Headset/Stem rings...



hd reynolds said:
That is where the argument is. You and ALF say no mechanical purpose after stem is tightened. I say this is wrong assumption. If you dont get this then try removing it and riding your bike like usual as i've suggested. Then YOU and this ALF guy will find out that this is not so.

The top cap is not just a cosmetic device. The Ahead stem set up (from the top cap to the star nut to the stem to the steerer etc.) is the sum of all its parts to work mechanically sound.
I, too, am intrigued. Just what does the top cap do after the stem bolts have been tightened? Other than preventing the core sampling of one's brain?
 
artemidorus said:
...Other than preventing the core sampling of one's brain?
And only if you have inches of steerer poking through...

I adjusted my stem to be under a few of the sizing rings to lower the bars about 10mm. I tightened the cap and then the stem. I then took the pressure off the cap and placed moderate pressure back on it...

Would love a set of torque settings for bike nuts n bolts...
 
fauxpas said:
And only if you have inches of steerer poking through...

I adjusted my stem to be under a few of the sizing rings to lower the bars about 10mm. I tightened the cap and then the stem. I then took the pressure off the cap and placed moderate pressure back on it...

Would love a set of torque settings for bike nuts n bolts...
Right, that's how it should be done. It is an added support (not for cosmetic reasons) to the stem that locks the threadless headset in place... specially impt. to a CF steerer where one should be careful in placing torque to the stem bolts as well as CF being much more prone to slippage compared to other material used for fork steerers.
 
the internal type headset bearing preload device can most certainly be removed after the headset is preloaded and the stem is tightened. after that point it serves as merely a secondary means of securing things...in the unlikely event the stem comes loose on the fork's steere tube (in which case your lack of steering problem might just be more critical than the above debate!).

my last bike came with an external type, rotating stepped wedge-ring device that preloaded the headset bearings by pushing up on the tightened stem from underneath. a simple push-in decorative cap ("easton" marked, in this case filled the hole in the top of the stem/steerer tube.

i replaced that wedge ring simply because the internal type looks less cluttered. the external ring was actually easier to adjust and fully collapsed took up the same 10mm stack height as a carbon fibre washer.
 
alfeng said:
WOW! If you aren't drinking, what are you smoking? Your reading comprehension is REALLY LOW at the present moment ...

"once in place" & "after ... " mean the same thing ... POST-installation.

No contradiction on my part ... but, in YOUR mind, something weird is apparently going on!

OR, do you think that because I continue to have top caps installed on my bikes that I am contradicting my observation that there is no mechanical advantage AFTER the fork is properly installed?
I've got an Ouzo Pro fork. Would agree that the top cap on this one isn't doing anything much after it's used to preload the bearings and the stem is clamped down on the steertube. Like you, I've observed that the top can be unscrewed easily and removed after the stem is properly tightened.

But I also keep mine in place, per the installation instructions. On safety-critical parts like this, really think it's best to follow the manufacturer's installations to the letter. In a critical-load situation (eg, crash), I'm unwilling to assume that the cap doesn't provide any additional strength or support to prevent steertube failure.