Help identify older brake setup on Gary Fisher MTB



Q

quemazon

Guest
I've recently been building up a commuter bike from an old Gary Fisher
mountain bike frame (1990 or earlier, I'm guessing). When it came time
to put the rear brakes on, I noticed that the brazeons were about an
inch higher up on the rear triangle than they should be. All
cantilever and v-brake designs I've seen need the brazeon to be about
one inch below the rim (assuming 26" wheels), but in this case the
brazeons are almost exactly in line with the rim. Does anyone have an
idea as to what kind of brakes I need to be looking for? I looked at
the U-brake/BMX type, but they need the brazeons to be above the rim.
Thanks for your help.
 
Maybe they're cantilever posts for an early 29'er :) Or U-brake/rollercam posts for a 24" wheel?

http://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html
 
[email protected] (quemazon) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I've recently been building up a commuter bike from an old Gary Fisher
> mountain bike frame (1990 or earlier, I'm guessing). When it came time
> to put the rear brakes on, I noticed that the brazeons were about an
> inch higher up on the rear triangle than they should be.

<snip>

*Which* Gary Fisher frame do you have? I seem to recall that there
were some Fisher hybrid bikes from that era with quite generous
clearances. The brake boss location seems to indicate 700C wheels.

Jeff
 
On 13 Sep 2004 15:15:21 -0700, [email protected] (quemazon) wrote:

>I've recently been building up a commuter bike from an old Gary Fisher
>mountain bike frame (1990 or earlier, I'm guessing). When it came time
>to put the rear brakes on, I noticed that the brazeons were about an
>inch higher up on the rear triangle than they should be. All
>cantilever and v-brake designs I've seen need the brazeon to be about
>one inch below the rim (assuming 26" wheels), but in this case the
>brazeons are almost exactly in line with the rim. Does anyone have an
>idea as to what kind of brakes I need to be looking for? I looked at
>the U-brake/BMX type, but they need the brazeons to be above the rim.
>Thanks for your help.


It sounds like what you've got is a frame that was built for 700C
wheels, or a 26"-wheel frame and a 24" wheel. How much forward
clearance is present in front of the wheel at the chainstays? That
might provide a clue.
--
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Some gardening required to reply via email.
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quemazon wrote:

> I've recently been building up a commuter bike from an old Gary Fisher
> mountain bike frame (1990 or earlier, I'm guessing). When it came time
> to put the rear brakes on, I noticed that the brazeons were about an
> inch higher up on the rear triangle than they should be. All
> cantilever and v-brake designs I've seen need the brazeon to be about
> one inch below the rim (assuming 26" wheels), but in this case the
> brazeons are almost exactly in line with the rim. Does anyone have an
> idea as to what kind of brakes I need to be looking for? I looked at
> the U-brake/BMX type, but they need the brazeons to be above the rim.
> Thanks for your help.

Most probably for a U-Brake, also called an A-Brake. If the
post is a larger diameter than a cantilever/VBrake post.

Or intended for a 7000C wheel. Fisher?? Or a 700-D wheel!

Or even a brazed mount for a centerpull caliper (on a
custom frame).

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 
A Muzi wrote:

> Most probably for a U-Brake, also called an A-Brake. If the post is a
> larger diameter than a cantilever/VBrake post.


If it's a really, really old frame, it could be for a WTB/Suntour
rollercam brake. The bosses will be outboard of the stays if this is
the case.
 
Thanks, everyone, for the input on this. The frame is a GF Farallon
and it turns out that it is indeed set up for a 700c on the rear.
Strangely, the fork, which appears to be original, is set up for a 26"
wheel.
 
[email protected] (quemazon) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Thanks, everyone, for the input on this. The frame is a GF Farallon
> and it turns out that it is indeed set up for a 700c on the rear.
> Strangely, the fork, which appears to be original, is set up for a 26"
> wheel.


Strange- how does it "appear" to be original? Same color? And is it a
1 1/4" or 1 1/8" headset?

Given that forks are pretty easy to swap, I'd say that you've got a
Frankenstein ( http://new.wavlist.com/movies/007/yf-damuris.wav )on
your hands. Not to worry- with the right rear wheel, I'm sure it'll be
just fine.

(Yeah, like I'm a great authority- I once built a bike with 26" ATB
wheels, a frame meant for 27" wheels and a 24" "lightweight" fork.
Everything fit! And it was rideable! Despite a near-vertical headtube
and no pedal clearance, I rode that thing until it was stolen. I pity
the thief.)

Jeff