help identify chain rings please



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Michael Green

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My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano) on
rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a smooth
ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is Dawes Comp. Giro
200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed. Thanks.
 
> My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano) on
> rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a smooth
> ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is Dawes Comp.
> Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed. Thanks.

Do you mean 13-14 years old, not 3-4? If the exage equipment is original, that bike is more than 10
years old. Sounds like all Exage equipment, but not sure of the bolt pattern for the chainrings.
Just bring them in to your local shop, they'll quite possibly have something in stock that fits.
Since it's downtube shifting, you don't need really fancy chainrings up front, so they shouldn't be
too expensive. Aftermarket versions will do just fine.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReaction.com
 
"Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano) on
> rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a smooth
> ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is Dawes Comp.
> Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.

Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped on the inside of the right arm
and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or FC-MC20. Shimano is rigorously thorough with this nice
thoughtful feature.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
 
"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano) on
> > rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a
> > smooth ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is Dawes
> > Comp. Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.
>
> Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped on the inside of the right arm
> and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or FC-MC20. Shimano is rigorously thorough with this nice
> thoughtful feature.

It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from Dawes dealer.
 
> It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from Dawes
dealer.

Very interesting. Exage hasn't been around for years (unless it's something they sell in the UK and
not in the US?). How many cogs in the rear?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

"Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano)
> > > on rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a
> > > smooth ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is
> > > Dawes Comp. Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.
> >
> > Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped on
the
> > inside of the right arm and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or FC-MC20. Shimano is rigorously
> > thorough with this nice thoughtful feature.
>
> It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from Dawes
dealer.
 
I don't think it makes much diference. To find a replacement, you can measure the bolt hole
diameter, the number of holes, number of teeth, and the position if sits in the crankset. Any good
bike shop can get a replacement. Or just take it to the LBS, they probably have it in stock.

Wynn

[email protected] (Michael Green) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano)
> > > on rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a
> > > smooth ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is
> > > Dawes Comp. Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.
> >
> > Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped on the inside of the right
> > arm and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or FC-MC20. Shimano is rigorously thorough with this
> > nice thoughtful feature.
>
> It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from Dawes dealer.
 
Michael Green wrote:
> My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano) on
> rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a smooth
> ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is Dawes Comp.
> Giro 200 3-4 years old.

If I wanted to replace rings on that, I would wok out the BCD* then try Stronglight rings
or similar.
* See: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html

According to the catalogue, the 1999 Dawes Giro 200 has a "Shimano TY30A Megarange 28-38-48 170mm
crankset with guard" (and Exage brakes).

As replacement rings are never cheap (when you have to buy all three), and it's a naff looking
crankset anyway, what about replacing the whole thing? The crankset, I mean, not the bike!

Have a browse through: http://www.settlecycles.co.uk/shop/ (best UK place for most chainrings, btw)
and http://www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm

Would need to make sure it's compatible with the (Shimano) bottom bracket.

~PB
 
> > "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than Shimano)
> > > on rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a
> > > smooth ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting 'bitten'. Bike is
> > > Dawes Comp. Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.

> "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped on
the
> > inside of the right arm and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or FC-MC20. Shimano is rigorously
> > thorough with this nice thoughtful feature.

"Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from Dawes
dealer.

That makes it easy!

The Tourney crank you have is rivetted together and so none of the chainrings can be removed or
changed. When you say"knackered" are you referring to the several teeth which are truncated and the
slots and folds just beneath the teeth which look like a metal eating monster has chewed it? That's
not a problem, it's a feature! Those things assist shifting. Stop at an LBS and peek at a similarly
priced new bicycle's chainrings before you pursue this any further.

We get telephone calls from week-old bicycle customers in a panic over those slots and folds.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
 
"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > > "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple, no name (other than
> > > > Shimano) on rings. Bike has Exage brakes, downtube levers are marked SIS. The only unusual
> > > > feature is a smooth ring outside the large ring to prevent your leg coverings getting
> > > > 'bitten'. Bike is Dawes Comp. Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.
>
> > "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped on
> the
> > > inside of the right arm and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or FC-MC20. Shimano is rigorously
> > > thorough with this nice thoughtful feature.
>
>
> "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from Dawes
> dealer.
>
> That makes it easy!
>
> The Tourney crank you have is rivetted together and so none of the chainrings can be removed or
> changed. When you say"knackered" are you referring to the several teeth which are truncated and
> the slots and folds just beneath the teeth which look like a metal eating monster has chewed it?
> That's not a problem, it's a feature! Those things assist shifting. Stop at an LBS and peek at a
> similarly priced new bicycle's chainrings before you pursue this any further.
>
> We get telephone calls from week-old bicycle customers in a panic over those slots and folds.

They are knackered, the pressure side of the teeth are very rounded, particularly on the
granny ring.

Rivetted eh? And here was me thinking the bolts were just diguised by the crud. Advice on
replacement please! Thanks.
 
Michael Green wrote:
> They are knackered, the pressure side of the teeth are very rounded, particularly on the
> granny ring.

Worn chainring teeth usually look pointy or shark-like, not rounded.

Does the chain skip?

~PB
 
> They are knackered, the pressure side of the teeth are very rounded, particularly on the
> granny ring.

Just to make sure, check out the chainring photos on this page-

http://www.ChainReaction.com/chainrings.htm

We get so many customers thinking their chainrings are defective on new bikes, we finally put up
some photos showing what new chainrings actually look like. But since your bike is 3-4 years old,
well, it would be unusual for them to be worn, but not impossible. In general, if you replace your
chain when needed, chainrings will typically deliver between 8-15,000 miles of life before having to
be replaced (higher quality chainrings may last longer, especially with proper drivetrain
maintenance).

As others have pointed out, your chainrings are riveted together, so you need to replace the entire
assembly on that side. They're not all that expensive (typically less than the cost of three
chainrings), but it's also an opportunity to upgrade to something different (with removable
chainrings). Sometimes shops will have something decent & cheap that came off a new bike where a
customer wanted something different. Just make sure you get an appropriate crank length.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
 
"Pete Biggs" <pLime{remove_fruit}@biggs.tc> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> Michael Green wrote:
> > They are knackered, the pressure side of the teeth are very rounded, particularly on the
> > granny ring.
>
> Worn chainring teeth usually look pointy or shark-like, not rounded.
>
> Does the chain skip?
>
> ~PB

Bad choice of words, the teeth do indeed look sharp and sharklike, and yes chain skips under
pressure on the small.
 
> > > > "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > > My chainrings are knackered. But what are they? Shimano, triple,
no
> > > > > name (other than Shimano) on rings. Bike has Exage brakes,
downtube
> > > > > levers are marked SIS. The only unusual feature is a smooth ring outside the large ring to
> > > > > prevent your leg coverings getting
'bitten'.
> > > > > Bike is Dawes Comp. Giro 200 3-4 years old. Any help or advice welcomed.

> > > "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:<[email protected]>...
> > > > Please write back with the Shimano crank part number. It's stamped
on
> > the
> > > > inside of the right arm and begins with FC, such as FC-M480 or
FC-MC20.
> > > > Shimano is rigorously thorough with this nice thoughtful feature.

> > "Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > It looks like FG TY30. And yes 3-4 years old. Bought new by me from
Dawes
> > dealer.

> "A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > That makes it easy!

> > The Tourney crank you have is rivetted together and so none of the chainrings can be removed or
> > changed. When you say"knackered" are you referring to the several teeth which are truncated and
> > the slots and
folds
> > just beneath the teeth which look like a metal eating monster has chewed
it?
> > That's not a problem, it's a feature! Those things assist shifting.
Stop
> > at an LBS and peek at a similarly priced new bicycle's chainrings before
you
> > pursue this any further.
> >
> > We get telephone calls from week-old bicycle customers in a panic over
those
> > slots and folds.

"Michael Green" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> They are knackered, the pressure side of the teeth are very rounded, particularly on the
> granny ring.
>
> Rivetted eh? And here was me thinking the bolts were just diguised by the crud. Advice on
> replacement please! Thanks.

In that case you'll need to buy a complete crank, often the same price for a right side as for the
whole complete set. Here, that type of unit is $35~$40 complete - less than buying chainrings!

If you intend to keep the bicycle a long while, if there are no impending major repairs and if you
think you'll want custom gearing now or in the future, you might look at a more expensive crank that
allows individual ring substitution. It's likely you'll have to change to a shorter crank bearing
spindle ( "bottom bracket" assembly) so the entire operation will be quite a bit more at minimum.

If you have no other complaints than the "knackered" ( quite a colorful word!) damage, just get the
current model of your Tourney crank. Any LBS should have it and expect a five minute installation.

--
Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
 
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