Help with Fixed Gear/Single Speed Project



T

The Eye

Guest
I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.

I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
gear or a single speed ride.

I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was very
badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.

I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old cassette.
Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools needed
for this project.

Another challenge is the crank does not allow me to remove the larger
sprocket from the crank, it is a one piece unit and has 59 teeth. From what
I have read this is too big for fixed gearing?

1) Would I be able to find a single speed gear to work with the 59 tooth
front Sprocket?

2) If I go fixed gear, any suggestions on the crank and the rear
wheel/sprocket choices.

Thanks,

Anthony White
 
The Eye wrote:

> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
>
> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
> gear or a single speed ride.
>
> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was very
> badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.
>
> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old cassette.
> Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools needed
> for this project.


You need a Shimano lockring tool (but the Shimano freewheel removers
work in a pinch) and a chain whip. For a one-off job try holding the
cassette in place using the bike's chain with a suitable rod stuck
through the links (like a small screwdriver) while you undo the
lockring. It's worked for me. Or take the wheel to a bike shop.

You're going to have major chainline problems with a 122mm bottom
bracket. What you should do is find a BB length that puts the big 59T
(really? that's massive) chainring as-near-as-dammit 42mm from the
bike's centreline, assuming the frame has a 120mm spacing at the rear.
Then you'll need a 22T sprocket to get a nice gear of around 70".
E.A.I. are extremely nice sprockets - Sheldon sells them - but there are
cheaper ones around. The 59/22 combination will be bigger than most
people's 42/16 or 48/18 but will be very durable and look rather cool.

I would strongly recommend having a rear wheel built using a proper
track hub. These need not be expensive. A proper track wheel is
dishless and can take a lockring to hold the sprocket in place.
 
The Eye wrote:

> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
>
> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
> gear or a single speed ride.
>
> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was very
> badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.
>
> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old cassette.
> Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools needed
> for this project.


I'd be very surprised if that bike uses a cassette-type hub.

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/free-l7
>
> Another challenge is the crank does not allow me to remove the larger
> sprocket from the crank, it is a one piece unit and has 59 teeth. From what
> I have read this is too big for fixed gearing?


Count the teeth again. Much more likely to be a 52.

> 1) Would I be able to find a single speed gear to work with the 59 tooth
> front Sprocket?


For cheap fixed-gear conversions, you want to use the inner chainring,
for two reasons:

A: It will be hard to get the chainline right using the outer chainring.

2. The big fixed sprockets or freewheels you would need are more
expensive than smaller ones, and singlespeed freewheels in appropriate
sizes are

> 2) If I go fixed gear, any suggestions on the crank and the rear
> wheel/sprocket choices.


For rolling terrain, fixed gear, I generally recommend something around
a 5.8 gain ratio*. If you live in the flatlands, maybe about a 6.2

For a freewheeling setup, somewhere around 5, but fixed is a lot more fun.

To calculate gain ratio options for the actual chainring sizes you have,
see my online gear calculator:

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears

Sheldon "Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained" Brown
+---------------------------------------------+
| Do not needlessly endanger your lives |
| until I give you the signal. |
| --Dwight D. Eisenhower |
+---------------------------------------------+
*Gain ratio is a new system for measuring bicycle gearing.
It is explained in detail on my Web site at:
http://sheldonbrown.com/gain

Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
The Eye wrote:

> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
>
> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
> gear or a single speed ride.
>
> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was very
> badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.
>
> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old cassette.
> Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools needed
> for this project.


I'd be very surprised if that bike uses a cassette-type hub.

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7
>
> Another challenge is the crank does not allow me to remove the larger
> sprocket from the crank, it is a one piece unit and has 59 teeth. From what
> I have read this is too big for fixed gearing?


Count the teeth again. Much more likely to be a 52.

> 1) Would I be able to find a single speed gear to work with the 59 tooth
> front Sprocket?


For cheap fixed-gear conversions, you want to use the inner chainring,
for two reasons:

A: It will be hard to get the chainline right using the outer chainring.

2. The big fixed sprockets or freewheels you would need are more
expensive than smaller ones, and singlespeed freewheels in appropriate
sizes are

> 2) If I go fixed gear, any suggestions on the crank and the rear
> wheel/sprocket choices.


For rolling terrain, fixed gear, I generally recommend something around
a 5.8 gain ratio*. If you live in the flatlands, maybe about a 6.2

For a freewheeling setup, somewhere around 5, but fixed is a lot more fun.

To calculate gain ratio options for the actual chainring sizes you have,
see my online gear calculator:

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears

Sheldon "Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained" Brown
+---------------------------------------------+
| Do not needlessly endanger your lives |
| until I give you the signal. |
| --Dwight D. Eisenhower |
+---------------------------------------------+
*Gain ratio is a new system for measuring bicycle gearing.
It is explained in detail on my Web site at:
http://sheldonbrown.com/gain

Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
"The Eye" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
>
> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
> gear or a single speed ride.
>
> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was very
> badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.
>
> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old cassette.
> Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools needed
> for this project.
>


This is not a cassette- it's a freewheel. If you're planning on
maintaining the bike as a single-speed or fixed gear, just take the
wheel to a bike shop. Most will remove the freewheel for a minimal
charge. (It should be a Shimano splined 14-28 tooth 5-speed- very
common.)

> Another challenge is the crank does not allow me to remove the larger
> sprocket from the crank, it is a one piece unit and has 59 teeth. From what
> I have read this is too big for fixed gearing?
>


That's barely believeable. The Traveler III bikes came with 52-39
tooth Sugino or Silstar cranks. A 59 tooth chainring would be a custom
job- and I can't recall many chainrings for *any* crank coming with 59
teeth- 58 or 60 would be much more believeable.

Beyond that, Zog's ideas on gearing and bottom brackets apply.

Beyond *that*, the Traveler III is an excellent basis for a
single/fixed conversion.

Jeff
 
Jeff:

Thanks for your reply.

I am learning as I go. and am wondering what is the difference between a
free wheel and a cassette?

My thought is that a free wheel allows coasting and a cassette is the group
of sprockets?

You are right about the crank. The larger gear is 52 and the smaller is 39

Thanks

Anthony White


"Jeff Wills" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "The Eye" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
>> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
>>
>> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
>> gear or a single speed ride.
>>
>> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was
>> very
>> badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.
>>
>> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old
>> cassette.
>> Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools
>> needed
>> for this project.
>>

>
> This is not a cassette- it's a freewheel. If you're planning on
> maintaining the bike as a single-speed or fixed gear, just take the
> wheel to a bike shop. Most will remove the freewheel for a minimal
> charge. (It should be a Shimano splined 14-28 tooth 5-speed- very
> common.)
>
>> Another challenge is the crank does not allow me to remove the larger
>> sprocket from the crank, it is a one piece unit and has 59 teeth. From
>> what
>> I have read this is too big for fixed gearing?
>>

>
> That's barely believeable. The Traveler III bikes came with 52-39
> tooth Sugino or Silstar cranks. A 59 tooth chainring would be a custom
> job- and I can't recall many chainrings for *any* crank coming with 59
> teeth- 58 or 60 would be much more believeable.
>
> Beyond that, Zog's ideas on gearing and bottom brackets apply.
>
> Beyond *that*, the Traveler III is an excellent basis for a
> single/fixed conversion.
>
> Jeff
 
What is the difference between a cassette and a freewheel?

Thanks

Anthony White

"Sheldon Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The Eye wrote:
>
>> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
>>
>> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
>> gear or a single speed ride.
>>
>> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was
>> very badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.
>>
>> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old
>> cassette. Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the
>> tools needed for this project.

>
> I'd be very surprised if that bike uses a cassette-type hub.
>
> See: http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7
>>
>> Another challenge is the crank does not allow me to remove the larger
>> sprocket from the crank, it is a one piece unit and has 59 teeth. From
>> what I have read this is too big for fixed gearing?

>
> Count the teeth again. Much more likely to be a 52.
>
>> 1) Would I be able to find a single speed gear to work with the 59 tooth
>> front Sprocket?

>
> For cheap fixed-gear conversions, you want to use the inner chainring, for
> two reasons:
>
> A: It will be hard to get the chainline right using the outer chainring.
>
> 2. The big fixed sprockets or freewheels you would need are more expensive
> than smaller ones, and singlespeed freewheels in appropriate sizes are
>
>> 2) If I go fixed gear, any suggestions on the crank and the rear
>> wheel/sprocket choices.

>
> For rolling terrain, fixed gear, I generally recommend something around a
> 5.8 gain ratio*. If you live in the flatlands, maybe about a 6.2
>
> For a freewheeling setup, somewhere around 5, but fixed is a lot more fun.
>
> To calculate gain ratio options for the actual chainring sizes you have,
> see my online gear calculator:
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/gears
>
> Sheldon "Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained" Brown
> +---------------------------------------------+
> | Do not needlessly endanger your lives |
> | until I give you the signal. |
> | --Dwight D. Eisenhower |
> +---------------------------------------------+
> *Gain ratio is a new system for measuring bicycle gearing.
> It is explained in detail on my Web site at:
> http://sheldonbrown.com/gain
>
> Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
> Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
> http://harriscyclery.com
> Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
> http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
>
 
Zog The Undeniable <[email protected]> wrote:
: The Eye wrote:

:> I have a 1978 Schwinn Traveler III.
:>
:> I am begging my first bike project and I want to convert this to a fixed
:> gear or a single speed ride.
:>
:> I have started by disassembling the bike and installing new BB that was very
:> badly needed. That went well using a Shimano BB-UN53 122 cm.

If you still have the old BB you may be able to use it's lockring on your
rear hub for converting it for fixed gear use. The threading on some BBs
is the same as the freewheel threading.

:> I am stopped now for the lack of the proper tool to remove the old cassette.
:> Part of my plan is to begin building my tool box by buying the tools needed
:> for this project.

: You need a Shimano lockring tool (but the Shimano freewheel removers
: work in a pinch) and a chain whip. For a one-off job try holding the
: cassette in place using the bike's chain with a suitable rod stuck
: through the links (like a small screwdriver) while you undo the
: lockring. It's worked for me. Or take the wheel to a bike shop.

: You're going to have major chainline problems with a 122mm bottom
: bracket. What you should do is find a BB length that puts the big 59T
: (really? that's massive) chainring as-near-as-dammit 42mm from the
: bike's centreline, assuming the frame has a 120mm spacing at the rear.

When I did this I had to take a hammer to the chainstay and flatten it a bit
to get some clearance for the chainring. Not sure if that's a good idea,
but it's held up so far and the chainline's about perfect.

- mark
 
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 18:14:10 -0400, "The Eye"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Jeff:
>
>Thanks for your reply.
>
>I am learning as I go. and am wondering what is the difference between a
>free wheel and a cassette?
>
>My thought is that a free wheel allows coasting and a cassette is the group
>of sprockets?


Freewheel: A group of sprockets on a threaded hub with an enclosed
ratchet pawl mechanism, generally only supplied as a complete
assembly.

Cassette: A group of sprockets which slides on to the splined
freehub, and is supplied separately from the hub which contains the
ratcheting mechanism.

Anything with 5 sprockets is almost always going to be a freewheel.
At 6 sprockets, it's still most likely a freewheel. At 7, it could go
either way, but at 8, it's more likely to be a cassette.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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