

Thanks for all the advice. Here's what I ended up doing.

I switched out the 30T for a 26T, and replaced the 11/32 cassette with an
11/34 cassette.

I didn't expect miracles, and I didn't get any, but I did get more low end for hill climbing. I
tested it out and hills I couldn't do before, I am able to do (barely) now. My next project, and one
I suspect will be ongoing for some time, is engine improvements. I've set up a loose framework for a
training regime.

* Weekends will see me at the rail trails here doing the slight hills at a high cadence (100-110
rpm) to build my endurance.
* 1 or 2 weekday rides on a route that has moderate hills and fantastic scenery.
* 1 or 2 weekday rides on a route that has some more severe hills, and more great scenery.
* 1 or 2 days of rest with no riding.

I find good scenery makes the work less noticeable. I expect to keep up this routing throughout the
rest of this year. Come next spring, I should be able to keep up with my club rides without any
extraordinary effort.

Thanks all again for the advice.
--
Rob Rudeski Trenton, GA RANS V2

"Cletus D. Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <%[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am one of those rare folks who can't climb hills well on my 2000 V2
XL. I
> > still have the stock chainrings (52/42/30), but I did switch to Deore LX Rapid Fire shifters.
> >
> > I want to change out the smallest chainring to something smaller. Hostel Shoppe has both 24T and
> > 26T chainrings. So I am in need of advice, and
would
> > love to hear about your experiences doing the same thing.
> >
> > Another question: does the 2000 V2 XL have splined or square bottom
bracket?
> > The reason I need to know that is so I can get the correct crank puller.
I
> > have the stock Shimano 105 cranks.
>
> I am most certain that this works with Shimano 105
>
> http://www.parktool.com/tools/CCP_4.shtml
>
> Your front derailleur is rated for 22T range. It can manage 26T with minimal difficulty. I would
> not replace the 30 with anything smaller than the 26T if you are going to keep the 52T. If your
> SRAM 7.0 will reach a 34T then swapping the 11-32 cassette with an 11-34 would also be a
> possibility.
>
> Putting some combinations into a gear range plotter should save you some $ before you buy what you
> don't need. (many on the web. My previous links are dead)
>
> --
> Cletus D. Lee Bacchetta Giro Lightning Voyager http://www.clee.org
> - Bellaire, TX USA -