Help buying a commuter/touring/racing bike.

[fcbtf]

[SIZE= 12pt]Help me find a bike that’s right for me. I just started getting into riding last year. I was 285 lbs and wanted to lose weight, so I started commuting to work, 20 miles a day. I dropped to 203 lbs, and I am addicted to cycling. I Started out on a mountain bike with skinny tires then bought a used [COLOR= rgb(34, 34, 34)]Schwinn[/COLOR] road bike for $100. I’m ready to upgrade. What I’m looking for is a bike I can 1. Commute to work and 2. Do some racing. Around $1500 or less.[/SIZE]
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[SIZE= 12pt]1. I still want to commute to work and back. I live in Utah so weather is an issue during the winter; this means I need to be able to add bigger tires and fenders during the snowy season. Option for a rack is desirable, I have to haul a lot to work and back so I use panniers and need a durable frame . I would like some touring like tires to help with the rough roads. (I’m sick of broken spokes.) I do a steep climb so a lower gear would be nice. Every once in a while I would like to do a 2-3 day light tour as well. [/SIZE]
[SIZE= 12pt]2. I love the road bike. On the weekends, I would like to take off the commuter tires and rack, throw on some slicks and do a 50-200+ mile ride. Plus I want to start entering some races. So a light weight bike with higher gearing is desirable for this. [/SIZE]
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[SIZE= 12pt]Any ideas?[/SIZE]

 

[vspa]

you are going to get tired of putting the fenders and rack in and out every week, i suggest that you keep your current commuter, which have serve you so well, and buy a road bike instead, keep both of them,

 

[mpre53]

Originally Posted by vspa .

you are going to get tired of putting the fenders and rack in and out every week, i suggest that you keep your current commuter, which have serve you so well, and buy a road bike instead, keep both of them,

Agree 100%. Keep the Schwinn for commuting, and look for a better than entry level aluminum road bike. Something like a Madone 2.3, CAAD 10, Allez with the lighter E5 frame, or something from another brand with a mostly 105 drivetrain, and decent wheels. You may have to spend another $100 or so over your target. At that price point, a better aluminum frame will come with better components than entry level carbon. Plus, crashing is part of racing, and aluminum may be a little more resistant to crash damage. May be. Not a given.