handlebar width for new road bike

[Warren Ginn]

Hi:

I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike for road riding (sounds
crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar is, here's a pic:

http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/hndlbars_jpg/c1c_brahma.jpg

Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good for sprinting and up hills
(which is what I really use it for). I think triatheletes use them as well..

I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since it lets me stretch out while
remaining slightly upright. The complaint I hear a lot from other road riders is that the drop bars
lean them over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the scenery. I like to see
where I'm going without sitting up too high. I think i have found the right compromise for me.

I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....

Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and I want some advise to make
sure I'm using the correct width. The one I have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width,
because my brake levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several comforatble hand
positions (which is really very important to me).

Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been looking at include the Trek 7700
FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up like a
mountain bike.

Any input would be great.

Thanks,

Warren

 

[Robert Chambers]

Warren,

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you should be able to feel a
knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a
line coming up through the center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do yourself). That distance, in
centimeters, should be the center-to-center width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll
need to depart from that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete types.

A comment on your position. I see road riders all the time who are cramped on their bikes. There's a
general rule that, using conventional bars, when you're riding with your hands on the brake hoods,
the handlebar should be directly in line with the front hub (obscuring your view of it). These kinds
of general rules never work for everyone, but that's one that's really worked for me. It puts my
back in a very flat and comfortable position and distributes my weight very comfortably between the
saddle and the bars. You might want to try that with a set of conventional bars. If it works, you'll
have the comfort you're looking for, plus the flexibility to get down in the drops when you need a
more aero position.

Enjoy your new bike!

Bob C. "Warren Ginn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi:
>
> I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike for road riding (sounds
> crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar is, here's a pic:
>
> http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/hndlbars_jpg/c1c_brahma.jpg
>
> Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good for sprinting and up hills
> (which is what I really use it for). I think triatheletes use them as well..
>
> I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since it lets me stretch out while
> remaining slightly upright. The complaint I hear a lot from other road riders is that the drop
> bars lean them over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the scenery. I
> like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I think i have found the right
> compromise for me.
>
> I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....
>
> Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and I want some advise to make
> sure I'm using the correct width. The one I have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width,
> because my brake levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several comforatble
> hand positions (which is really very important to me).
>
> Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been looking at include the Trek
> 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up like
> a mountain bike.
>
> Any input would be great.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Warren

 

[John Aurentz]

Thanks Robert,

I never knew how to figure out this mmeasurement for handlebar width.

John

"Robert Chambers" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Warren,
>
> Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you should be able to feel
> a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a
> line coming up through the center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
> distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do yourself). That distance, in
> centimeters, should be the center-to-center width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll
> need to depart from that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete types.
>
> A comment on your position. I see road riders all the time who are cramped on their bikes. There's
> a general rule that, using conventional bars, when you're riding with your hands on the brake
> hoods, the handlebar should be directly in line with the front hub (obscuring your view of it).
> These kinds of general rules never work for everyone, but that's one that's really worked for me.
> It puts my back in a very flat and comfortable position and distributes my weight very comfortably
> between the saddle and the bars. You might want to try that with a set of conventional bars. If it
> works, you'll have the comfort you're looking for, plus the flexibility to get down in the drops
> when you need a more aero position.
>
> Enjoy your new bike!
>
> Bob C. "Warren Ginn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi:
> >
> > I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike for road riding (sounds
> > crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar is, here's a pic:
> >
> > http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/hndlbars_jpg/c1c_brahma.jpg
> >
> > Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good for sprinting and up hills
> > (which is what I really use it for). I think triatheletes use them as well..
> >
> > I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since it lets me stretch out
> > while remaining slightly upright. The complaint I hear a lot from other road riders is that the
> > drop bars lean them over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the scenery.
> > I like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I think i have found the right
> > compromise for me.
> >
> > I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....
> >
> > Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and I want some advise to make
> > sure I'm using the correct width. The one I have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width,
> > because my brake levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several comforatble
> > hand positions (which is really very important to me).
> >
> > Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been looking at include the Trek
> > 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up
> > like a mountain bike.
> >
> > Any input would be great.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Warren

 

[N Crowley]

[email protected] (John Aurentz) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> Thanks Robert,
>
> I never knew how to figure out this mmeasurement for handlebar width.
>
> John
>
>
> "Robert Chambers" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > Warren,
> >
> > Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you should be able to
> > feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of the shoulder. It would pretty much be
> > where a line coming up through the center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to
> > measure the distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do yourself). That
> > distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center width of a conventional set of road
> > bars. How you'll need to depart from that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some
> > triathlete types.
> >
At what convention was it decided. Why do riders go for that narrower hand position when riding
alone during a road race, as if trying to use imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that
something is wrong with the technique or equipment setup.

 

[David Kerber]

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...

...

> > > Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you should be able to
> > > feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of the shoulder. It would pretty much
> > > be where a line coming up through the center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone
> > > to measure the distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do yourself).
> > > That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center width of a conventional set of
> > > road bars. How you'll need to depart from that for your steer horns is maybe a good question
> > > for some triathlete types.
> > >
> At what convention was it decided.

Long experience has shown that it works at least as a starting point for most riders.

> Why do riders go for that narrower hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if
> trying to use imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with the
> technique or equipment setup.

Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as precise control of the bike, so
you can put your hands and arms in the more aero/less stable position.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

 

[Mark Hickey]

[email protected] (n crowley) wrote:

>> "Robert Chambers" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> > Warren,
>> >
>> > Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you should be able to
>> > feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of the shoulder. It would pretty much be
>> > where a line coming up through the center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to
>> > measure the distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do yourself). That
>> > distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center width of a conventional set of road
>> > bars. How you'll need to depart from that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for
>> > some triathlete types.
>> >
> At what convention was it decided. Why do riders go for that narrower hand position when riding
> alone during a road race, as if trying to use imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that
> something is wrong with the technique or equipment setup.

They slide forward when they're going hammer and tongs too - is the "conventional wisdom" of saddle
placement wrong? And they'll slide back on the saddle when climbing.

Or are you *really* suggesting that anyone who might use the flats of the bars occasionally (it's
done commonly during a climb, too...) is riding a horribly set up bike?

Surely not...

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame

 

[N Crowley]

David Kerber <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > Why do riders go for that narrower hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if
> > trying to use imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with the
> > technique or equipment setup.
>
> Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as precise control of the bike,
> so you can put your hands and arms in the more aero/less stable position.

I understand the aerodynamic advantage, but in that position he cannot use his arms. Why do the
bars have to be so wide, narrower bars would reduce the risk of bar touching accidents when riding
in groups.

 

[David Kerber]

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> David Kerber <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> >
> > > Why do riders go for that narrower hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if
> > > trying to use imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with the
> > > technique or equipment setup.
> >
> > Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as precise control of the
> > bike, so you can put your hands and arms in the more aero/less stable position.
>
>
> I understand the aerodynamic advantage, but in that position he cannot use his arms. Why do the
> bars have to be so wide, narrower bars would reduce the risk of bar touching accidents when
> riding in groups.

I'm just speculating here, but it makes sense to me that the bars would be of a width where the arms
run straight forward and back, neither angling in or out, again for aerodynamic reasons. They also
need to be wide enough to give good control when climbing, riding in a pack, or on rough roads. The
aerobar position (whether there are actually bars there or not) does not give good control.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

 

[Doug Cook]

Wider bars open up the chest allowing easier breathing (when hands are on the hoods or drops). I
just switched from a 40mm to 44mm and it did make a big difference. But being 6'3" I shoulda never
been on 40mm to begin with.

"n crowley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> David Kerber <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> >
> > > Why do riders go for that narrower hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if
> > > trying to
use
> > > imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong
with
> > > the technique or equipment setup.
> >
> > Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as precise control of the
> > bike, so you can put your hands and arms in the more aero/less stable position.
>
>
> I understand the aerodynamic advantage, but in that position he cannot
use
> his arms. Why do the bars have to be so wide, narrower bars would reduce
the
> risk of bar touching accidents when riding in groups.

 

[Warren Ginn]

Thanks, Bob.

So, what do you think of stretching out on "bull horns" as opposed to drop bars? I like the wider
grip and I feel I have better control - and I can also see better - than those tucked further down.
I know I'm giving up some aerodynamics in exchange for a better view a little more comfort. But am I
missing anything here? Am I going to regret setting the bike up this way, or is it pure preference
and I just like an unconventional set up?

Thanks again.

Warren

"Robert Chambers" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Warren,
>
> Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you should be able to feel
> a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a
> line coming up through the center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
> distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do yourself). That distance, in
> centimeters, should be the center-to-center width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll
> need to depart from that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete types.
>
> A comment on your position. I see road riders all the time who are cramped on their bikes. There's
> a general rule that, using conventional bars, when you're riding with your hands on the brake
> hoods, the handlebar should be directly in line with the front hub (obscuring your view of it).
> These kinds of general rules never work for everyone, but that's one that's really worked for me.
> It puts my back in a very flat and comfortable position and distributes my weight very comfortably
> between the saddle and the bars. You might want to try that with a set of conventional bars. If it
> works, you'll have the comfort you're looking for, plus the flexibility to get down in the drops
> when you need a more aero position.
>
> Enjoy your new bike!
>
> Bob C. "Warren Ginn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi:
> >
> > I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike for road riding (sounds
> > crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar is, here's a pic:
> >
> > http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/hndlbars_jpg/c1c_brahma.jpg
> >
> > Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good for sprinting and up hills
> > (which is what I really use it for). I think triatheletes use them as well..
> >
> > I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since it lets me stretch out
> > while remaining slightly upright. The complaint I hear a lot from other road riders is that the
> > drop bars lean them over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the scenery.
> > I like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I think i have found the right
> > compromise for me.
> >
> > I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....
> >
> > Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and I want some advise to make
> > sure I'm using the correct width. The one I have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width,
> > because my brake levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several comforatble
> > hand positions (which is really very important to me).
> >
> > Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been looking at include the Trek
> > 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up
> > like a mountain bike.
> >
> > Any input would be great.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Warren