Gravel Bike

[Viking55803]

I'm going to get back to my original post for a moment. If I could have what I want in a gravel bike, it would be 21 pounds or less, have disc brakes (I've gotten to love the consistency of braking), clearance for up to a 38 mm tire (I'm getting old - 66 - and MAY want bigger, softer tires), drop bars of course, a compact (50/34) chain ring crank, and a decent fit. I have a long inseam and shorter torso. I haven't really found a cockpit more comfortable than the Raleigh Professional I rode in 1970, but I don't remember the frame dimensions

I think my 2008 Specialized Rockhopper 29er has been the most comfortable geometrically and great for rides up to 30 miles. But it is heavy, and it's very hilly around Duluth, even with ergo bar ends my hands always get numb. I like to be over the bars with my elbows bent and my hands resting comfortably on the tops, and with a nice angle to the hoods - but all that is easily adjustable if the other dimensions are close.

Finally, there is the age factor. After my bypass surgery 2 years ago I got back on a road bike to aid in my recovery. The more I rode, the more stretched out I wanted to be on the bike. I had to increase the stem length and lower the bars by the end of the first season of riding. This year I experimented with aero bars and actually enjoyed them for riding into strong headwinds. Other than that I would do without them. In any case, I may need to alter my position gradually like I change my eyeglass prescription. My goal is a long, slow glide into senescence.

So thanks for reading this, and if it stimulates some thoughts please share them.

Gary
Duluth, MN

 

[retrogrinch]

A couple thots regarding fit...

The steel race bikes from "back in the day" had shorter top tubes - or at least that's how the larger (59cm and up) frames sizes were built. However if one had the traditional race 3" to 4" handlebar drop, that added a lot to the length of the effective top tube. Conversely, as one moves to a neutral (no drop) and higher position, the effective top tube is going to get A LOT shorter. Also be cautioned that raising the bars will shift weight from the hands and feet to the butt.

As mentioned by others - a lot of the CX bikes will come standard with narrow CX specific gearing (36/46 seems to be common) and will have a higher position (less bottom bracket drop).

The Jamis Renegade looks like a great bike that meets your needs, should be a great ride, but is just over your budget. The Salsa Vaya3, has a triple for even lower gearing and is well within your budget - but it's going to be a more stout and heavier bike with a slightly longer wheelbase (1 cm) and lots of eyelets to attach fenders or a rear rack should you decide. The Vaya weighs in about 5.5 pounds (depending on size etc.) and the uncut fork will be another 2.25 pounds. The Soma Double Cross has a steel frame that's about a pound lighter than the Vaya. Going to titanium will shave about another pound (about 3 pound frame)... but a new ti frame is going to bust your budget. I couldn't find tire fit info for the Renegade so you'll have to check with the dealer on where or not it'll allow 38c's. But I can tell you first hand that the Clement USH 35C is a great riding tire on the Colorado gravel roads and tame singletrack. The USH, when mounted on a 19mm wide CXP road rim measures 33mm. Most CX and gravel tires measure smaller than they're rated. My measurement are in line with what I've seen online in reviews.

Converting a mountain bike to drop bars can be interesting. Watch out for looooong top tubes. For a mountain bike to fit properly with flat bars, the top tube will be 3" or so longer than a comparable road bike. So if you wanted to do a drop bar conversion to a mountain bike, look for a size or so smaller than would fit with a flat bar. There are lots of other gotcha's in converting mountain bikes to drop bars.

Happy shopping,
Greg

 

[alfeng]

I'm going to get back to my original post for a moment. If I could have what I want in a gravel bike, it would be 21 pounds or less, have disc brakes (I've gotten to love the consistency of braking), clearance for up to a 38 mm tire (I'm getting old - 66 - and MAY want bigger, softer tires), drop bars of course, a compact (50/34) chain ring crank, and a decent fit. I have a long inseam and shorter torso. I haven't really found a cockpit more comfortable than the Raleigh Professional I rode in 1970, but I don't remember the frame dimensions I think my 2008 Specialized Rockhopper 29er has been the most comfortable geometrically and great for rides up to 30 miles. But it is heavy, and it's very hilly around Duluth, even with ergo bar ends my hands always get numb. I like to be over the bars with my elbows bent and my hands resting comfortably on the tops, and with a nice angle to the hoods - but all that is easily adjustable if the other dimensions are close.

For the record ...

• How tall are you? What size Rockhopper 29er are you riding? If you can, post a picture of the bike as it is currently configured.

FWIW. If I were to mount a disc brake Fork on my MEDIUM 26er Moongoose frame then I reckon it would weigh closer to 24+ lbs by the time I added a rigid Fork with disc brake caliper mounts + disc caliper + a disc hub + rotor AND 38mm-42mm tires & tubes.

• Yes, a 26er frame will easily handle a 42mm tire.

And, yeah ...

• That's right ...

I'm reckoning a [COLOR=FF0000]generous[/COLOR] 5 lbs for the fork + disc hub + rotor + Fork ([color=808080]that would be a rigid steel disc Fork ... it's my point of reference because it's what I have vs. a CF fork with disc brake caliper mounts [/color]) + porkier tires & tubes. I'm not saying that you couldn't cobble together your idealized bike and have it weigh in at about 21 lbs., but it would probably be a lot more expensive than you would want it to be..

• Having said THAT, maybe you should further consider a DIY bike ... At least, for this season ... or, for a month-or-two Then, you will have a better idea of exactly what you want out of your super-duper bike. As retrogrinch noted, you may want a shorter stem than you are currently using if you switch from a FLAT bar to a DROP bar..

BTW. I've only been in Duluth, once ...

• I have long since forgotten the name of the brand of the "local" coffee which was considered to be better ([COLOR=0000ff]"gourmet"[/COLOR]) than most national brands at the time ([COLOR=808080]mid-70s[/COLOR]). My recollection is that if you weren't on that small, flat piece of land near Lake Superior, it was not just hilly, it was generally steep to walk around unless you were in the business district ([COLOR=808080]which, of course, isn't situated on level ground[/COLOR]) ... So, I would probably plan on a 12-34 or a 11-34 or some equally wussy Cassette if I opted for a Compact crankset instead of a Triple.

BTW. For off-the-peg bikes, it was common for most frames to have 57mm Top Tubes with 72º head & seat tube angles way-back-when. The size was adjusted by a longer-or-shorter stem for the larger or smaller frames.

 

[retrogrinch]

Just an FYI... if price is a major consideration, now is probably as good a time as ever for shopping for a CX/Gravel bike. A few more options:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/cyclocross-bikes?sort=%2Bprice

From what I've been told from owners, Ridley's are sized large so you would want to check the reach and stack measurements against a road bike that has the correct fit. You'll also probably want to swap out the chainrings - all the Ridleys have typical CX 46/36 with an 11-28 cassette. The models equipped with Shimano appear to have the standard rear derailleur - to use the 11-32 cassette you'd need the "medium cage" rear derailleur. I believe the lower end SRAM rear derailleurs all can handle a 11-32 cassette, but don't take my word for it.

One other nit (detail?) to consider - the new press fit bottom brackets (PF30, many other variants) have been problematic to say the least. The lower end production bicycles still have the old school standard threaded bottom brackets. I have threaded bottom brackets with thousands of miles and are still running creak-free. I lost track of how many times my PF30 bottom bracket has been re-installed after developing a creak. My experience with PF bottom brackets is not that different from many others. Ahhhh the joys of new technology!

Regards,
Greg