has anyone tried radial lacing a rear wheel??
- Thread starter anerobic
- Start date
- Status
I tried it once about 38 years ago.
I only did it because the combination of rim, hub, and spoke lengths I had. I bought the box of 100 spokes from my Schwinn dealer for $0.50
It was easy to do and it worked OK.
I couldn't feel any difference from a tangentially spoked wheel.
I rode the wheel for some time, but it began to break spokes. Broken spokes weren't costly because I had the left overs from a box of 100 that I could use as replacements. However, I had some ruined rides, wasted time... inlcuding time to pull the freewheel.
I replaced about a dozen spokes before I developed a hub problem. The spokes were wearing out the hub spoke holes.
I finally trashed the hub and spokes.
If you read the warning that comes with every Shimano and Chris King hub, they tell you that the warranty is voided is you radially lace.
There is a better explanation as to what happens and why not radially lace in "the Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.
David Ornee, Western Springs, IL
W
Werehatrack
Guest
On 2 Oct 2003 07:43:01 +0950, anerobic <[email protected]> may have said:
>i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
>would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#radial
Condensed version: Dont do it.
I think this may also be addressed in Jobst Brandt's book, but I don't have a copy here, so I can't
check at the moment.
--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.
>i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
>would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#radial
Condensed version: Dont do it.
I think this may also be addressed in Jobst Brandt's book, but I don't have a copy here, so I can't
check at the moment.
--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.
J
Jim Beam
Guest
when i was a kid, a guy in my club rode one. he time trialled on it for about 2 years, then gave
up riding.
/i/ never tried it, but he said it was fine.
as any wheel builder will tell you, this is /not/ the way to build a rear. geometrical arguments
aside, i still wouldn't do it because of hub flange failure risk. radial requires strengthened
flanges and this
is /not/ anticipated for drive side rear in any build-it-yourself hub i've ever seen.
jb
anerobic wrote:
> i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
> would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
>
>
>
> --
>
>>--------------------------<
>
> Posted via cyclingforums.com http://www.cyclingforums.com
up riding.
/i/ never tried it, but he said it was fine.
as any wheel builder will tell you, this is /not/ the way to build a rear. geometrical arguments
aside, i still wouldn't do it because of hub flange failure risk. radial requires strengthened
flanges and this
is /not/ anticipated for drive side rear in any build-it-yourself hub i've ever seen.
jb
anerobic wrote:
> i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
> would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
>
>
>
> --
>
>>--------------------------<
>
> Posted via cyclingforums.com http://www.cyclingforums.com
M
Mike Beauchamp
Guest
When I had nothing to do when I worked at a bike shop, I laced up an old rim with X3 on the drive
side and radial on the other side. Just for fun...
That wheel is still on my dad's bike and running fine. But, that by NO MEANS signifies that it was a
good idea to do!!
I personally wouldn't do it..
Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
"anerobic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
> would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
>
>
>
> --
> >--------------------------<
> Posted via cyclingforums.com http://www.cyclingforums.com
side and radial on the other side. Just for fun...
That wheel is still on my dad's bike and running fine. But, that by NO MEANS signifies that it was a
good idea to do!!
I personally wouldn't do it..
Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
"anerobic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
> would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
>
>
>
> --
> >--------------------------<
> Posted via cyclingforums.com http://www.cyclingforums.com
S
S. Anderson
Guest
"Mike Beauchamp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When I had nothing to do when I worked at a bike shop, I laced up an old
rim
> with X3 on the drive side and radial on the other side. Just for fun...
>
> That wheel is still on my dad's bike and running fine. But, that by NO
MEANS
> signifies that it was a good idea to do!!
>
> I personally wouldn't do it..
>
> Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
Three cross on the drive and radial on the non is quite common. The 3x deals with the torsional
force introduced by the cassette and the radial just hangs in there and holds up the rim. It's
acutally not too bad. Like you though, I wouldn't do it. Radial has so few good points when compared
to 3x. It just doesn't make sense unless you want to do something different.
Cheers,
Scott..
news:[email protected]...
> When I had nothing to do when I worked at a bike shop, I laced up an old
rim
> with X3 on the drive side and radial on the other side. Just for fun...
>
> That wheel is still on my dad's bike and running fine. But, that by NO
MEANS
> signifies that it was a good idea to do!!
>
> I personally wouldn't do it..
>
> Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
Three cross on the drive and radial on the non is quite common. The 3x deals with the torsional
force introduced by the cassette and the radial just hangs in there and holds up the rim. It's
acutally not too bad. Like you though, I wouldn't do it. Radial has so few good points when compared
to 3x. It just doesn't make sense unless you want to do something different.
Cheers,
Scott..
S
Sheldon Brown
Guest
daveornee wrote:
> anerobic wrote:
> > i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the
> > wheel would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
>
> I tried it once about 38 years ago. I only did it because the combination of rim, hub, and spoke
> lengths I had. I bought the box of 100 spokes from my Schwinn dealer for $0.50 It was easy to do
> and it worked OK. I couldn't feel any difference from a tangentially spoked wheel. I rode the
> wheel for some time, but it began to break spokes. Broken spokes weren't costly because I had the
> left overs from a box of 100 that I could use as replacements. However, I had some ruined rides,
> wasted time... inlcuding time to pull the freewheel. I replaced about a dozen spokes before I
> developed a hub problem. The spokes were wearing out the hub spoke holes. I finally trashed the
> hub and spokes.
This doesn't surprise me. The usual warnings against radial spoking apply to _front_ hubs, which
have no torsional loading. The situation is _much_ more serious in the case of rear wheels (or any
wheel with a hub brake,)
In any spoke pattern, if you extend the spoke line inward until it approaches as close to the
centerline of the axle as it gets, the distance between the two lines is the "moment arm" of the
spoke as regards torsional loads.
The torsional component of the spoke tension is inversely proportional to this moment arm distance.
That's the reason large flange hubs used to be popular for touring bikes, because back in the day of
lower quality spokes and lower standards of wheelbuilding, spokes used to sometimes break when
subjected to high torsional loading.
In the case of a perfectly radial spoke, where the moment arm distance is zero, any torsional load
will theoretically create an infinite amount of tension on the spoke!
In practice, of course, the spokes will elnogate a bit, and the hub will "wind up" a bit until there
is sufficient moment arm to make the rim turn, but this creates a load which, while not "infinite"
is still enormous.
Sheldon "Still Likes Radials In Front" Brown
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
| Sometimes the only thing more dangerous than a question | is an answer. --Ferengi Rule of
| Acquisition #208 |
+-----------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
> anerobic wrote:
> > i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the
> > wheel would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
>
> I tried it once about 38 years ago. I only did it because the combination of rim, hub, and spoke
> lengths I had. I bought the box of 100 spokes from my Schwinn dealer for $0.50 It was easy to do
> and it worked OK. I couldn't feel any difference from a tangentially spoked wheel. I rode the
> wheel for some time, but it began to break spokes. Broken spokes weren't costly because I had the
> left overs from a box of 100 that I could use as replacements. However, I had some ruined rides,
> wasted time... inlcuding time to pull the freewheel. I replaced about a dozen spokes before I
> developed a hub problem. The spokes were wearing out the hub spoke holes. I finally trashed the
> hub and spokes.
This doesn't surprise me. The usual warnings against radial spoking apply to _front_ hubs, which
have no torsional loading. The situation is _much_ more serious in the case of rear wheels (or any
wheel with a hub brake,)
In any spoke pattern, if you extend the spoke line inward until it approaches as close to the
centerline of the axle as it gets, the distance between the two lines is the "moment arm" of the
spoke as regards torsional loads.
The torsional component of the spoke tension is inversely proportional to this moment arm distance.
That's the reason large flange hubs used to be popular for touring bikes, because back in the day of
lower quality spokes and lower standards of wheelbuilding, spokes used to sometimes break when
subjected to high torsional loading.
In the case of a perfectly radial spoke, where the moment arm distance is zero, any torsional load
will theoretically create an infinite amount of tension on the spoke!
In practice, of course, the spokes will elnogate a bit, and the hub will "wind up" a bit until there
is sufficient moment arm to make the rim turn, but this creates a load which, while not "infinite"
is still enormous.
Sheldon "Still Likes Radials In Front" Brown
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
| Sometimes the only thing more dangerous than a question | is an answer. --Ferengi Rule of
| Acquisition #208 |
+-----------------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton,
Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
J
Jobst Brandt
Guest
Sheldon Brown writes:
> This doesn't surprise me. The usual warnings against radial spoking apply to front hubs, which
> have no torsional loading. The situation is much more serious in the case of rear wheels (or any
> wheel with a hub brake,)
These warnings are given for front hubs because that is usually the only place where people like to
use radial spoking. The custom of left rear radial spoking having come more recently.
> In any spoke pattern, if you extend the spoke line inward until it approaches as close to the
> centerline of the axle as it gets, the distance between the two lines is the "moment arm" of the
> spoke as regards torsional loads.
> The torsional component of the spoke tension is inversely proportional to this moment arm
> distance. That's the reason large flange hubs used to be popular for touring bikes, because back
> in the day of lower quality spokes and lower standards of wheelbuilding, spokes used to sometimes
> break when subjected to high torsional loading.
That was the belief at the time, but you'll notice that the use of large flange hubs has greatly
diminished since then. People saw the analysis of how small these spoke loads are in comparison to
those produced by a vertical load on the wheel. Because torque induced tension is small, the
failures were most likely from poor spoke line at the nipple... and the lack of stress relieving.
We readily forget that spoke failures were formerly attributed to singular events of misuse, pot
holes, or jumping off curbs and the like. The concept of the fatigue failure in spokes was unheard
of. It was much like the belief in Brinell indenting of head bearings, that is actually caused by
fretting motions and lubricant depletion.
> In the case of a perfectly radial spoke, where the moment arm distance is zero, any torsional load
> will theoretically create an infinite amount of tension on the spoke!
That effect is striking because by the time there is practical "wind up" the cosine error (length
change) is significant and the tension increase can easily damage flanges.
> In practice, of course, the spokes will elongate a bit, and the hub will "wind up" a bit until
> there is sufficient moment arm to make the rim turn, but this creates a load which, while not
> "infinite" is still enormous.
The reason "wind up" remains small is that ALL spoke tension, rather than just a differential
tension change of pulling and pushing spokes, acts on the hub to rotate the wheel. This is the
saving grace of rear wheel radial spoking. That is to say, by this force triangle, great torque for
a tiny lever length is generated and makes the wheel feel as torsionally stiff as a cross laced
wheel. Windup remains too small to be felt through the normal drive train ratios.
Jobst Brandt [email protected]
> This doesn't surprise me. The usual warnings against radial spoking apply to front hubs, which
> have no torsional loading. The situation is much more serious in the case of rear wheels (or any
> wheel with a hub brake,)
These warnings are given for front hubs because that is usually the only place where people like to
use radial spoking. The custom of left rear radial spoking having come more recently.
> In any spoke pattern, if you extend the spoke line inward until it approaches as close to the
> centerline of the axle as it gets, the distance between the two lines is the "moment arm" of the
> spoke as regards torsional loads.
> The torsional component of the spoke tension is inversely proportional to this moment arm
> distance. That's the reason large flange hubs used to be popular for touring bikes, because back
> in the day of lower quality spokes and lower standards of wheelbuilding, spokes used to sometimes
> break when subjected to high torsional loading.
That was the belief at the time, but you'll notice that the use of large flange hubs has greatly
diminished since then. People saw the analysis of how small these spoke loads are in comparison to
those produced by a vertical load on the wheel. Because torque induced tension is small, the
failures were most likely from poor spoke line at the nipple... and the lack of stress relieving.
We readily forget that spoke failures were formerly attributed to singular events of misuse, pot
holes, or jumping off curbs and the like. The concept of the fatigue failure in spokes was unheard
of. It was much like the belief in Brinell indenting of head bearings, that is actually caused by
fretting motions and lubricant depletion.
> In the case of a perfectly radial spoke, where the moment arm distance is zero, any torsional load
> will theoretically create an infinite amount of tension on the spoke!
That effect is striking because by the time there is practical "wind up" the cosine error (length
change) is significant and the tension increase can easily damage flanges.
> In practice, of course, the spokes will elongate a bit, and the hub will "wind up" a bit until
> there is sufficient moment arm to make the rim turn, but this creates a load which, while not
> "infinite" is still enormous.
The reason "wind up" remains small is that ALL spoke tension, rather than just a differential
tension change of pulling and pushing spokes, acts on the hub to rotate the wheel. This is the
saving grace of rear wheel radial spoking. That is to say, by this force triangle, great torque for
a tiny lever length is generated and makes the wheel feel as torsionally stiff as a cross laced
wheel. Windup remains too small to be felt through the normal drive train ratios.
Jobst Brandt [email protected]
A
Andrew Lee
Guest
"anerobic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
> would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
No experience, but I saw a wheel like this a couple of weeks ago. At a stop light, I was stopped
behind a car with some bikes on a rear rack. I noticed something unusual about the wheels of the BMX
bike hanging there, and it took me a moment to realize that both front and rear wheels were
completely radially laced. With 20" rims and what looked like 48(?) spokes, it sure looked
different.
> i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that the wheel
> would feel mushy when you stepped on the cranks hard. but maybe not???any experiences?
No experience, but I saw a wheel like this a couple of weeks ago. At a stop light, I was stopped
behind a car with some bikes on a rear rack. I noticed something unusual about the wheels of the BMX
bike hanging there, and it took me a moment to realize that both front and rear wheels were
completely radially laced. With 20" rims and what looked like 48(?) spokes, it sure looked
different.
M
Mike Beauchamp
Guest
I just did it because, exactly how you described, it made sense to me. Plus I was bored and an extra
rim and hub were laying around
Man, i wish working at a bike store. I think I might start a new thread on good ways to go about
getting a job at a bike store.
Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
"S. Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Beauchamp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > When I had nothing to do when I worked at a bike shop, I laced up an old
> rim
> > with X3 on the drive side and radial on the other side. Just for fun...
> >
> > That wheel is still on my dad's bike and running fine. But, that by NO
> MEANS
> > signifies that it was a good idea to do!!
> >
> > I personally wouldn't do it..
> >
> > Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
>
> Three cross on the drive and radial on the non is quite common. The 3x deals with the torsional
> force introduced by the cassette and the radial just hangs in there and holds up the rim. It's
> acutally not too bad.
Like
> you though, I wouldn't do it. Radial has so few good points when compared to 3x. It just doesn't
> make sense unless you want to do something different.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Scott..
rim and hub were laying around
Man, i wish working at a bike store. I think I might start a new thread on good ways to go about
getting a job at a bike store.
Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
"S. Anderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Beauchamp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > When I had nothing to do when I worked at a bike shop, I laced up an old
> rim
> > with X3 on the drive side and radial on the other side. Just for fun...
> >
> > That wheel is still on my dad's bike and running fine. But, that by NO
> MEANS
> > signifies that it was a good idea to do!!
> >
> > I personally wouldn't do it..
> >
> > Mike http://mikebeauchamp.com
>
> Three cross on the drive and radial on the non is quite common. The 3x deals with the torsional
> force introduced by the cassette and the radial just hangs in there and holds up the rim. It's
> acutally not too bad.
Like
> you though, I wouldn't do it. Radial has so few good points when compared to 3x. It just doesn't
> make sense unless you want to do something different.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Scott..
Q
Qui Si Parla Ca
Guest
anerobic-<< i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that
the whe >><BR><BR>
Saw a customer's wheel that had this done. The spoke holes on each flange were aligned with each
other, the center part of the hub was so twisted the 'dura-ace' was distorted.
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
the whe >><BR><BR>
Saw a customer's wheel that had this done. The spoke holes on each flange were aligned with each
other, the center part of the hub was so twisted the 'dura-ace' was distorted.
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
W
W K
Guest
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Sheldon Brown writes:
> > wheelbuilding, spokes used to sometimes break when subjected to high torsional loading.
(been there)
> That was the belief at the time, but you'll notice that the use of large flange hubs has greatly
> diminished since then. People saw the analysis of how small these spoke loads are in comparison to
> those produced by a vertical load on the wheel.
( Iknow you have dealt with this in detail, elsewhere - but... ) I've never seen your calculations
about torsional spoke load vs normal tension.
Does this include the extra torsional load that would occur for very short periods if someone pedals
in an uneven way (ie effectively kicking at pedals) - or worse when in a low gear and the chain hops
- with the hammering effect making a large force.
Anyway - even if these are not usually significant, they could be "the last straw" that finishes a
compromised spoke in the way SB mentions, and has happened to me.
> Sheldon Brown writes:
> > wheelbuilding, spokes used to sometimes break when subjected to high torsional loading.
(been there)
> That was the belief at the time, but you'll notice that the use of large flange hubs has greatly
> diminished since then. People saw the analysis of how small these spoke loads are in comparison to
> those produced by a vertical load on the wheel.
( Iknow you have dealt with this in detail, elsewhere - but... ) I've never seen your calculations
about torsional spoke load vs normal tension.
Does this include the extra torsional load that would occur for very short periods if someone pedals
in an uneven way (ie effectively kicking at pedals) - or worse when in a low gear and the chain hops
- with the hammering effect making a large force.
Anyway - even if these are not usually significant, they could be "the last straw" that finishes a
compromised spoke in the way SB mentions, and has happened to me.
W
Werehatrack
Guest
On 02 Oct 2003 12:34:59 GMT, [email protected] (Qui si parla Campagnolo) may have said:
>anerobic-<< i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that
>the whe >><BR><BR>
>
>Saw a customer's wheel that had this done. The spoke holes on each flange were aligned with each
>other, the center part of the hub was so twisted the 'dura-ace' was distorted.
What did they do, lace no-cross at an angle, with the left leading and the right trailing? And then
keep swapping spokes as the tension dropped, until they were all straight?
--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.
>anerobic-<< i mean on both sides of the rear. i'm just curious what would happen. i'm guessing that
>the whe >><BR><BR>
>
>Saw a customer's wheel that had this done. The spoke holes on each flange were aligned with each
>other, the center part of the hub was so twisted the 'dura-ace' was distorted.
What did they do, lace no-cross at an angle, with the left leading and the right trailing? And then
keep swapping spokes as the tension dropped, until they were all straight?
--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.
S
Sheldon Brown
Guest
Quoth Peter Chisholm:
>>Saw a customer's wheel that had this done. The spoke holes on each flange were aligned with each
>>other, the center part of the hub was so twisted the 'dura-ace' was distorted.
A shy poster asked:
> What did they do, lace no-cross at an angle, with the left leading and the right trailing? And
> then keep swapping spokes as the tension dropped, until they were all straight?
I tried that once years ago, just for jollies, with a front wheel, Normandy high flange hub. Spokes
sized for cross 3.
Went completely noodly within a couple of miles of riding.
Sheldon "Not Reliable Like My Half Radial Front Wheel" Brown
+------------------------------------------------+
| Nobody who has anything to do with bicycles | has _all_ of their marbles, and some of us | are
| certifiable! | --Sheldon Brown |
+------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone
617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
>>Saw a customer's wheel that had this done. The spoke holes on each flange were aligned with each
>>other, the center part of the hub was so twisted the 'dura-ace' was distorted.
A shy poster asked:
> What did they do, lace no-cross at an angle, with the left leading and the right trailing? And
> then keep swapping spokes as the tension dropped, until they were all straight?
I tried that once years ago, just for jollies, with a front wheel, Normandy high flange hub. Spokes
sized for cross 3.
Went completely noodly within a couple of miles of riding.
Sheldon "Not Reliable Like My Half Radial Front Wheel" Brown
+------------------------------------------------+
| Nobody who has anything to do with bicycles | has _all_ of their marbles, and some of us | are
| certifiable! | --Sheldon Brown |
+------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone
617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
R
Rick Onanian
Guest
On 2 Oct 2003 08:44:02 +0950, daveornee <[email protected]> wrote:
>read the warning that comes with every Shimano and Chris King hub, they tell you that the warranty
>is voided is you radially lace. There is a
Really? Is that voidation only when radially-lacing rear wheels, or for both front and rear?
My Giant TCR2 came with the front wheel radially laced; but I suppose Giant buys their Shimano parts
without warranties from Shimano, anyway...
--
Rick "Radialactive" Onanian
>read the warning that comes with every Shimano and Chris King hub, they tell you that the warranty
>is voided is you radially lace. There is a
Really? Is that voidation only when radially-lacing rear wheels, or for both front and rear?
My Giant TCR2 came with the front wheel radially laced; but I suppose Giant buys their Shimano parts
without warranties from Shimano, anyway...
--
Rick "Radialactive" Onanian
R
Ryan Cousineau
Guest
In article <[email protected]>, "Mike Beauchamp" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just did it because, exactly how you described, it made sense to me. Plus I was bored and an
> extra rim and hub were laying around
>
> Man, i wish working at a bike store. I think I might start a new thread on good ways to go about
> getting a job at a bike store.
Be a very good mechanic, or be willing to work cheap.
That's it, end of thread...
--
Ryan Cousineau, [email protected] http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club
> I just did it because, exactly how you described, it made sense to me. Plus I was bored and an
> extra rim and hub were laying around
>
> Man, i wish working at a bike store. I think I might start a new thread on good ways to go about
> getting a job at a bike store.
Be a very good mechanic, or be willing to work cheap.
That's it, end of thread...
--
Ryan Cousineau, [email protected] http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club
G
G.Daniels
Guest
know a guy hasa mcCullogh lawrence of arabia special-tried a radial rear rim lace. i explained the
bridge hypothesis. came back a couple months later to find a downhill hi end rim with unobtanium
spokes and duh shim whazzit internal gear special hub complete with mystery brake. so i asked "what
happened to the wheel with the radial lacing."??? no answer silence
bridge hypothesis. came back a couple months later to find a downhill hi end rim with unobtanium
spokes and duh shim whazzit internal gear special hub complete with mystery brake. so i asked "what
happened to the wheel with the radial lacing."??? no answer silence
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