Hayes Hydraulic Brake Adjustment ?



J

JeffP

Guest
I haven't ridden in awhile....

my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension

I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they really do
belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case someone squeezes the
brake levers.

Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride and they'll
self adjust; considering the extra friction as pre-grade warm up?

Any suggestions?


TIA

JeffP....
 
JeffP wrote:
> I haven't ridden in awhile....
>
> my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>
> I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they really do
> belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case someone squeezes the
> brake levers.
>
> Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride and they'll
> self adjust; considering the extra friction as pre-grade warm up?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> TIA
>
> JeffP....
>
>

If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the trial.
Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's instruction, and
gentle push the pistons into the housing as much as possible. If they
will not stay, and your caliper alignment is correct, then it's probably
time for a good bleed.
____
Slack
 
"Slack™" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> JeffP wrote:
> > I haven't ridden in awhile....
> >
> > my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
> >
> > I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they

really do
> > belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case someone squeezes

the
> > brake levers.
> >
> > Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride and

they'll
> > self adjust; considering the extra friction as pre-grade warm up?
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > JeffP....
> >
> >

> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the trial.
> Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's instruction, and
> gentle push the pistons into the housing as much as possible. If they
> will not stay, and your caliper alignment is correct, then it's probably
> time for a good bleed.
> ____
> Slack


Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
mech brakes so I can not compare.

--
- Zilla
Cary, NC USA
(Remove XSPAM)
 
"Zilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "SlackT" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> JeffP wrote:
>> > I haven't ridden in awhile....
>> >
>> > my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>> >
>> > I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they

> really do
>> > belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case someone squeezes

> the
>> > brake levers.
>> >
>> > Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride and

> they'll
>> > self adjust; considering the extra friction as pre-grade warm up?
>> >
>> > Any suggestions?
>> >
>> >
>> > TIA
>> >
>> > JeffP....
>> >
>> >

>> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the trial.
>> Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's instruction, and
>> gentle push the pistons into the housing as much as possible. If they
>> will not stay, and your caliper alignment is correct, then it's probably
>> time for a good bleed.
>> ____
>> Slack

>
> Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
> really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
> mech brakes so I can not compare.
>
> --
> - Zilla
> Cary, NC USA
> (Remove XSPAM)


I find the hydros to be worth every penny. I had the Avid mechs-- where I
ride it is very wet and the Avids/cables would foul constantly. It was
partly a cable routing issue- cable went under the bb and water and sediment
would settle at the low point. It only took one or two water crossings and
my rear brakes were done for the rest of the ride. I have had the hydro
Hayes for two years now and love them. I have had to do zero maitaince,
lever pull to stopping power ratio is low and I wish I had them on my road
bike sometimes.

Steve
>
>
>
 
Zilla wrote:

> "Slack™" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message


>> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the trial.
>> Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's instruction, and
>> gentle push the pistons into the housing as much as possible. If they
>> will not stay, and your caliper alignment is correct, then it's probably
>> time for a good bleed.
>> ____
>> Slack

>
> Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
> really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
> mech brakes so I can not compare.
>


Yeah, it's worth it, imho. DOT brake fluid will absorb some moisture
over time. Depending on the type and usage, you could easily go well
over a year without touching them... maybe more.

Bleeding can sometimes be tricky, but a many of the problems, including
ones I've experienced, are from the user error. Some patiences and
using a syringe instead of the Hayes squeeze bottle will eliminate 98%
of the problems. I had a problem with the F brake on my DH bike...
drove down the street to a LBS, and the dude had my brake bled, tested
and back in my hands in like 15 minutes, so , like many things, it's
just a matter of knowing what you doing.

Would you want to go back to elastomer fork technology or carburetor on
cars? I can't even remember how times I had to rebuild the carb on my
RX7... damn the carburetor to hades !!!

Even if I had a beach cruiser, I find a way to hook up hydraulics to it.
_____
Slack
 
Zilla wrote:
> "SlackT" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> JeffP wrote:
>>> I haven't ridden in awhile....
>>>
>>> my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>>>
>>> I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they
>>> really do belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case
>>> someone squeezes the brake levers.
>>>
>>> Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride
>>> and they'll self adjust; considering the extra friction as
>>> pre-grade warm up?
>>>
>>> Any suggestions?
>>>
>>>
>>> TIA
>>>
>>> JeffP....
>>>
>>>

>> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the trial.
>> Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's instruction, and
>> gentle push the pistons into the housing as much as possible. If
>> they will not stay, and your caliper alignment is correct, then it's
>> probably time for a good bleed.
>> ____
>> Slack

>
> Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
> really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
> mech brakes so I can not compare.


It's not in my opinion. It's like my motorbike that wouldn't start again
after long rides... I had to push-start it to get it running again. I would
have gone with a kick-start if I had the choice.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:5c3Pf.479642$0l5.80645@dukeread06...
> Zilla wrote:
>> "SlackT" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> JeffP wrote:
>>>> I haven't ridden in awhile....
>>>>
>>>> my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>>>>
>>>> I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they
>>>> really do belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case
>>>> someone squeezes the brake levers.
>>>>
>>>> Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride
>>>> and they'll self adjust; considering the extra friction as
>>>> pre-grade warm up?
>>>>
>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>>>>
>>>> JeffP....
>>>>
>>>>
>>> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the trial.
>>> Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's instruction, and
>>> gentle push the pistons into the housing as much as possible. If
>>> they will not stay, and your caliper alignment is correct, then it's
>>> probably time for a good bleed.
>>> ____
>>> Slack

>>
>> Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
>> really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
>> mech brakes so I can not compare.

>
> It's not in my opinion. It's like my motorbike that wouldn't start again
> after long rides... I had to push-start it to get it running again. I
> would have gone with a kick-start if I had the choice.
>
> --
> Phil, Squid-in-Training
>

the first time that thing would of kicked back and bent your leg or toes
the wrong way you wouldn't say that! ;)
 
Kyle wrote:
> "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]>
> wrote in message news:5c3Pf.479642$0l5.80645@dukeread06...
>> Zilla wrote:
>>> "SlackT" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> JeffP wrote:
>>>>> I haven't ridden in awhile....
>>>>>
>>>>> my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>>>>>
>>>>> I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they
>>>>> really do belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case
>>>>> someone squeezes the brake levers.
>>>>>
>>>>> Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride
>>>>> and they'll self adjust; considering the extra friction as
>>>>> pre-grade warm up?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> TIA
>>>>>
>>>>> JeffP....
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the
>>>> trial. Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's
>>>> instruction, and gentle push the pistons into the housing as much
>>>> as possible. If they will not stay, and your caliper alignment is
>>>> correct, then it's probably time for a good bleed.
>>>> ____
>>>> Slack
>>>
>>> Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
>>> really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
>>> mech brakes so I can not compare.

>>
>> It's not in my opinion. It's like my motorbike that wouldn't start
>> again after long rides... I had to push-start it to get it running
>> again. I would have gone with a kick-start if I had the choice.
>>
>> --
>> Phil, Squid-in-Training
>>

> the first time that thing would of kicked back and bent your leg or
> toes the wrong way you wouldn't say that! ;)


Hey now, I did get Kurt's XR600 started a while back...
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
Slack™ skrev:

> Yeah, it's worth it, imho. DOT brake fluid will absorb some moisture
> over time. Depending on the type and usage, you could easily go well
> over a year without touching them... maybe more.


Just curious, how are the current Magura Marta compared to the others?
beside maybe lightest
 
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> Kyle wrote:
>
>>"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]>
>>wrote in message news:5c3Pf.479642$0l5.80645@dukeread06...
>>
>>>Zilla wrote:
>>>
>>>>"SlackT" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>>JeffP wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I haven't ridden in awhile....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards (they
>>>>>>really do belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out in case
>>>>>>someone squeezes the brake levers.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just ride
>>>>>>and they'll self adjust; considering the extra friction as
>>>>>>pre-grade warm up?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Any suggestions?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>TIA
>>>>>>
>>>>>>JeffP....
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the
>>>>>trial. Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's
>>>>>instruction, and gentle push the pistons into the housing as much
>>>>>as possible. If they will not stay, and your caliper alignment is
>>>>> correct, then it's probably time for a good bleed.
>>>>>____
>>>>>Slack
>>>>
>>>>Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
>>>>really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
>>>>mech brakes so I can not compare.
>>>
>>>It's not in my opinion. It's like my motorbike that wouldn't start
>>>again after long rides... I had to push-start it to get it running
>>>again. I would have gone with a kick-start if I had the choice.
>>>
>>>--
>>>Phil, Squid-in-Training
>>>

>>
>>the first time that thing would of kicked back and bent your leg or
>>toes the wrong way you wouldn't say that! ;)

>
>
> Hey now, I did get Kurt's XR600 started a while back...


No problem. I start my bro's XR650 with bare feet.

Greg

--
"All my time I spent in heaven
Revelries of dance and wine
Waking to the sound of laughter
Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons
 
G.T. wrote:
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>> Kyle wrote:
>>
>>> "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote in message news:5c3Pf.479642$0l5.80645@dukeread06...
>>>
>>>> Zilla wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> "SlackT" <"Slack\"@½³.org"> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>>> JeffP wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I haven't ridden in awhile....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> my Hayes hydraulic bracks are partially under tension
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I stored my bike w/the tires off and dbl folded credit cards
>>>>>>> (they really do belong here) to keep the pads from jumping out
>>>>>>> in case someone squeezes the brake levers.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Before I "fix" it and make the situation worse, should I just
>>>>>>> ride and they'll self adjust; considering the extra friction as
>>>>>>> pre-grade warm up?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any suggestions?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> TIA
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> JeffP....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If they're rubbing now, you should fix them before hitting the
>>>>>> trial. Remove the pads and use a wrench, per the manual's
>>>>>> instruction, and gentle push the pistons into the housing as much
>>>>>> as possible. If they will not stay, and your caliper alignment
>>>>>> is correct, then it's probably time for a good bleed.
>>>>>> ____
>>>>>> Slack
>>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like a PITA. Is the extra cost and hassle of hydro brakes
>>>>> really worth it? I'm asking, not questioning. I've only had (Avid)
>>>>> mech brakes so I can not compare.
>>>>
>>>> It's not in my opinion. It's like my motorbike that wouldn't start
>>>> again after long rides... I had to push-start it to get it running
>>>> again. I would have gone with a kick-start if I had the choice.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Phil, Squid-in-Training
>>>>
>>>
>>> the first time that thing would of kicked back and bent your leg or
>>> toes the wrong way you wouldn't say that! ;)

>>
>>
>> Hey now, I did get Kurt's XR600 started a while back...

>
> No problem. I start my bro's XR650 with bare feet.


Yes, but I weigh 135lbs...

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> G.T. wrote:
>
>>Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Hey now, I did get Kurt's XR600 started a while back...

>>
>>No problem. I start my bro's XR650 with bare feet.

>
>
> Yes, but I weigh 135lbs...
>


I started my Dad's 1973 Husqvarna 450CR when I weighed 120 lbs...

....with my bare feet!

Greg
--
"All my time I spent in heaven
Revelries of dance and wine
Waking to the sound of laughter
Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons
 
G.T. wrote:
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>> G.T. wrote:
>>
>>> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hey now, I did get Kurt's XR600 started a while back...
>>>
>>> No problem. I start my bro's XR650 with bare feet.

>>
>>
>> Yes, but I weigh 135lbs...
>>

>
> I started my Dad's 1973 Husqvarna 450CR when I weighed 120 lbs...
>
> ...with my bare feet!
>
> Greg


Well I started to crawl when I was three months and weighed 6 pounds.
So there! :p

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws
 
Geir Eivind Mork wrote:
> Slack™ skrev:
>
>> Yeah, it's worth it, imho. DOT brake fluid will absorb some moisture
>> over time. Depending on the type and usage, you could easily go well
>> over a year without touching them... maybe more.

>
> Just curious, how are the current Magura Marta compared to the others?
> beside maybe lightest



Sorry, don't know. Magura might be more popular in Norway [and the EU],
but I don't know of anyone that runs them here in California.
_____
Slack
 

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