Headset facing steel frame.

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by tk49, May 17, 2008.

  1. tk49

    tk49 New Member

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    I need some help.

    My 45 degree bearingseats of my headset is not flat anymore.
    I can press the cartridge bearings up and down with my fngers so the conclusion is pretty easy it needs a refacing.

    Now does anybody know someone who has this tool (must be EU) AND have the skill in handling this tricky job.

    On my bearings it has the following info.

    41.8 x 30.5
    45 x 45 degree

    The headset is a IS system and the bearings run straight in the head of the steel frame.

    Also if anybody has a good alternative besides buying a new frrame than share this with me.

    One tip i got was to glue the bearings in.
    Anybody got some experiences with that.
    It sounds like a good option next to the facing.
     
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  2. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    FWIW. Re-facing the headtube is probably the LAST thing you want to do ...

    How did this happen?!?

    Was the stem not secured properly on the headtube?!?

    Is the headtube ovalized?!?

    Is the current headset one of those CAMPY 1" integrated headsets (circa 2000)?!?

    Are you sure there is actually a problem with the cartridge & headtube?

    If it is a Campy 1" integrated headset (and, probably applicable to some others), then the two halves of the cartridges can be opened & the bearings re-greased OR the bearings replaced & repacked -- the bearings are LOOSE and held in place by the shell of the cartridge so if you do want to open it, do so with CAUTION!

    ARE YOU FORGETTING THE PLASTIC CONE which centers the steerer in the cartridge bearing & ensures the bearing is securely seated?!?

    Okay, if you really want to TRY to "glue" your bearing into the headtube (no more recommended than re-facing your headdtube!) you should be aware that you need to EITHER make it NON-permanent AND/OR reversible ...
    • If you want something that is NON-permanent, then you would actually use something PERMANENT like JB WELD ... but, this requires that you are HANDY and that this is not your first attempt at a manual task!
    • Clean the headtube of any-and-all grease. Wipe out with rubbing alcohol or acetone ... Allow to dry.
    • Mix up enough JB WELD (no substitutions on this!) to liberally coat the inside of the existing bearing seat & side of the headtube which is in proximity of the bearing cartridge ...
    • Sprinkle some talc onto the JB WELD'd tube ... the talc is a "releasing agent." Lightly grease the outside of the cartridge bearing & put it in place ...
    • Assemble the frame/fork/headset/spacers/stem/top-cap ... GREASE the underside of the UPPER SHELL & anything which might come in contact with the JB WELD, too! Ensure that nothing binds!
    Set aside for about 24 hours.

    OPTIONAL. After 24 hours, disassemble the fork from the frame. TAP the bearing out of the headtube. CLEAN & GREASE, again ... reassemble.

    By reversible, you would seat the bearing with a "glue" that can be peeled/scraped off -- e.g., tub-and-tile caulk. The tub-and-tile-caulk will harden to some extent, but not be as stiff as an epoxy.

    If you "glue" the bearing cartridge in place with tub-and-tile-caulk, you can tap (some extraordinary FORCE might be required due to the adhesion!) the bearings out & scrape away the caulk in the future.

    The process would be the same as with the JB WELD except you would not disassemble the components to regrease UNLESS you failed to grease the components liberally enough to preclude adhesion OR binding.

    If you need to remove the caulk in the future, then you can probably use a propane torch to "age" the caulk.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
  3. tk49

    tk49 New Member

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    Thanks it's appreciated :D

     
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