Help Me Understand The $100 Dollar Word - "Sport"

[Trighap]

Howdy folks. I am a complete newb, no denial of that here. But I went to a bike store and was strongly advised to get a Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29. I loved it during my short test ride, so smooth and strong. I left the store and check it online for reviews and such, and like what I see. But there's also the Specialized Hardrock Disc 29 (the non-sport version) which cost 100 dollars less but also seems to be well reviewed... I can't see WHY there is a price difference though, the stats seem the same to my newb eyes. Can anyone advise me as to whether the Sport version is a necessary purchase for an overweight male who is purchasing a bike for a commute over basically normal roads, or would the non-sport be sufficient? Thanks to any who reply. 8^)

 

[alienator]

The biggest differences are a mechanical lockout for the front forks on the Sport; hydraulic disc brakes on the sport; and a bit higher spec derailleurs. The sport might actually offer the best bang for the buck, but if $100 makes it too much, not buying the Sport won't be the biggest loss in the world, especially as you're using the bike for commuting. I'll add, however, that unless the roads you'll be riding are cratered like the streets in a bombed out village, having suspension on a commuter bike is a bit of a waste. You might want to consider a bike like one of the Sirrus line (like the Sirrus Sport). I would also suggest considering other brands and their similar models, like perhaps the 7.2 FX disc or 7.4 FX disc from Trek. Virtually every brand has a version of such bikes. I'd also suggest getting test rides on some bikes. A bike shop doesn't deserve your money if they won't allow you to take test rides. Other brands you might consider (and this list certainly isn't exhaustive) include Giant, Raleigh, Jamis, Felt....

 

[CAMPYBOB]

"Can anyone advise me as to whether the Sport version is a necessary purchase for an overweight male who is purchasing a bike for a commute over basically normal roads, or would the non-sport be sufficient?"

You will not need the suspension fork when riding on "basically normal roads". The lockout will come in handy for those times you are not in need of the suspension component of the bike. 29" x 2.0" tires offer plenty of soft riding as is.

Was there a reason given as to why you were advised to ride a suspension fork bike for a road commute?

 

[mpre53]

As a general rule, Specialized uses "Sport" across their product line to designate a particular spec'd bike. Usually the second model from the bottom of the model line. There's the base model, then Sport>Comp>Expert, and maybe some intermediate trim levels between the basic groups depending on the model. Most of the differences are in the drive components. In their road line, for example, going from the base Allez to the Sport, you get a 9 speed Sora group instead of an 8 speed Claris, and a carbon fork instead of aluminum. 8 vs 9 speeds isn't a big deal. The fork can be. Same with your choices here. Acera is higher in Shimano's MTB group line-up than Altus.

 

[Trighap]

Okay... Okay, it's a little clearer what the difference is... Not sure how I feel about the difference though. First, in response to the question asked about why they recommended the suspension, I think it was because I was very adament about my heavy weight and wanting a bike that would not suffer from it. I don't want to buy a bike and break it in six months because I weight 300 pounds and have the grace of a bull in a china shop. I can't swerve around a pothole, I'd fall from lack of balance. So I'm more of an M-1A1 Abrams ramming through it.

If anyone wants to put their 2 cents in, please tell me if you think the sports version is worth the 100 for the long run life of a bike, for the above abusive rider. I will add that I may use this as excercise and commuting, but I don';t think I will ever be a bike lover and thus probably won't modify it like it seems everyone on "cycling forums" seems to be doing. Thanks you to the three who have already replied, and to any others who shall reply later. 8^)

 

[alienator]

I'd say the majority of the bikes in the category under discussion here, will hold up just fine under a 300lb load even if they don't have suspension. On regular roads, I don't see your weight as a factor that necessitates suspension on the front of the bike or the rear, for that matter.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

"I weight 300 pounds and have the grace of a bull in a china shop."

Heavy riders and poor roads make for a combination that is hard on wheels. I can see the front fork assisting in keeping that wheel alive. You may want to consider a spring-loaded seat post to attenuate shock loading on the rear wheel.

Congrats on getting involved with cycling, no matter what model you end up with. Enjoy the ride!

 

[oldbobcat]

Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB
Heavy riders and poor roads make for a combination that is hard on wheels. I can see the front fork assisting in keeping that wheel alive. You may want to consider a spring-loaded seat post to attenuate shock loading on the rear wheel.

I see your point, but on the other hand most of the damage to wheels by heavy riders that I've seen happens to the rear wheel.

As a matter of principle, if you're going to ride on the road, I tend to advocate performance road hybrids such as the Sirrus and Trek's FX. In your case I'd say find the one with the most rugged wheels (I like the 7.3 FX for this), equip it with the fattest (42-45mm) most rugged tires the rims can safely mount, and have at it.

But either way you're looking at good bikes.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

"I see your point, but on the other hand most of the damage to wheels by heavy riders that I've seen happens to the rear wheel."

Agreed.

That's why I suggested one of those shock absorbing seatposts. A full suspension bike is always an option for riders at the weightier end of the spectrum. I also agree with your recommendation for larger tires if going with the Sirrus/FX type of bike.

 

[mpre53]

Several years ago I had a entry level GT with absolutely **** wheels---Jalco 2000s IIRC. At 155-160 lbs, I killed the rear wheel in under 4000 miles. Hopefully, even basic house brand Bontrager and Axis wheels are better than that garbage. I mean, I'm 6'2". I'm a freaking beanpole. I shouldn't have killed any decent rim, even an entry level one, that soon.

Standing when a big bump is coming up, assuming it's seen ahead of time, might help to get some more use out of entry level wheels, if he doesn't want to buy a shock absorbing post or consider a bike with a rear suspension.

 

[oldbobcat]

Originally Posted by CAMPYBOB
"I see your point, but on the other hand most of the damage to wheels by heavy riders that I've seen happens to the rear wheel."

Agreed.

That's why I suggested one of those shock absorbing seatposts. A full suspension bike is always an option for riders at the weightier end of the spectrum. I also agree with your recommendation for larger tires if going with the Sirrus/FX type of bike.

The seatpost could help. Didn't mean to come off so snippy.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

"Didn't mean to come off so snippy."

No worries. You didn't.

Maybe it's time someone clears up the bicycle industry's long secret code for pricepoint/ad copy.

As the OP found out, "Sport" adds $100.

"City" adds $100.
"Hybrid" adds $200.
"Multi-Purpose" adds $100.
"Trail" adds $300.
"Tri" adds $500.
"Recreation" or "Fitness" only adds $50.
"Singletrack" adds $200.
"Touring" adds $500.
"Comfort" adds $200.
"Mountain" adds $500.

And the word "Race" adds whatever can be rationalized by the twenty paragraphs of glowing hyperbole that follows the basic description.

Feel free to add to the list.

 

[Trighap]

Thank you for the additional comments. I think I will go ahead and get a Specialized Rockhard Disk 29er, as opposed to the Sport. This is the result of the comments above. I don't anticipate needing to lock a suspension, and the Disk comes with suspension so it should work for heavy ol' me. I will keep in mind the seat suspension idea, but for now I am going to skip any modifications because I still need to purchase the safety equipments (helmet, hi-vis clothing, mirror) and spare tire tube, etc... And I'm a poor person so modifications must wait until I win the lottery. 8^) Thanks again folks.

 

[oldbobcat]

Can't go wrong with a Specialized Rockhard. It is best in class for entry level mountain bikes.