Help with adjusting front derailleur (triple)

[Bob in CT]

I just purchased a replacement clamp on Shimano Ultegra front derailleur
(triple). I have adjusted the height of the derailleur to as close to the
teeth of the outside chainring as possible. I have adjusted the high and
low limit screws as per the instructions. I have set the
location/rotation of the derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the
outside chainring.

My problem is that even with the cable tight, I cannot get the front
derailleur to shift properly into the outside chainring. I can get it to
shift into the outside chainring, but when I put the chain on the rear
cassette into the smallest cog, there's rubbing on the outside of the
derailleur. The only way I've been able to fix this is by using a Park
4th Hand Brake Tool to tighten the cable while I push the derailleur into
a non-rubbing position while the chain is on the outside chainring (in the
front) and the smallest cog (in the back). This appears to work -- I can
shift into all three chainrings and rear cassette combinations with only
minor chain rub.

Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this?
It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the
cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble
and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.

--
Bob

 

[[email protected]]

Bob in CT wrote:

>
> Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this?
> It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the
> cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble
> and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
>
> --
> Bob

Are you saying that you cannot get enough cable tension by using the
barrel adjuster on the downtube cable stop?

Leland

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Bob in CT wrote:
> I just purchased a replacement clamp on Shimano Ultegra front derailleur
> (triple). I have adjusted the height of the derailleur to as close to the
> teeth of the outside chainring as possible. I have adjusted the high and
> low limit screws as per the instructions. I have set the
> location/rotation of the derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the
> outside chainring.
>
> My problem is that even with the cable tight, I cannot get the front
> derailleur to shift properly into the outside chainring. I can get it to
> shift into the outside chainring, but when I put the chain on the rear
> cassette into the smallest cog, there's rubbing on the outside of the
> derailleur. The only way I've been able to fix this is by using a Park
> 4th Hand Brake Tool to tighten the cable while I push the derailleur into
> a non-rubbing position while the chain is on the outside chainring (in the
> front) and the smallest cog (in the back). This appears to work -- I can
> shift into all three chainrings and rear cassette combinations with only
> minor chain rub.
>
> Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this?
> It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace the
> cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same trouble
> and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
>
> --
> Bob

When in biggest cog and small ring, the chain should be very, very
close to the inner cage plate of the FD...if not, then the FD won't
travel far enough to not have chain rub when in big ring and smallest
cog. shimano FD depend absolutely on starting position...If that is not
right, it won't work well.

 

[Bob in CT]

On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:23:27 -0400, <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Bob in CT wrote:
>
>>
>> Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this?
>> It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace
>> the
>> cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same
>> trouble
>> and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>
> Are you saying that you cannot get enough cable tension by using the
> barrel adjuster on the downtube cable stop?
>
> Leland
>

Yes, although I can try adjusting the barrel adjuster again tonight.

--
Bob in CT

 

[Bob in CT]

On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 09:13:45 -0400, Qui si parla Campagnolo
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Bob in CT wrote:
>> I just purchased a replacement clamp on Shimano Ultegra front derailleur
>> (triple). I have adjusted the height of the derailleur to as close to
>> the
>> teeth of the outside chainring as possible. I have adjusted the high
>> and
>> low limit screws as per the instructions. I have set the
>> location/rotation of the derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the
>> outside chainring.
>>
>> My problem is that even with the cable tight, I cannot get the front
>> derailleur to shift properly into the outside chainring. I can get it
>> to
>> shift into the outside chainring, but when I put the chain on the rear
>> cassette into the smallest cog, there's rubbing on the outside of the
>> derailleur. The only way I've been able to fix this is by using a Park
>> 4th Hand Brake Tool to tighten the cable while I push the derailleur
>> into
>> a non-rubbing position while the chain is on the outside chainring (in
>> the
>> front) and the smallest cog (in the back). This appears to work -- I
>> can
>> shift into all three chainrings and rear cassette combinations with only
>> minor chain rub.
>>
>> Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this?
>> It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace
>> the
>> cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same
>> trouble
>> and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
>>
>> --
>> Bob
>
> When in biggest cog and small ring, the chain should be very, very
> close to the inner cage plate of the FD...if not, then the FD won't
> travel far enough to not have chain rub when in big ring and smallest
> cog. shimano FD depend absolutely on starting position...If that is not
> right, it won't work well.
>

Thanks. I believe the chain is very close to the inner cage plate when in
the biggest cog and smallest ring, but I'll check again tonight.

--
Bob in CT

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

Bob in CT wrote:
> On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 18:23:27 -0400, <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Bob in CT wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> Should I just use this technique, or is there an easier way to do this?
> >> It seems that I should not have this trouble, but every time I replace
> >> the
> >> cables/housings for the front derailleur, I seem to have the same
> >> trouble
> >> and wind up using the same jury-rigging technique.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Bob
> >
> > Are you saying that you cannot get enough cable tension by using the
> > barrel adjuster on the downtube cable stop?
> >
> > Leland
> >
>
> Yes, although I can try adjusting the barrel adjuster again tonight.
>
> --
> Bob in CT

Remember tightening the cable with the BA moves the FD and changes the
start position. It will help to make for clearance in big ring, small
cog but can also result in chain rub in small ring, biggest cog. The
'book' from shimano says the clearance should 0.0-0.5mm-that's is
really touching, chain to cage clearance in small ring and big cog.

 

[John Heffner]

Are you sure the cable is attached correctly?
http://www.hostelshoppe.com/tech_frontderail.php

-John