Help identifying Peugeot model so I can fix it up.

Discussion in 'Road Cycling' started by Jesterer, Oct 20, 2014.

  1. Jesterer

    Jesterer New Member

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    I picked up a Peugeot off of Craigslist recently with the hope of fixing it up for my wife. This will be my first rebuild. It looks to be in decent shape, but I already know some of the parts will need to be replaced. I want to know more about it so I have a better idea about what I will need to fix and potential problems. I would also appreciate any suggestions for replacement parts. According to the web, it looks to be around a 77-78 model, nothing high end it seems, but I haven't found any pictures online that look exactly like it.

    Frame 1
    Frame 2
    Rear Derailer
    Front Derailer
    Breaks
    Shifter
    Downtube
    Fork
    Pedal
    Stem of death
    Badge
    Numbers
    Rim
    Quick release
    Chain stays damage? 1
    Chain stays damage? 2
    Chain stays damage? 3

    The chain stays have an area underneath where the paint has been worn off. The tubes also look a bit crimped. It's the crimping that worries me. I'm not sure if the tubes came that way or if the bike had an unfortunate encounter with a clamp at some point and if that would be a deal breaker.

    The front derailer needs to be replaced, as the plastic has cracked.

    I hear a lot about how cheap the rear simplex derailers are, but I also hear they get the job done and don't self destruct too often.

    The seat is not original, but it is torn up and needs to be replaced.

    I read that there doesn't seem to be an adapter to turn the BB in to a 3 piece for the french bikes, so replacing and repacking the bearings looks like the only option.

    I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?

    Replacing the break pads is obvious, but is it recommended to upgrade them? My wife likes the suicide handles and I would like to make them safer to use without spending a bunch of money and dealing with the difference in french tubing sizes.

    Thoughts?
     
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  2. oldbobcat

    oldbobcat Well-Known Member

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    You have a UO-8, possibly all original, late 70s vintage. Before the rise of Asian imports, this was the standard "campus 10-speed" of the bike boom, and a favored ride for American Youth Hostel types, especially at the beginning of the decade. Towards the end, concessions to more casual riders (stem mounted shifters, brake lever extensions, chainring chain guards, loss of the quick release on the rear hub, and plastic saddles with cheap padding and covers that ripped off) and price point (cheap pedals that wouldn't take toeclips) compelled the more serious types to look elsewhere.

    The crimps you're seeing in the chain stays are probably the ones manufactured in so they tires and chain rings would clear. Don't worry. One feature of these frames is seamed tubes. If you run your finger along the back edge of the fork blades and the undersides of the chain and seat stays, you can feel the seam. You'll also see it on the inside of the head tube. Don't worry, this frame will hold up to anything your wife can dish out.

    Anyway, I can't see how bad the front derailleur is, so I'll take your word for it. Replacements are cheap, and since you're using the original friction shifters you don't have to worry about compatibility. Just be sure it's a road unit for double chainrings, the cable pulls from the bottom, the clamp fits your frame, and it's made for 5-, 6-, 7-, or 8-speed chains. While we're here, you should replace the chain. New 8-speed chains will work fine and are widely available.

    A good thing about plastic Simplex rear derailleurs is they broke before they bent. Just clean and lube the bushings and moving parts with light oil. If you remove this unit from the bike, detach the hanger from the frame, don't detach the derailleur from the hanger. You'll spend hours trying to get the spring back in there and working properly.

    Replace cables and housings. The brake pads are probably petrified, so replace those with post-mount pads that are made for cantilever brakes. Replace tires and tubes, 27 x 1-1/4", not 700c.

    I'm not crazy about the suicide brake levers, but if they still work I won't argue with your wife. If they don't, I recommend getting inexpensive drop-bar levers that route the cable under the bar tape and pairing them with cyclocross auxiliary levers. New levers will work and feel better, period.

    Regarding the stem . . I had too look up "death stem," because while I was aware of the Pivo death stem, the ATAC and ATAX varieties were news to me. Sorry, but by the time these babies came out I was in the rarified air of Cinelli and 3T. Yeah, replace this thing before someone gets hurt.

    There are quill adapters for 22.2, 25.4, and 21.5 mm. I'm not finding anything for 22.0. I did find this GB 22.0 x 25.4 x 70 mm stem on eBay, though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GB-FORGED-ALLOY-BICYCLE-70-MM-REACH-22-0-STEM-25-4-BINDER-CLAMP-/161445578684?pt=US_Stems&hash=item2596e807bc. GB is a British company, stands for founder Gerry Burgess, and I've heard Gerry's son Jeremy is reviving the brand. These used to be standard on all the Raleighs up to the International (with 22.2 mm quill). Lots of guys raced with GB bars and stems, and I never heard of one breaking.

    Of course, on any bike this old I'd overhaul the headset, bottom bracket, and hubs. You will need crank cotters if you damage the old ones trying to remove them. Keep them so your local shop can match the size. They will likely need to be ordered. Also, Niagara Cycles has 9.5 mm cotters in stock (http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/9-5mm-medium-bevel-crank-cotter-pin-bag-of-10).

    Does this give you some ideas on where to start?
     
  3. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Good post, OBC.

    It's probably a UO-8, but it may be an AO-8 model. There was also the less often sold AE-8, UE-8 series and UO-18 line of models to consider. Often, the least expensive method of repairing and rebuilding such an obsolete bike is to buy one or two more of them for parts or to score one in much better condition and keep the abused and aged one for a parts resource.

    Peugeot UO-8's and AO-8's are getting a bit difficult to find in my area, but they are by no means rare. Along with Schwinn's and Raleigh's and Motobecane's and Gitane's, the lesser Peugeots were the mainstays of high schools, prep schools, colleges and young urban hippies from about 1972 to 1982.

    Compare what you have to catalog pictures and specifications here: http://cyclespeugeot.com/Catalogs.html
     
  4. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    FWIW. I'm a big fan of vintage French bicycle frames ...
    • In fact, for a while I was looking for a vintage, mid-to-low-range Peugeot similar to the one which you have! What was I thinking?!? BTW. I
     
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