Help! New bike-rust inside frame?

[zebrabike]

I just got a new Lemond Filmore a few weeks ago and rode it once in light rain. Yesterday I was adjusting the seat higher and noticed a fine rust-colored dust on the seatpost when I pulled it out. Is this a problem? What should I do??

It is a chro-moly steel frame with a carbon seatpost. I've read all the relevant threads about maintenance of steel frames to prevent rust but want to make sure if this rust-dust already indicates a problem.

Your advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[jrdspaul]

I just got a new Lemond Filmore a few weeks ago and rode it once in light rain. Yesterday I was adjusting the seat higher and noticed a fine rust-colored dust on the seatpost when I pulled it out. Is this a problem? What should I do??

It is a chro-moly steel frame with a carbon seatpost. I've read all the relevant threads about maintenance of steel frames to prevent rust but want to make sure if this rust-dust already indicates a problem.

Your advice is greatly appreciated.

I would talk to the shop where you purchased the bike. I had a lemond zurich for less than a year, and it developed lots of rust. I took it back to the LBS and lemond replaced the frame. However; the new frame is rusting. I love the ride of the steel lemond, but i'm not happy with the rust. I have a ten year old schwinn that gets much abuse, and it has less rust than the lemond.

 

[zebrabike]

thanks for responding! it's useful to know that you've also had a problem with these steel lemonds, and good to know that they at least replaced it. i'll ask down at the shop and also pick up some of that frame saver stuff i've seen recommended on the forums. good luck with your second frame!

 

[Conniebiker]

I have had several Cromoly frames(Giant and Trek) and they are almost 17 yrs and counting with no rust to speak of. I was initially concerned since I am a XC racer on the east coast(spelled WET) and I used to live on a salt-air tropical island. Anymore I use Extend and LPS-3 liberally. Wax the paint, coat the inside. LPS is a boat grade preventive coating that goes on like oil and stays like gel. Available in spray cans with straws(like WD). Extend has a sqirty bottle or brush, and is used to inert active rust(won't bond to plain metal). Once treated the rust/extend combo becomes a hard surface coating that will not rust further.
So, the usual mode for me is to slosh some extend around the insides, let it sit. Then spray some LPS inside to keep it all lubed up. Good to go.

 

[zebrabike]

Thanks for the tips, Conniebiker. I couldn't find the LPS-3 you mentioned but I did find Extend and all the other rust-prevention products that have been recommended on here. I ended up getting some Naval Jelly to take off the small amount of rust at the seatpost opening (worked like a charm) and sprayed Loctite Rust Preventer everywhere inside.

How often do you redo the treatment? 6 months? Once a year?

The LBS suggested throwing a packet of silica gel down in there, you know those little white Do Not Eat packets in food packages. And also to dump out the water and let it air out after wet rides.

 

[Conniebiker]

How often you should repeat depends on the treatment used. If it is LPS or any of the non-hardening varieties then a year is reasonable. Extend is a once and done thing usually, but repetition would not hurt.
On my Giant frame I had to create a drain hole in the bottom bracket shell. The shell was enclosed originally and the first time I took the bb out it was about a pint full. To fix that I poured a lot of WD(water-dispersant)-40 into it and left it in the hot sunlight for a couple days. After that, I drilled a 1/8 hole in the lowest part of the shell and coated the frame innerds with Extend. With the bb out is the easiest way to gain access to places like the downtube junction and chainstays, where the rust will form fastest. So far I have not had any water collection issues since the drain was created.
Silica Gel, while being effective could be just a little more trouble than Id say you need to go to. Once a drain is formed(if it lacks one) and the tubing is treated, all that may be required is to squirt WD in it and put it in a sunny and/or hot area for a while.

 

[boudreaux]

How often do you redo the treatment? 6 months? Once a year?

The LBS suggested throwing a packet of silica gel down in there, you know those little white Do Not Eat packets in food packages. And also to dump out the water and let it air out after wet rides.

Once is enough if you use the right stuff. The silica gel idea is BS. A BB shell drain hole is a good idea.

 

[dabac]

The LBS suggested throwing a packet of silica gel down in there,

The moisture capturing capacity of consumer packages of desiccant is so low that for that to do any good you'd have to replace it very, very frequently. We're talking days at the most before it gets saturated.