Headset dead spot?

[Hugh Fenton]

"Teh bike guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This is common and easy to fix, just squirt some toothpaste (whitening
> formulations work best) into the headset and ride around for a few miles,
> it will become all smooth again, after that you can flush with water and
> add grease.
>
>

On a vaguely similar topic.........

I've an old aluminium CADEX ALM1 where the (lubricated) seatpost keeps
slipping down slowly........ No, the clamp IS correctly adjusted AND the
seat tube isn't squeezed closed...but it still happens unless I overtension
the quick release (and I DO need one of these owing to the riding I do.)

A friend suggested that valve grinding paste would solve my
problem.........an inert grit to prevent movement embedded in a lubricant to
prevent seizure......

Comments??????

Hugh Fenton

 

[jim beam]

Hugh Fenton wrote:
> "Teh bike guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> This is common and easy to fix, just squirt some toothpaste (whitening
>> formulations work best) into the headset and ride around for a few miles,
>> it will become all smooth again, after that you can flush with water and
>> add grease.
>>
>>
>
> On a vaguely similar topic.........
>
> I've an old aluminium CADEX ALM1 where the (lubricated) seatpost keeps
> slipping down slowly........ No, the clamp IS correctly adjusted AND the
> seat tube isn't squeezed closed...but it still happens unless I overtension
> the quick release (and I DO need one of these owing to the riding I do.)
>
> A friend suggested that valve grinding paste would solve my
> problem.........an inert grit to prevent movement embedded in a lubricant to
> prevent seizure......
>
> Comments??????
>
> Hugh Fenton
>
>

cannondale use this kind of idea on their new bikes. but the grit in
their seat tube grease isn't abrasive, it's a plastic granule. but the
principle/effect is the same.

as for grinding paste, yes, it will work for a while, but it has a risk
of eroding the seat post [because there will be small movement and thus
abrasion] and it could subsequently fatigue and break.

is the post metal or carbon? if the latter, the tube and post should be
thoroughly cleaned and de-greased. you shouldn't have any slippage
problems after that.

 

[[email protected]]

On Apr 7, 6:09 am, "Hugh Fenton" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Teh bike guy" <[email protected]> wrote in messagenews:[email protected]...
>
> > This is common and easy to fix, just squirt some toothpaste (whitening
> > formulations work best) into the headset and ride around for a few miles,
> > it will become all smooth again, after that you can flush with water and
> > add grease.
>
> On a vaguely similar topic.........
>
> I've an old aluminium CADEX ALM1 where the (lubricated) seatpost keeps
> slipping down slowly........ No, the clamp IS correctly adjusted AND the
> seat tube isn't squeezed closed...but it still happens unless I overtension
> the quick release (and I DO need one of these owing to the riding I do.)
>
> A friend suggested that valve grinding paste would solve my
> problem.........an inert grit to prevent movement embedded in a lubricant to
> prevent seizure......
>
> Comments??????
>
> Hugh Fenton

It might be worth shelling out the extra $ for the Tacx assembly goo:
http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.asp?PART_NUM_SUB='2848-00'
It's intended for carbon on carbon, but should work anywhere. Rather
than abrasive particles which dig into the surface of the parts, it
has squishy plastic bits that just take up space.
This is of course assuming the post is the right size for the frame.
Some older frames used diameters that are close to, but not quite the
same as, current standards. Years of post slipping can bore the seat
tube out further. If that's the case, beer can it.

 

[[email protected]]

On Apr 6, 3:56 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 21:59:23 GMT, "Williams" <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
> >> [Note: Normally I would search the archives to find previous messages, but
> >> the Google Advanced Groups Search no longer works. Is there another tool
> >> for that?]
>
> >> It seems that my front wheel steering has a "dead spot" such that the front
> >> wheel wants to point straight ahead (like there is a detent). Is a headset
> >> adjustment called for?
>
> >> This is a Chris King threaded headset on a road bike.
>
> >> thanks,
> >> Craig
>
> > Dear Craig,
>
> > The usual fretting versus denting posts have appeared, emphasizing an
> > either-or approach and a firm belief that no variation exists between
> > different headsets.
>
> > A few pictures for the curious . . .
>
> > http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250headsetdimplesve2.jpg
>
> > http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250gheadsetdimplesrb9.jpg
>
> > http://i30.tinypic.com/21axwtf.jpg
>
> > Cheers,
>
> > Carl Fogel
>
> and by far the most relevant post to ever appear on this topic:http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/7e6cb5dd3954652c
>
> incredible that anyone should ever have the gonads to actually /test/
> something rather than just vocalize their ignorance.

Again, necessary but not sufficient. The general conclusion of the
test was that if headsets can be indented, softer headsets can be
indented more easily. It's a pretty big leap to go from there to
proof of indentation occurring. Softer metal wears more quickly in
Jobst's model as well.

 

[still just me]

On Mon, 07 Apr 2008 05:56:16 -0700, jim beam
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>as for grinding paste, yes, it will work for a while, but it has a risk
>of eroding the seat post [because there will be small movement and thus
>abrasion] and it could subsequently fatigue and break.

I think it's highly unlikely that using valve grinding paste
(typically around 500 grit) will lead to any sort of a failure. Those
are very, very minor. People run with scratches way deeper than that
on their posts from frame imperfections for years and years and years
and never have a failure.

For the OP, I still wouldn't use a compound with that kind of grit
factor to fix your seat post situation.

 

[[email protected]]

On Apr 6, 9:32 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> you're a blathering freakin' idiot utterly clueless of
> extremely well and abundantly documented facts that any "engineering
> professor" should know. all you do is shoot your mouth, completely
> unable to add the smallest quantum of value. other than entertaining
> with your uselessness of course. give up your day job krygowski. every
> check you cash is the commission of fraud.

Seems like every time I post web links that prove you're wrong, you
lapse into another childish tantrum. We've gone through this many
times - for example, when you claimed no bike components are castings.

You tell others to do your work, use Google to find photos to prove
you right. Why won't _you_ use Google to learn a little, before
arguing yourself into a corner? If you didn't have to defend such
obvious mistakes, maybe you could be more civil.

Google "false brinell." Read a few links. Or stop in at any
engineering library and start learning about bearings.

- Frank Krygowski

 

[[email protected]]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:17:51 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Apr 6, 3:54 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>> Carl Fogel wrote:
>>
>> > A few pictures for the curious...
>> > http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250headsetdimplesve2.jpg
>> > http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250gheadsetdimplesrb9.jpg
>> > http://i30.tinypic.com/21axwtf.jpg
>>
>> Unfortunately htese pictures are of lowest quality parts that do not
>> even have a ground bearing race so the wear track, although rough, is
>> smother than the original bearing race. This is not a good example of
>> the condition.
>>
>> These pictures show a more crass wear pattern that clearly shows no
>> Brinell indentation, there being no upset material adjacent to the
>> dimples.
>>
>> http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail/FAIL-004.html
>
>I think you're reading between the pixels. The resolution/focus of
>that picture is insufficient. The roller bearings also muddy the
>waters.
>
>R

Dear R,

I suspect that you're right--an awful lot of posts about headset
dimples talk about whether there is or isn't upset material without
anything that seems like a clear picture.

Pits could be caused by fretting (unlubricated metal-to-metal
micro-welding and ripping apart), impact (a couple of metal parts with
a tiny clearance banging together), or abrasion (balls grinding grit
against the race).

Most of the theorizing involves insisting that the other theories must
be wrong, which suggests that ego is more important than examination.

Theorizing and squabbling is much easier and much more fun than
whatever it takes to settle the question--which is trivial, but
interesting. No matter what caused the damage, the bearing has to be
replaced.

The picture of the badly worn bearing suggests that abrasion ought to
be included in the explanation, even though it's hardly ever
mentioned.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

 

[David White]

I have had very good luck on this using carbon assembly paste
<http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/product-accessories/2008-tacx-dynamic-carbon-assembly-paste-3321_52_TRUE.html>.
Even though my posts are alloy, it still does the job great.

Werehatrack wrote:
> On Mon, 07 Apr 2008 10:09:52 GMT, "Hugh Fenton"
> <[email protected]> may have said:
>
>> "Teh bike guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> This is common and easy to fix, just squirt some toothpaste (whitening
>>> formulations work best) into the headset and ride around for a few miles,
>>> it will become all smooth again, after that you can flush with water and
>>> add grease.
>>>
>>>
>> On a vaguely similar topic.........
>>
>> I've an old aluminium CADEX ALM1 where the (lubricated) seatpost keeps
>> slipping down slowly........ No, the clamp IS correctly adjusted AND the
>> seat tube isn't squeezed closed...but it still happens unless I overtension
>> the quick release (and I DO need one of these owing to the riding I do.)
>>
>> A friend suggested that valve grinding paste would solve my
>> problem.........an inert grit to prevent movement embedded in a lubricant to
>> prevent seizure......
>>
>> Comments??????
>
> My approach would not be to try that. Disturbing the surface of the
> doubtless anodized aluminum is not a good long-term plan IMO; even
> with grease present, this invites corrosion. Instead, if the seatpost
> itself is fairly stout, I'd try these:
>
> First, I would pull the post, clean it thoroughly, swab out the grease
> from the tube as much as possible, and then reinstall with a very
> light coat of old-style furniture paste wax on the post to reduce the
> siezure tendency. That stuff's not as slippery, and should be less
> likely to facilitate slippage.
>
> If that failed, assuming that the seat doesn't need to be adjusted to
> multiple heights (you didn't say; lots of people need a reliably
> removable seat post for theft reduction reasons) then I'd source a
> non-QR seat post binder clamp whose ID matched the OD of the post
> closely, and I would install that as a stop collar on the post. (Many
> of these have a lip on one edge which must be removed when employing
> them in this way; it's generally not too hard to do that.
>
> Last, I'd try dropping a wood dowel of the appropriate diameter, cut
> to the length that it acts as a stop under the post, inside the seat
> tube.
>
> Othes will have additional suggestions, I have no doubt.
>

 

[Werehatrack]

On Mon, 07 Apr 2008 10:09:52 GMT, "Hugh Fenton"
<[email protected]> may have said:

>
>"Teh bike guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> This is common and easy to fix, just squirt some toothpaste (whitening
>> formulations work best) into the headset and ride around for a few miles,
>> it will become all smooth again, after that you can flush with water and
>> add grease.
>>
>>
>
>On a vaguely similar topic.........
>
>I've an old aluminium CADEX ALM1 where the (lubricated) seatpost keeps
>slipping down slowly........ No, the clamp IS correctly adjusted AND the
>seat tube isn't squeezed closed...but it still happens unless I overtension
>the quick release (and I DO need one of these owing to the riding I do.)
>
>A friend suggested that valve grinding paste would solve my
>problem.........an inert grit to prevent movement embedded in a lubricant to
>prevent seizure......
>
>Comments??????

My approach would not be to try that. Disturbing the surface of the
doubtless anodized aluminum is not a good long-term plan IMO; even
with grease present, this invites corrosion. Instead, if the seatpost
itself is fairly stout, I'd try these:

First, I would pull the post, clean it thoroughly, swab out the grease
from the tube as much as possible, and then reinstall with a very
light coat of old-style furniture paste wax on the post to reduce the
siezure tendency. That stuff's not as slippery, and should be less
likely to facilitate slippage.

If that failed, assuming that the seat doesn't need to be adjusted to
multiple heights (you didn't say; lots of people need a reliably
removable seat post for theft reduction reasons) then I'd source a
non-QR seat post binder clamp whose ID matched the OD of the post
closely, and I would install that as a stop collar on the post. (Many
of these have a lip on one edge which must be removed when employing
them in this way; it's generally not too hard to do that.

Last, I'd try dropping a wood dowel of the appropriate diameter, cut
to the length that it acts as a stop under the post, inside the seat
tube.

Othes will have additional suggestions, I have no doubt.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

[Michael Press]

In article <[email protected]>,
"Hugh Fenton" <[email protected]> wrote:

> "Teh bike guy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > This is common and easy to fix, just squirt some toothpaste (whitening
> > formulations work best) into the headset and ride around for a few miles,
> > it will become all smooth again, after that you can flush with water and
> > add grease.
> >
> >
>
> On a vaguely similar topic.........
>
> I've an old aluminium CADEX ALM1 where the (lubricated) seatpost keeps
> slipping down slowly........ No, the clamp IS correctly adjusted AND the
> seat tube isn't squeezed closed...but it still happens unless I overtension
> the quick release (and I DO need one of these owing to the riding I do.)
>
> A friend suggested that valve grinding paste would solve my
> problem.........an inert grit to prevent movement embedded in a lubricant to
> prevent seizure......
>
> Comments??????

This is a quick release seat post clamp?

If yes, is it a cam type quick release?
If yes, replace.

If not a cam type quick release, then it
is a machined eccentric quick release.
Clean the quick release mechanism, but
not with aggressive solvent. Then put
grease on the quick release mechanism
and adjust to the greatest force you
can.

If this does not work, or otherwise,
replace with a bolt type seat post clamp.

--
Michael Press

 

[Werehatrack]

On Mon, 07 Apr 2008 13:23:51 -0700, David White
<[email protected]> may have said:

>I have had very good luck on this using carbon assembly paste
><http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/product-accessories/2008-tacx-dynamic-carbon-assembly-paste-3321_52_TRUE.html>.
>Even though my posts are alloy, it still does the job great.

Does that permit quick, easy removal and reinsertion? It would make a
difference, should the OP be someone who needs to be able to
frequently pull the seatpost quickly and reinstall it before riding,
as is often the case in areas where theft is an issue. (This wasn't
stated by the OP as a factor, but might be an issue.)

From what the item's information stated, it seems designed to reduce
siezure but maintain or increase friction; sort of an antilubricant in
one respect. This could be handy, but might not be the solution
needed in every instance.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

[Michael Press]

In article <[email protected]>,
jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:

> Michael Press wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> Michael Press wrote:
> >> <snip ****>
> >>> Let's see photographs.
> >>
> >> use google you freakin' schmuck! that's what it's there for!
> >
> > You made the claim.
> > Is this the jim beam bait and switch?
> > You cannot support your own assertions.
>
> er, i'm utterly confused as to why <http://www.google.com> shouldn't
> work for you. you clearly have network access. or are you
> participating in some kind of stupidity contest?

You seem to know what you are talking about.
You find the photographs.

--
Michael Press

 

[[email protected]]

Frank Krygowski wrote:

>> you're a blathering freakin' idiot utterly clueless of extremely
>> well and abundantly documented facts that any "engineering
>> professor" should know. all you do is shoot your mouth, completely
>> unable to add the smallest quantum of value. other than
>> entertaining with your uselessness of course. give up your day job
>> krygowski. every check you cash is the commission of fraud.

> Seems like every time I post web links that prove you're wrong, you
> lapse into another childish tantrum. We've gone through this many
> times - for example, when you claimed no bike components are
> castings.

> You tell others to do your work, use Google to find photos to prove
> you right. Why won't _you_ use Google to learn a little, before
> arguing yourself into a corner? If you didn't have to defend such
> obvious mistakes, maybe you could be more civil.

> Google "false brinell." Read a few links. Or stop in at any
> engineering library and start learning about bearings.

I think you won't achieve any change in responses. I recall when I
first approached the cause of indexed head bearings, the concept of
fretting damage was rejected as my faulty invention. I don't think
you'll get a retraction on that because it is basic to this bearing
failure. It is tribology in its most basic form and not easily
understood by conventional thinking about lubrication.

Let me repeat that the inventors of "anti-seize" lubricants understood
the concept well and such lubricants are best used in static high
pressure interfaces such as old fashioned freewheel threads. Such
lubricants contain soft metal particles that are not readily displaced
by high pressure contact with cyclic loading that causes fretting.
This might even work for head bearings although they move, unlike
tight threads, where they are most often used.

Jobst Brandt

 

[Tom Sherman]

[email protected] aka Jobst Brandt wrote:
> [...]
> Let me repeat that the inventors of "anti-seize" lubricants understood
> the concept well and such lubricants are best used in static high
> pressure interfaces such as old fashioned freewheel threads. Such
> lubricants contain soft metal particles that are not readily displaced
> by high pressure contact with cyclic loading that causes fretting.
> This might even work for head bearings although they move, unlike
> tight threads, where they are most often used.
>
What about molybdenum disulfide grease for this application?

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

 

[[email protected]]

Tom Sherman wrote:

>> [...]
>> Let me repeat that the inventors of "anti-seize" lubricants
>> understood the concept well and such lubricants are best used in
>> static high pressure interfaces such as old fashioned freewheel
>> threads. Such lubricants contain soft metal particles that are not
>> readily displaced by high pressure contact with cyclic loading that
>> causes fretting. This might even work for head bearings although
>> they move, unlike tight threads, where they are most often used.

> What about molybdenum disulfide grease for this application?

It's not an anti-seize grease. MoS2 is not a metal but it might work.
I don't know that it is effective in anti-seize applications.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

Jobst Brandt

 

[[email protected]]

On Apr 7, 9:37 pm, Tom Sherman <[email protected]>
wrote:
> [email protected] aka Jobst Brandt wrote:> [...]
> > Let me repeat that the inventors of "anti-seize" lubricants understood
> > the concept well and such lubricants are best used in static high
> > pressure interfaces such as old fashioned freewheel threads. Such
> > lubricants contain soft metal particles that are not readily displaced
> > by high pressure contact with cyclic loading that causes fretting.
> > This might even work for head bearings although they move, unlike
> > tight threads, where they are most often used.
>
> What about molybdenum disulfide grease for this application?

I once tried a moly-disulfide grease (intended for VW CV joints) in
my Cannondale's Stronglight headset. Unfortunately, in a few years,
its viscosity increased a lot, to the point where it affected
steering.

Now I'll admit, I'm not very good at periodic maintenance. That
grease was in there for, oh, at least four years, maybe much more.
And the grease was pretty stiff to begin with. Maybe I should have
repeated the experiment with thinner grease, perhaps a blend.

Hmm. A couple weeks ago I rode with a guy who said he got a jar of
moly-disulfide powder from work. Maybe I can blend my own.

But results of the experiment wouldn't be apparent for many years.
Like most bike-related problems, it's not enough of an issue to
inspire a lot of action.

- Frank Krygowski

 

[jim beam]

[email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 6, 3:56 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 21:59:23 GMT, "Williams" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>> [Note: Normally I would search the archives to find previous messages, but
>>>> the Google Advanced Groups Search no longer works. Is there another tool
>>>> for that?]
>>>> It seems that my front wheel steering has a "dead spot" such that the front
>>>> wheel wants to point straight ahead (like there is a detent). Is a headset
>>>> adjustment called for?
>>>> This is a Chris King threaded headset on a road bike.
>>>> thanks,
>>>> Craig
>>> Dear Craig,
>>> The usual fretting versus denting posts have appeared, emphasizing an
>>> either-or approach and a firm belief that no variation exists between
>>> different headsets.
>>> A few pictures for the curious . . .
>>> http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250headsetdimplesve2.jpg
>>> http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250gheadsetdimplesrb9.jpg
>>> http://i30.tinypic.com/21axwtf.jpg
>>> Cheers,
>>> Carl Fogel
>> and by far the most relevant post to ever appear on this topic:http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/7e6cb5dd3954652c
>>
>> incredible that anyone should ever have the gonads to actually /test/
>> something rather than just vocalize their ignorance.
>
> Again, necessary but not sufficient. The general conclusion of the
> test was that if headsets can be indented, softer headsets can be
> indented more easily.

indeed. by true brinelling.


> It's a pretty big leap to go from there to
> proof of indentation occurring. Softer metal wears more quickly in
> Jobst's model as well.

to a lesser extent. localized asperity welding is a function of contact
more than hardness.

 

[jim beam]

[email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:17:51 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Apr 6, 3:54 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>>> Carl Fogel wrote:
>>>
>>>> A few pictures for the curious...
>>>> http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250headsetdimplesve2.jpg
>>>> http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=250gheadsetdimplesrb9.jpg
>>>> http://i30.tinypic.com/21axwtf.jpg
>>> Unfortunately htese pictures are of lowest quality parts that do not
>>> even have a ground bearing race so the wear track, although rough, is
>>> smother than the original bearing race. This is not a good example of
>>> the condition.
>>>
>>> These pictures show a more crass wear pattern that clearly shows no
>>> Brinell indentation, there being no upset material adjacent to the
>>> dimples.
>>>
>>> http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail/FAIL-004.html
>> I think you're reading between the pixels. The resolution/focus of
>> that picture is insufficient. The roller bearings also muddy the
>> waters.
>>
>> R
>
> Dear R,
>
> I suspect that you're right--an awful lot of posts about headset
> dimples talk about whether there is or isn't upset material without
> anything that seems like a clear picture.
>
> Pits could be caused by fretting (unlubricated metal-to-metal
> micro-welding and ripping apart), impact (a couple of metal parts with
> a tiny clearance banging together), or abrasion (balls grinding grit
> against the race).
>
> Most of the theorizing involves insisting that the other theories must
> be wrong, which suggests that ego is more important than examination.
>
> Theorizing and squabbling is much easier and much more fun than
> whatever it takes to settle the question--which is trivial, but
> interesting. No matter what caused the damage, the bearing has to be
> replaced.
>
> The picture of the badly worn bearing suggests that abrasion ought to
> be included in the explanation, even though it's hardly ever
> mentioned.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Carl Fogel


that's a good point, although it typically is not associated with dimpling.

 

[jim beam]

Michael Press wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Michael Press wrote:
>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>> jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Michael Press wrote:
>>>> <snip ****>
>>>>> Let's see photographs.
>>>> use google you freakin' schmuck! that's what it's there for!
>>> You made the claim.
>>> Is this the jim beam bait and switch?
>>> You cannot support your own assertions.
>> er, i'm utterly confused as to why <http://www.google.com> shouldn't
>> work for you. you clearly have network access. or are you
>> participating in some kind of stupidity contest?
>
> You seem to know what you are talking about.
> You find the photographs.
>

/i/ don't need to find them, /i/ posted them. /you/ are the one that
needs to get of his stupid schmuck ass and click the link i gave you.

 

[jim beam]

Tom Sherman wrote:
> [email protected] aka Jobst Brandt wrote:
>> [...]
>> Let me repeat that the inventors of "anti-seize" lubricants understood
>> the concept well and such lubricants are best used in static high
>> pressure interfaces such as old fashioned freewheel threads. Such
>> lubricants contain soft metal particles that are not readily displaced
>> by high pressure contact with cyclic loading that causes fretting.
>> This might even work for head bearings although they move, unlike
>> tight threads, where they are most often used.
>>
> What about molybdenum disulfide grease for this application?
>

it has some benefit, but as i said earlier, greases containing calcium
sulfonate are shown to be better. it has better surface adsorption and
thus interferes better with the oxidation mechanism that contributes to
false brinelling.