Hand made wheels for new bike
- Thread starter Dr Lodge
- Start date
That shifter is pretty low on the bars, no wonder when putting the bottom parellel to the ground the shifter felt way forward. On classic bend, a helpful guide is to use a straight edge to position the lever on the bar.Originally Posted by Dr Lodge .
Before and after pics
That's a good photo, may be I should have tried that approach, instead I was focused on getting the top of the bars horizontal which requires the bars to be tilted backwards quite a way. Your bars slope down quite sharply, but there is not much distance to the hoods which compensates somewhat...therefore you have a nice little area to rest your palms.Originally Posted by danfoz .
That shifter is pretty low on the bars, no wonder when putting the bottom parellel to the ground the shifter felt way forward. On classic bend, a helpful guide is to use a straight edge to position the lever on the bar.
Hopefully I will get to try my new bars tonight...the bars are a cheaper version of whats going on my new bike (the WCS Logic) hence why I fitted the Logic IIs.
Quote: Originally Posted by Dr Lodge .
That's a good photo, may be I should have tried that approach, instead I was focused on getting the top of the bars horizontal which requires the bars to be tilted backwards quite a way. Your bars slope down quite sharply, but there is not much distance to the hoods which compensates somewhat...therefore you have a nice little area to rest your palms.
Hopefully I will get to try my new bars tonight...the bars are a cheaper version of whats going on my new bike (the WCS Logic) hence why I fitted the Logic IIs.
Perhaps I was clumsy in my phrasing:
If you rarely-or-never use the drops, then how the loer portion of the handlebar is less relevant ...
I set up my handlebars so that my hands are comfortable (for me) when they are on the lower portion of Drop handlebars ...
So, the difficulty with the Cinelli 65 handlebars is that I had to set the lower portion of the handlebar at the limit of what 'I' generally find to be comfortable which forced the brake levers into the outward canted posture ...
For your reference, here is my Olmo in its earlier iteration with the fore mentioned DEDA MAGIC handlebars (whose drops don't work particularly well for me):
Here is an how I ended up settting up one set of ITM handlebars (whose bend is similar to the Ritchey handlebars) ... a little unconventional, but it works for me ...
The above bike has a ~53cm top tube (I forget the precise length, but I ended up using a 130mm stem) + 130mm stem ..
.
Here is another frame with a similar length top tube (~53cm .. I forget the precise lengths ... ) BUT a greater elevation difference between the top of the saddle & the handlebars resulting in a shorter stem ...
And, since I have come to prefer a closer-to-horizontal-than-not lower portion of the handlebar, here is a bike set up with a Cinelli 66 handlebar:
To state the obvious, I set the saddle height + fore-aft according to the crankarm length (most are 175mm) ... then, I choose the stem length according to the brake lever position on the particular handlebars ...
Frame size (for me) is as much for a matter of aesthetics as not, BTW, since the "fit" can generally be adjusted.
That's a good photo, may be I should have tried that approach, instead I was focused on getting the top of the bars horizontal which requires the bars to be tilted backwards quite a way. Your bars slope down quite sharply, but there is not much distance to the hoods which compensates somewhat...therefore you have a nice little area to rest your palms.
Hopefully I will get to try my new bars tonight...the bars are a cheaper version of whats going on my new bike (the WCS Logic) hence why I fitted the Logic IIs.
Perhaps I was clumsy in my phrasing:
- 'I' would lose use of the drops because of the too-far-from-horizontal angle that is apparently required to make the tops of most handlebars horizontal ...
If you rarely-or-never use the drops, then how the loer portion of the handlebar is less relevant ...
I set up my handlebars so that my hands are comfortable (for me) when they are on the lower portion of Drop handlebars ...
So, the difficulty with the Cinelli 65 handlebars is that I had to set the lower portion of the handlebar at the limit of what 'I' generally find to be comfortable which forced the brake levers into the outward canted posture ...
For your reference, here is my Olmo in its earlier iteration with the fore mentioned DEDA MAGIC handlebars (whose drops don't work particularly well for me):
Here is an how I ended up settting up one set of ITM handlebars (whose bend is similar to the Ritchey handlebars) ... a little unconventional, but it works for me ...
The above bike has a ~53cm top tube (I forget the precise length, but I ended up using a 130mm stem) + 130mm stem ..
.
Here is another frame with a similar length top tube (~53cm .. I forget the precise lengths ... ) BUT a greater elevation difference between the top of the saddle & the handlebars resulting in a shorter stem ...
And, since I have come to prefer a closer-to-horizontal-than-not lower portion of the handlebar, here is a bike set up with a Cinelli 66 handlebar:
To state the obvious, I set the saddle height + fore-aft according to the crankarm length (most are 175mm) ... then, I choose the stem length according to the brake lever position on the particular handlebars ...
Frame size (for me) is as much for a matter of aesthetics as not, BTW, since the "fit" can generally be adjusted.
That's more the setup I'm aiming for, I prefer the drops of the bars to be angled and the tops of the bars to be flat. I guess we're all different, each to their own.Originally Posted by alfeng .
For your reference, here is my Olmo in its earlier iteration with the fore mentioned DEDA MAGIC handlebars ([COLOR= #808080]whose drops don't work particularly well for me[/COLOR]):
Since my new bike has a 1.1cm longer tube tube than my Condor, I figure I actually do need a 130mm stem on my Condor to get the same overall reach, but 1cm isn't going to make that much difference.
I notice on the single speed bike the saddle is quite far forwards, whch puts more weight on your hands, right? I'm trying to move back if anything to get a more "balanced position" with less weight on my hands.
Quote:Originally Posted by Dr Lodge .That's more the setup I'm aiming for, I prefer the drops of the bars to be angled and the tops of the bars to be flat. I guess we're all different, each to their own.
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Since my new bike has a 1.1cm longer tube tube than my Condor, I figure I actually do need a 130mm stem on my Condor to get the same overall reach, but 1cm isn't going to make that much difference.
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I notice on the single speed bike the saddle is quite far forwards, whch puts more weight on your hands, right? I'm trying to move back if anything to get a more "balanced position" with less weight on my hands.
Handlebar shape + how they are angled can definitely be a matter of personal preference ...
BTW. Presuming you are referring to the 'red' RALEIGH, you should note that the seat tube has a rather slack angle (~72º) ...
Consequently, a zero-setback seatpost actually provides the same relative positon of the-saddle-to-the-BB as on the other bikes which have 73º-or-steeper seat tubes & more normal setback seatposts.
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Since my new bike has a 1.1cm longer tube tube than my Condor, I figure I actually do need a 130mm stem on my Condor to get the same overall reach, but 1cm isn't going to make that much difference.
Â
I notice on the single speed bike the saddle is quite far forwards, whch puts more weight on your hands, right? I'm trying to move back if anything to get a more "balanced position" with less weight on my hands.
Handlebar shape + how they are angled can definitely be a matter of personal preference ...
- as I indicated, I got used to the "dip" ...
AND (as they say), I didn't realize I would miss it until it was gone!
BTW. Presuming you are referring to the 'red' RALEIGH, you should note that the seat tube has a rather slack angle (~72º) ...
Consequently, a zero-setback seatpost actually provides the same relative positon of the-saddle-to-the-BB as on the other bikes which have 73º-or-steeper seat tubes & more normal setback seatposts.
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