[email protected] wrote:
> I understand the idea behind a chain wax and am hoping
> that someone has formulated a home recipe.
Here's my method:
PARAFFIN LUBRICATION OF A BIKE CHAIN BY THE TORCH METHOD
ADVANTAGES: All the advantages of waxing by the usual double boiler
method (clean chain, clean bike, very long lasting chain and
sprockets); Considerable time savings over both liquid lubricants and
hot-dip wax methods; No removal of the chain from the bike, so fewer
worries about broken chains.
POSSIBLE DISADVANTAGES: I don't ride enough in very muddy/gritty
off-road situations to evaluate this method. It may work, it may not.
Some have said waxed chains don't handle rain well. I haven't found
this to be the case _since I began adding 5% motor oil_. But I ride
mostly in dry weather. Your mileage may vary.
This method is not convenient for a long tour.
EQUIPMENT: Small propane torch or equivalent. (Flexible torch head or
hose extension is handy but not necessary.) Thin sheet metal about 12"
square. Wax with about 5% motor oil, in solid form, as described
below. Bike repair stand is very helpful but not absolutely necessary.
Old newspaper to protect the floor. Paper towels.
PREPARATION OF EQUIPMENT:
Fold or bend one end of the sheet metal so it curls all along its
length, forming a long hook. Hook this over your chainstay. It should
hang between the lower strand of chain and the tire, protecting the
tire and chainstay from heat.
If you don't already have a pot of wax with oil blended, melt some
grocery store canning paraffin, blend in about 5% oil, and let it
freeze. Chip out a piece a couple inches square, to use as a "crayon".
(When melting the paraffin, many people say it's not safe to do it any
way but in a double boiler, due to risk of fire. I've never used a
double boiler. I've always used either a gas stove or a portable
Coleman camping stove. I've had no problems, but you make your own
decisions.)
Hang the bike if possible. Hang the sheet metal from the chainstay.
Spread the newspaper on the floor to catch any drips and crumbs, and
light the torch on a low flame (perhaps 1 inch long).
PROCEDURE:
Run the torch along the bottom strand of chain, taking care where you
direct the flame. This should take only 5 seconds or so; you don't
need to get the chain very warm.
Immediately "crayon" the wax onto the warm chain. The warmth will
allow the wax particles to stick. At this point, they will not really
melt.
Now use the torch a bit more slowly, passing it along each link until
the wax visibly melts and flows into the chain's cavities. Remember
the objective is to get the wax between the side plates, into the
roller, etc.
Back pedal to expose the next 10" of chain and repeat the above.
Continue until the entire chain is done.
Now take a handful of paper towels and rub the excess wax off the
chain. Try to polish off the sideplates, including the inner
sideplates. Lubrication of any type is unnecessary here, and simply
collects dirt.
Gather up the newspapers, put your tools away, and ride.
Repeat when your chain first begins squeaking. For me, this is usually
at least 500 miles. Note, you'll reach that sooner than you think,
because you'll be out riding when you would have been removing,
soaking, drying, oiling, wiping, and re-installing your chain, not to
mention cleaning black gunk off your bike!
- Frank Krygowski
