Originally Posted by John Owen .
I've just been given a bike to get to and from work but the headset has seized, well makes a crunching noise and won't turn more than a few degrees.
While you may need a new headset, it is possible that you may simply need
new grease AND possibly new bearings ...
SO, you may be able to get away with simply cleaning out the RUST which has probably formed-and-accumulated through neglect ...
And then, simply repacking the headset with new grease may get your bike back on the road ...
- Although most "loose" bearings are often caged, I recommend that you disassemble the headset with the bike upside-down.
To TEST whether-or-not simply regreasing and/or replacing the bearings will suffice, turn the bike upside down with the handlebars on top of some newspaper or newspaper-in-a-tray ... try to make the headtube as vertical as possible ... drip some 3-in-1 or lighter oil to the headset cups ... wipe the excess oil from the cups ... come back in 24 hours & check ...
Repeat ...
After three days (perhaps, sooner ... perhaps, never!?!), the headset should (hopefully) move freely ...
If so, then you know that new grease ([COLOR= #808080]e.g., White Lithium ... for headsets, that heavy-duty RED grease which you can buy at an automotive supply store may be better[/COLOR]) is the immediate solution until you have time to go to your LBS to buy some new ball bearings ([COLOR= #808080]the actual bearings & cups may be "okay" and it may simply be the cage which disintegrated -- the cage is mostly a convenience to facilitate assembly[/COLOR]) ...
- Figure on about 10¢ per bearing (maybe more, possibly less) ... different headsets use different size bearings, so the total number you will need will vary.
Presuming that the oil will free the headset AND although you could probably theoretically flush most of the rust out of the headset without disassembling it, you won't be able to repack it with fresh grease unless you disassemble it ...
Transmission oil could be dripped into the headset & used in lieu of grease, but it will quickly leak out & need to be
replaced after a very short period (hours) of time.
BTW. This is may be a little dodgy, but it is a tools-free-but-tedious option IF you can see the bearings (
[COLOR= #808080]OR, there is a gap between the race & cup[/COLOR]) when the bike is inverted ...
Then, IF you can
flush ALL of the rust out (the oil will run "[COLOR= #0000ff]
clear[/COLOR]"), then you can just pack some (
as much as possible!) grease directly onto the bearings & into the cups through the gap.