Help with getting steel fork threaded and aligned in Bay Area?



A

Al Russo

Guest
Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
(Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork? The
forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one of
the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very slightly.
Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered (currently
threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the tools to do
the threading as well.

Thanks so much in advance for any recommendations anyone has!! I really
appreciate it.
 
Al Russo wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
> (Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork?



I have heard good things, albeit all second hand, about the frame work
at Shaw's in Santa Clara.

www.shawscycles.com (I think that's right, if not, they'll be in the
phone book)



> The
> forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one of
> the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very slightly.
> Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered (currently
> threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the tools to do
> the threading as well.
>
> Thanks so much in advance for any recommendations anyone has!! I really
> appreciate it.
 
In article <[email protected]>,
"Ozark Bicycle" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Al Russo wrote:
> > Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
> > (Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork?

>
>
> I have heard good things, albeit all second hand, about the frame work
> at Shaw's in Santa Clara.
>
> www.shawscycles.com (I think that's right, if not, they'll be in the
> phone book)


> > The
> > forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one of
> > the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very slightly.


It must be said that re-setting a steel fork is about the easiest frame
repair possible. Any shop competent enough to own a dropout alignment
tool (I have a Park) can probably handle a resettable fork fairly
quickly.

If the dropouts are actually different heights, it could get tricky: the
easiest solution is probably filing the lower of the two dropouts. I
don't think most forks would take well to trying to resquare the
relationship between the legs and the crown.

> > Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered (currently
> > threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the tools to do
> > the threading as well.


Why? There may be good reasons to change to a threaded steerer, but
threadless connections are generally stronger. Unless you are looking
for a dramatic bar-height increase or want the threaded look, it's
probably not a good idea.

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
 
Try posting to the local newsgroup ba.bicycles


Al Russo wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
> (Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork? The
> forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one of
> the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very slightly.
> Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered (currently
> threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the tools to do
> the threading as well.
>
> Thanks so much in advance for any recommendations anyone has!! I really
> appreciate it.
>
>
 
In article
<[email protected]>,
"Al Russo" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
> (Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork? The
> forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one of
> the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very slightly.
> Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered (currently
> threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the tools to do
> the threading as well.
>
> Thanks so much in advance for any recommendations anyone has!! I really
> appreciate it.


Ed Litton in Richmond. 510-237-1132.
Specializes in fitting, building, and repairing.
Collection of bicycles, new and old, his and others.

--
Michael Press
 
Al Russo wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
> (Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork? The
> forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks
> like one of the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and
> pulls very slightly. Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a
> threaded steered (currently threadless), and it would be great if the
> same person had the tools to do the threading as well.
>
> Thanks so much in advance for any recommendations anyone has!! I
> really appreciate it.


A threadless steerer of any material should never be threaded... there's not
enough material to do so safely. The steerer should be replaced.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
Quoted text:
Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
(Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork? The
forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one
of
the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very
slightly.
Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered
(currently
threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the tools to
do
the threading as well.

If the wheel is canted filing the DO will do the job-it's easy with the
right filke. I use a chain saw sharpening file that's just the right
diameter. As for threading your threadless steerer, it really won't
work. New fork or new steerer.
Phil Brown
 
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:

>
> A threadless steerer of any material should never be threaded... there's not
> enough material to do so safely. The steerer should be replaced.
>
> --
> Phil, Squid-in-Training


That's not always true. The WoundUp fork w/ 1" threadless steel
steerer uses the exact same steerer tube as their threaded model, they
just don't thread it.

Can't speak for other brands, but as long as you're talking about steel
steerer tubes, its hard to imagine they used a different, thinner tube
for their threadless models. Most people looking for forks w/ steel
steerers aren't concerned about the weight.
 
Scott wrote:
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>
>>
>> A threadless steerer of any material should never be threaded...
>> there's not enough material to do so safely. The steerer should be
>> replaced.
>>
>> --
>> Phil, Squid-in-Training

>
> That's not always true. The WoundUp fork w/ 1" threadless steel
> steerer uses the exact same steerer tube as their threaded model, they
> just don't thread it.
>
> Can't speak for other brands, but as long as you're talking about
> steel steerer tubes, its hard to imagine they used a different,
> thinner tube for their threadless models. Most people looking for
> forks w/ steel steerers aren't concerned about the weight.


I was going to follow up my post with "Having said that, I'd thread a steel
threadless steerer, but YMMV." I was attempting to dodge the ensuing
professional responsibility posts that would invariably follow.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
> Does anyone have a recommendation for someone located in the Bay Area
> (Califfornia) who would be really expert at aligning a steel fork? The
> forks haven't been crashed - just a bit off-centered (it looks like one of
> the dropouts may be 1 - 2 mm higher than the other) and pulls very
> slightly. Also, I'm thinking of changing the setup to a threaded steered
> (currently threadless), and it would be great if the same person had the
> tools to do the threading as well.
>
> Thanks so much in advance for any recommendations anyone has!! I really
> appreciate it.


Dumb question time. If the fork is both off-center *and* has dropouts of
differing heights, is this really a product you want to put more work into?
New steel replacement forks aren't that expensive, and I've yet to see
common generic steel forks (which we buy from QBP as needed) arrive looking
as bad as what you describe.

If this bike has never been crashed, and the dropout offset can be verified,
you might consider checking to see if it's covered under warranty as a
manufacturing defect.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com